Eaton M45 charger on 1300

[Edd]

I want to do this :)

Few things on my mind tho

Anybody know of a small alternator that I can mount to the front of the block ?

Making plates for the out and inlet not prob, but what diameter pipe work?
Seen 57mm used on other conversions ?

Compression ratio need lowering same as turbo ?
Thinking of banging e16 head on to sort this

What cam ?

Adjustable fpr needed ?

Any ideas, suggestions, or links at this point would be awesome, just trying to get as much info together as I must do it :)

Think there was a thread on here with a link to a burgandy 5 door mk4 astra that had a m45 fitted cant find it's tho :( might be lee303 on mig, but his thread is 400 pages long on there lol

Edd

[Calamity Josh]

you want a kabota deisel mini digger alternator :)

[Edd]

^ cheers, been told nissan micra ones are very small as well

I found the astra lee303 converted, looks like the TB is before the charger, ??? Im confused now ? This right ?

[SimonTW]

Yes the TB is before the charger on my Mini.

[Edd]

Cheers Si

Is the re circulation valve built in to the TB on the mini ?

[SimonTW]

No the bypass valve is located on the underside of the inlet manifold intake "trumpet" It's a small vac operated butterfly valve. I have seen this mounted on the intake system just to vent to the open air on other conversions.

http://www.outmotoring.com/images/P/DET_Bypass1_md.jpg

[Plug]

A small denso alternator is what you'll want there tiny

Would have thought fueling would be the same as if you was going to turbo
And use a rising rate fpr?
Unless you go after market management

[Mazz]

Is a denso alt. from a Kubota engine.

Compared to an XE

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/mrmazz/Nova/DSC_0116Small.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/mrmazz/Nova/DSC_0120Small.jpg

[Edd]

Cheers Mazz

Joe, using megasquirt or DTA if I can get a mate to sell/lend me it

Is the bypass valve 100% needed ? Or will it run crap with out ?

[SimonTW]

On the Mini if that part is at fault the car does run badly. A few owners have changed and used other boost control methods so I would suggest using the Mini part or at least something else.

Great idea by the way. I have been thinking of ways of getting my Cooper S engine into the Nova whereas I should be thinking smaller. How to get it onto the C16XE. :)

[Stuart]

You 'can' drop the CR, but i bet you don't need to.... as the point in the engine revs/load where the most boost from the hEaton goes in is where the dynamic CR is very very low anyway.

[Edd]

So if I did lower the compression I could fit a +15% pulley then ?

Also thinking of using a X16xe TB now

[Plug]

Well if you manage to get an aftermarket ecu you'll only need an adjustable fpr and can have the fueling mapped properly on a rolling road,

I wouldn't have thought you would have to lower the CR as the 1300 are valve safe anyway Arn't they, and a high compression engine with boost will be a weapon!

Should be a fun car to drive and to build if you manage to pull it off!

I'll pop in one weekend when I'm driving that way

[Edd]

Yeah drop in mate

I think it will be epic if I can pull it off, baxter did do it but it was a MEGA bodge

Really I should of used a Rotrex but there far too expensive, plus got a new M45 for very good price

[Graeme]

Are you hoping to do it as subtle as the green one edd?

[Edd]

already cut a massive hole in the middle of the bonnet

[Stuart]

Depends what +15% means..... that just like crappy stage tuning, which means NOTHING when speccing parts.

Given the cheapness of the 1300 engine I'd really get the thing built and then see what is needed. 10:1 is NOT high compression for a boosted petrol engine anymore!
People only dropped the CR loads back in the day (and still to an extent) was because fuelling, ignition and boost control was terrible at best so dropping the CR made up for crappy everything else. With more modern control (even megasquirt/DTA) you can fine tune the fuelling and ign to make a normal compression boosted engine work right.

[Edd]

Cheers for the input Stu

My worry about the compression is that if I leave it standard, is the only way I will know if it needs lowering is when the pistons come through the block? lol

But will it be crap if I do lower it ?

