C20XE Sump Gasket Change..

[Mucker_TD]

Hi guys, my sump is off including the baffle plate, the only question i have is where can i order the 2 Cork type gaskets from?

I have a new Rubber sump gasket ready to fit, but as ive taken the old ones off ive noticed 2 cork type gaskets fitted.

Is there some sort of mod you can do to stop these leaking oil?

Looking to put this back together tomorrow (23/03/11) so any help is much appreciated.

Matt

[mowgli]

as with all sump gaskets, clean the inside of the block as much as possible to stop the odd drop of oil sliding down to make a mess of the sealant. then use some very good sealant. also make sure the faces are clean as poss..

[Mucker_TD]

Many thanks, ive been recommended to get some GM sealant from vauxhall. I have cleaned all faces as much as possible, in which order do i fit these parts?

from top to bottom is it:

(Engine)
sealant
Baffle plate
Rubber gasket
Sealant
(Sump)

[Pistol Pete]

No^ Just sealant alone between the block and the baffle plate will still give you a leak IMO.

8v baffle plate is what you want. Has a rubber gasket bonded each side. Proper job!

[Paul]

Yeh 8V baffle.

About £30 for a decent one.

[Mazz]

I think i'm gonna put this link in my sig!

http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/Gotchas_LET.htm#sumpleaks

[mowgli]

looking at that linky, it is remarkable how similar the gm stuff is, i rebuilt an isuzu diesel in a 6t excavator & that had the same sort of rubber type gasket.. but why would gm replace a perfectly good item with an inferior product? surely not on cost grounds

[Stuart]

looking at that linky, it is remarkable how similar the gm stuff is, i rebuilt an isuzu diesel in a 6t excavator & that had the same sort of rubber type gasket.. but why would gm replace a perfectly good item with an inferior product? surely not on cost grounds


wont be the first or last time an OEM replaces a part with a crappier part.... ensures return business and cheaper parts to add a bigger markup to.

Take the Z22se oil filter as an example.
18 months ago, Oil filter and Seal = £4
12 months ago, Oil filter = £4 and seal = £4.
They worked out that you only 'needed' to change the seal every 2-3 oil changes, cooonts, and the new seal is shockingly bad when its just a simple O ring.

[Austin_Nova16]

The baffle (wantage) plate with bonded seal you can get from autovaux.

I've found Weldseal to be the best sealing product for sumps rocker cover gaskets and all in between. :thumb:

[Mucker_TD]

Can anybody confirm that this is the correct part to finally stop this sump leaking...

http://www.autovaux.co.uk/LoadPortal.aspx?cnum=84&pnum=AS90528632&tabid=5&vnum=174

[Mieran]

Thats the one.

Can't believe I went to Vauxhall and paid over 30 for one lol

[Mucker_TD]

Thats the one.

Can't believe I went to Vauxhall and paid over 30 for one lol

Well by the time vat is added and posted its near on £30 anyway!

Would you recommend any gasket sealant to be used or none at all? Also i know it sounds anal but what sort of torque setting should be sump bolts be tightened up to? I just dont want to overtighten and pinch the gasket.

[Benn]

RTV sealant is the one you want.

You'll need sorter bolts when using the baffle in the link you've posted (some come with them) you need m6x20mm.

You can get the baffle from Vauxhall for 27.99 with trade club. Or most motor factors can get them. Sam with the sealant.

Where in hants are you from?

[Mucker_TD]

RTV sealant is the one you want.

You'll need sorter bolts when using the baffle in the link you've posted (some come with them) you need m6x20mm.

You can get the baffle from Vauxhall for 27.99 with trade club. Or most motor factors can get them. Sam with the sealant.

Where in hants are you from?

Ive ordered that baffle plate but it says nothing about bolts being included with it. I need to get all the bits sorted by wednesday next week as thats when i plan to replace it (again!).

Im near Ringwood in hampshire, heres the nova in question:

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p260/Bifter_69/Redtop.jpg

[Austin_Nova16]

Ahhh...my mates old one that is I believe. Get it from Sussex?

[nova_saloon]

never seen torque settings as anal, there there for a reason, and it give precise pressure across the gasket, and not crimping it to much to cause leaking and not doing it up loose enough to leak. always torque

[Johnny A]

8v sump, rtv and torqued correctly worked for me, not leaked at all since.... until the oil pump seal failed... cock

[Mazz]

I didn't use any sealer on mine, just cleaned all the faces and torqued it up and its bone dry!

[Mucker_TD]

Ahhh...my mates old one that is I believe. Get it from Sussex?

Yh I'm pretty sure it was over that way. Having had time to properly look at it, it needs a few bits doing to it before I'm satisfied putting it on the road again.

I'm in two minds about whether to use sealant aswell, grr!

Where do I find the torque setting for the sump bolts?

[Benn]

the book says just use sealant over the oil pump and crank join. Whuch is all i do. You need to buy 12iirc bolts in m6x20mm. toqure wise i just do it up in a star paton.

[anotherwhitenova]

Try Autovaux mate, they do an 8v baffle plate and gasket.

[Mucker_TD]

Try Autovaux mate, they do an 8v baffle plate and gasket.

That's where I've ordered it from mate, also going to permanently borrow the m6x20mm bolts from work :)

Thanks for all the help, I will keep you updated

[Mucker_TD]

Quick update... 8 valve baffle plate now fitted but found a leak that looks like its coming from the oil filter housing area, could this be possible or is it more likely to be something else leaking? its on the drivers side of the engine, towards the back of it near the filter housing?

Any replies again much appreciated.

[Damo]

It could be either the oil pressure switch or worse the oil pump gasket.

[Mucker_TD]

It could be either the oil pressure switch or worse the oil pump gasket.

Oh dear, ok well are there any links or photos as to the position or even removal procedures to these two parts?

[Benn]

Sounds more like the oil pump gasket. But it isn't hard to change. But will want the sump off really..

[Damo]

As benn says mate sump needs to come off and the cambelt backplate then is pretty straight forward and self explanatory.

[Mucker_TD]

Cheers fellas, I'm tempted to take it up to PVS at the pod so going to aim to have it back on the road for then. I will strip it down once again, also thinking about ripping the motor out and starting from scratch as it needs a few bits doing and have no proof of the last cambelt change.

C20xe engine removal isn't too painstaking from a nova is it?

[Damo]

No mate pretty straight forward you can do the cambelt whilst the engines in there mate pretty easily tbh save ripping it out.

[Mucker_TD]

Ok cheers, I've got a set of GAZ adjustable height and damping coilovers on it at the moment but would rather go back to a shock and spring set up. Looking to go around 50-60mm all round, is there a good combination of shock and spring bearing in mind the weight of the c20xe in the front? I want it to be slightly stiffer than when a car is standard, but also being still very drivable.

What do you recommend?

[Austin_Nova16]

My bets on the Oil Pressure switch as Damo says.
Has happened to me a couple of times... it leaks out of the plug.

[mowgli]

Cheers fellas, I'm tempted to take it up to PVS at the pod so going to aim to have it back on the road for then. I will strip it down once again, also thinking about ripping the motor out and starting from scratch as it needs a few bits doing and have no proof of the last cambelt change.

C20xe engine removal isn't too painstaking from a nova is it?

for gods sake change the belt before going to the pod......

[Benn]

Xe removal is easy.

[Mucker_TD]

Hmmm, rather tempted to rip it out and start from scratch, does anybody have any contact details of the fella who did the conversion?

Is he on png?