Idea.. Would it work?

[scott.parker]

Right, i was thinking about this the other day, if you have rear coilovers and want to get the car very low on the rear, but without bottoming out the shock, could you get a bit of seal tube with a plated end with a hole in it to take the shock through to bolt it up, then place this as a spacer on top of your turrets where it normally would sit on the rubber/metal washers so meaning you have taken some of the shocks play out and eliminating it from bottoming out, this should allow you to lower the car more, as you have moved the mounting point of the top of the shock higher? correct?? (like making bigger turrets, but just for lowering reasons only)

Scott

[autoworksnovasport]

if iv read that right then no not correct it will just bottom out quiker than usual

[Connor]

Thats what some of the dub boys do anyways, raising the turret in theory then. cant see why it wouldnt work but it would need some proper reinforcement and strengthening. Cant remember how he did it, but Austin modded/made a new rear beam so he could run it lower, i remember reading it somewhere.
The landrover/off road boys also do it to gain extra shock clearance.Have a read of this >CLICKY< (http://www.yell.com/motoring/blog/raising-suspension-turrets/)

[shed-on-wheels]

um i think it will bottom out alot sooner lol i would just make the turrets bigger on the back.......higher they are higher the axel sits = lower the car and as for the fronts....well im sure somthing could be changed lol

[scott.parker]

Connor that's if you turret the rear then you make new shock mounts on the beam in a higher place also, so your moving the shocks higher into the car, but keeping the beam in the same place, meaning a lower over all wheel position when lowerd..

[scott.parker]

um i think it will bottom out alot sooner lol i would just make the turrets bigger on the back.......higher they are higher the axel sits = lower the car and as for the fronts....well im sure somthing could be changed lol

I dont think your getting me, it's the same principle but without turreting the rears, your making the over all hight of the shock mount point higher into the car, so the beam will come up to the bottom of the car closer with the same amount of play left in the shock, so they can not bottom out was what i was thinking?

[autoworksnovasport]

so are thinking of taking the original mounting point out or just putting spacers on top??

[scott.parker]

Not sure, was thinking on top, just brainstorming to come up with what i thought was a quick idea instead of full on turreting etc! lol

[Mieran]

I don't quite understand what you mean tbh

[_Jake]

Yeah it would work, but it would be stronger to properly turret them and make them longer imo

[autoworksnovasport]

simply then no


if you cut out the top mounting point and weld on a closed tube that will lower it without massive turreting but wont be overly strong

[Connor]

Right i am rather tired so may of read this wrongly. But are you saying to that you gonna add spacers to this bit. As surely you will be missing the thread at the top?
http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/connorlake_2008/Untitled-2.jpg
Ideally (although i know you dont wanna) is to turret them like.....
http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/projects-restorations/308485-rear-coilovers-nova.html

[scott.parker]

simply then no


if you cut out the top mounting point and weld on a closed tube that will lower it without massive turreting but wont be overly strong

Thats what i was trying to convey, but it seems i didn't do a very good job of it.

i'll just try it, and see how it comes out.

[Bubba]

you mean essentially a chassis drop. i know what you mean, and theoretically yes it would work

add tube to the turret top so the shock opens up more therefore creating more travel.

simples

[Connor]

Ahhh you mean lower the turret? i need to go the bed lol

[peester]

All youre on about here is turreting; yes weld the top mounting higher into the car; instant slammage. (once youve put the car back down on its wheel, of course.)
Just may want to choose a stiffer setup of shocks and springs, so their is less travel.

[mowgli]

moving the suspension point from the chassis leg to the shocker mount will mean you need some stronger metal there.

[blue_peg_16v]

Easy way is to move the hub mounting plates higher which gibes the same effect while keeping the beam further from the underneath so you still have room for an exhaust etc, again would need strengthening but is a better method IMO

[BRoadGhost]

Raising plates isn't really the way forward if you're taking things to extremes; turrets are the right way, then you'll encounter the next negative effects to overcome.

[Paul]

Move the mount poin in the beam down an inch.

[gazz]

Would this sort of thing work better? plates that higher the stubs. inturn lowers the car but all else stays at same. meaning same shock points no exhaust squashing over beam..

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t60/gazzgsi/reaerplates-1.jpg

[therealnovaboy]

all these will work but why would you bother. Its not going to handle well and is a complete bodge.

If you want it lower, buy lowering springs and shortened shocks.

I wouldnt even recomend cutting front springs never mind the ideas that have been mentioned here.

[gazz]

all these will work but why would you bother. Its not going to handle well and is a complete bodge.

If you want it lower, buy lowering springs and shortened shocks.

I wouldnt even recomend cutting front springs never mind the ideas that have been mentioned here.

he has coilovers

[garyc]

Surely for the price of new shorter Coilover bodies that would be the easiest/ safest way. You can always get a decent price for 2nd hand units too.

[therealnovaboy]

he has coilovers

makes it an even more useless idea.

if its that low, surely the problem is that the beam will hit the exhaust and tyre well ?

[MARTIN KELSON]

'If' it did work your biggest restriction as i see will be the tyre hitting the inner arch well before you got to the stance your thinking of.

[burgo]

makes it an even more useless idea.

if its that low, surely the problem is that the beam will hit the exhaust and tyre well ?


the beam touches the chassis legs before the exhaust would get squashed. bin there done that

[blue_peg_16v]

the beam touches the chassis legs before the exhaust would get squashed. bin there done that

Depends on the exhaust my 2.5in boar used to catch on my old hatch so had to raise the plates and fit 60mm springs instead of 100mm ones

[burgo]

well then your exhaust is to big lol

[Sturge]

Channel the chassis rails and fit an exhaust tunnel for extra clearance and get it turreted. Job done



Front on the other hand.............................

[Paul]

all these will work but why would you bother. Its not going to handle well and is a complete bodge.

If you want it lower, buy lowering springs and shortened shocks.

I wouldnt even recomend cutting front springs never mind the ideas that have been mentioned here.

Moving the shock with telescopic setup (spring and shock seperate) would have no effect on ride height. We are talking about coilovers.
So judging by your lack of understanding and knowledge i wouldnt listen to any 'recomendations' from you anyway.

[BRoadGhost]

"all these will work but why would you bother. Its not going to handle well and is a complete bodge.

If you want it lower, buy lowering springs and shortened shocks."

- Couldn't disagree more.

It doesn't matter what open length dampers you run; only where / how they mount.

The exhaust becomes an issue trying to go over the beam which is why you go side exit; had I not of already made a diffuser, another option would be to convert the beam to independent & take the exhaust straight through the middle.

That's an idea - you could then cut the diffuser & have the exhaust blowing through it.

You know you're on the right lines when the handbrake cable guides on the beam start touching the chassis legs.

http://www.mojoimage.com/free-image-hosting-10/6953FS-Side.JPG

[Leeboo]

Where do you get the plates to move the rear stub axles higher? Or are they DIY.