View Full Version : RJ Track Rod End Conversion...
Pistol Pete
25-02-12, 10:31 AM
Stole this pic from Iains WIP thread...
http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2a/523.JPG
So, would converting to RJ's combat this issue.
Seeing as im sure there are quite a few who are in this situation (im sure i am, but havent even checked TBH!) lol anyone fancy sorting a group buy lol
Also, surely a way of fabricating it so that they mount to the underside would ensure that the track arms are at least nearer to horizontal??
Discuss.
autoworksnovasport
25-02-12, 10:40 AM
mmmmmm bumpsteer ;)
thers a few options on this up to you which one you do
1. turn trackrod end upside down (cant remember if you have to drill the knuckle?? and its a bit ruff)
2. rose joint underneath the knuckes (sleeves and bolts ect)
3. get new hubs machined with the steering arm lower down (big money)
thats all i can think off now but thers probably more options also
SimonTW
25-02-12, 10:41 AM
I'd be interested in a group buy. When I spoke to the chap at Protec he told me it was a simple case drilling the hole out straight rather than tapered then bolt them to the underside of the arm on the hub carrier.
The other option would be to have the hole welded up and then drill new on through and use a tapered reamer to put the correct taper back in but upside down.
autoworksnovasport
25-02-12, 10:45 AM
you would need a spacer of some sort between the rj and the knuckle arm other wise the arm would hit the joint when suspesion compressed
Like them...?
http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ6Wmcl3OyqeN6_4yCb8dIGYmgrJxrLB psgWV6z5j_zBXeUY9-maQ
autoworksnovasport
25-02-12, 10:53 AM
yeah pretty much haha
Anti spherical washers if anyone wants to know the name of em.
Pistol Pete
25-02-12, 11:29 AM
I have heard/read about drilling out the hub carriers, but isn't the taper to stop them falling out??
Old man Jimbo
25-02-12, 03:11 PM
I have heard/read about drilling out the hub carriers, but isn't the taper to stop them falling out??
This.
If you mounted them underneath you would run the risk if the nut came undone.
Maybe drill and lock wire so the nut doesn't come off..
Shonky but when needs must and all that.
Let me go wash my engine bay and get you another picture to use lol
I've been drawing my options up for combatting this. Sounds like it's doable with a competent machinist to invert the taper on the knuckle by drilling and pressing in a new tapered steel item.
Rosejointing sounds the most flexible way, the only kit I've seen to do this is from Compbrake, sounds like Protec do one too according to Simon although can't see them on the site?
I'd be fairly happy with a nylock nut/double nut and a bolt from underneath, shouldn't come undone?
scott.parker
25-02-12, 06:34 PM
Why not just make your own RJ and bolt it to the underside??
Just a basic RJ, or THIS http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/260950659553?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&adtype=pla
Drill it out your hub, use a nylock nut and put some thread lock on it too lol
Their only sixty quid from comp brake anyway but if there is a tenner off I'll have another set
£60 plus VAT, comes to about £80 from Compbrake.
Scott issue is:
1) Most female rosejoints aren't long enough compared to a standard TRE, possible fix for this what I've been looking at is using Corsa arms
2) Thread is M12 x 1.5, which seems quite difficult to get hold of rosejoints with high misalignment angles
I have talked to Compbrake and they say the only modification required is drilling of the hub, so these sound like the ones to go for. Looks like they use a threaded sleeve and male rosejoint to get around the thread pitch & female length problem.
scott.parker
25-02-12, 07:02 PM
£60 plus VAT, comes to about £80 from Compbrake.
Scott issue is:
1) Most female rosejoints aren't long enough compared to a standard TRE, possible fix for this what I've been looking at is using Corsa arms
2) Thread is M12 x 1.5, which seems quite difficult to get hold of rosejoints with high misalignment angles
I have talked to Compbrake and they say the only modification required is drilling of the hub, so these sound like the ones to go for. Looks like they use a threaded sleeve and male rosejoint to get around the thread pitch & female length problem.
Well thats even better idea then, as that will give you even more adjustment, as you can adjust the connecting sleeve and the RJ male part in out etc.
novarally
25-02-12, 08:48 PM
I have the rose-jointed track rod ends on my Nova, for anyone interested. There are various pictures on my thread.
Are yours from Compbrake Colin? And have you tried running them underneath the hub?
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll66/hillclimbescort/090-1.jpg
novarally
26-02-12, 08:21 PM
Are yours from Compbrake Colin? And have you tried running them underneath the hub?
Not sure who made them, sorry. I bought them off DJ Browney off here.
No, I've not tried them from below.
Pistol Pete
26-02-12, 09:59 PM
Ok...so this may seem stupid, but surely the problem will still be partially there even with RJ's mounted on the top??
Ok...so this may seem stupid, but surely the problem will still be partially there even with RJ's mounted on the top??
no. cos you are still using a spherical joint (the tre is still a ball joint) & the arm is still angled.
from an engineering point of view, turning the taper round or fitting a rose joint will probably gain you about 40mm in height on your track rods. would that be enough?
lowering the rose joint on spacers makes for a much weaker connection on the hub,
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