Stoping the flywheel from moving?

[gunner1x1]

Can anyone tell me if there is another tool like this for the Nova 1.2 1989 G reg. Because this one states that it is for a 1.2 with a aluminium oil pan, and I do not think that my car has this type of oil pan.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Sealey-Flywheel-Holding-Tool-Vauxhall-EcoTec-VS1282-/290481599522?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item43a20d7422

I would be grateful for any advice

Cheers

Mike

[GRUNT 16V]

try this one
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Draper-30830-Expert-Universal-Flywheel-Locking-Tool-/370459441293?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item56411a788d

[mowgli]

can't you just stick it in gear & use a lump of wood from the drivers seat to wedge the brakes solid?

[gunner1x1]

try this one
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Draper-30830-Expert-Universal-Flywheel-Locking-Tool-/370459441293?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item56411a788d

Thanks for the link. Can you give me a rough idea where this fit's. Do I actually take the flywheel cover off and install it there, or do I fit it somewhere else?

Mowgli wrote

Can't you just stick it in gear & use a lump of wood from the drivers seat to wedge the brakes solid?

I have tried this already. I got my mate to put it in gear and stand on the brakes while I turned the bolt, and all that happened was the notches and pointer moved, with no chance of undoing the bolt.

By the way now that the notch/notch and notch/pointer have moved do I just it round until they are opposite each other, and then check the rotor in the distributor cap is pointing to the number 1 lead, or is something else I have to do?

Cheers

Mike

[mowgli]

ok, there are timing marks on the cam pulley & the crank pulley. i assume the crank pulley bolt is stuck?? it is right hand thread and really tight as a rule. get him to stick it in first or reverse. jack it up & remove the right hand wheel & support it well on stands, get loads of socket extensions & another stand or a lump of wood so you can support the extensions, then using a large breaker bar, with your mate on the brakes, jump on the bloody thing. that will undo it.

[gunner1x1]

ok, there are timing marks on the cam pulley & the crank pulley. i assume the crank pulley bolt is stuck?? it is right hand thread and really tight as a rule. get him to stick it in first or reverse. jack it up & remove the right hand wheel & support it well on stands, get loads of socket extensions & another stand or a lump of wood so you can support the extensions, then using a large breaker bar, with your mate on the brakes, jump on the bloody thing. that will undo it.

Hi mate I tried the above and if I did not know better I would think that it was welded together because it just keeps on moving with no sign of the bolt coming loose. Is there anything else I can do?

Cheers

Mike

[nova-taken]

i always find a good screwdriver works, stick it between the teeth of the flywheel and turn it until it locks itself up

major bodge, but never failed me

[mowgli]

when you look at the bolt from the rhs of the car, you are trying to undo it anti-clockwise, aren't you?

[gunner1x1]

when you look at the bolt from the rhs of the car, you are trying to undo it anti-clockwise, aren't you?

Yes that's right.

Cheers

Mike

[bazil]

I've heard of the really pikey and unsafe method of long bar touching the ground and starting the engine!!

Not big and not clever,

[Nobby]

I've heard of the really pikey and unsafe method of long bar touching the ground and starting the engine!!

Not big and not clever,

done it and it works! haha

however you need to lock the flywheel up on really only way your going to do it, is there an inspection plate undernath the box you can take off to get at the flywheel? i have a snap on 1/2 battery good so i never have these problems!! :thumb:

[nova_saloon]

jam something in the crank and turn

[mowgli]

get some heat into the bolt to loosen the loctite

[General Baxter]

or just get an air gun, off in 3 seconds lol

[Lewis.]

or just get an air gun, off in 3 seconds lol


this




putting it in gear and holding the brakes on doesn't usually work, as there is so much wind up in the gearbox and clutch that you get a full turn before anything happens. struggled for ages on my old astra van, in the end i just fetched my impact wrench home from work lol

[gunner1x1]

While I pull my hair out trying to get the timimg belt off can you guys help me with a couple more questions.

While trying to do the above the notch/notch and notch/pointer are not aligned with each other anymore. So what do I do now, do I just turn the crankshaft bolt until their aligned again, checking with the distributor that the number 1 is on the firing stroke or have I caused a bigger problem now?

There is a tool I can use on the Nova but only if it has a aliminium oil pan. Did G reg Nova's have this form of pan?

If I get a tool to hold the flywheel in place where is the best access to it? Is it through the clutch access cover?

Cheers

Mike

[mowgli]

when you time it up, just realign the top & bottom marks to their notches. then it is a case of popping the belt on & tightening it up. the water pump usually fails when you do this, so its best to get a new one.

no nova petrol cars had an ally sump as std.

where are you from? can't you drag it to a local garage and tell them to undo it with the wind gun

[gunner1x1]

when you time it up, just realign the top & bottom marks to their notches. then it is a case of popping the belt on & tightening it up. the water pump usually fails when you do this, so its best to get a new one.

no nova petrol cars had an ally sump as std.

where are you from? can't you drag it to a local garage and tell them to undo it with the wind gun

Yes I have got a new water pump

Here you go http://www.concepttools.co.uk/p/AST-FLYWHEEL-HOLDING-TOOL-4270.aspx it is'nt just this site that mentions the ally pan, yet I have never heard of it before:roll:

I am up in Scotland, and I have an impact wrench on my compressor,but the Haynes manual recormends that I have to use a tool to stop the flywheel from moving.

Cheers

Mike

[meritlover]

.....but the Haynes manual recormends.......



