View Full Version : Even more 1300 problems lol
Here we go again :(
I've swapped the cam housing over with a standard cam in it
Now I started it up earlier but temperature gauge then steadily rose to off the gauge and the engine was very very hot, was only running for 5mins so I turned it off
Any ideas what could cause this ?
Timing issue?
No water loss and top rad hose was hot so that would say the stat is working fine
I'm on the verge of giving up :(lol
Edd
Royston
08-04-11, 04:33 PM
Have you set the ignition timing?
Could be too far advanced, or running very lean or both
It is full of coolant, i.e. no airlocks
Royston
08-04-11, 04:34 PM
I'm on the verge of giving up :(lol
Edd
You are a Martyr to the causelol
Royston
08-04-11, 04:36 PM
Colourtune plug would give an indication;)
Didn't Craig Green mentioned his dad had one
Got a timing light?
I havnt set the timing with a light
Craig said to me earlier that the timing could be causing it
Set with a light needed then ?
Don't think there is a air lock, what's the best way to check ?
Royston
08-04-11, 04:47 PM
I would get a timing light and set the ignition timing properly, then that is eliminated, could always retard the ignition anyway without one in the mean time;) But check it later with one;)
Royston
08-04-11, 04:48 PM
If the pipes are all hot, i.e. water is circulating should be OK
Ok cheers
Another thing which I'm not sure about is the marks on the bottom pulley, there's a notch then there is another mark, this mark is TDC
Still unsure which mark should line up with the pointer ???
Royston
08-04-11, 05:51 PM
There's only one mark on my bottom pulleys, but iirc, that is also the timing mark, got a Haynes manual handy? They're made not too far from youlol
Got a Haynes says line the notch and painter up
I always thought you timed it up by putting it to TDC ? which is the other mark
I'm probably confusing myself and I'm smoking more fags lol
Did the fan kick in when it got hot?
Basic ignition timing is 12 deg btdc iirc. Don't get confused with tdc and what the ignition timing should be.
(you stole my thread title! lol)
Fan did not kick in :confused:
It's timed up with notch on bottom pulley lined up with pointer and mark on cam pulley in line with housing
Almost sounds like it's firing on 3 until you blip throttle
Fooking thing is pissing me off tbh, never had trouble like this with my SR
Southie
08-04-11, 06:58 PM
Have you put standard pulleys back on or are you still using the verniers?
Standard cam pulley now on
Now thinking of finishing the rest of it and taking it to a local chap who used to race nova's way back, old school chap, and getting him to set it all up
Didn't want to do this as it will cost :(
Saying that if I get a timing light off Craig I/we might be able to sort it
Just confused to why it's now decided to get so hot ?
This bloody Spanish biscuit tin is really testing me
The std 1300 pulley mark is 10 degrees BTDC and not TDC.
comptoncj
08-04-11, 07:20 PM
Edd do all the hoses get hot? What i normally do when starting up an engine that ive fitted a waterpump to or anything to do with bleeding the cooling system is start it up, heater on full hot, header tank cap off, when the heater is hot and the stat is open i put the cap on, that way you shouldnt get an air lock, if its boiling over out the expansion bottle then you may have to look into the waterpump, its not unheard of to get a faulty one.
Sorry about the essay! lol
All hose get hot, maybe a little too hot
I could try another water pump
Southie
08-04-11, 07:37 PM
Are your water pipes rock hard, you may have a airlock somewhere. How much antifreeze have you put in? And is the thermostat working okay?
Royston
08-04-11, 07:47 PM
The std 1300 pulley mark is 10 degrees BTDC and not TDC.
You are correct, but for timing the Cam/Crankshaft you use the same marks, ( I assume the cam shaft sprocket timing marks are offset 10 deg to compensate)
Just been and checked my Haynes manual to ensure I'm not talking S***lol
on the verge of calling the scrapyard to pick it up lol
stat was rubbish put another one in
fan now kicks in
still boils itself :mad:
the only thing left is the headgasket :(
unless anyone has anything else to suggest ?
ok, did you replace the rad cap? cos if it is leaking air pressure slightly, the coolant will boil up.
i assume its been bled thru properly, with the heater on hot. is the temp sender in a decent place on the inj manifold?
and is it misfiring or running flat? and is it actually using coolant?
