View Full Version : Let Rebuilds
Right seeing as im going to try and keep this LET i think im going to collect together bits for a rebuild.
As ive never done this before i just would like a list of parts im going to need. ill start with what i know im going to need.
Headgasket set
Head Bolts
Exhaust studs
Cam seals
Crankshat seals
Cam belt kit
Oil pump
Water pump
Sump gasket
Xe inlet cam
Ngk BCR8ES x4
Big end bearings
Crank bearings
Thats all i can think of at the moment.
Would like some information aswell is it best to get GM items from vauxhall direct/ Autovaux?
Or would LMF (local motor factors) stuff be ok? thinking stick with Gm as i prob wont have all the bits for months and months so the cost will spread lol
Already been to vauxhall today and bought an 8V baffle kit for the sump and a sump gasket as im going to whip the sump off and give the pick up a clean.
Joe
autovaux for the lot mate
What sort of bits should i be upgrading thou? i already know about ARP bolts so im going to get them for when i rebuild
Genuine or uprated mate, autovaux or sbs you can't go wrong
what are the better bits to uprate thou? im guessing steel headgaskets are better than the ones Vaux supply?
Do you mean Sbd Graeme?
arhh yea ive pm'd steve a few times with no responce i take it he doesnt come online much
Steveboyslim mate, he is very straight talking and his engines and components are on most forums, and I haven't heard a bad word about him, there are bits which he'll advise for all specs but mostly he'll want to know what power your after and what you want to use the car for, and then will advise what sort of spec and bank balance you'll need
Pm him and ask for his number or find it in one of his for sale threads and make sure you have an hour or two spare lol
yea well the thing is its a daily atm but im hoping after this year's NCB i can use it as a weekend toy and get a daily.
As for power im not fussed atm maybe get it running stage 3 or 3.5 as i would like to keep the KKK ive got, then get it hybrided later on in its life.
Been doing a little reading up about oil spray bar nozzles and all sorts lol
djbrowney
09-10-10, 05:03 PM
Why not just buy the complete engine with everything mention above from steve and sell your old one ;)
craig green
09-10-10, 05:08 PM
Std GM spec with ARP's will be good for 350bhp. Though old pistons & tired rods arent ideal tbh.
because i havent got the money :(
I can collect rebuild parts over a couple months ready and i would like to have a crack at it myself as i havent done anything like this before
ive been looking at pistons and rods but i dont think i will be able to afford to do that :( not this year maybe after september
MattBrown
09-10-10, 07:34 PM
Std GM spec with ARP's will be good for 350bhp. Though old pistons & tired rods arent ideal tbh.
Why put arps in an engine that revs to 7k?
mine revs to 7250 atm and with stage 3 they rev to 7800 iirc
MattBrown
09-10-10, 08:00 PM
mine revs to 7250 atm and with stage 3 they rev to 7800 iirc
7800 on a turbo engine?
Fook me lol
yea stage 3.5 revs to just under 8k
when i 1st drove mine only running stage 1 i thought i had a dodgey rev counter as it went right round lol
Why put arps in an engine that revs to 7k?
For £80 or what ever they at now, its a cheap insurance policy on that bit of the engine :)
I'd say a kkk would of ran out of puff well before 8 grand
Holset FTW... feck a garett
MattBrown
09-10-10, 08:17 PM
For £80 or what ever they at now, its a cheap insurance policy on that bit of the engine :)
But, there's no advantage at all?
My xe has them, as it's gonna receive death every run, but a let doesn't need them IMO.
as stuart says why not if your going to the extent of a rebuild,
I know i will be using them anyway
A LET will benefit from them even more. They have more force pushing down on the piston, them tiny bolts are the only thing holding the rod on the crank!
A LET will benefit from them even more. They have more force pushing down on the piston, them tiny bolts are the only thing holding the rod on the crank!
Paul, please dont tell me you wrote that with any hint of seriousness.......
think about where the force of being pushed down goes on the rod bolt ;)
/\ i get it now on the crank lol
Steve for the bits.
As for ARP's, rod bolts yes, mains cap bolts no.
If you do a top speed run in 5th or 6th you are going to be using some revs so wouldn't chance it.
