Lowing Tie Bars

[Benn]

As above, my tie bars will need lowering due to the F28, I was thinking of doing something like this.. But in box sec.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v321/bennh/Crap/DSC00545.jpg
(cheers to Rich for the pic)

It this the best way? I'll be bolting thru the cross member still down thru it all.
The spacing the rear down on the arms with blocks.

[mk1nova_rich]

The other option is to weld a drilled tab on top of the vertical part of the bracket so it can still be bolted to the crossmember once a block has been fitted in between the bottom of the crossmember and the bracket

[Benn]

Surely not as safe tho? What is the tab brakes off for force...

[mk1nova_rich]

Should be fine it is done by a competent welder. I'm not really clued up on all these big block mods...its just something I've seen done :)

[Benn]

Yeah i've seen it done that way too. Just thought this way would be better...

[16v Nova Kev]

i like the look of that and also will give added castor

[bazil]

Weld captive nuts inside the box section before welding to the crossmember?

[mk1nova_rich]

The above does look better, just a lot more work involved especially if you reliant on someone else to do the fabrication.

The only other option I can think of is a completely redesigned custom crossmember lol

[The Simps]

As you've said above is the best option but more work. Adding a tab will be fine as long as its done properly. My old one, the plates were around 4-5mm thick and welded professionally. 10min job tho. The hole in the plate was pressed in and elongated so that I could run a variety of spacers.

[The Simps]

Also, if you go the box section route I'd replace the forward facing fault with something with a more universal thread ;)

[Paul]

Very clever way of getting more castor i like that.

[16v Nova Kev]

i was going to lathe and re tap the tie bars but that looks better

[Stuart]

Thats not adjusting castor peeps, its just moving the pivot point down. It might give you anti Dive/squat though

Castor is adjusted when you lengthen/shorten the tiebar to move the wheel back or forward in the arch.

[Benn]

I was gonna have a bolt go all the way thru and a nut on the other side, with the 2 still going thru the mount and cross member. Square tubing 3holes drilled in it, just need it welding in place then...

[Paul]

Thats not adjusting castor peeps, its just moving the pivot point down. It might give you anti Dive/squat though

Castor is adjusted when you lengthen/shorten the tiebar to move the wheel back or forward in the arch.

Look at the pic again.

[Stuart]

moved forwards by about 3mm... not much extra castor :p

[Paul]

:d

[Mieran]

I would go for the spacer block method, thats what I've got on my car

[joshy]

i would have thought it would be easier to just remake the tie-bars from hollow tubing, threaded at the crossmember end with a threaded insert so you can adjust caster. then flaten the tubing at the wheel end. then just have the bar bent to avoid the gearbox

[ste porter]

Also, if you go the box section route I'd replace the forward facing fault with something with a more universal thread ;)

same thread as head bolts for c20xe's and ther the right length for a 40-50mm drop;)

thats what i used with my nova turbo

[The Simps]

same thread as head bolts for c20xe's and ther the right length for a 40-50mm drop;)

thats what i used with my nova turbo


Are you talking about the 2 main long ones that go down through the crossmember and the spacer? I was refering to the single bolt that faces forward and holds the "tab" if you will.

[Iain]

I'd just get some fabricated rosejointed lowered tie bar brackets, easier and nicer than trying to do fancy box sections welded to the crossmember?

[Benn]

So get the brackets extended, and just have a box sess spacer... Or do you mean like the posh ones you have?

[Benn]

same thread as head bolts for c20xe's and ther the right length for a 40-50mm drop;)

thats what i used with my nova turbo


And fly wheel bolts work in the front facing holes...lol

[Iain]

Fancy ones like mine, bolt straight on with no hassle, job jobbed

[Benn]

But cost 150....

Or i get mine welded for alot less....

[Iain]

You won't be as cool as me though with your shonky welded brackets.

[Benn]

But i'll be 125 quid better off...lol

[mk1nova_rich]

For a car like yours Benn, I would go for some fancy brackets :)

[Benn]

Normally so would i, but i might have been spending alot at the mo...lol

[mk1nova_rich]

Why not just do the spacer option for now Benn...?! Then get some proper jobbies later on...I just think fabricating some box section onto the crossmember is a lot of unnecessary work and IMO doesn't look all that clever either :thumb: