View Full Version : VW Golf MK4's are poo
chimp007_uk
20-09-10, 11:34 AM
Not happy...!!
Spent far too much money on a car that really needs respraying, as I had intended on keeping it and driving it into the ground! had solid flywheel and full bush kit fitted 2 months ago. I've also fitted H&R cup suspension, new top mounts, steering rod arms, ball joints, rod ends, brakes and brake pipes.
I was finally happy with it, when today pulling out of my road, I hear a scraping sound... :eek:
Pull over have a look underneath, and the undertray had broken and was rubbing on the driverbelt and AC compressor pulley... :mad: Moved it out the way, thought I'd fire it up, sounded like a bag of nails! :wtf: :eek: Turned it off, lifted the bonnet only find the engine on the wonk :tard:
Towed it home, and had a good look, to find the bolts that hold the bracket to the block that the engine mount bolts to had sheered off inside the block, as well as the rear snapping the block... :mad: :cry:
Basically, the block is now scrap and is going to cost in excess of £1000 to fix...
Had to take the day off, so I don't get paid just to rub salt in the wounds!
Any VW mechanics out there?
HELP!
Oh noes, sounds like you've had nothing but troubles with this one then.
What engine is it?
get the block weded or chem metal the fukker and flog it fast...
chimp007_uk
20-09-10, 12:00 PM
Troubles... I thought I must have bought a dud, until you get on the owners forums to find that they're all common faults.
Clutch pedal snapped as well!
chimp007_uk
20-09-10, 12:02 PM
get the block weded or chem metal the fukker and flog it fast...
Can't, it's cast and I dont have the bit that smissing. Plus I still have the other bolt stuck in the bluck...
So far...
£500-600 for bare engine
£500 to have it fitted
£150-200 for cambelt kit, engine mounts and drivebelt kit
Other option is find a cheap car thats MOT'd and tax and swap the insurance. IT worked out at £1k to Insure and tax the Nova :(
bloody hell mate u dont do things by halves do u.......
will be caused by mounting bolts being overtightened. I work for vw but only for another 4 weeks lol what engine is it?
chimp007_uk
20-09-10, 12:46 PM
will be caused by mounting bolts being overtightened. I work for vw but only for another 4 weeks lol what engine is it?
It's a 1.9TDI AHF 110hp.
The cambelt was done along time ago, and is up soon. The mounts haven't been touched for the 2years i've owned the car. Apprently, another cause is reusing the bolts...
I've looked at it now. There's 2 bolts which are snapped in the block, and one which has snapped part of the block off.
John, what's the timing marks on these? I've worried that it might have slipped as the mount was rubbing against the belt :(
cant you get the bolts out of the block by welding something to it, and then replacing the bolts, cambelt and mount maybe...
and save money by doing it your self :)
cant you get the bolts out of the block by welding something to it, and then replacing the bolts, cambelt and mount maybe...
and save money by doing it your self :)
That hole in the block might still be a problem though.
Seems you had nothing but crap luck with this car, remember you saying you kept a stock of spare central locking motors last time I was down there!
unlucky chimp, if you had it 2 years and its nothing but trouble id cut my losses and break it to fund something else
Can't, it's cast and I dont have the bit that smissing. Plus I still have the other bolt stuck in the bluck...
So far...
£500-600 for bare engine
£500 to have it fitted
£150-200 for cambelt kit, engine mounts and drivebelt kit
Other option is find a cheap car thats MOT'd and tax and swap the insurance. IT worked out at £1k to Insure and tax the Nova :( :eek: thats robbery wouldent cost half that hear my mate had to replace his subbarue engine £700 all in including buying the engine was back on the road with in 2 days of getting the engine you should shop about for a better deal
chimp007_uk
20-09-10, 01:17 PM
unlucky chimp, if you had it 2 years and its nothing but trouble id cut my losses and break it to fund something else
Tell me about it...
