View Full Version : Front discs keep warping???
Hi guys,
My front discs constantly keep warping ive never had any probs with any other vauxhall just novas my brakes are blead properly, discs and pads are new, servos good has anybody else had any similar probs if so how did you cure them?
Also to improve the pedal feel without moving the master cylinder can i use any other servo master combos off any other vauxhalls or would just another servo cure it?
Damo.
have you checked to see if you got a sticky calipar as it might be slighty binding on etc
Yea calipers are new mate spin free as a bird.
what brake setup you running? 256's?
Yea ate 256s mate with decents pads and grooved discs.
What bedding in procedure are you following?
Just normal bedding procedure i tell most people when i fit them at work tbh jack go steady for first couple hundred mile?.
if your using vauxhall parts then the problem must lie elsewhere as in servo or something, you can get away with motorfactor discs but not pads, its gotta be gm or whatever is suppose to be run with the discs your using, bedding in brakes takes about 20 miles if that then you can stand on the pedal which ever way you want and they'll be fine, i would put on gm discs/pads and change the master cylinder/servo and try that, not much can go wrong tbh as its most basic set up you can get, good luck
But if it was the master/servo unit then surely wouldnt be the same on both novas ive had as they both been the same?
I read somewhere that warped discs were a myth, and the warped feel is just a layer of brake pad stuck on the disc. Happens when you get the brakes nice and hot then sit at a set of lights on the foot brake, melting your pad to the disc. Not sure how true this is but something to consider.
Hmm sounds lodgical tbh hobbit might give them a flat off with some sandpaper see what happens then.
I read somewhere that warped discs were a myth, and the warped feel is just a layer of brake pad stuck on the disc. Happens when you get the brakes nice and hot then sit at a set of lights on the foot brake, melting your pad to the disc. Not sure how true this is but something to consider.
Thats what causes atleast 90% of 'warpage'
As for going steady for a few hundred miles, theres yer problem ;) Use the Mintex way of a few 30-5mph slows to warm things up then a few 50-30 slows and then a few 50-5 slows and finally a couple of 60+to 10 slows..... Pads and discs = bed in a ready to abuse :) NEVER EVER EVER EVER come to a full stop on the brakes when bedding in!
Thats what causes atleast 90% of 'warpage'
As for going steady for a few hundred miles, theres yer problem ;) Use the Mintex way of a few 30-5mph slows to warm things up then a few 50-30 slows and then a few 50-5 slows and finally a couple of 60+to 10 slows..... Pads and discs = bed in a ready to abuse :) NEVER EVER EVER EVER come to a full stop on the brakes when bedding in!
So as in my above post if i flat them off with a little sandpaper would this remedy my problem.
As Stu said, from varying speeds to about 5-10mph is the best way to bed brakes in, and avoid slamming them on to a full stop.
You can try skimming them over with a bit of sandpaper but ideally they'd want a proper measured whip over to ensure they're properly flat.
what you can get is hotspots, and the hot spots if cooled quickly, will harden differently to the rest of the surface, so the friction characteristics will be wrong on some sections of the disc. this will judder a lot.... drilled/grooved discs are more likely to have this happen than std 'solid' faced vented discs, as the grooves & holes will definitely help the surface to warm & cool at different rates.
As Stu said, from varying speeds to about 5-10mph is the best way to bed brakes in, and avoid slamming them on to a full stop.
You can try skimming them over with a bit of sandpaper but ideally they'd want a proper measured whip over to ensure they're properly flat.
Hmm ok ill give this a try then see what happens it not ill have to invest in a new set.
most decent truck spares/reline shops will skim discs down to flat metal. then if you get some new pads (decent ones) you can ring their technical phone line and ask them what their recommended bedding in procedure is.
a new pad on an old disc will always take way longer to be in than a new disc/pad, simply because of the surface wear. i personally reckon brakes arent properly bedded for a good 500 miles of decent mixed driving.. this 100 miles & you are fine thing isn't right since they changed to asbestos free in the early nineties, and the modern oe replacement stuff is usually made with 'anti fade' characteristics for alps & other inclines, and is so hard that the actual brake is terrible for ages.
(i used to work in a brake reline business)
How much is skimming discs usually?
How much is skimming discs usually?
My local place charges £20 a disc as they need to be on the car... so mightaswell get new discs lol
Oh Mintex bedding in provedure (which is the same as PFB and Carbon Lorraine) https://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0AdZcgTxX7nQOZGQzc2diOXRfNmNma3c1OGRm&hl=en_US
I know its for 'lairy pads' BUT BUT!!! the basic compound is the same organics for the lower end stuff, I did the same as the 1144 procedure on some pikey pads on the passat and they are perfect after 50 miles :)
As said, discs cant really "warp" tbh. The shakey feel is down to pad deposits.
And i always bed brakes in the way has been suggested in this thread. Hit them hard but do not stop with the pedal.
Never had an issue.
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