View Full Version : 1300 first time start up-more problems
After sorting a few other problems it still won't start :(
-it has fuel injection system now working
-cam and crank timed correctly
-no 1 on dizzy cap lined up with rotor arm
-it has spark when plug placed on exhaust mani
-oil pressure has come up a bit
-plugs gapped to 0.6mm
But still won't start ???? :(
It has a Kent ast2 cam with adjustable venier wheel, could this be where the problem lies ?
It has 15 degrees adjustment either way currently set on zero, is this correct ?
The cap and arm are not genuine, is this going to cause any probs ?
After 4 days of tinkering with it I fed up now lol
I would suspect if I towed it and bumped it if might start but as it has no brakes I can't
With it being a newly rebuilt engine I'm suspecting this could also be a problem maybe ?
Any help/ideas/experiences ??? I would really appreciate it
Edd
If you have spark (and compression!) then it must be fuel related...
Are you getting fuel to the rail?
If so, then it should fire - even if teh timing is miles out it will still try and run!
None of teh above things would stop it running (cam etc)
Southie
30-03-11, 08:28 AM
Is anything on this any use for the timing Edd?
http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p379/SOUTHIE01/P26Kentcam.jpg
It's got fuel to the rail, took the rail off and fired fuel out of the injectors to check
I've not checked the compression tbh as I would think that is fine, maybe the next thing to check, engine was rebuilt before me putting it in
Possibly Southie, can't read that on my iPhone tho lol have to wait till I get home at 7pm and use PC
Southie
30-03-11, 09:21 AM
Here are the timing figures for your cam: 36/74 74/36
and inlet timing at full lift: 109 degrees
That will be of some use mate cheers
Going to pick up a compression tester after work but I can't think that is the problem tbh it seems timing related now
is there fuel getting into the chambers? maybe the injectors dont work?
Just an idea
have you put brand new plugs in it?
or tried easystart down the intake to see if the electrics work?
The injectors work I've fired fuel out of them
I've tried a new set of plugs as well
I havnt tried Easy Start tbh, that going to make much of a difference ?
well, if the fuel isn't getting in right, then the easy start will make it fire as long as the spark side is right.
but eliminating the cam timing issue is your first priority.
Going by the crank pulley notch/pointer and the mark on the cam pulley it's timed correctly
I'm a bit stumped with the 30 degrees of adjustment on the pulley tho
Will try some easy start as well
dont go to mad with the easy start the engine will rely on it to start
Royston
30-03-11, 10:48 AM
Edd, not that I am an expert......
When I built my SR engine, I fitted a Holbay 270 (Softish) cam to run on Irmscher inj, as a taller cam can upset the Flapper unit, due to air reverberation in the inlet, although she is still on Sport forties
AST2 is a 290 duration I don't think it will run well, hope it does, but you may have other issues.
Your adjustable Cam gear, should be set to zero, inless you have clocked it in.
dont go to mad with the easy start the engine will rely on it to start
sorry, but that is cobblers, the same as 'you shouldn't give a diesel engine too much Heat'
Royston
30-03-11, 11:10 AM
dont go to mad with the easy start the engine will rely on it to start
I agree, although it takes a while to Shagg the engine (and in general they are badly worn to need it anyway), if it isn't picking up with easy start (whether there's petrol or not) I'd look elsewhere
Royston
30-03-11, 11:13 AM
sorry, but that is cobblers, the same as 'you shouldn't give a diesel engine too much Heat'
Alot of heat and easy start is funny (if you are at home don't try it kidslol )
easy start is also a really good way of knocking out a guard dog, so i'm told...
basically anything to do with ether is fun...
Mmmmmm maybe the cam is not suitable then with the injection system ????
Think I'll easy start then
If I take off the afm and it fires up will this tell me that the cam is not suitable for the injection system ?
can you post up pics of the connector to the afm..
i have a gm diagnostic box for the later jetronic systems, it might fit. if so, i'd lend you it.
i can't see how the cam would have an adverse effect on the running, the injection was invented for competition use.
i reckon there could be a timing issue, have you tried getting someone to turn it over, & moving the dizzy at the same time?
I will get a pic of the afm
I havnt had someone move the dizzy, I've moved it a mill then tried starting it then moved again etc
It tries to start on the turn of the key then nothing :(
I also believe it's probably timing
your not missing some part from the injection system are you.
the injection system, might need certain sensors etc, like AFM, crank sensor? and other bits. do you have all of these?
also, what about getting it running on some 40's and then you know the engine is working timing wise. then put your injection on...