It's a good work horse when it's ok lol does 60mpg+ handles nicely now too with all new fabia VRS and Audi S3 bushes, plus the suspension.
Shame!!
I'm thinking, drop the engine get the 2 bolts drilled out (might be able to weld onto one, but the other is recessed) and then fit a new mount with new bolts and try and fab a bracket that picks up a couple of other redundant fixings.
chimp007_uk
20-09-10, 01:19 PM
:eek: thats robbery wouldent cost half that hear my mate had to replace his subbarue engine £700 all in including buying the engine was back on the road with in 2 days of getting the engine you should shop about for a better deal
Not sure where you live... but the cheapest I've found an engine froma reliable seller for is £500, then £500 to remove the old engine, strip and swap parts then refit for £500.
Plus at present I work for Euro Car Parts, so can ge tthe parts cheaper and that still adds up to nearly £200...
Could be a 2.0 NA scooby lump or something, second hand for pennies then £500 to fit... I'd say £500 to fit an entire engine isn't too bad tbh, engine out cambelt change could cost you near a grand.
chimp, drill ther 2 remaining bolts, clean the threads, and coat the bolts with chem metal, get em in and tight and once it warms up it will never come out. then sell it fast as poss.
It's a 1.9TDI AHF 110hp.
The cambelt was done along time ago, and is up soon. The mounts haven't been touched for the 2years i've owned the car. Apprently, another cause is reusing the bolts...
I've looked at it now. There's 2 bolts which are snapped in the block, and one which has snapped part of the block off.
John, what's the timing marks on these? I've worried that it might have slipped as the mount was rubbing against the belt :(
can't remember off hand chap, if it was running you should be ok. I bet the bolts that are snapped in the block will wind out ok, i did one at work and just undid them with my thumb.
chimp007_uk
20-09-10, 01:32 PM
chimp, drill ther 2 remaining bolts, clean the threads, and coat the bolts with chem metal, get em in and tight and once it warms up it will never come out. then sell it fast as poss.
Thats what I'm thinking... Only problem is, I no longer have an engine hoist :( and I have a gravel drive. Will need to get a garage to get it out.
chimp, drill ther 2 remaining bolts, clean the threads, and coat the bolts with chem metal, get em in and tight and once it warms up it will never come out. then sell it fast as poss.
you sir are a ****
I trust whoever buys your car dosent get stiffed as that post implies
craig green
20-09-10, 01:45 PM
Oh but VAG's are great! Err not.
Is there any end to the list of 'common faults' with VW's?
I feel your pain chimp, sorry to hear about it. I drove my mates 130bhp GTDi thing on sat & was quite impressed, but I know he's had some issues with the under tray thing & what not.
chimp007_uk
20-09-10, 01:47 PM
you sir are a ****
I trust whoever buys your car dosent get stiffed as that post implies
TBH I would love to keep the car, as I need a diesel and would only buy another Golf, which would only have the same problems. If I fixed it, I'd make a bracket as per LINKY (http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=71262&page=2&highlight=broken+engine+mount) drive it and see how it goes.
Anyone have any experience of Cavelier 2litre 16v GLS Auto's?! Found one for £250...
http://www.tools4trade.com/d-1633012-Faithfull-Right-Angled-Drill-Chuck-38in-Keyless--.aspx
http://www.tools4trade.com/d-8027358-CK-Screw-Extractor-Size-1-Set-Of-5----(T3062-01).aspx
and 2 decent mugs of tea should do it
Chimp, that wasnt aimed at you ;)
mmm cav auto...... dog slow and mega thristy
craig green
20-09-10, 01:51 PM
Cav auto FTW. No Golf but then it will be dependable & easy to fix.
no offence stu but how else is he gonna fix it, if its 3 bolts and 1 is u/s then use the other 2 and get em to stay put. if you like, you could use extra strong thread lock, same thing tbh. how is it stiffing someone? having watched honda techs repair an nsx gearbox with chem metal, and a jag techie use cable ties for part of a dash, what i posted is nothing.
