View Full Version : stud n nut conversion...
how do you fit them?
are they just screw in n job done?
are these any good?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16x-Vauxhall-Nova-Corsa-Astra-Conversion-Wheel-Stud-Kit-Nuts-12x1-5-40mm-RED-/230676401914?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyre s_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item35b5628efa
or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall-Nova-Astra-Corsa-Stud-Conversion-Rally-Car-/190653711750?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c63d8c586
any info on these would be great as i want to convert my cav :thumb:
pie, really clean up the threads, wind one nut on & a second one on facing the other way so you can tighten them together to lock them, get some really decent high temp loctite & wind them in to the suppliers recommended torque.
slacken the nuts off & repeat.. remember to also tighten the wheels on to the proper torque, as quack fit wazz them up with the windy gun torque will murder them...
we always use a torque wrench these days for our fleet after one of our drivers couldn't change the wheel on a recently bought vehicle
Permanent Thread lock mate, a bit of info in Martin Kelson's thread on them, I bought mine from Rally designs
so lock tight them in
i take it they wind all the way in to the collar on the stud ya mowgli?
any links greame
i know it sound naff but i want nice looking nuts lol to go with my comps and 4 pots etc
as long as you buy decent ones from a reputable source, you'll be fine, remember, there is more shonky knock off on the bay than real stuff, you want some with a guarantee, and decent heat treatment (and a proper set of instructions)
make sure you get the correct taper on the nuts for your alloys too
Mine aren't coloured blingy items, just open cap jobbies as they won't be seen under the speedline caps, studs look the same though
I use RallyDesign for my studs and nuts, seem good prices and hopefully good quality.
Think Spanishfly created a studs and nuts conversion how-to on here with part numbers/lengths.
The key IMO is picking the right length that'll allow the nut to wind on enough but not be a chore to unwind cos they're too long. which can be calculated by measuring disc thickness, wheel thickness etc.
right so you both using rally design stud & nuts
im using these atm iirc ther longer than the standard cav nuts which i needed to go through my bells
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/430596_2807839324907_1526401635_32024023_161206191 8_n.jpg
so ian your saying il need the stud the same lenth as my bolt ya?
thanks
brainsnova
18-03-12, 02:24 PM
You want them longer or your nuts will be flush with the edge
ok having them flush would be a bad idea whould it?
ideally you want them sticking out slightly so all the thread has something to grip to plus a bit more
the ones im looking at are 60mm long n 20mm sits in hud so tha leaves me with 40 to play with?
what thread pitch are the normal bolts?
One of these for putting them in will help as well, onto the non threaded section and you won't end up with them loose (by hand) or molegripped to hell :p
http://www.dropshiponline.co.uk/images/SS292C.jpg
one of what buddy? nothing there lol
ones on Rally design are
12mm x 1.5 080mm long 68mm exposed length
one of what buddy? nothing there lol
Filthy, filthy lies.
Look at this guide: http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?130861-*INFO*-Selecting-the-right-wheel-studs...cheaper-way!
Take a wheel off and measure the thickness of the lowest point of the taper where the bolt head sits, then add the thickness of a nut (on that thread) and you get what length you need for the rear. On the front add a bit for the disc thickness.
Think I'm using 38mm rear and 48mm front exposed length.
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