View Full Version : pierburg 2e3 carb help pls
hi i have just fitted an inlet manifold and pierburg 2e3 carb from a 1300 sr on to my 1200 antibes engine, i have plumbed it up to the best of my knowledge but on the pierburg carb there is a water through and return, i know one of them is from the heater matrix box thingy, but where does the other one connect to as got the carb and manifold of the dreadded ebay and dont really know where it goes to, the car iddles irratically if at all??? could i block this pipe off? im out of idea's??? if any one could if poss post a pic or two with a describtion would be great, many thanks in advance
could any pls also talk me through all the vacuums aswell what goes to what??
2 bumps in 45mins?!
Be patient man,not everyone lives on here
Gaz1300SR
22-07-11, 07:41 PM
As far as I remember it connects to the other pipe to/from the heater matrix. I assume you are meaning the water pipes on the auto choke?
yes mate if i connected to that should that help me out? do you know if that may help with the idleing? also could i be checky and ask for a pic of yours under the bonnet??? thanks
as for the bump comments i just want up the top of the tread so hopefully i can get some help,
thanks to all
Gaz1300SR
22-07-11, 09:24 PM
Mine has no carb or inlet at the moment mate, in middle of fitting twin 40s and cam. Plus I chucked my pierburg in the shed a few weeks after buying the car 3 years ago.
It should help idle if it has warmed up when the fault occurs. Is it idling poor when cold? Did you replace the inlet gasket? Sounds like an air leak to me.
replaced the gasket and used blue silicone gasket sealer aswell, will attempt to sort out tomoz, cheers
Gaz1300SR
22-07-11, 09:37 PM
I'll see tomorrow if I have any pics of the pipes as they were before I removed them.....
I will try to take pics of the 2e2 as it is standard on a 1.3 if that would be any help?
all pics would be a very big help as prob got my hoses all muddeled up and prob got to make one of the autochoke water pipe hose to heater box upmyself, also got 1 vacuum hose from carb to dizzy, and another vacuum hose from front of carb to rear of carb??? def not right so all help needed, thanks
C612DNM
23-07-11, 03:40 PM
Get yourself a Haynes manual - you'll find it responds quicker than this forum!
Gaz1300SR
23-07-11, 05:42 PM
Put up a picture of the carb and what you have so far in terms of setting up.
here are pics of mine,
http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af5/69marc/sr%20engine/Photo225.jpg
http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af5/69marc/sr%20engine/Photo226.jpg
http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af5/69marc/sr%20engine/Photo224.jpg
This carb has thne yellow box think instead of the in fuel pipr to the side, I have one of those if yours doesn't have the yellow thing, but there is very little difference.
Hope these are of some help.
Gaz1300SR
23-07-11, 07:35 PM
This is a pic of what it looks like with no carb or manifold, I had a weber 34/32 fitted. The only difference to standard is the thinner pipes on the left of the picture are joined together, on a 2e3 like yours they would go into the autochoke.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/GazLC81/SDC11253.jpg
You will prob just need a couple of T pieces to make that for yours. Better off getting a weber 34/32 and selling the pierburb imho.
the vacum pipe at the front goes to the dizzy, the one at the back goes to the inlet manifold (directly under it)
The top pipe to the auto choke is from the heater matrix, the bottom pipe on the auto choke should go to the return (ie where the pipe from the matrix would originally have gone)
As for idling after lying dormant, make sure all the springs in the auto choke mechanism are aligned corerectly, also the crab will have been set for a larger capacity so it will have to be tuned for your engine.
The auto chokes are always difficult to set to run properly, when the car is cold the fast idle is usually between 1500-1750 adjusted on the cam. When hot, it should go down to 750-900.
Why are you changing to this carb? the single carb will give almost as good a performance and be more reliable on your car. These are not twin carbs but double barreled carbs, the 2nd one only kicks in with pressure (will a smaller cc make enough pressure?) along with the electric fuel pump. Even on the SR you have to push very hard to open the 2nd barrel, most driving is done on just the one barrel therefore it is the same as a single carb.
These became popular in the 1980s because they had auto choke, a cheap alternative to injection by some other manufacturers. When really pushing the car they do work, but if you drove your car like that all the time, a carbourettor would soon be the least problem!
i have put a t-piece on the heater matrix return now from the lower auto choke pipe,
i have noticed on the front of the carb i have 2 vacuum pipes, 1 to the dizzy, other to ????????????????????
the vacuum on the back is from the inlet manifold and not the carb, where does this connect to???
is there a carb tuning pin i need to adjust??? i have found a flat headed pin near the front of the throttle cable assembly and have had a play with this but if anything it has made it alot worse, have i played about with the wrong needle/pin or is there another i need to find and set up correctly,
i have just got a haynes manual won on ebay does anybody who already has one know if it says must problem solving with these carbs???
if not i really dont want to put the old carb back on as before i got the car a month ago, it was in a barn for 12 years untouched and carb has always seemed to be holding back so assumed blocked,
my other option is to find a weber 34/32 but cash permits,
thanks all
Gaz1300SR
23-07-11, 09:39 PM
Haynes doesn't say a lot. Yours is due to air leaks i reckon. Read the post before yours again about the vacuum pipes......... have you had the carb off the manifold and resealed. Carb might be knackered and in need of a rebuild tbh.
i have not split the carb from the manifold, but i have not put the airbox on as the one i have is off my 1200 and is two small to fit the carb top,i know this doesnt help but it should at least run i thaught???
i know im low on petrol so going to put a fivers worth in tomorrow,
when it runs its at about 2k but will not run on that as goes up to 2750 on its own and flutuates up and down, up and down, up and down, all by its self,
would a weber be any easier for me to use, i am greatful for all advise and understand that gaz urs isnt on the car so prob no good asking you about vacuums, but dont quite understand the prevoius post about them?, as said i have 1 on the back of the inlet manifold,where does this connect to???
and two on the front of the carb, 1 to the carb from dizzy, but where does the second go to???
does this connect to the inlet at the back????
just to add can anyone tell me how to add pics of my own to this tread cause it would prob be easier to show rather then explain???
thanks to all
You have to upload photos to photobucket first photobucket.com
Then transfer them to here using the 3rd last icon above the text box.