Drill out, helicoil, done PROPERLY :)
just because youve 'seen' things happen dosent mean they are right.
Drill out, helicoil, done PROPERLY :)
just because youve 'seen' things happen dosent mean they are right.
snapped lugs don't helicoil very well....
thats my point, ive seen seasoned techies royally **** stuff with helicoils. tap and die is ftw. then what i said.
because techies are spastics.... Engineering FTW
brainsnova
20-09-10, 02:15 PM
i got a steel inserts and the inside was m7 and outside m10 so even would save mangled threads.
a block repair would cost the earth. so the angle iron bodge looked ok ish.
i have a touran, and we have a caddy at work. i wonder if this only happens on crash damaged cars???
brainsnova
20-09-10, 02:16 PM
would an xe fit
don't even think about it
would an xe fit dont be so stupid an xe wouldent help put a let in insted
craig green
20-09-10, 02:28 PM
I wanted to XE my mk3. It wouldve made it a half decent car then.
a 1.9tdi can be cranked up to some serious hp.. a let would be a step backwards
there is already a let mk4 arund, it was posted in club a few months ago. if it was me, id do as above or break it and buy another.
chimp007_uk
20-09-10, 02:39 PM
a block repair would cost the earth. so the angle iron bodge looked ok ish.
i have a touran, and we have a caddy at work. i wonder if this only happens on crash damaged cars???
It's not just crash damaged cars, I rang a VW enthusiast mate of mine and it's common across the engine range. I'd find out if new bolts were used!
It's not looking like a massive job now, only problem is finding someone to take the engine out cheaply as said, I have no access to an engine crane and have a gravel drive. I can assure you it was fun with a poxy 8v let allow a dirty derv engine.
chimp007_uk
20-09-10, 02:40 PM
a 1.9tdi can be cranked up to some serious hp.. a let would be a step backwards
Mine's currently runnign 146hp and does 60mpg, hence why I don't really want to shop it in...
because techies are spastics.... Engineering FTW
OI! :wtf:
OI! :wtf:
wuv ooo hunny.
ok I rephrase.... The ones Sloth knows/has met/has invented to make his bodges sound tangable lol
a block repair would cost the earth. so the angle iron bodge looked ok ish.
i have a touran, and we have a caddy at work. i wonder if this only happens on crash damaged cars???
The engine mount is designed to shear in the case of an accident. Hence it's important that they're torqued up correctly. No offence chimp but i reckon someone has massivly overtightened by someone in the past, thus causing your problems. Common misconception that it's a fault with the car/vw etc.
Cast can be welded properly btw.
wuv ooo hunny.
ok I rephrase.... The ones Sloth knows/has met/has invented to make his bodges sound tangable lol
better lol did you see f/b btw, no recalls outstanding.:thumb:
are they the same on the stupid longditudionally mounted engines as per the passat?
**edit** win about recalls, in the big rain weve had, its all dry in the pax side :d
Brodie_Sri
20-09-10, 06:10 PM
gutted to hear about your bad luck mate :( hope you get it sorted.
are they the same on the stupid longditudionally mounted engines as per the passat?
**edit** win about recalls, in the big rain weve had, its all dry in the pax side :d
No, the mounts are in a rwd position. On a fwd the alloy mount goes around the cambelt cover.
(i did have a quick look at the service history stu, the pollen filter housing was re-sealed under warranty.:thumb: )
I've had a Golf do the same thing on me, tried chemical metal, but it just broke again, so only option was a new engine. They are hard to come across and everyone is ever so slightly different too which makes fitting them a pain in the ****!!
davidfox280585
20-09-10, 07:25 PM
sounds a bit bad mate i had the 1.9 tdi bora ahf on coilovers and 18s and never had a problem for 4 years though my mate has had 2 clutch pedals in his
chimp007_uk
20-09-10, 07:29 PM
sounds a bit bad mate i had the 1.9 tdi bora ahf on coilovers and 18s and never had a problem for 4 years though my mate has had 2 clutch pedals in his
You're one of the lucky few...
