View Full Version : First head gasket.
Gaz1300SR
14-04-12, 07:48 PM
Update on page 7.
Nova_Tek
14-04-12, 07:50 PM
are you using the standard hydraulic lifters with those cams? If so, maybe clean them (helps quieten them up) or replace them.
Have you had the head checked to see if it needs a skim?
there isn't anything else to do from that end, unless you can afford to send the head off for porting work... which will make a load more power
Novasport
14-04-12, 08:07 PM
Decoke the head and valves if its a bit black in there, reseat the valves and replace the valve stem seals.
sorry, i forgot .. i always do that when i do a head gasket
Novasport
14-04-12, 08:13 PM
You need new followers with the new cam aswell
brainsnova
14-04-12, 08:14 PM
I polished the top of the pistons lol
Yeah you will need new followers, strip the lifters down an clean them out too get rid of any tapping noises
And if you can be arsed take the valves out clean them up and grind then back in
Nova_Tek
14-04-12, 08:18 PM
In short - there's still loadsa sh*t you can do lol
Novasport
14-04-12, 08:19 PM
Well if you want to go the whole hog, get the crank and pistons out, replace the rings, glaze bust the bores and replace all the bottom end bearings. ;)
Oh and get the head ported and bottom end lightened & balanced lol
brainsnova
14-04-12, 08:21 PM
Or just go xe/let
Nova_Tek
14-04-12, 08:21 PM
While you're there swap it for a XE lol
I kid
Nova_Tek
14-04-12, 08:21 PM
Or just go xe/let
Beat me by seconds
its a pity you took the head off, one of those camshaft changing tools is dead cheap on the bay
New thermostat, bead blast the valves, 3 angle seats. If the waterways look iffy, bead bast the whole head.
Novasport
14-04-12, 09:36 PM
Gary, I think you need to do a 1.3 tuning guide on here. All the possible mods and where to get them carried out.
Be nice to know where to get tuning parts from like bigger valves, uprated pistons etc
Gaz1300SR
14-04-12, 09:42 PM
Ok..... wish I hadn't asked! Haha. Thanks for all the advice. How much would a port and polish be? What's the benefits of having this? I wanted the stop the oil leaks as well so head off rather than leaving it on was the way to go.
I'll get new followers then. I have stem seals.
Thanks again
Novasport
14-04-12, 09:58 PM
Where was the oil leaks from? Rocker cover and sump gaskets are the most common
Autosprint in Birmingham are supposed to be very good for head work
Gaz1300SR
14-04-12, 10:18 PM
Rocker mainly I think but just want to be sure. Cam belt hasn't been done for 3 or 4 years so just wanted to do everything at once.
Anyone had a head ported in the northwest? What sort of money is it going to cost?
Nova_Tek
14-04-12, 11:34 PM
For the rocker, get some Loctite OE gasket silicone sealant. Squeeze some all around on the mating surface on the head then place the gasket on it, then do the same on the rocker cover and fit it back and tighten it up. It will never leak. Done it on the SR and the Cavalier. Dry as a bone!
Gary, I think you need to do a 1.3 tuning guide on here. All the possible mods and where to get them carried out.
Be nice to know where to get tuning parts from like bigger valves, uprated pistons etc
bigger valves.... use e16se ones....
heads....Ivor Searles
pistons... ??? but 12st ones are a hoot..
cams... ???
You can get waisted stem valves from here http://www.gsvalves.co.uk/index.html
I have a set of waisted stem inlet valves here that came off a 1300 engine I stripped, they are for sale for £20 iirc they are 2mm bigger than standard.
Gaz1300SR
15-04-12, 10:19 PM
Garyc, what would be the benefit of these?
They improve airflow through the head, you can see a std and REC valve side by side.
http://www.garyclapham.webspace.virginmedia.com/RECVALVES.JPG
Gaz1300SR
16-04-12, 08:16 AM
So more power? I'm not exactly clued up when it comes to tuning. Bolt on stuff I am fine with but internal stuff I am learning about now. Could I use these with the ast1 cam I am fitting and all other standard internals?
I got the head off last night, just struggling with the crankbolt, how do I lock the flywheel?
Should add up to more power, Valve seats will need cutting to match to match the valves. They are a direct swap for std valves.
