engine bay painting

[turbojolt]

need help here got questions regarding different types of primer and other products

-wire wheel of any surface rust (what do i use to rough up the rest of the paint?)

-treat with anti rust treatment (unsure on what product to use?)

-prime bare metal (red oxide or standard, whats that all about?)

-seam sill and filler engine bay & sand (to make smooth!)

-prime engine bay (normal Grey primer i think?)

-paint the engine bay with colour (what paint do i use here 2pak or Ive heared of a paint that acts as a lacquer as well but dont know what it is :tard:)

thanks for any help guys :thumb:

EDIT... forgot to ask where should i be looking at to get the best prices on all the products needed aswell

[paul james]

I've recently discovered poly carbide disks/wheels, they make a good accomplice to wire wheels, removing rust and paint really quickly without the annoyance of metal fibres flying everywhere.

The best anti-rust treatment is to get rid of the rust, using angle grinder, wire wheels, carbide wheels etc, just keeping attacking untill its gone, or as much as possible. In my experience the anti-rust gels and other gunks you can put on a rusty metal surface don't work very well at all.

Different grits of sand paper is best to prep paint, using finer grit prevents you having imperfections from sanding.

I use Acid Etch Primer mostly now on bare metal, it bonds with the surface being acidic, and is grey so you can chuck your colour paint straight on it if wanted.

[turbojolt]

is there any additional benefit to red oxide primer then as I'm really keen on this car being around for a long time and never want to deal with rust again lol

[Iain]

What car?!

Didn't think you were supposed to paint directly over etch primer btw.

[turbojolt]

What car?!

Didn't think you were supposed to paint directly over etch primer btw.

the car i own and will have back once i move to the new place, keep up ian (with 2 i's) xxx

whats wrong with painting on etch primer then? will the top coat not hold?

[mowgli]

red oxide is crap.

it was good in 1963 before anyone invented something better

clean rust off as much as poss. maybe use genolite or similar on hard to get bits (or buy a hobby shot blaster & compressor)

etch prime.

then seal seal & proper primer..

now.. interesting fact that is routinely overlooked by loads of people.. the concept of a primer paint is to create a keying layer for the proper top coat to stick to, and these primer paints, unless you use a really expensive zinc primer as recommended by Practical Classics mag or similar, are porous, so the next layer will bond to them..

due to being porous, the primed panel needs to be kept away from moisture untill the top coats are finished & lacquered.

[turbojolt]

zinc primer is what pipe fitters use isnt it?

[paul james]

I've not had an issue with painting directly on etch primer, not that I've done it with panels or main bodywork, just stuff like my rear beam.




now.. interesting fact that is routinely overlooked by loads of people.. the concept of a primer paint is to create a keying layer for the proper top coat to stick to, and these primer paints, unless you use a really expensive zinc primer as recommended by Practical Classics mag or similar, are porous, so the next layer will bond to them..

due to being porous, the primed panel needs to be kept away from moisture untill the top coats are finished & lacquered.

Its crazy how often I see people driving around cars with primer on them and no paint on top. Some people seem to just give up on a repair after priming it, with the inevitible rusting results.

[mowgli]

ordinary zinc primer is also crap... please can someone explain what the point of having a primer paint that you can weld thru is, as porous primer is still porous... buy a copy of PC mag & check out the clever primers in there...

if you are busy working on restoring a motor, get it primered, then get a covering of some sort of top coat (neutral-ish or final choice colour) and it will be sealed a lot better. .then you need to get it scotchbrited to key some final coats on when you are ready to finish it.

[turbojolt]

do they sell pc in asda lol i will get her to go on her lunch break tomorow lol

[hotrod]

do they sell pc in asda lol i will get her to go on her lunch break tomorow lol lol lol

A womans work is never done! lol

[mowgli]

tj, i dunno... t'morrisons & tesco do though

[turbojolt]

lol lol

A womans work is never done! lol

my foot is broken in a million diffrent places, i sure as funk aint going lol

[mowgli]

my foot is broken in a million diffrent places, i sure as funk aint going lol

so how are you going to clean up an engine bay?? like tom cruise in mission implausible?? hanging off the ceiling on 2 wires??

do you have the nova back then??

[turbojolt]

no mate, but I'm moving to a house down the road with a big garage so will be getting it back and doing the work myself (hopefully with some help) in there once my foot is healed, just trying to find out as much as possible right now before jumping in head first

[mowgli]

you should go & get the car the day before you get the cast removed... 10kg of plaster of paris at high speed up his scrotum will soon help him see the error of his ways, and by the time they drop down again & he calls the old bill, you won't have a cast on & will be able to deny all knowledge of the incident

[hotrod]

you should go & get the car the day before you get the cast removed... 10kg of plaster of paris at high speed up his scrotum will soon help him see the error of his ways, and by the time they drop down again & he calls the old bill, you won't have a cast on & will be able to deny all knowledge of the incident

lol lol

[turbojolt]

you should go & get the car the day before you get the cast removed... 10kg of plaster of paris at high speed up his scrotum will soon help him see the error of his ways, and by the time they drop down again & he calls the old bill, you won't have a cast on & will be able to deny all knowledge of the incident

it always amazes me how brilliant your ideas are mate lol, no need for violence just want my car back ;)

[mowgli]

it always amazes me how brilliant your ideas are mate lol, no need for violence just want my car back ;)

well, the calm reasoning & polite phone calls have worked wonders so far...... i'm not particularly vindictive, but i'd have reversed a trailer of wet cow muck up his drive & tipped it long ago if it was my car languishing there...

[turbojolt]

well, the calm reasoning & polite phone calls have worked wonders so far...... i'm not particularly vindictive, but i'd have reversed a trailer of wet cow muck up his drive & tipped it long ago if it was my car languishing there...

**** happens Ive mugged my self of by not sorting it sooner like a mug, now i have a place for the car i will get it back and hopefully make it in to a epic nova

[brainsnova]

I don't think I've even seen the car but it will be good to see it come together

[Benn]

Re pair either by cutting out or cleaning right back any rust, fill what you need to and sand to smooth.

Zinc acid etch primer is very good. It burns the surface so the addeison is very good. This means it will hold on to everywhere and is the first line against rust.

Then you wanna seam seal every seam. Do it nice and neatly, use a brush painting is a S shape as it will look factory(unless you don't want that) Then use a high build primer. This will fill any sanding marks and such left over.
Rub that down with 800wet and dry, but using as little water as poss because as said it will such water up. Leave to dry as long as you can.

Then you can paint and lacquer.

[phunkynova]

my foot is broken in a million diffrent places, i sure as funk aint going lol

Now TJ I've told you a million times not to exaggerate :d