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gteben
04-06-12, 10:51 PM
Hello people i have a question . I have the 1600 efi lump.......
I manged to get 113.6mph out of her . Well i want to stop her being a snail and put some fire her pants again.....

I dont to put a different engine . Im happy to put money in to this engine

Can people give me some ideas of parts an there names and where i can get them from
Ideally id like it to be a little rocket again .....
When i want to 113 mph i had loads of revs left to play .. but she wouldnt go much more
Its like i had kangroo juice in the car it was i think misfiring.....
Does anyone port an flow heads on here
With it being injection. Could you RIP the injection system out and replace it with higher bouser carbs as i remember bearing about it on a forum

mowgli
04-06-12, 10:55 PM
http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?186911-Increasing-BHP

its been done on here a few times...


either enjoy the 1600 for what it is, or get your wallet out

gteben
04-06-12, 11:01 PM
I dont mind getting my wallet out . My grandad said anythink is possiable ....

peester
05-06-12, 06:47 PM
Just give the engine a rebuild. You could be down on standard power (!00bhp) as its a 20+ yr old engine, many miles on clock etc.
That might get it a little rocket again.
Google the eurosport competition build manual, take a look.

Stuart
05-06-12, 07:12 PM
IMHO

Proper porting headwork
Kent ast2
Mappable mangement ( bet micro squirt, dta exp48 or s40, motec etc)
And a 4 branch manifold.

Happy days.

siegsi8v
13-06-12, 11:06 PM
Im having the same problem bud,,,my engine wants to go and revs up fine,, but it feels like its being held back? revs dont match the speed im traveling when i toe it. im thinking missfire?? could it be down to the engine timing being out?

i was quoted £1200. for fast road cam piper/pulleys/fuel reg/head work/ 120bhp plus...fitted. aldon automotive stourbridge.

brucer
13-06-12, 11:18 PM
check ignition timing, setting that right makes a hell of a lot of differance.

mowgli
14-06-12, 05:15 AM
check ignition timing, setting that right makes a hell of a lot of differance.
definitely does. as it also sets the injection timing

Jon_nova1
14-06-12, 10:12 AM
your doing something wrong and must be down on power to only get 113 out of 100BHP

General Baxter
14-06-12, 11:00 AM
the problem lol
right ill be good :thumb:
http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSfky7_wvrB2GxP5VfnNYc9mw_YvnHTd GWG3BG-XXH8mwHbkNP0

Graeme
14-06-12, 11:04 AM
Agree with Jon, even on a cr box you'd expect more especially on Nova clocks lol

brucer
14-06-12, 09:48 PM
definitely does. as it also sets the injection timing


i didnt realise, i have got mine set slightly more advanced than what it reads on the bottom pulley marks. feels easier to rev.

Steve
15-06-12, 02:14 AM
Loads of revs left? You sure its got the right box on it? My old gte used to hit 110mph in 5th at about 6k rpm, wouldnt fancy driving for long periods at higher revs tbh...

C612DNM
16-06-12, 12:34 AM
imho

proper porting headwork blydenstein b+ if you can find one or a peter sowray one perhaps
kent ast2 kent nv063 for hydraulic, or ast9 with solids plus springs/etc..
mappable mangement ( bet micro squirt, dta exp48 or s40, motec etc) dta yes yes
and a 4 branch manifold - one that works - not all of them do - ones like the Ashley with unequal primaries that collect side-by-side are typically 8hp down on a factory cast iron manifold gasket matched - the BTB one works, that's 4hp better than the cast iron opened out..

Happy days.

efa

Add - Arrow steel rods, lightened flywheel, Gp.A cover, paddle plate.
DCOE manifold with 45mm lumenition or similar throttle bodies, or 45mm Jenvys. Build large airbox/plenum to let plenty of filtered clean air in.
Source original equipment alloy radiator - they cool better than reman copper ones.

Been there, done that.
If the OP wants one building, a deposit of 6K would be a start.

Edd
16-06-12, 12:42 AM
Slap a turbo on it

Stuart
16-06-12, 07:21 AM
efa

Add - Arrow steel rods, lightened flywheel, Gp.A cover, paddle plate.
DCOE manifold with 45mm lumenition or similar throttle bodies, or 45mm Jenvys. Build large airbox/plenum to let plenty of filtered clean air in.
Source original equipment alloy radiator - they cool better than reman copper ones.

Been there, done that.
If the OP wants one building, a deposit of 6K would be a start.

Ast2 is a proven cam with a lovely spread of torque, I've driven peakier cammed engines and they just aren't as enjoyable and therefore not as fast despite having the extra oomph

C612DNM
16-06-12, 09:55 AM
AST2 is an old cam for the 1300, the NV063 is a more modern (1992!!) design that gives a better spread and improved performance over the AST2.
If you want WIDE power, then the AST8 on solids in a 1600 is amazing! The trouble with solids is they are a pain in the backside for reliability in a road engine and need constant tinkering.

Bubba
16-06-12, 05:33 PM
...XE it lol

Stuart
16-06-12, 06:59 PM
Might be old but it works like a charm even in 2012..... but hey :p


The Otto cycle is pretty damn old, maybe you would like to try and give us a new one?