I've had central locking motors go at £100+ a corner. The window reg clips snap, clutch pedal snap. Chewing rear wishbone bushes. Flywheel... Ac stoppped working due to gearbox wiring being too short... Rear washer hose doesnt secure properly, filling c pillers... list is endless!!!
Not to mention all the other crap like, CAT, 2 windscreens, broken springs, rear caliper sliding seizing.
VW are like Marmite... I love my Golf, just hate the faults!
TBH I would love to keep the car, as I need a diesel and would only buy another Golf, which would only have the same problems. If I fixed it, I'd make a bracket as per LINKY (http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=71262&page=2&highlight=broken+engine+mount) drive it and see how it goes.
Anyone have any experience of Cavelier 2litre 16v GLS Auto's?! Found one for £250...
the ceasaro's are worth that!!!!
chimp007_uk
20-09-10, 07:44 PM
the ceasaro's are worth that!!!!
Sold :(
scott.parker
20-09-10, 08:31 PM
Your one unlucky chap chimp..
I had my passat tdi b5 just under 4 years, when i bought it it had some issues, central locking was temperamental on drives side etc, then there was the lack off rear cl and ew, i had a rear caliper go on me £175 recond!then only in the final months of having it did something go wrong "common fault" the drive belt tensioner buckled and snapped off and ripped the drive belt, meaning front off alternator out, new timing/drive belts/kits etc, £400 down i then decided was time to get rid, then had the mot about 4 months later costing £300 on wish bones etc **** wish bone set up, why so over engineered eh??
Any how my mate at work bought the car knowing it had all the main new pats done to it, he then fixed all the faults i could be bothered with, coming to about £200 all in, and now has gone and fitted the standard springs back on (had 40mm pi's that lowered ti 60mm lol) and has had lots of clunking knocking noise since, and has been told the wish bones are shot AGAIN, but i think it's the spring are upside down and clicking round on the underside of the top mounts etc..
I was quite lucky with that car, but i would not own post 98 VW again....
Break it and get a mk4 Astra, best car ive had in years so far..
Scott
davidfox280585
20-09-10, 08:41 PM
You're one of the lucky few...
I've had central locking motors go at £100+ a corner. The window reg clips snap, clutch pedal snap. Chewing rear wishbone bushes. Flywheel... Ac stoppped working due to gearbox wiring being too short... Rear washer hose doesnt secure properly, filling c pillers... list is endless!!!
Not to mention all the other crap like, CAT, 2 windscreens, broken springs, rear caliper sliding seizing.
VW are like Marmite... I love my Golf, just hate the faults!
tell a lie couple of abs sensors,2 wishbones and had to reset brake light switch ratchet
ben doodar
21-09-10, 10:58 AM
Sorry to hear your mis fortune mate! I've got a golf gt tdi 130, had it about 6 months now, and it's been awesome (trying not to curse myself) I really can't fault it. I've replaced the rear beam bushes with some flo-flex ones and lowered it 35mm. Allthough there's a slight knocking coming from the front n/s wheel so guessing it's a bottom arm bush/ball joint, will have to have a look before it gets to bad! I don't know if you've been rather unlucky with yours or I've been lucky with mine. A friend has the gt tdi 150 and has had to replace the turbo on it, apart from that he's had no trouble either!
chimp007_uk
21-09-10, 09:07 PM
Good news, in a small way...
Got the snapped bolts out... hurrahhhhhhh!!! 5p - 10p moment drilling in the block! It was $hit or bust really, but hey ho worst that could happen was a retap or insert.
