e16se running issues

[Curtoise]

my 1.6 is running now and is pretty lumpy :( sound like its got a misfire to me but its not missing when i rev it or accelerate.

also it takes ages for the revs to drop once reved ? :thumb:
cheers

[Curtoise]

also someone told me because i have removed my center silenser it can run abit lumpy on idle?

[Curtoise]

Right serious problem might be suspected headgasket now!
Ran on a hour to my girlfriends house popped the bonnet and there was no coolant in the header tank.... So I cracked the cap off and it de pressurized and the coolant returned !

I thought there was a air lock so I left the cap off and ran it up and it bubbled from the bottom hose on the header tank and the coolant level went down.... So I topped it back up and put the cap back on. Then ran it again and the level was fine but it was smoking a fair bit. White smoke. I then cracked off the oil cap and it was pressurized !?! And vapour was coming out ? And the cap was milky :(
I don't think its burning water as the level isn't moving.... I shall add however that its running lumpy and like crap still and maybe the white smoke is just unburnt fuel ?
I was thinking maybe I have abreather hose on the icv so its not letting the oil system breath ?

I'm soooo bummed out right now just want it working :(

[Curtoise]

Pics :
http://i551.photobucket.com/albums/ii448/curtreid8/IMAG1274.jpg

http://i551.photobucket.com/albums/ii448/curtreid8/IMAG1281.jpg

[mowgli]

curtoise. the e16se can airlock on the water manifold under the inlet manifold. if the water is holding its level the most likely it hasn't blown the gasket just yet. the crap on the inside of theoil cap is nowt... when a head gasket is blown, all the oil looks like bailey irish cream!!!!

now, having had a miriad of problems in mine until last week, here goes on the running..

the icv will make it idle like a sack of spanners. pinch the pipe that runs to it, and see if it runs better....the icv is basically an electric choke run from the CTS, you can test it by looking down the hole when it is cold & see if the shutter is open or closed, if it is open when cold, then it is tatered... there is a tiny notch ignore it.

the CTS is also a classic, and is linked into airlocking in the water manifold, they aren't too much to fit a new one if there is no hot coolant round the cts, it thinks the engine is cold, and will run too rich.

the afm to intake flexi hose looks horrible, is it split? if so, it will screw up the mixture & cause horrendous idling.

then the timing can be way out, it probably needs retarding a bit.. remember, when these engines were launched, you could still get 4* leaded petrol, and the factory settings were for that fuel, not this 2* unleaded piss we get these days..

i found that these engines seem to eat spark plugs if the mixture is too rich.

the vacuum pipes need checking for leaks, as does the coasting valve, it is on the lh side of the intake & looks like a mini fuel reg..

also check the throtle cable & throttle switch are ok.

i have been buying up spare components for mine for the last 2 years, and i recommend you do the same.. things like ignition ecu's & coils can be found for cheap money, and i swapped them both last week & made mine run like a sewing machine for the first time in 15 years...lol

[Curtoise]

Cheers for you help mate, what is the its and is the icv the thing just at the back of the cam box ? Tbh I think I heard it pinking under load, this engine doesn't have a dizzy cap tho but it has been off since I did the head gasket. Can this still be adjusted by rotating if ? Or is it electronic ? How can I remove the airlock ? And thank you very much for your help its greatly appreciated.

[mowgli]

Cheers for you help mate, what is the its
cts? its the ecu temp sensor, its either in the head under the dizzy or the coolant manifold (if fitted) under the inlet.
and is the icv the thing just at the back of the cam box ?
its where a fuel pump is on a carb nova, it is ally bodied, has 2 rubber hoses into it & a 2 pin plug


Tbh I think I heard it pinking under load, this engine doesn't have a dizzy cap tho but it has been off since I did the head gasket. Can this still be adjusted by rotating if ? Or is it electronic ? How can I remove the airlock ? And thank you very much for your help its greatly appreciated.
rotating the dizzy, yes.. if you stand to the lhs, undo the clamp & rotate it anticlockwise, it will retard it.
as for the airlock, you need to set the heater to hot, and get it warm, carefully undo the rad cap, and then squeeze
the coolant hoses several time to purge the air.

[Curtoise]

right you were right on the timing side of things, i got my timing light out and it was a little to advanced. so i retarded it abit to the right place.
however now i am really worryd so took a video of that its doing to help eloborate my problems, there is alot of vapor coming out the oil cap if i remove it and im sure when i took it out for a drive i saw blue smoke under load..... and now bubbles are coming up from the header tank! could this be a air lock still? also it pressurized awfull fast :s vids uploading now

[Curtoise]

this is the video please excuse the shoddy angle as my phone put it this way up

http://s551.photobucket.com/albums/ii448/curtreid8/?action=view&current=VIDEO0070.mp4

[mowgli]

Does it still bubble with the expansion bottle cap tightly fitted?? Cos they will bubble with it off..

There is so much noise going on in the background that it is almost impossible to hear anything valuable on the engine..

Go to first principles, cam timing, spark timing, check for air leaks, i assume the duck tape is on the flexi to cover a hole.

[Curtoise]

yeah i duct taped and tiger sealed the hole up as it was split. also think i got to the bottom of the vast oil pressure, checked the oil again and it was way over max, so drained some out so now it sits on max. and started it up and now its run ALOT better, still over fueling i think tho. also the bottom rad hose where it connects to the metal water pipe sprayed coolant out when i wiggled it, so i re-sealed that and now thats sealed. also the pipe that goes to the header tank is to short so someone has extended it and i can see it dripping from here when i turn the engine off and it is pressurised. so i think the air is getting in here!
slowly getting to the bottom of it. also now that the oil is at normal level it doesnt presurize the pipes as fast.

is there a set place for the idle screw to be? because i have messed about with it and want it at standard so i can adjust from there. as it is quite far out and i can hear it sucking alot.

[Curtoise]

also now its running abit better, a bodged hose split on me so i made a new one thats better.
now its running alot better

i have noticed it runs smoother on choke now when its cold? and when its warm and im driving it, it jerks when i feather the throttle to keep a speed constant.
anyone know what this could be ?

[mowgli]

its the winter, you have a performance filter, the cold air will make it jumpy.

what you need to do is get it hooked up to someones emissions tester & get the idle & timing set up properly.

[Curtoise]

That's true. Right its okay now however when I feather the throttle the car lurched about its okay when accelerating and completely lifting off, any ideas

[mowgli]

is the afm sticking?

[Curtoise]

I don't think so, think it might be coz the afm isn't bolted solid yet. However a bigger problem now is that it seems to link under load when hot :s could this be the idle screw?

[mowgli]

more likely timing

[Curtoise]

That was supposed to say pink not link, I will get the bottom pulley backplate on soon so I can line it up with a timing light. Last time it seemed to nearly stall when I retarded it to what I thought was the right amount ?!