View Full Version : C20LET chipsets
Right I've currently purchased a let and I haven't got a clue when it comes to turbo engines.
At the moment at a guess it's standard with Xe inlet cam (no proof of this thou only what I've been told, any easy way of checking it?)
I will be looking at upping the power in the near future and wandered if beardy evo5 chip is any good? And also what actuator would I need? And do I need an adjustable FPR or upgraded injectors?
If anyone has a site with the phase upgrades and what need buying?
Thanks in advance joe
MattBrown
22-09-10, 09:59 AM
Judging by what Ive read.
Its an evo5 chipset
4.5bar fuel reg (FOOOKING high)
standard injectors
And unsure on actuator.
IIRC LeeH tried some Saab reds, but didnt like them. Pm him, he knows let engines in and out.
garethcolley
22-09-10, 10:04 AM
All LET chipsets are mapped using standard injectors hence why you up the fuel pressure. Don't use Saab reds they flow too much.
MattBrown
22-09-10, 10:05 AM
All LET chipsets are mapped using standard injectors hence why you up the fuel pressure. Don't use Saab reds they flow too much.
Thats what I was trying to explain in my simple languagelol
Gareth_C
22-09-10, 10:09 AM
Speak to dave dixon mate he is pretty good with all the knowledge on the chips failing that regal sells eds phase chips they may be able to give good help on what you need for ther power you want :thumb:
Well I'm just going to gather information at the moment and when I've got some spare cash upgrade the power.
My my 1st purchase will be an f28 thou as I've been told the f20 won't handle much over standard power
ive heard good stuff about beardys ones, avoid ebatty ones mind. has it got a decent fmic and boost pipes? is the engine in fine fettle?
The engine seems fine to me but I'm going to get someone to have a good look over it. It's got a frontera fmic and 2" solid boost pipes with silicon hoses on the bends. No chav valve on it thou lol.
The 1st upgrade is going to be an F28. Then all start purchasing chips and what's needed to run them.
good plan, id look at a decent clutch and possibly a lightened fly whilst the box is out matey. easy power and responce
If it doesn't have a chav value makes sure the factory one is still operational on the in let side of the turbo in order for it not to suffer with turbo stall, it might sound better but a kkk turbo won't like it for long
hmm factory one?? any pics of this so i can go out and check
Dam i love the flutter
Does it handle good and has decent suspension?
If not I'd spend money on that before making it faster.
Does it handle good and has decent suspension?
If not I'd spend money on that before making it faster.
Very very good point, everything else should done before power increase, what suspension set up and brakes does it have ?
Still think you need a thread in projects for it Joe
i will get a projects thread up soon, its got uprated shocks and poundage springs on it already, although my coilovers will be refurbed as soon as i have some spare cash.
As ive already said in this thread Power wont be done 1st im just trying to find out as much information on it all as a turbo is a whole new concept for me to get my head around.
garethcolley
22-09-10, 07:13 PM
The engine seems fine to me but I'm going to get someone to have a good look over it. It's got a frontera fmic and 2" solid boost pipes with silicon hoses on the bends. No chav valve on it thou lol.
The 1st upgrade is going to be an F28. Then all start purchasing chips and what's needed to run them.
I wouldn't bother upgrading to an F28 if your only running Phase 1 or 2. My F20 and most of my mates have never failed on that power. I don't see F28 as much of an upgrade as its a lot of headache.
Also i've used eBay chips before with no problems.
garethcolley
22-09-10, 07:14 PM
Does it handle good and has decent suspension?
If not I'd spend money on that before making it faster.
Is it ever going to handle well with a big engine fitted? I used to run my Nova LET P1 on gmax sport kit and it was fine.
Rickardo
22-09-10, 07:20 PM
Joe, mine had a F20 on it for yrs. It's still going strong now.
I had an EDS stage 1 chip. Frontera front mount. It made 245 Bhp on 2 different rollers.
It was good enough for a 13.4 1/4 mile.
They were about £250 fitted iirc.
sounds good to me :) still i reckon i want a 6th gear haha just the £250 odd for a box which is putting me off atm
may get my coilovers refurbed asap and then start looking for phase 2, then once phase 2 bore's me look for an f28 then up the power abit more.
it will be left as is thou for a while as i kind of need a reasionable MPG haha
Not the best pic, but its the first i found. Bit circled is the recirc valve (std dump valve)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v321/bennh/Crap/Frontend2.jpg
Check its plumbed in, remove the 6 bolts and check it can all move freely on the insides.
its there and its got a bit of vacum hose coming off it with a bolt in it, im guessing thats wrong?
