pyromaniac_yeti
12-12-11, 10:59 PM
I'm fully aware that im going to get called all the names under the sun for this, but here goes...
The 1.5TD recived a 2nd hand forge twin piston dumpvalve.
Vac connection goes from the servo side of the one way valve, into the solenoid, out into DV.
Boost connection goes from a T on the manifold and connects to the solenoid.
DV is a twin piston forge jobbie. It has been stripped, regreased, cleaned and rebuilt more times in the past week than i've had hot meals...and i eat a LOT. It moves VERY VERY smoothly.
Vac pipes i have changed all through over three different sets, no change, same with the boost lines. no change.
No boost leakage, full 17PSI boost.
Microswitch connected on throttle stop, when pedal released switch clicks and valve opens. pedal pressed valve drops...both almost instantly, slightly slower on the upwards.
Whenever i drive the car setup as such, no "ppssst" noise.
HOWEVER,
Should i drive the car with the microswitch in my hand, run it along the road at anything above (at a guess) 5psi ish, and press the microswitch before lifting, "PSSSHT".
As far as i can make out, the boost is gone before such times as the valve opens.
I have tried:
Two different solenoids
Copper grease on the seals
Diesel oil on the seals
General purpose grease on the seals
WD40 on the seals
Replacing the vac tubing throuought
Replacing all jubilee clips
trimming one coil off the mainspring
Removing all spacers from mainspring
Trying one spacer at a time on the mainspring
Grease and a new solenoid helped a great deal with the valve opening, however im now at a loss. Perhaps the forge DV has too big a piston for the 1.5TD's vac pump to move quickly? Perhaps the seals are shot (when i push the piston all the way up and put my finger over the vac/boost hose inlet, it slides down to about the halfway point and then very very very slowly drops to the fully closed position, however doesnt propperly shut till i let my finger off)??
Im fully aware that the main cause of said problem is my inner steak & kidney lock opener trying to get out, and that it was a **** idea to start with, however this should in theory work perfectly!
Any help would be much appreciated! :thumb:
EDIT: I'm not sure if this would have any effect whatsoever on the engine, however one of the downpipe bolts decided it diddent like life anymore and i've yet to replace it.
The 1.5TD recived a 2nd hand forge twin piston dumpvalve.
Vac connection goes from the servo side of the one way valve, into the solenoid, out into DV.
Boost connection goes from a T on the manifold and connects to the solenoid.
DV is a twin piston forge jobbie. It has been stripped, regreased, cleaned and rebuilt more times in the past week than i've had hot meals...and i eat a LOT. It moves VERY VERY smoothly.
Vac pipes i have changed all through over three different sets, no change, same with the boost lines. no change.
No boost leakage, full 17PSI boost.
Microswitch connected on throttle stop, when pedal released switch clicks and valve opens. pedal pressed valve drops...both almost instantly, slightly slower on the upwards.
Whenever i drive the car setup as such, no "ppssst" noise.
HOWEVER,
Should i drive the car with the microswitch in my hand, run it along the road at anything above (at a guess) 5psi ish, and press the microswitch before lifting, "PSSSHT".
As far as i can make out, the boost is gone before such times as the valve opens.
I have tried:
Two different solenoids
Copper grease on the seals
Diesel oil on the seals
General purpose grease on the seals
WD40 on the seals
Replacing the vac tubing throuought
Replacing all jubilee clips
trimming one coil off the mainspring
Removing all spacers from mainspring
Trying one spacer at a time on the mainspring
Grease and a new solenoid helped a great deal with the valve opening, however im now at a loss. Perhaps the forge DV has too big a piston for the 1.5TD's vac pump to move quickly? Perhaps the seals are shot (when i push the piston all the way up and put my finger over the vac/boost hose inlet, it slides down to about the halfway point and then very very very slowly drops to the fully closed position, however doesnt propperly shut till i let my finger off)??
Im fully aware that the main cause of said problem is my inner steak & kidney lock opener trying to get out, and that it was a **** idea to start with, however this should in theory work perfectly!
Any help would be much appreciated! :thumb:
EDIT: I'm not sure if this would have any effect whatsoever on the engine, however one of the downpipe bolts decided it diddent like life anymore and i've yet to replace it.