It is a shame that there isn't someone in or near reading who could look at it surely to tell you if it is a mistake you have made or the carb needs work. I know what it is like trying to cure problems on your own!
My original carb ran beautifully but when put up a hill etc, the car would conk out a few minutes later. Was told it was timing etc but, tried the carb I use now and that problem went, however, when cold it used to stall all the time. Got it sorted now and all seems to run well at last!!
Gaz1300SR
23-07-11, 10:44 PM
Right, I've been down to the shed and dug out the pierburg.
The second pic shows one vac pipe missing just above the other one which goes to the other black round thing one the left of pic. The vac pipe at the very bottom goes to the dizzy. The two vacs at front go together. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/GazLC81/utf-8BSU1BRzA0MDMuanBn.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/GazLC81/utf-8BSU1BRzA0MDQuanBn.jpg
gaz i know its prob a long shot but as you havent used yours for a while and going twin 40's, would you sell your old carb as to be honest it seems to be different to the one i have and im starting to think that may be one of the problems im having??? on mine it says pierburg and then elsewhere on the carb it says 2e but not 2e3???
gaz would you sell your old pierburg carb at all? im looking at the pics of yours and they do seem to be different to the carb i have on mine, mine is stanped p;ierburg then on another part of the carb it says 2e but not 2e3???? maybe i have an earlier model or at the moment i just dont know?? alot of my vacuums seem to be in different places described in previous treads and are different places to the ones in alll the pics?
http://http://s1123.photobucket.com/albums/l552/b16nov/
http://s1123.photobucket.com/albums/l552/b16nov/, have uploaded a few pics with much difficulty which i took wilst putting on during friday, will take more and upload to photobucket tomorrow to show the carb better as still thing its a different carb
brainsnova
24-07-11, 02:33 AM
Here's one of your pics. Use the img code
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u331/Brain_missing/d56222af.jpg
Gaz1300SR
24-07-11, 08:25 AM
Pretty sure yours is a 2e3 mate, looks like one. I was having problems with mine so I bought a weber, can't remember what was wrong with it but I am not in the habit if selling faulty stuff. Mine will need rebuilding and auto choke sorting so you'd be no better off.
If you were local I'd come and had a look, someone else might be local and know there stuff....
did everyone who has looked managed to see my photobucket pics ok?
i am about to get under the bonnet and take aload more
also my b16nov pics r.i.p from about 4 years ago
Jon_nova1
24-07-11, 10:40 AM
have you only connected the carb after having low fuel?? with low fuel the pump will take ages to pull the fuel through the lines if there isn't any fuel in the line
i have uploaded alot more pics on photobucket now with finger pointers to what i have going where, i have put the title of pic to what i assume it goes to or is connected to at the moment, pls can anybody try to double check this for me and post on here if that seems correct or if i need to try again many thanks
http://s1123.photobucket.com/albums/l552/b16nov/
Gaz1300SR
24-07-11, 09:46 PM
That is a 2e3 but not one of a 1.3sr. Maybe off a vw or something. SR ones don't have a return that I know of on the carb, it's blanked. The 2 vacs on the front are blanked on the SR 2e3 also.
Cheers
to be honest im sick to death with the hassel of it all, i have put my old carb back on tonight and all running great ecept i dont have the manual choke as the handle in the inside snapped off,
i have listed back on ebay to try and get some cash back on it to put towards some springs or gsi skirts,
thanks you to everybody for all your help
Gaz1300SR
24-07-11, 10:10 PM
Don't blame you mate, I bought a weber 34/32 off ebay and it was knackered! People will sell anything and tell you a pack of lies on there. Thats why I bought a brand new weber next time. Once I get my 40s running I will be selling my weber twin choke on the manifold if you are still after something. It's done about 7-800 miles.
brainsnova
24-07-11, 10:15 PM
I bolted a 1.3sr carb to a 1.2 carb engine that i dropped in my sr while I was fixing my engine and it ran spot on apart from overfuelling when I floored it lol so contact the seller for a refund to say it's fooked.
i would be interested inn the manifold and carb as to be honest just from the help and advise on here over the hwhole subject i trust you alot more then others, but all depends on money and what price your after for it, cheers
Gaz1300SR
24-07-11, 10:40 PM
Cheers mate, I will PM you once I have got mine sorted.
that is a 2e carb from an SR but is pre 1987, the fuel return pipe is from the carb, later ones had it blanked and used the yellow thing. There are a few connections not right but I would have to actually take my laptop out to my car and study it.
If you do decide to try it, let me know and I will try to see what is what but, even once you have it all connected and assuming the carb is actually all ok, you willl need to set it up carefully as they can be awkward.
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