I'm sure everything is fine with the injection system but will check for the 157th time
I don't have a set of 40's laying about to try lol
As I've just bought a house I don't really want to buy some either
I think it's timing related tbh but no idea what lol
Patronising question that I haven't seen asked yet: HT lead order correct? lol
I'm sure everything is fine with the injection system but will check for the 157th time
I don't have a set of 40's laying about to try lol
As I've just bought a house I don't really want to buy some either
I think it's timing related tbh but no idea what lol
It should still pop and bang!
try easy start like said, if it fires then it sounds to be an injection issue
Patronising question that I haven't seen asked yet: HT lead order correct? lol
lol yep checked that about 200 times as well lol
Ill be home from work in a hour so I will try things again :roll: lol
i thought you had every part going lol.
and another stupid idea, you havent left some tape over the inlets since it was rebuilt and your just pumping fuel into the tape lol.
Southie
30-03-11, 06:13 PM
Just a thought Edd did the injection setup work okay when you bought it?
Also maybe try adding some extra earth straps around the alternator and main earths, if it's anything like usual injection setups it may need more fitting.
I do have a nice collection of parts lol but no carbs lol
Plugs are getting wet so no tape across the inlet lol
It's a nightmare really after months of work on it I now can't get it to start, I didn't expect it to fire straight up, but I thought it be running by now :(
edd, you have my sympathy on this. when my e16se wasn't working, yet everything separately was ok, it was driving me potty...... but out of frustration, when i'd flattened the battery, i threw everything on it while it was charging, so it now works & i still don't know why or how it was or wasn't working..
craig green
30-03-11, 06:19 PM
When its cranking it sounds like it is almost catching & firing. We found the cam was about 70 degrees off (school boy error with the vernier) & when corrected really sounded better for it, but it just wont catch. Going by all the stuff we/he has checked over & narrowed down, I think it's the cam, though I dont know the specs but I have read about people fitting aftermarket camshafts & not getting them running on std injection in the past.
Just to clarify, it has a spark, has fuel from the injectors when cranking & from the resitance/noise from the engine when turned over - has compression. Off to get my comp tester in a sec anyway.
its not damaged the followers has it???
Southie
30-03-11, 06:21 PM
Just another thought is your battery brand new, cannot remember if you've said this already lol
Once you've got the timing setup properly we can all take it from there mate ;)
Just a thought Edd did the injection setup work okay when you bought it?
Also maybe try adding some extra earth straps around the alternator and main earths, if it's anything like usual injection setups it may need more fitting.
Both injection systems were in cardboard boxes lol when I got them so no real way of knowing if they were working or not
I've tried swapping ecu, afm, icv, tps it makes no difference :(
Im now thinking that the plugs ain't sparking when in the head ?
Is this possible ?
Battery is new
Plugs are new, the others were wet fouled
But the have a spark when touched on the exhaust mani ?
F lol Craig, for confirming my school boy error, in my defence it was easily done lol
Tbh I feel at a dead ATM, mowgli, cheers for the sympathy I need it :(lol
Southie
30-03-11, 07:47 PM
Another thing Edd as I don't know about the injection setup on your irschmer do you get fault codes on them?
Pistol Pete
30-03-11, 07:59 PM
Check the compression. I did this last when my XE ran ****e. It was a last resort as we had exhausted all other possibilities. Cylinder 3 had no compression. Broken valve was the cause. Not wanting to add to your worries, just check it. You can tick it off the list when the results come back as 100%.
Hope you get it sorted.
If the cam was 70Deg out ate you sure you haven't had some valve piston contact? is the 1.3 safe? I'd check what compression you have :)
kevster
30-03-11, 08:08 PM
i thought they were valve clear the little 1300 , sound's like a week spark or fuel , had to say with out looking .
hope you get it sorted
i thought they were valve clear the little 1300 , sound's like a week spark or fuel , had to say with out looking .
hope you get it sorted
Kev they may well be valve clear with a standard cam but not with a high lift one!