Dropped the gearbox mount and jacked the car up on the driver's side. Removed the bracket finally, marked the centrs of the bolts (as best possible) and started drilling slowly... Placed a cloth and magnet below to stop swarf going round the cambelt. waked an easyout in, and hey-presto out it came.
Repeat till well done on the lower mount and one slightly better looking engine block.
Problem I have now, is timing marks. I have a solid flywheel conversion kit fitted, and there is no timing marks on the flywheel... Locked the pump and in the locked position checked the cam timing, (took the rocket off and check lobes were both up on No1 and removed vacpump and checked key was horizontal) all pukka. Now this evening, I took the glowplug for No1 out and placed a thin tube down, rocking the cam pulley, the pump locking point seems to be at the end of the dwell...
I'm no VW mech, whats the correct procedure (John H ;))
Help appreciated!!
Good news, in a small way...
Got the snapped bolts out... hurrahhhhhhh!!! 5p - 10p moment drilling in the block! It was $hit or bust really, but hey ho worst that could happen was a retap or insert.
Dropped the gearbox mount and jacked the car up on the driver's side. Removed the bracket finally, marked the centrs of the bolts (as best possible) and started drilling slowly... Placed a cloth and magnet below to stop swarf going round the cambelt. waked an easyout in, and hey-presto out it came.
Repeat till well done on the lower mount and one slightly better looking engine block.
Problem I have now, is timing marks. I have a solid flywheel conversion kit fitted, and there is no timing marks on the flywheel... Locked the pump and in the locked position checked the cam timing, (took the rocket off and check lobes were both up on No1 and removed vacpump and checked key was horizontal) all pukka. Now this evening, I took the glowplug for No1 out and placed a thin tube down, rocking the cam pulley, the pump locking point seems to be at the end of the dwell...
I'm no VW mech, whats the correct procedure (John H ;))
Help appreciated!!
is it the pd engine?
craig green
21-09-10, 09:25 PM
Good news so far Chimp! :thumb:
A friend has the gt tdi 150 and has had to replace the turbo on it, apart from that he's had no trouble either!
Ive heard they are a nightmare & not worth the extra 20bhp.
chimp007_uk
21-09-10, 09:30 PM
is it the pd engine?
Old school non-PD. AHF is the engine code, 110hp jobby.
Old school non-PD. AHF is the engine code, 110hp jobby.
it's that long since i've done one, i'll have to double check on elsa at work tommorow. Pm me your chassis number.
chimp007_uk
21-09-10, 09:34 PM
Is the old dear behind reception that knowledgeable?! lol
Pm on the way :) Thanks John! All the people on UKMKiv are so unhelpful it's untrue!!
Is the old dear behind reception that knowledgeable?! lol
Pm on the way :) Thanks John! All the people on UKMKiv are so unhelpful it's untrue!!
lol elsa-pro is vw's on line computer system. Not a fan of that site either tbh.
chimp007_uk
21-09-10, 09:44 PM
lol elsa-pro is vw's on line computer system. Not a fan of that site either tbh.
I think the parts guys at work use Ekta? Sadly I don't have access, but that is only a parts database.
chimp007_uk
23-09-10, 08:22 AM
Any joy John? Or was Elsa being senile...?
If you take the engine out you CAN get the cast block welded mate i know as we had this very problem when an AUDI A3 2.0 TDI PD got towed in and it is caused by the bolts either getting overtightened on cross threaded, if you drill out the two that are broken and put it back together with only two holiding it they will snap, the fault isn't all that common i worked at a VW dealership for two years and had never seen it i've now had my own garage on the go for five and a half years and only ever seen it on the A3, if the belt has been replaced has nobody even put a mark on the crank pulley to save looking at the flywheel when they were doing it, has the timing definately jumped as well as they usually bend valves if they jump and i take it your car was still running? The only timing marks from VW on that engine code are usually only on the flywheel though so with your solid flywheel it looks like you are out of luck. Best of luck with the repair though mate.
sorry fella, ran outta time last nite, will sort tonight for you.
agreed alan the only crank timing marks are in the fly, are you sure it didn't have any on chimp?
chimp007_uk
23-09-10, 01:58 PM
Well...