Gaz1300SR
16-04-12, 03:50 PM
Think I'd be out of my league trying to do anymore than I already am. Cheers for the offer though mate.
Novasport
16-04-12, 06:23 PM
I might be interested, any exhaust valves aswell?
these waisted valves....
i assume they are simply ground down from original size valves?? do people get them re hardened, or are they just as ground?
They are made by REC so I presume made not ground from std valves. They are supplied ready to fit.
I only have inlets.
Gaz1300SR
03-05-12, 08:02 PM
I've just put the engine back together tonight, put oil and water in etc and went to start it. Oil pressure got up and it fired up and ran but isn't running right. Sounds like it is misfiring. I made sure the timing marks were lined up and that it all turned over freely and also made sure the ignition timing wasn't the problem. I know the cambelt is too tight but other than that everything seems to be right.
I have run out of time tonight now but can anyone shed some light on what the problem might be? I have checked the timing marks are right but could it be a notch out causing this?
Thanks
loosen the cambelt a bit before doing anything else.
think about this, if it was not running right in the 1st place, then it might have been adjusted to try to improve it, so now its been fixed, it won't run right until its been tuned up properly.
Gaz1300SR
03-05-12, 09:20 PM
It was running fine before I put the Kent cam in and changed the Campbell and head gasket etc.
Gaz1300SR
03-05-12, 10:38 PM
Cambelt, not campbell..... mobile phone fail!
I think you may be mixing me up with the other thread about doing first head gasket.
Gaz1300SR
04-05-12, 08:17 AM
Any advice? I'm going to try and get it sorted later. Where should I start? I don't want to damage anything.
Cambelt, not campbell..... mobile phone fail!
I think you may be mixing me up with the other thread about doing first head gasket.
sorry, i was going on the thread title & all the other posts...
you have changed the engine, doing a head gasket alone means things will need readjusting, but sticking in a kent cam means everything is going to be out of whack & need re timing & the mixture resetting
Gaz1300SR
06-05-12, 04:29 PM
Ok, I have made some progress today. I moved the cam timing on by one notch which seems to be better. When I set the timing I did it to the notch on the outer bottom pulley which I have since found out is not right. It should be 10 degrees after this.
I have it running much better and it revs up nice and smooth but now idles like it's misfiring. I have check the plugs and distributor cap and give everything a good clean. I have had a fiddle with the ignition timing to see if I could get it a little better, which is how I got it to idle, but can't get it any better now. I am stuck as to what to do.
My question is, could it still be the cam timing that is out?
it might be but we need pics to be able to tell.
after a cam swap, a car needs properly setting up, and probably re-jetting
Gaz1300SR
06-05-12, 05:06 PM
it might be but we need pics to be able to tell.
after a cam swap, a car needs properly setting up, and probably re-jetting
Should I be able to get it to idle smooth? I will get it set up properly but as it is not sure it will make it to a garage.
What do you need pics of?
both pulleys with the timing marks....
Gaz1300SR
06-05-12, 06:38 PM
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/GazLC81/SDC11429.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/GazLC81/SDC11431.jpg
This is after I moved the timing back from where it was. It now won't start and there is no spark?? The cam timing being out wouldn't stop the plugs firing would it?
the timing marks look fine in the pic.
as the dizzy is on the back end of the camshaft, then cam timing will affect the ign timing.
Gaz1300SR
06-05-12, 06:55 PM
To the point where the is no spark at all? Is there an easy way to check the coil?
well checking the low voltage side of the coil with a multi meter will help to make sure the circuit is ok, but more than likely, its the dizzy where the problem will be. any pics of that?
Gaz1300SR
06-05-12, 07:55 PM
These pics were taken with the engine in the same position as the ones with the timing marks, ie not turned over.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/GazLC81/SDC11432.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/GazLC81/SDC11433.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/GazLC81/SDC11434.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/GazLC81/SDC11435.jpg
Thanks for the help so far mowgli. It's appreciated.
i would say that your timing is massively advanced, undo the clamp & rotate it anti clockwise (looking from the left wing) a bit.
are you definitely not getting a spark at all?
as an extra note to that, to test for spark, get a mate to turn the key while you have a spare spark plug (or one removed) attached to a plug lead and earthed with the electrode against the engine, you'll see the spark.
Alternatively, make sure the mate you get hold of is a bit thick, and ask him to hold the plug while you crank it over and look for a spark. You'll see him dance.