Had a look and I reckon I can mount it where the alternator is

[mowgli]

as for the alternator, i'll try to find the PPC mag article on fitting a mini s/c, they took the mini water pump off the back of the charger body, as it is driven from the charger shaft that sticks right thru to the back, and fitted a small jap alternator to the mount where the pump was,

[Edd]

That sound interesting mate

Might not be the room tho, not sure

On the classic mini conversions they lower the compression so im thinking that I should ?

[mowgli]

classic minis aren't exactly the greatest engines to start off with... and running the gearbox in the sump is a good way to knacker things up.

the metro turbo used the same compression as the mg metro....

[C612DNM]

But the race version had lower comp, and used a boost retard module on the ignition to stop it detonating to bits. They were quite potent for an awful A series.

As for this 1300 shoopercharger jobby - think about how they work - you get lots of low to mid range urge.
Which means you get mahousive cylinder pressures at 2-4000 revs where volumetric efficiency isn't brilliant in a standard engine.
So do you need to drop the compression ratio to avoid detonation?? Depends how much boost you use, I reckon so.

Cam? Something for the weekend sir. A fast-road profile will be more than plenty for this application. They're tweaked for mid-range which is where your charger will be doing it's work. The cam profile will exaggerate the onset of boost, so you'll get a kick in the back!

Thinking about the location of the charger - have you considered mounting it in front of the block low down. It could mean playing with the rad to give yourself space.
Then you can leave the alternator where it is.

[Edd]

I have considered putting the charger at the front, but think there would belt issue round the engine mount, plus the heat from the exhaust with make the charger even hotter

[Stuart]

But the race version had lower comp, and used a boost retard module on the ignition to stop it detonating to bits. They were quite potent for an awful A series.

As for this 1300 shoopercharger jobby - think about how they work - you get lots of low to mid range urge.
Which means you get mahousive cylinder pressures at 2-4000 revs where volumetric efficiency isn't brilliant in a standard engine.
So do you need to drop the compression ratio to avoid detonation?? Depends how much boost you use, I reckon so.

Cam? Something for the weekend sir. A fast-road profile will be more than plenty for this application. They're tweaked for mid-range which is where your charger will be doing it's work. The cam profile will exaggerate the onset of boost, so you'll get a kick in the back!

Thinking about the location of the charger - have you considered mounting it in front of the block low down. It could mean playing with the rad to give yourself space.
Then you can leave the alternator where it is.


But alas all small block cams are setup for n/a use so the overlaps are high which means lots of boost will fcuk off down the exhaust before being used lol

[Edd]

as for the alternator, i'll try to find the PPC mag article on fitting a mini s/c, they took the mini water pump off the back of the charger body, as it is driven from the charger shaft that sticks right thru to the back, and fitted a small jap alternator to the mount where the pump was,

Don't suppose you have managed to find that magazine have you ? Do you know what alternator was used ?
If I could run a simular set up I will have it done in half the time as that's the only bit im having trouble working out

[mowgli]

here ya go

jan 2010 ppc mag...


http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q119/mowglinova/CCF22042012_00000.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q119/mowglinova/CCF22042012_000002.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q119/mowglinova/Untitled-1.jpg

[Edd]

That's great stuff thanks very much

Tbh one thing I havnt thought of is the pulley sizes and the rpm of the charger

[craig green]

Edd why are you thinking of this & not using that turbo setup you have in the garage? Dont tell me you have 'sold it'!

[Edd]

Because the turbo conversion requires

Turbo rebuild
Complete bottom end rebuild
That's some £££ already
Plus lots of small stuff, oil feeds, pipework, oil filter relocation kit mounted somewhere etc etc

Thinking this might be easier, if I find all the info out first, cheaper and more unique

And no I havnt sold it :) but I MIGHT if this can be done

[stt]

chip has a small alternator that he's not using