I would rep you again benn your being very helpful lol. there will be loads more questions im sure haha
That means it blocked, does it have a dump valve? You want something to release the pressure build up.
right so its blocked and i dont have a chav valve no :( where do i need to plumb that into then?
You'll want one or the other. If your gonna use that take the end off and check its not been blocked on the inside, mine has a spacer in to it stop it moving.
See pic, recirc/dump valve plumbing (easier to see than read)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v321/bennh/Crap/letmotronic.jpg
cool cheers for that will have to have a look tomorrow now as its dark,
Is it bad then not having a dump valve or the standard one in use?
yes you can kill the turbo
As said, yea i believe you get turbo stall which can relly damage it from pressure build up..
Well worth saving these pics. I have them all on file for when i need them.
hmmm going to have to find some vac hose quickly then :(
Ebay, i got all mine there.
yea im going to want it tomorrow as she will be all taxed up then. fingers crossed halfords sells it
garethcolley
23-09-10, 10:26 AM
As said, yea i believe you get turbo stall which can relly damage it from pressure build up..
Well worth saving these pics. I have them all on file for when i need them.
The wheel will stall and hence cause increased load on the bearings. Interestingly my mate who works for Cummins says the new ball bearing turbos handle the load differently and it generally causes less problems.
moar info on that pls/\ :)
garethcolley
23-09-10, 12:58 PM
moar info on that pls/\ :)
Something to do with how the load is transferred into the bearing arrangement. There is a subtle difference between how journal and ball bearing turbo's are supported and hence when you get the opposing pressure from the TB being shut this radial and axial force is absorbed in a different way. Thats all i know, i'll ask him for details.
Right I've found a dv and fixing kit in the box of spares.
Does it matter where abouts it goes in the boost/intake pipes?
Also the hose that goes on the top does that go to the inlet? I've had a look from the pic on the past page and the fpr is connected to the inlet vac hose then it goes into the ecu is this wrong?
Is a 3 bar fpr standard aswell?
Project thread and pics needed me thinks lol
MattBrown
24-09-10, 09:44 AM
Right I've found a dv and fixing kit in the box of spares.
Does it matter where abouts it goes in the boost/intake pipes?
Also the hose that goes on the top does that go to the inlet? I've had a look from the pic on the past page and the fpr is connected to the inlet vac hose then it goes into the ecu is this wrong?
Is it a twin piston one?
As the AFM will turd itsself otherwise lol
They do run (youtube it) however, I have always been told to only use a twin piston, dont want you to do any damage etc:thumb:
IMO leave it off, just make sure the standard one is working ok
Is it a twin piston one?
As the AFM will turd itsself otherwise lol
They do run (youtube it) however, I have always been told to only use a twin piston, dont want you to do any damage etc:thumb:
wut? twin piston dv's are used on stuff like rst's and mech injection where it uses a spring plate to measure air flow, its there to seal the inlet, like an airlock, so the "flap" in the metering head doesnt flutter and make it kangaroo itself... yet again your spouting poo.:roll:
MattBrown
24-09-10, 10:17 AM
wut? twin piston dv's are used on stuff like rst's and mech injection where it uses a spring plate to measure air flow, its there to seal the inlet, like an airlock, so the "flap" in the metering head doesnt flutter and make it kangaroo itself... yet again your spouting poo.:roll:
Ok, so why is the specific baiiley dump valve a twin piston?
If you read the internet, every single site says use a twin piston with the c20let?:mad:
MattBrown
24-09-10, 10:18 AM
http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/engines-transmission/434261-what-dump-valve-c20let.html
Aww, no, robs wrong again....
actually, im not, your getting an afm confused with a maf.
have a read:
Dump valves (also know as blow-off valves) are not a new idea and have been around since the early 1980’s. Their function is to release un-used boost pressure when lifting off the throttle of a turbo charged car. By fitting a dump valve, every time you release the throttle the excess boost pressure will be released, which means a significant reduction in ‘turbo lag’, contributing towards faster pick-up between gear changes.
Bailey Motorsport introduced the Piston design dump valve in 1997. Piston dump valves have many advantages over their diaphragm style counterparts, including faster reaction times, increased boost capability and in the case of the ‘EVO’ valve the ability to work on cars with airflow meters.
The DV24 single piston dump valve is designed for turbocharged cars that use a carburettor, throttle bodies or fuel injection with no air flow meter which use a MAF. The DV24 dump valve has a 60psi boost capability.
