View Full Version : advice on aftermarket management
turbo-boy
03-10-10, 06:13 PM
hello there i have a 1.6 8valve turbo on throttle boddies and im after an after market managemnet for it . looking for an omex or something simaliar. i dont want mega squirt. budget is about 700
Omex is more than up to the job, as are most others on the market - MBE, DTA etc etc...
TBs and Turbo eh? Lets have a look then!
turbo-boy
03-10-10, 07:00 PM
here,s a few pics of it i built it over a year ago
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu35/nova_130bhp/bmwe30029-1.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu35/nova_130bhp/bmwe30028-1.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu35/nova_130bhp/bmwe30039.jpg
Bollox to the pics, vids or gtfo I wanna hear it.
On topic
http://www.dtafast.co.uk/products.htm
http://www.omextechnology.co.uk/Ecus/ecus.htm
Danb1987
03-10-10, 11:19 PM
I bet that'll sound mint!! Hope it all works well matey!! : )
Ha
In your face willF!!!
Nice lump
Omex is always a good bet
Speak to whoever will be mapping it and ask them what they like mapping.
That engine looks the dogs danglies!!!
omex fella :thumb:
your engine looks the bollocks :)
im goin to try & turbo my xe with throttle bodies :)
Maxfield
04-10-10, 09:55 AM
DTA.
I've heard good things about Emerald.
Speak to whoever will be mapping it and ask them what they like mapping.
What he said!
No point fitting something thats not the mapper of choices fave tool.
£700 might be a bit close if that includes mapping...
Oh and if anyone says Mtech V4 they get a slap as thats megasquirt and thats what he didnt want ;)
Largely the actual ECU is irrelevant, its what the calibration on there does thats the important bit. eg ace ecu and dire calibration (map) = dire engine... boggo turd ecu + epic calibration = epic engine
turbo-boy
04-10-10, 01:21 PM
The place going to get to map it can map the following, autronic, emerald, omex, vpec,s and link .was on the net looking at emerald and omex there is not much difference in price on the to I was looking at omex 600 and the new e
Emerald one out which cost £580 plus vat I think and the o
Omex was 615 all in .mapping will
Be done after Xmas .
I'd not really be arsed about the huge lists of features as about 75% wont be used lol.
How is your turbo controlled? a manual boost controller/bleed valve etc or a proper electronic setup?
If its anything bar the electronic setup, then a basic fuel+ignition control ecu will do the trick, no need to spend mega cash on something thats simply not going to be utilised properly.
i just ****ked off to your engine. sstunning.
also i hear decent things about autronic, but tbh stu has the main point covered.
i've been looking at all sorts of ways to get a decent ecu for very little money, and there are some reasonable ones out there..do not buy second hand, it won't have enough bits. don't mess with a unichip, they don't let any diagrams out, its 'dealer' fit only, there is some jap stuff about, but again, usually secondhand.. i did find one called dicktator (honestly) from south africa, and seemed pretty good for the money, but it is always down to setup maps & rolling road charges, but street mapping is doable too, but you have to know what you are doing, so i've been told........
personally if i had the money for a full uk one, i'd probably speak to emerald.
2nd hand ECU's tend to be fine.... its jsut you wont get a loom for your needs, but making one properly really isnt that hard.
but the cost savings of a 2nd hand one really dont make it much of a sensible choice as they only tend to be 20% less if that than a new one..
Megasquirt/Mtec V4 are great options but not developed enough for my liking.
Gotech are pretty good from SA
and for piggy backs, the AEM F/IC is a pretry good beast for £240ish but you can only retard the ign and not advance (no biggie if on a boosted engine though). I'd have an AEM F/IC on my engine any day of the week (if I wanted to fettle that way)
turbo-boy
04-10-10, 07:01 PM
Yea I no what u mean staurt I'm running external wasta gate spring is set to 9 psi as hat all I want to be runing at the start. My friend got a mega squirt and he had nothing but bother and the service was very bad. I think it between link omex or emerald
Emerald will cost more than Omex to set up IME
turbo-boy
05-10-10, 06:12 PM
I have decided that I
Going to get omex 600 for it.I also have one more question in relation to wide band lamba sensor which one is suitable for this ecu as in can I get one that will plug into the ecumand so run a gauge for me to look at on the dash.
iirc omex likes any wideband. and dont get me going on road mapping...
Yea I no what u mean staurt I'm running external wasta gate spring is set to 9 psi as hat all I want to be runing at the start. My friend got a mega squirt and he had nothing but bother and the service was very bad. I think it between link omex or emerald
you dont get service from a DIY build ;) lol
Poor builds tend to make MS give poor results...... Mtech have covered most of the bases on that front but its still not perfect.
iirc omex likes any wideband. and dont get me going on road mapping...
Whats wrong with road calibration....... 90% of the calibrations for most cars are done by the OEM's that way ;)
Noob question,
the op's engine looks like a C16 so am I best to convert my E16 turbo to coilpack for running standalone?
Coilpacks give a stronger spark, and are generally better, so yes I would say you are.
When I put OMEX on my LET, I opted to ditch the coil/dizzy etc and go for coilpack, due to some advice given to me by three very well known Steve's...
Cheers Paul,
turbo boy what's the full spec on your engine? Pistons, throttle bodie size, injectors, turbo?
What power do you expect?
( just being nosey lol, )
turbo-boy
06-10-10, 07:54 AM
Rebuilt engine using all new parts ,balanced,t25rebuilt with 360thrust wahers from a Saab turbo .gsxr750 throttle
Boodies with home made boost box.think o should get 170bhp then I can build on it wann running water injection
turbo-boy
06-10-10, 07:56 AM
And the injectors are motorbike ones situ custom fuel rail but I will be getting bigger ones in the future.they should be ok for the bhp i want
How have you lowered the compresion? I'll be using 2 gaskets with a spacer plate but aim to get proper pistons later on, I've been told the T25 is good for up to 200 as that's what I've got but with a courtney manifold, I'm thinking about aftermarket management aswell simply to ensure the fueling is correct at all times, and to get the best performance from what I have.
imho keeping stock 10:1 CR would be fine when on aftermarket management.
You make the power you want with less boost, and therefore less heat issues etc.... or same boost and more power ;)
Whats wrong with road calibration....... 90% of the calibrations for most cars are done by the OEM's that way ;)
what i was told by dave walker from emerald. aparrently its impossible to set the load sites correctly due to the environment the car is in being uncontrollable:thumb:
what i was told by dave walker from emerald. aparrently its impossible to set the load sites correctly due to the environment the car is in being uncontrollable:thumb:
you dont have to sit on load sites to get things right, plus you actually make it very driveable with road calibration.
Not saying DW is wrong for liking dyno work, but you cant dispute that road calibration is the most real world way of getting things nice.
Plus you could spend (waste) time on rollers setting up load sites that simply will never be seen on the road lol
different streaks for different freaks..... ;)
mix ftw, but mostly on road ;)
so, like, basic map on the rollers the fine tune up the street?
driveability setup on the road, then go get some long term loading areas on the rollers to do temperature contol etc.
and to fine tune emissions if you care.
imho tuning for power on the rollers is a waste of time if the thing drives badly, I'd sooner lose 10% power to have something more driveable lol
turbo-boy
06-10-10, 05:25 PM
I just have 2 gaskets they are vauxhalls ones which I think Are far better than the motor craft ones. One thing that I havnt looked at yet on my engine is an idle control
Valve do I def need one or is there another way of controlling the idle
you have three choices of idle control...
1) Electronic Throttle Body.... No chance!
2) Fixed idle position so it will vary with climate changes
3) ICV fitted to bypass the throttle valve when fully shut (easiest option for you)
With omex you dont need an ICV.
craig green
06-10-10, 09:12 PM
Great thread & nice engine. I'm surprised nobody has suggested you bin that FSE valve yet.
Great thread & nice engine. I'm surprised nobody has suggested you bin that FSE valve yet.
I couldnt see the pics at work lol.
Paul, without an ICV just how do you propose an variable idle speed is maintained?
Mine has no ICV on it. What do you mean by variable idle speed?
cold start wants a higher idle, then dropping to a lower idle etc
Omexh as cold start map, picks it up from CTS
all it can do is control fuel and spark though, not air so you can do proper fun idle control.... granted its 'good enough' for most
The ICV is just another thing to go wrong, mine works ok without one.
If it was me id fcuk the ICV off.
turbo-boy
07-10-10, 12:05 AM
I will just leave it without one as I don't hav one plumbed in yet.yea I want to get a better fuel pressure reg .heard people taking about a cosworth one.
C612DNM
08-10-10, 11:47 PM
I'd go for DTA - it's closed loop setup is handy for ironing out the rough edges.
I use DTA on my GSi race engine.
turbo-boy
09-10-10, 07:08 PM
I'm getting the omex 600 for it.on the look out for a good value wide band lamba sensor kit
craig green
09-10-10, 07:31 PM
Something as vital as a wideband, you really want a good one, try ebay or forums for an unused Innovate jobbie. I nearly bought one still sealed in its box for about £110 a few months back.
pikey wideband is 14point7.com (If you are worried about making it, I could solder it all up for you if you get it sent to me).
But once you add boxing it and a sensor, you are looking at nearish the £150 of a stack setup etc.
PLX Devices wideband units are very good. Need no free air calibration and just work. Mine's been on the car for years and is still spot on.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.