Mmm not checked the cap tbh
Its not using any coolant
Temp sender is in same place as a carb
It sounds like it running sweet :confused:
rad cap leaking caused me to scrap a car once.. it had boiled up properly, everyone said tstat, so i did, then head gasket, so i did..then as the car had only cost me £100 with a years tax, (15 years ago) i chucked it.. then somebody said, oh the rad caps are always failing on them... it was a rear engined skoda..:(
its worth a look.
ps. after weighing it in & cashing in the tax, i was still ahead on money...
I'll dig out a new cap
Gets very hot after about 5 mins
Is the water pump ok Edd? Is there a good flow around the system? So the fan is kicking in yes? At what temperature? Is it boiling over when the fan is running?
My bad, basic ign timing is 10 deg btdc. I got my 1.3 running the other day, the timing was out and it got very hot. Timing adjusted the fan now kicks in at about half on the gauge :)
I would slacken off the top hose at the front of the engine and pull the hose off slowly see if there is any water in there. Also undo the temp sender on the inlet manifold to see if any water comes out of there. It sounds like an airlock to me.
I'll check the timing with a strobe again
Craig had ask about on mig, says something about different timing settings for 4* fuel and unleaded
http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/engines-transmission/467345-timing-markers-8vs.html#post4466204
Anyone know anything about this ?
you could always set the ignition at 30 degrees at 4000 rpm, thats +20 degrees on the timing gun. Make sure you take the vac advance off. Of all the 1300 engines I have seen they only have 1 notch, it sounds like yours has been changed.
I'll check the timing with a strobe again
Craig had ask about on mig, says something about different timing settings for 4* fuel and unleaded
http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/engines-transmission/467345-timing-markers-8vs.html#post4466204
Anyone know anything about this ?
the factory marks for a 1300 will be for 4* fuel, then you retard it a couple of degrees until it runs cleanly. its basically what we all had to do in about 1988, when unleaded came on the scene & was way cheaper...
:d :d :d :d
FINALLY it is now running spot on with no issues at all
Rad cap seal was a problem, replaced with new cap and no overheating issues now
Fan kicks in at half on the gauge, cooling system operating properly
Craig came round today with strobe gun and set the timing
Big thanks to him and to everybody replying to my threads lol
Edd
Well done mate bet thats a relife its running now.
So whens the first test drive??? :)
Sadly there's still alot to do
No breaks ATM for start, but it is a big step getting it running right
I can now update my project thread now so that should show how much is left to finish it off, it's getting close
novacabrio
19-04-11, 11:22 PM
Ive not read 4 pages of posts as I already know the car is running.
How ever... In these 4 pages, have you at anytime explained the silly way you changed the cam housing lmao!! lol lol lol lol lol lol
Ive not read 4 pages of posts as I already know the car is running.
How ever... In these 4 pages, have you at anytime explained the silly way you changed the cam housing lmao!! lol lol lol lol lol lol
this sounds fun.......
Ive not read 4 pages of posts as I already know the car is running.
How ever... In these 4 pages, have you at anytime explained the silly way you changed the cam housing lmao!! lol lol lol lol lol lol
Thought you were keeping that quiet ? :tard: :eek: lol
Top pikey storey ahead lol
I didn't want to drain coolant or buy a new headgasket :roll:
So I, got a small ratchet strap and looped it up inlet and exhaust mani's, tighten it up
Took head bolts out and swapped the cam housing lol lol lol
Pikey I know
Thought you were keeping that quiet ? :tard: :eek: lol
Top pikey storey ahead lol
I didn't want to drain coolant or buy a new headgasket :roll:
So I, got a small ratchet strap and looped it up inlet and exhaust mani's, tighten it up
Took head bolts out and swapped the cam housing lol lol lol
Pikey I know
Pikey engineering at its best!!lollollollollol
ah the 'its only got to get to the car auction' method.....
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