When the cam was 70 degrees out I wound the engine over by hand about 10 times and there was no valve piston contact
I have a gauge now to check compression
What reading should I be getting ?
kevster
30-03-11, 08:55 PM
Kev they may well be valve clear with a standard cam but not with a high lift one!
ok !! high lift cam on standerd interal's is not wise is it ?
kevster
30-03-11, 08:56 PM
I wound the engine over by hand about 10 times and there was no valve piston contact
i was just going to ask if you had turned it by hand
I wound the engine over by hand about 10 times and there was no valve piston contact
i was just going to ask if you had turned it by hand
Sorry mate didnt meant that to sound like you dont know what your on about. ;) :thumb:
ok. Well what results do you have?
kevster
30-03-11, 09:21 PM
Sorry mate didnt meant that to sound like you dont know what your on about. ;) :thumb:
it's cool fella i have it every day lol
Pistol Pete
30-03-11, 09:50 PM
When the cam was 70 degrees out I wound the engine over by hand about 10 times and there was no valve piston contact
I have a gauge now to check compression
What reading should I be getting ?
4 that are all close or the same to each other. Sorry, dont know exact figures.
Edd id say 150psi upwards for a good strong bottom end.
I'll do the test tomorrow and report back, too tired after 12 hour shift to do it now
Done a compression test
All readings were 200
well that means either the engine is perfect or the tester is shagged.
i think it rules out compression as a problem
Well after tinkering again for a few hours I've given up
I'm now thinking the cam maybe the problem
As Craig surgested I'm considering seeing my mate a vaux and getting the tool that enables me to take the cam out without changing the head gasket, and put a standard one in
Surely tho it would still fire up with the AST2 in there ?
It's a good job I havnt got a short fuse otherwise I would of took a axe to it by now lol
its a pity you are in bandit country (eg. Jack, Lee & Hobbit) & about 2 1/2hrs drive from me.. the missus would castrate me if i announced a road trip to attempt to mend another nova......
Well after tinkering again for a few hours I've given up
I'm now thinking the cam maybe the problem
As Craig surgested I'm considering seeing my mate a vaux and getting the tool that enables me to take the cam out without changing the head gasket, and put a standard one in
Surely tho it would still fire up with the AST2 in there ?
It's a good job I havnt got a short fuse otherwise I would of took a axe to it by now lol
stuff the tool, just wip it off and put the other casing back on, you shouldnt need to lift the actual head, and the bolts will be fine! lol.
stuff the tool, just wip it off and put the other casing back on, you shouldnt need to lift the actual head, and the bolts will be fine! lol.
right!... the tool is nothing special.. it is simply a threaded thing to wind the lifter down, and it is attached to the carrier by means of the m6 cover bolts....i'd imagine you could find something to push them down with, but the injection shouldn't be too affected by the cam.
what about the tps & the afm? are they giving variable resistance readings?
I would prefer to use the tool tbh, once head bolts have been used there useless, I could be pikey I suppose and use them and the gasket again as the engine hasn't run yet
Changing the cam is the last resort tbh as I can't see that it would stop it starting
I will pick some Easy Start up in the morning after I finish work
With using Easy Start, is it not going to need it everytime I want to start it tho?
I that don't work I will try another spare AFM and TPS and report back
The only good thing to happen today is I've sorted some Audi Quattro Ronal wheels ET 45 :)
Royston
31-03-11, 06:26 PM
Shame you don't live nearer, as I have a franklyn cam changing kit, used it to change the Sport cam:roll:
Not as if Rory's up soon either Edd, you should also know he's moved to Bridgewaterlol lol lol
Is it actually firing at all? I'm not up on the injection set ups is there a dizzy, if so could there be a "amplifier" that had blown?
It is firing, very strong spark from all plugs when put on exhaust mani stud
Southie
31-03-11, 07:43 PM
Did you try extra earth straps Edd?
As regards to the cam, if yours isn't suitable what isn't working right and what damage could it be doing?
I didn't try the extra straps yet mate
Swapping the loom, Afm and tps is the next thing to try although I'm confident that is ok but you never know
I dont think the cam is doing any damage as such, there's no chance of munching valves
Tbh this problem is very very frustrating :(
I'll try everything before the cam swap
Southie
31-03-11, 07:55 PM
Another thought lol Is your injection immobilised, probably too early for that but just a thought.
Have you tried contacting Duick at all, iirc he has the same setup as you've got so maybe worth a brainstorm with him :)
I pm'd duick, the problem is that his Irmscher injection was done from factory on his Spider, so it plugs in and all the loom is taped up
This is the same when I asked Mark/novacabrio :(
No immobiliser lol
Novasport
31-03-11, 08:45 PM
If you take the AST2 back out Edd I will have it back off you ;)
Hope it gets sorted.
Royston mentioned a while ago that fast road cams don't run well with injection due to the pulsing it creates. Dont know how true that is.