The DV26 or ‘EVO’ twin piston dump valve is designed for turbocharges cars that have fuel injection with an airflow meter (afm). The ingenious second piston allows cars to idle perfectly and for fuel mixture to be unchanged which resolves all the running problems traditionally associated with diaphragm valves. The DV26 also has a 60psi boost capability.
thus the let uses a hotwire type MAF, not the flap type AFM used on a c20ne for example. learn to read.
MattBrown
24-09-10, 12:17 PM
Thus everyone on the Internet is wrong?
MattBrown
24-09-10, 12:17 PM
Thus everyone on the Internet is wrong?
not entirely, you can use a dv26 twin piston on an engine that doent need it, and it will work fine, its just a commonly perpetuauted myth that it needs it.
MattBrown
24-09-10, 12:42 PM
not entirely, you can use a dv26 twin piston on an engine that doent need it, and it will work fine, its just a commonly perpetuauted myth that it needs it.
Hmm, not convinced tbh.
Hey hoe, ill go with the masses/internet/tuning companies
And use a bailey dv26:thumb:
Right well as edd said I'm going to re pipe the standard one me thinks. Got to get some vac hose from halfords if they sell it
MattBrown
24-09-10, 12:53 PM
Right well as edd said I'm going to re pipe the standard one me thinks. Got to get some vac hose from halfords if they sell it
They do, but several sizes, so get the correct one.
And pics of said nova?
id say bailey know thier onions, my post above was off their site...
No pics as of yet will get some up over the weekend. Need to borrow a camera off someone. If not I'm sure I know some one who will take some for me
MattBrown
24-09-10, 01:40 PM
No pics as of yet will get some up over the weekend. Need to borrow a camera off someone. If not I'm sure I know some one who will take some for me
Thought you had an iphone:wtf:
Thought you had an iphone:wtf:
Me too, photobucket app, job done :d
On the d/v topic, dunno bout c lets but on z lets blocking off the oe dump valve makes the engine run crap, I really wouldn't bother with a aftermarket one.
I do have an iPhone will look into the photobucket app
Yea going to use the standard one until I get a bigger turbo and need one :)
Don't feel to fast ATM but I think that's cause the speedo cables snapped :(
Had a quick look at the pic been put up and he has the ecu take off plumbed in where the standard dv is.
Anyone got a picture of where the ecu take off should be? I'm guessing it's got a electrical plug on it? If it does I know where it is
ecu vac pipe shoud go the the back of the throttle body iirc, there is/was a diag posted by benn a bit ago.
Yea there's a pic up in this threa but not 100% clear.
Will have a search later tonight when I'm on the pc
http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/images/LET/TPS.jpg
is that where i connect the ecu pickup? to the left of the arrow???
iirc yes but ask a let owner
ive been pming them asking them to take a look
Right, the dv pipe i have goes to a T piece then to the FPR.
Dv fitting is best after the ic i was told. But can be anywhere from there to top hat.
FPR should be 2.5 iirc, that's std chips.
right well my Fpr is 3 bar, there is a tee peice for the Fpr and ive just put another one in for the Dv as the boost gauge is Tee'd into that pipe aswell
My FPR pip is T'ed with the DV, the pipe that goes to the ecu should have the the boost gauge taken from it.
hmm ok well i will see if i can swap that around then.
Where do you have the ecu boost feed from? Should be the small take off on the tb (like that pic a page back shows)
the ecu feed is in the correct place, coming off the Left hand front vac take off i have Fpr, Boost gauge and now the Dv
That will do for tonight and tomorrow i will get the boost gauge fitted to the Ecu take off,, and then take the ecu out and see if it has any chips
Ok, i'd move the gauge to a take off under the dash to the ecu feed. But the rest is right.
Right im guessing now my Let isnt standard as the position Benn told me to put the actuator it wasnt boosting at all.
Ive been playing around and moving it about.
How do i tell if my ecu has been chipped? ive got it infront of me and the case off. right thats all i can do is get the case off how do i open the pcb's up
You have to split the boards and there will be a chip in the top and bottom boards if standard will have a white plastic cover on them
how do i split the boards?? dont want to break anything
There is a guide on the ctor forum, I think you have to register though, basicly you unclip the white towers that hold the boards together and then realise the clips there the pins are and then the top row of pins slide backwards thus opening two boards up
ok done it and on the 2 chips its got a sticker sayin B&S Phase 1 C20LET Deckel
Have you been told it has had chips put in it then ?
They are very tight the first time like most girls lol
what gains are there from phase 1?
Wind the gate/nuts in then test drive, wind in and test drive.
I did this on mine to get it set up better, keep doing it till you get boost cut.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.