There's your problem.....

[bazil]

rattle the buzz gun into the fooker lol

whur aboots are you in scotchland?

[Lewis.]

that tool is for the later engines mate, not yours. (eco=wreck)

first things first: burn the haynes manual.

then time the engine up, get your impact wrench out and undo the bolt. there is no need at all to lock the crank with a gun, as it applies very little rotational force, it just undoes it.

[Pistol Pete]

Nothing wrong with Haynes manuals IMO. Just need to take the info with a LARGE pinch of salt. Useful for torque settings etc.

RE: flywheel, i always jam a screw driver in the teeth. Hasnt failed me once.

[meritlover]

i always jam a screw driver in the teeth.

i used to do that but my dentist told me not to.

[Edd]

Nothing wrong with Haynes manuals IMO. Just need to take the info with a LARGE pinch of salt. Useful for torque settings etc.

RE: flywheel, i always jam a screw driver in the teeth. Hasnt failed me once.

haynes is ok :thumb:

large flat blade in the fly wheel always works for me

[gunner1x1]

While I pull my hair out trying to get the timimg belt off can you guys help me with a couple more questions.

While trying to do the above the notch/notch and notch/pointer are not aligned with each other anymore. So what do I do now, do I just turn the crankshaft bolt until their aligned again, checking with the distributor that the number 1 is on the firing stroke or have I caused a bigger problem now?

There is a tool I can use on the Nova but only if it has a aliminium oil pan. Did G reg Nova's have this form of pan?

If I get a tool to hold the flywheel in place where is the best access to it? Is it through the clutch access cover?

Cheers

Mike

[mowgli]

page 2 is that way
<--------------

it doesn't matter how many times you ask, you need to do what we said, then it will time up dead easy on the 2 notches..

[gunner1x1]

Guilty mate, if you want to punish me I am partial to being whipped with a soggy fag paperlol

Seriously, anything that can cause damage to the valves and or pistons has me worried:O :O But I should take your advise step by step.

I'll get out and give it ago in the morning.

Cheers

Mike

[Bubba]

gas axe it off...

[Spudly]

Off-topic.....






i used to do that but my dentist told me not to.





Meritlover are alive:eek:



Have another blob of greenfulness for your return:thumb:

[Benn]

I've had probs with this before, so this time i bought a pair of locking tool, bolts thru the gearbox bolt holds and locks the flywheel from moving.

I've always tried jamming the teeth with screw drivers before. Which can be a c**t. Locking tools ftw.

[mowgli]

Guilty mate, if you want to punish me I am partial to being whipped with a soggy fag paperlol

Seriously, anything that can cause damage to the valves and or pistons has me worried:O :O But I should take your advise step by step.

I'll get out and give it ago in the morning.

Cheers

Mike

a 1200 engine is hard to kill. & manually rotating it will not actually cause damage to the valves or pistons...

i had a cambelt strip at 85mph once... fitted a new one & carried on.

[Andy]

Heres an alternative method.
Drain coolant and oil.Run on full revs til it boils over and seizes solid.
Spray a generous amount of wd40 on the flywheel bolts.Give it a good yuk with a bar on the end of your breaker bar.
Finish with a cup of tetleys and a rizla full of Samson's finest.........................................












lol

[mowgli]

you might be onto something there.....

[Rich]

have you taken the belt off the top pully yet? if not, put a breaker on the bottom bolt, rest it against the floor so its pointing to the front of the car, crank engine and off it comes!

only a quick crank is needed

[gunner1x1]

Thanks a lot guys it come off this morning. I soaked it in WD40 and then took a 3 foot jack handle, put it over the end of a wrench and put all my weight on it, and pop it came loose.

After putting the new belt on do I set notches and pointer now or later, and do I turn these clockwise.

Is there any other tips about putting the lot back on after fitting a new head gasket, as I have done?

Thanks again everyone.

Cheers

Mike

[mowgli]

you put the belt on the bottom pulley, then refit the alternator belt pulley to the locating tab, then you can see the bottom timing mark. then you line up the top pulley to its mark, and then fit the belt, making sure there is no slack on the radiator side of the engine, then use the water pump to tension it all.

[gunner1x1]

Thanks for your help Mowgli.

Cheers

Mike

[gunner1x1]

:confused: How thick can you be, or should I say how thick can I ucking be:tard:
After doing the above I tried to get both notches on the top, and the notch and pointer below setup right, but when I set the top, the bottom was well out and no where near the correct setting. And when the bottom was correct the top was out.
So with some armature reasoning that both pulleys would move independently, and so I could correct the one that was out I made sure that the top was setup properly, removed the belt, and set the bottom up:tard: :cry:

Then it hit me how the hell do I know if both 1 and 4 are raising and lowering together?? The manual states that if you remove the dizzy cap and the rotor is pointing at the number 1 lead, the number 1 plug and not the 4 is firing first. But is this reliably? How can I be sure that all pistons and valves are where they should be?

If there is a problem how can I sort it out, and what should I have done in the first place?

Cheers

Mike

[mowgli]

ok. you align the crank pulley first. i always do this on a flat surface in a high gear, by rolling the car back & forth till it is lined up. then handbrake full on. the crank pulley will not move.... then i get the top pulley lined up. the as i said before, i make sure the cambelt is tight on the radiator side(front) of the engine & i get the belt fitted onto the top pulley, then i tighten the water pump till the belt is correctly tensioned. the engine is now timed.. it isn't complicated.