Tbh Rich it's looking more likely by the day that the cam will have to be swapped, anyway it's deffo not going to be suitable when the turbo stuff is fitted, so I'll keep you posted
But I would of thought it should start up but run crap ?
Royston did post earlier in the thread that I might have problems :(
Royston
31-03-11, 08:58 PM
But I would of thought it should start up but run crap ?:(
I must admit I expected it to fire up but not run well.
You say the plugs spark OK out of the engine, is it sparking when in?
Do you know anyone with a colourtune kit, the glass plug would let you see if it's sparking under compression, it could be part if the ignition breaking down under load.
On a similar note my Range Rover V8 stopped running, it too would spark the plugs no problem in air, when in the engine the spark went to earth via the rotor arm, and therefore wouldn't run, tokk me ages to find:mad:
Southie
31-03-11, 09:01 PM
If the cam is the problem then how does it work? What's the difference to the original cam besides maybe different profile, I'm confused by all this myself so if someone could enlighten me I would be happy lol
yellowsrnova
31-03-11, 09:03 PM
only problem i had with my sri was the earth strap at the battray and amp !
i know am not helping
similer set up isn't it
cause your cars freshly painted did you sand around and in the holes for earthing ?
I must admit I expected it to fire up but not run well.
You say the plugs spark OK out of the engine, is it sparking when in?
Do you know anyone with a colourtune kit, the glass plug would let you see if it's sparking under compression, it could be part if the ignition breaking down under load.
On a similar note my Range Rover V8 stopped running, it too would spark the plugs no problem in air, when in the engine the spark went to earth via the rotor arm, and therefore wouldn't run, tokk me ages to find:mad:
Apart from the colourtune kit, is there anyway I can test if the plug is sparking when in the engine ?
Will easy start do this ?
What could cause the plug not to spark inside the engine ?
Southie
31-03-11, 09:07 PM
Another thought :) What fuel pump is needed for your car? Do you have a pump on the engine or have you fitted a GTE style pump?
Probably picking at straws but all questions help lol
either the plugs are shot, or the ht circuit isn't working, so coil, leads, dizzy, rotor arm, cap. etc.. is it running on the delco dizzy? if yes, then is there something clever with the advance vacuum?
Royston
31-03-11, 09:08 PM
If the cam is the problem then how does it work? What's the difference to the original cam besides maybe different profile, I'm confused by all this myself so if someone could enlighten me I would be happy lol
My understanding, which I believe is correct, is that the long duration and lift on high performance cams creates air pressure fluctuations in the inlet tract that upset the Flapper in the air flow meter.
Unfortunately I cannot remember the source of this information:roll:
but looking up the mouth of the intake would show that up, and the plenum should solve most issues.
only problem i had with my sri was the earth strap at the battray and amp !
i know am not helping
similer set up isn't it
cause your cars freshly painted did you sand around and in the holes for earthing ?
I havnt sanded the area that the battery earth goes too, I have a little on the earth strap that goes from the gearbox to chassis, don't want to ruin the paint really tho
I guess that's another thing to check
If the gearbox earth strap is not that good is it going to stop the plugs sparking in the head ?
Maybe I should of already tried Southies idea of extra earth straps
Royston
31-03-11, 09:13 PM
What could cause the plug not to spark inside the engine ?
Ignition circuit breaking down.
When the spark plug is installed and at full compression it is harder for the spark to jump across the gap.
Regularly come across this on LPG vehicles on the v8 forum, normally "hear it runs OK on petrol but not on LPG", this is because the octane rating (resistance to ignition/combustion) is @110 on LPG and 95-99 for petrol.
i.e. spark is OK for petrol ignition but too weak for LPG
Another thought :) What fuel pump is needed for your car? Do you have a pump on the engine or have you fitted a GTE style pump?
Probably picking at straws but all questions help lol
A new tank and new Walbro pump is fitted
It's deffo getting fuel but I have thought for a couple of days that maybe the plugs arnt sparking when in the head
either the plugs are shot, or the ht circuit isn't working, so coil, leads, dizzy, rotor arm, cap. etc.. is it running on the delco dizzy? if yes, then is there something clever with the advance vacuum?
It's running a acDelco dizzy
I fitted a genuine cap and arm today as well
So even if it has spark the dizzy could be fooked ?