Bit of progress, I took 3 solid flywheel kits apart at work and measured the timing marks, all are in the same place, so I lined my flywheel up and found the faintest mark! Hurrah! Put a dab of tipex on it.
Now, if I line up the crank with the timing marks on the g/box, the pump and cam are out. When the cam is set up, the pump is spot on... Hence now why I feel the crank is out. It looks like 1 tooth.
My only concern is if all the flywheels are marked incorrectly and the timin is fine. I have turned the engine over several times by hand and there are no knocks or locking up. Is there a mark on the crank once you take off the drive belt damper pulley? I see some crank locking tools have marks on them!?
Cheers guys!!
Hi mate, i've just had a look the instructions i printed off, it seems there's only a mark on the fly. the crank locking tools are only for the pd. i seem to remember some do have some marks on the pulley though, have a good look. have you removed the vac pump? there's a tool that locks the cam off too. I would find it hard to beleive that the marks on the flat flywheel conversions would be out?
probably time to remove #1 injector and gently place a metal skewer in the hole & then find tdc...
craig green
23-09-10, 10:07 PM
I know feck all here, but like the GM damped pullies, are the marks on them not to be trusted?
chimp007_uk
23-09-10, 11:00 PM
I've just got in from 3hours in the rain and cold... I'm soooo cold right now!
Can't get the timing sorted!! I ended up buying an AST timing tool kit from work :( I'd rather not say how much it was.
John, you're right, on mine you can't lock the crank, there is no physical fixings to screw anything into. And, again no timing marks on the pulley itself, had a good look with a mirror to be 100%.
Craig, there is a mark on the damped pulley, but there appears to be no marks on the timing cover. Have had it off and inspected.
if I lock the cam and pump using the correct tools :p I then slackened off the tensioner and removed it, allowing me to move the crank round so the flywheel marks line up (at the same time i removed no. 1 glowplug and it does appear to be TDC). Now when I tension up the belt the crank goes out... :mad: So i thinks... I'll put it one tooth back and it still goes out.
Am I being stupid?!
put it 2 teeth back, or get a mate top hold the fly with a screwdriver.
chimp007_uk
24-09-10, 11:07 AM
I'm a loner... :(
Not going to be able to try anything till sunday afternoon now, it's my GF's bday next Wed, so off to Coventry on the train tonight...
Might look at cars this weekend as a fall back! Need to sort something, as relying on a work colleague to drive from Romford to St Albans and then to Wembley...
Been eying up a 2litre 16valve P Reg Vectra Auto, 12months MOT no Tax, 100K, with Towbar. £499.
Opinions?
vec auto, no ta, sensors and duff gearboxes. there was a tasty carlton diamond est on auto trader for 380 with mot and tax.
chimp007_uk
24-09-10, 11:17 AM
Fair enough... I'll avoid. I need something local to Coventry really, GF wont drive me miles. Pref something with a towbar as a back up for getting the Nova to the track in October.
Sensors are 'fine' its jsut the unloved ones that are gash.
and I've never head of any GM auto boxes having any major issues..
Sloth wrong FTW lol
I'd not touch a petrol auto unless it was a V8 RWD thing, but thats for fun reasons
Stu, We Used To Sell The Af20 Autoboxes Hand Over Fist At The Breakers I Was At, They Like To Eat Themselves.... They Need Regular Fluid Changes....
chimp007_uk
24-09-10, 01:22 PM
Soo... The auto is ok or not?!! Change the oil and go? Not looking for anything fancy, just something to tie me over for a few weeks couple of months at most... And then sell on for a little loss.