Gaz1300SR
06-05-12, 09:32 PM
I got my missus to turn the key and there was definitely no spark. It ran earlier in the day. The only thing different since then is I moved the crank back a notch on the belt if you know what I mean.
The coil wouldnt just go like that surely.... I'm a bit stumped.
Cars generally like to make various parts go kaput only when you're looking for other problems, so it's always possible lol
You can test for spark at the coil in the same way btw, I just wouldn't advise holding it, it's a big spark lol
Gaz1300SR
06-05-12, 10:05 PM
I tried that too. Couldn't see a spark there either.... I will look again tomorrow, I'm wondering about an earth strap being the issue.
Gaz1300SR
07-05-12, 11:16 AM
I took the coil off this morning and gave all the contacts a good clean, same with the dizzy, put it back together and it fired up first time.
Although I altered the timing yesterday it seems to be running pretty much identically. I have put this video up but it is difficult to see just how lumpy the idle is from it. I tried retarding the timing a bit as mowgli had suggested but it just cuts out unless it is as it was.
The cam is a kent ast1, would the idle be really lumpy with this?
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/GazLC81/th_VIDEO0009.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/GazLC81/?action=view¤t=VIDEO0009.mp4)
from your last post & the massive advance the dizzy is running, i reckon the advance diaphragm is shot.. when the engine is running. pull the little pipe from the dizzy to the carb off at the carb end, and then suck on it. if the engine note does not change, the diaphragm is shot, and the dizzy won't be working properly.
Gaz1300SR
08-05-12, 09:05 AM
Again, thanks for the reply. I had the car running this morning before I went to work and did as you said. I blew down into the vacuum advance and I couldn't tell a difference in engine note. All I could hear was the air I was blowing going through like blowing down a straw, there was nothing causing an obstruction like I would expect if there was a diaphragm.
Also made me think that recently, before I did anything to the engine, I had the car cut out on me when hot a few times.
time to find a recon dizzy. It will help with the running. Then get it rr'd
Gaz1300SR
08-05-12, 03:50 PM
Yeah good plan. Where do I get a recon dizzy or even new. Had a look on ebay but they are all for the 1.4 engine. I assume this can't be adapted to fit mine?
pikey1986
08-05-12, 05:53 PM
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=h%2Bh%20ignitions&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CF4QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.h-h-ignitionsolutions.co.uk%2F&ei=W0-pT5HZO8_54QTIheXPCA&usg=AFQjCNEX1vPHnhnoR6lyrfZ-U5t9106E3Q
maybe of some use
Gaz1300SR
08-05-12, 06:19 PM
I'll give them a ring cheers mate.
Yeah good plan. Where do I get a recon dizzy or even new. Had a look on ebay but they are all for the 1.4 engine. I assume this can't be adapted to fit mine?
does your new cam have a peg drive for a 1.4 as well as the slot for the 1200/1300 carb dizzy?
Gaz1300SR
08-05-12, 06:26 PM
Yes, there is the slot as you say then a hole on its own as well. Is there a benefit to the newer dizzy or not really?
i don't think there'd be much difference. if you stick to the old style, then you don't need to get a coil & loom to go with it, and they cost a lot of coin.
you have pm btw
your supposed to suck the tune not blow it. blowing will not make a difference. you dont need it running either just whip the dizzy cap off and watch the mechanism as you suck it and see if it moves
burgo, he had it hissing, which means a leaky diaphragm
Gaz1300SR
09-05-12, 08:24 AM
It's as if there is no diaphragm, no resistance at all when I blow or suck on it. (Ooh err!) It must of been like it before I change the cam and head gasket surely, I just hope it sorts out the erratic idle and bogging down at low revs, although I don't hold out much hope....
I am going to service my 40s and fit them as well then send it to be rolling roaded. Hope it will all come together.
Gaz1300SR
20-06-12, 06:01 PM
Update
I got my distributor back today after it has had a new vacuum fitted and a few other bits renewed. I fitted it to the car and there is no difference to how it ran before. I am hoping I can just get it setup properly so it runs then I can get shut of it.
My question is does it need to be done at a rolling road or could someone come to it with the right equiptment and do it here? I don't want to spend money on road tax as i've had enough now so hoping it can be done at my house.... anyone know?
Thanks in advance.
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