I have a spare I could try
I must say thanks everybody for the replies it all helps very much
Southie
31-03-11, 09:19 PM
I know I keep saying it but earths, try an extra one near your alternator and one direct from the main earth feed to where your gearbox earth is, only temporary mind but may get it started and when it does you'll know what it is and you can reroute the earths so they don't look shiit in the bay ;)
yellowsrnova
31-03-11, 09:20 PM
build up of paint in the holes
but usually when you screw the bolts in it stipes the the paint back !
you have a opel corsa 130i loom diagram ?
you should leave the cam at standard lift till running than set it up
weel just don't ajusted it
Southie
31-03-11, 09:22 PM
Yellowsr, are you saying that he's best leaving it tdc then?
Just a earth strap between a hoist point and the neg of the battery.
Easy start (or similar kinda stuff) would show up if its just not the right mix, Its deffo worth a try as it might just fire once and then petrol take over.
I could just get the scrapyard to pick it up that would be the easiest solution lol
Southie
31-03-11, 09:29 PM
Well it is a shiity old Nova so I agree lol
yellowsrnova
31-03-11, 09:29 PM
! point to point on the pully
might help
yellowsrnova
31-03-11, 09:30 PM
get 40s for it easier ;)
The timing is 100% spot on now lol
Tdc, pointer lined up with notch and cam pulley lined up with point on the cam belt cover
get 40s for it easier ;)
Don't want 40's lol
I want my turbo bits in there if I get ever get it to run
Southie
31-03-11, 09:38 PM
C20LET gen lol
The timing is 100% spot on now lol
Tdc, pointer lined up with notch and cam pulley lined up with point on the cam belt cover
is there by any chance, 2 or more sensors with the same plug shape that might have been crossed???
Southie
31-03-11, 09:44 PM
is there by any chance, 2 or more sensors with the same plug shape that might have been crossed???
Good thought actually, are the crank sensor and the cam sensor similar fittings?
i doubt there is a crank sensor... how does it sense? is it off the dizzy?
Royston
31-03-11, 09:48 PM
There is no crank sensor, wire off the coil to detect / set injector timing
There is no crank sensor, wire off the coil to detect / set injector timing
hmmm.... food for thought... back the ign timing off a bit then.
Plan of action is
-try some easy start
-sort another earth for engine
-swap loom and sensors
-try tinkering with the ing timing
Anyone with anything to add please do
Fit a carb ?lol
Sorry edd, good luck though hope it goes soon :)
1. get the battery right fully charged....
2. seriously, be prepared to swing the dizzy some massive amount.. it might just shock it into working
3. sorry, but re check the efi wiring one last time...
Royston
31-03-11, 10:20 PM
Plan of action is
-go get a beer
-chill
-have a good nights rest
-have another go tomorrow with a fresh mind
Anyone with anything to add please do
You said you had another distributor, might be worth a spin
I'm sure you'll get there in the end, I have faith;)
craig green
31-03-11, 10:48 PM
Plan of action is
-try some easy start
-sort another earth for engine
-swap loom and sensors
-try tinkering with the ing timing
Anyone with anything to add please do
Swap out that ghey Kent cam FFS. :roll:
^^^^^ F lol think I'll have to tbh mate
One thing I did notice today was that TDC does not quite line up with the pointer and notch on the crank pulley, should I set it to TDC or on the pointer/notch ?????
do you have a factory cam pulley? if so, then time it up as per haynes..
Yep got one of them, think I'll fit it
Was just thinking wether it had to be at TDC looking through the spark plug hole or on the pointer/notch ?
go with factory settings for a start.. once it runs, start playing.
craig green
31-03-11, 11:26 PM
I think my Dad has a colourtune kit Edd (whatever it is). I'll speak with him as he is a bit of a mechanical wizard as you know, though electronic injection scares him back onto Amal carbs.... But engine fundamentals are straight forward enough.
Bare metal your earths (vaseline after to keep out moisture) & check the coil bracket is nicely earthed through the inner wing too (just a thought).
Re the cam, its not a matter of it should run, maybe badly, but if it is causing the airflow into the chambers to be way out of the parameters the AFM is looking for the ECU is probably not capable of understanding the signals its getting.....
The other issue that occurs to me is that of the idle screw & its channel in the TB. I guess you havent touched it but if its blocked or closed there is no air getting past the TB when the throttle butterfly is closed.
I'll have another look at it tomorrow when I get up in the afternoon and let you know mate
Cam swap won't happen till weekend tho as I'll be cained from nights
Thanks again everyone for their imput :thumb: I'll report back
craig green
31-03-11, 11:45 PM
I think it's worth verifying with 1300 owners on here what they think the firing order is & ideally get a pic of the leads on the dizzy numbered with the lead/cyl no, incase the Haynes diagram is wrong, imagine that!