/\ so dont get arp main cap bolts?? any reason for this?
also thinking about arp headbolts
Paul, please dont tell me you wrote that with any hint of seriousness.......
think about where the force of being pushed down goes on the rod bolt ;)
I thought when i wrote that it could be mis-interpreted.
Its on the upstroke the rod bolts take the force. But its the fact the LET will be forcing the piston down with more force I was getting at, so the pistons coming up will getting the same force on their upstroke.
/\ so dont get arp main cap bolts?? any reason for this?
also thinking about arp headbolts
If you want to spend another £110 then go for it.
I'm assuming as your using oe rods that its not a big power build so no I don't think you need them.
Has anyone ever heard of a normal mains bolt failing ? hmm no
If I was building a silly spec engine with a girdle then another £110 is feck all, otherwise its another line to add to your spec sheet.
I thought when i wrote that it could be mis-interpreted.
Its on the upstroke the rod bolts take the force. But its the fact the LET will be forcing the piston down with more force I was getting at, so the pistons coming up will getting the same force on their upstroke.
not quite. the 'force' on the up stroke is going to be more speed/weight related than power/torque related.
Otherwise N/A's wouldnt ever need ARP's as they make shag all power or torque (compared to a terbow, or diesel)...... ahh but a high revver does :)
http://www.cheersandgears.com/public/style_emoticons/default/popcorn.gif
lol
The 'real' force only happens at TDC when you are changing the direction of the velocity, so loading up the bolt in tension. It matters very little how hard you pushed the rod up there.... but the speed that its doing and the weight of the piston and rod will dictate the loading on the bolt as you stop it from Xm/s^-1
it is odd how original equipment rod bolts only last for 150000-200000 miles isn't it..........
indeedy... but then you push them to the end of their safety factor with say 7.5-8K rpm vs 6.8K and you start to find their life expectancy drops off like a stone ;)
surely there wont be much tension on the rod bolts as the next piston in line pushing down on the crank shaft is causing the crank to push the other piston up.
/\ im no mechanic or engine master mind just what i thought sat here having a think lol
I suppose its just for the spec sheet :( gm bolts it is haha
ste porter
10-10-10, 12:57 AM
dont forget though a let produces more torque on the crank ect than an xe and bare in mind that when piston one for example passes through tdc the load thats beeing generated on it is because of another pistons power stroke
in a let producing say 300lbs of torque the loading on the bolts as its thrusted through tdc is considerably higher than that of an engine producing 180lbs of torque is it not?
agreed a higher reving engine is in higher need of a lower reving engine but with regards to lets its not the reving that kills them its the torque that puts the nail in the coffin
and if the theory of if it doesnt rev past 6.8k there not needed then if a 500bhp let produces 500bhp at 6.5k then standard rod bolts will be fine for a 500bhp engine? hummmm?
when the rod bolts in my first c20let let go and put a bloody great hole through the block it wasnt because i was reving to 7k as the standard k16 was out of puff at about 6k
it was more to do with the 289bhp it was producing at the wheels!
it let go under full load in 5th at about 115mph so it was only doing about 4.5k when it went
ok i agree that it wasnt brand new ect but it was a sound low milage example ect prior to that with good oil presure well looked after ect it was just a case of they couldnt cope no more
sbs- steveboyslim
as what alex said above top man
another vote for sbs from me,
also i would spend another 130 quid getting it rotating mass balanced,
if youre bored pop up and you can give me a hand assembling my engine whihc will be going together soon.
Arp - mains, rod bolts, head studs, cometic gasket, steel rods, early crank (polished and balanced) accralite pistons, big valve head, double vlave springs, solid lifters, electric water pump, dry sumped etc
I think a lot of confusion has been had over rod and main bolts... yes mains will take more strain on a tubro, but the rod bolts wont
interesting reading this, carry on chaps
Just bought Arp everything for piece of mind and the fact that they are reusable, if I was doing it again I'd probably buy Steve's own as they are slightly cheaper and identical and if you ask nicely, he'll let you put stuff on lay-away lol
cheers for the offer stt once im up and running again i may just have to pop up.
Right im starting to write my christmas list haha engine rebuild parts haha :)
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