Looking through Autotrader, theres mondeos, vectras and lagunas... French :gay:
brainsnova
24-09-10, 01:31 PM
what about a honda civic hatch good engines and gearboxes.
buy this, set of cam covers jobs a goodun, 12 months mot and 6mths tax. win
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201037367956242/sort/priceasc/usedcars/price-to/500/radius/30/postcode/al38jp/page/3?logcode=p
or this, as they keep their value.
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201037368241890/sort/priceasc/usedcars/price-to/500/postcode/al38jp/radius/30/page/5?logcode=p
Stu, We Used To Sell The Af20 Autoboxes Hand Over Fist At The Breakers I Was At, They Like To Eat Themselves.... They Need Regular Fluid Changes....
people in the uk think oil only goes in one thing, the engine...... the boxes are fine, they just need a regular service
EXACTLY, THE POINT I (BADLY) MADE WAS, BECAUSE PEEPS DONT CHANGE IT, THEY EAT THE BOX. oops caps.... hence why id avoid it unless it has a decent s/h
PAH...decent service history & a vauxhall dealer aren't things that sit easily in the same sentence
vaux and "sealed for life" gearboxes lol
same as the bmw ones that they now admit need a change.... ooopsie....
chimp007_uk
24-09-10, 02:20 PM
vaux and "sealed for life" gearboxes lol
So you can't change the oil?
What would I need to look out for? Not owned an auto, but fancied something for easy motorway driving :)
you can but most people don't bother.....
look at an f13... where's the drain bung???
So you can't change the oil?
What would I need to look out for? Not owned an auto, but fancied something for easy motorway driving :)
lol, auto's come into their own in traffic. On a motorway, there is no difference lol
I found it as hard, if not harder work in traffic with my omega.... you still 'should' knock it into N/P or you are sat on the brake all the time and it kills yer leg
chimp007_uk
25-09-10, 08:11 PM
Quick update.... Non Golf related.
Purchased a cheep run about, up for £450 with MOT till May 2011 and tax till Nov 2010, near full service history, not a spot of rust... Needs a good mop as it's a slightly faded red :p new tyres and exhaust, AC even works... :)
109k miles 3 door 1996 2litre NA Petrol
Paid £375 woohoo
big :gay: hug to the one who guesses th car. Now just needs a tow bar!
iety2004
25-09-10, 09:54 PM
Why didnt you just MOT the Nova in your lock up?? Shocking
Gives us a clue, what make is it at least?
for a punt in the dark, im gonna say, Saab 900
chimp007_uk
26-09-10, 01:18 AM
Why didnt you just MOT the Nova in your lock up?? Shocking
Gives us a clue, what make is it at least?
for a punt in the dark, im gonna say, Saab 900
Hahaha someones been reading my Facebook Gar... Firstly the red nova doesn't run right. Needs leads and bits etc. Secondly, yes it is a Saab 900. Just need to find a tow bar for it now...
chimp007_uk
03-10-10, 12:13 PM
Finally got a new cambelt and tensioner fitted yesterday and bolted everything back up. Fired it up this morning, and it runs... However there is a tapping sound, believed to be from No. 3... Think there might have been some valve damage when the mount initially snapped. Checked the timing 3 times and it's all spot on.
Looks like a new engine after all... Anyone know of any good places that will collect, fit and return? Found a couple on ebay around the £1200-£1500 mark. Part of me think sscrap the car, but I can't afford to lose all the money I've spent on it :(
Suggestions appreciated!
but can you afford to slpash out another £1.5k ? sometime you have to draw a line and stop throwing good money after bad
and dont tell al youve got a saab - he's still after one lol
chimp007_uk
03-10-10, 12:39 PM
but can you afford to slpash out another £1.5k ? sometime you have to draw a line and stop throwing good money after bad
and dont tell al youve got a saab - he's still after one lol
He wants the 2.3 turbo. Mine's just a gutless 2litre NA.
It's frustrating with the golf. If i sell it, I doubt it'll make £1000, yet I just spent £700 one bits and having it all fitted.
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