Good point Craig
As this post here
http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1804634&postcount=2
Is different than the Haynes :confused:
Good point Craig
As this post here
http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1804634&postcount=2
Is different than the Haynes :confused:
if you look at it from the dizzy end, top right is 1, then you should view it as 1342 anti clockwise.
..............1
.........3......
................2
...........4
rough yet effective..
Colourtune kit is like a clear spark plug, used for setting up carbs so you can see the colour of the combustion process. Never seen one in person but they sound like rather cool bits of kit.
:d :d :d :d :d
It runs !!!!
-Got the dremel out bare metalled all earths
-swapped eBay coil for a old genuine one
-swapped AFM for another one
-sprayed in some Easy Start
-played with dizzy
Very very happy
Big thanks to Craig for giving me a hand
But it still won't tick over with foot off I think due to the cam :roll:
Thanks everybody for the help
Edd
Royston
02-04-11, 07:03 PM
Please to hear it's burst into life:thumb:
I did warn you about the cam;)
Hopefully you can work it out from there.
If you went aftermarket engine management you could ditch the afm and with ignition control could make it run;) I suppose you will be going that way anyway when you turbo it:d
I do try and be helpful
craig green
02-04-11, 07:48 PM
Hearing it fire up was excellent. The lifters were noisy for quite a long time but have quietened down now.
The last week or so has been full of ups & downs mate!
Southie
02-04-11, 07:57 PM
Good news Edd, I expect a delivery then lol
Is the timing okay for your cam though? Did you set it up on the verniers to the settings I posted?
Will have a little more of a play with it all on Monday
If I can't get it to idle I will swap the cam, going by the sound of it the cam is very lairy lol
Will update my project thread as well soon
As Craig said it's been fun and games lol
Especially when all the paint starting burning off the 4 branch lol
Novasport
02-04-11, 09:54 PM
Glad you have got it started.
I always remember my mates Sport, A13SPT had an AST2 in it and that was lumpy as hell.
Used to lurch when in slow traffic.
Hearing it fire up was excellent. The lifters were noisy for quite a long time but have quietened down now.
The last week or so has been full of ups & downs mate!
it was probably the dry lifters that caused the most trouble...
it was probably the dry lifters that caused the most trouble...
would i be right in saying your supposed to prime hydrolic lifters with oil when refitting? or is that an old wifes tale?
craig green
03-04-11, 02:07 AM
Priming the lifters is something I thought of, but a bit tricky to do when the lump is built, I've never found it a problem other than the noise tbh.
I've no idea what we did that made it go, but another AFM, another (old coil) earthed to the wing better & general mess about got it running. It still needs tweaking but its firing for a change. :d
As Craig said it's been fun and games lol
Especially when all the paint starting burning off the 4 branch lol
Yeah that was 'smokey Joe' time. Do Ashley 4-branches usually lose their paint in the 1st 5 mins of running?
Royston
03-04-11, 08:13 AM
Every new manifold I have had has smoked, and depainted itself
would i be right in saying your supposed to prime hydrolic lifters with oil when refitting? or is that an old wifes tale?
plugs out & a lot of cranking it over... never refill the lifters with oil when fitting.
Priming the lifters is something I thought of, but a bit tricky to do when the lump is built, I've never found it a problem other than the noise tbh.
I've no idea what we did that made it go, but another AFM, another (old coil) earthed to the wing better & general mess about got it running. It still needs tweaking but its firing for a change. :d
Yeah that was 'smokey Joe' time. Do Ashley 4-branches usually lose their paint in the 1st 5 mins of running?
Last one i fitted did the same, standing there thinking what the f......
Well done Edd and Craig for getting it running.
C612DNM
03-04-11, 09:30 AM
It reminds me of my Merc Sprinter - that wouldn't fire after a rebuild. Checked everything, found a few things, but still wouldn't fire. Then put BIG boost starter on it and it would over that little bit faster, the hydraulic followers obviously primed and it fired up. I was on it for days, had the injector pump off and re-timed it half a dozen times, bled the injectors loads of times.
I've probably say that the dry lifters were most of the problem.
Still, it's done now!! Good stuff.
Pistol Pete
03-04-11, 10:43 AM
plugs out & a lot of cranking it over... never refill the lifters with oil when fitting.
What he said.
Did this with mine prior to its first start up.Did it the other day aswell. It had been sat for3months not started, so just as a precaution, king lead off, cranked it then fired her up. Purred like a kitten!
Glad you got it running Edd. Good job!
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