L14MNP
07-09-10, 01:38 PM
As copied from Turbobricks:
Hi guys, I am having a nightmare since swapping this LH2.4 B230FK into my 1984 360.
Here's my latest issue. The car is difficult to start, it will usually just turn over with no attempt to fire on the first attempt, then any attempt after that will usually result in it firing up but cutting straight out, before even having a chance to idle. When i eventually get it away (sometimes requires a little acc to balance it out before it will idle) it sounds as though it is running on 3 cylinders. It feels like it is too!
The car will then drive very crap, stuttering etc until slightly warm, then it will behave normally on very very partial throttle. Anything else and it will do the above.
I initially thought it was, but having tested it I now know all 4 are working fine. as well as testing for a strong spark and testing the coil, I have tested the TPS and the AMM. All are well. The injectors seem fine, and no leaks from inlet or IC piping.
I have replaced the following:
CPS (due to it previously melting on the EGR pipe. I repaired it but thought maybe it wasn't sufficient.) Also, 3 of the wires from the loom were damaged, but re-soldered. I'm not sure what they do as I never traced them back.)
plugs
HT leads
distributor cap
rotor arm
EZK module/ignition amplifier (due to a previous need)
oxygen sensor, gen Bosch.
The replaced parts are between 50-800 miles old, so should be fine.
The o2 sensor was the latest purchase. I was pretty convinced it was at fault given that i was getting no reading from the multi meter, and the car ran the same with it unplugged and everything else ignition related etc has been replaced.
I am yet to test the CPS. How do I do this?
Also, since the engine has been swapped into another chassis, I do not have the OBD plug working at present. I attempted to read the codes but it says no vehicle found.
Any ideas guys? My exhaust is pretty crap ATM, and blows on the join from downpipe-turbo. Could this be playing a part? I haven't had a chance to improve it yet what with blowing oil returns off and general non-start issues. It's a stock B230FK with the EGR removed. (I found removing it caused no issues, and then a couple days later this problem surfaced)
I would reinstate it, but I cut up the pipework.
The car runs the same with the o2 sensor unplugged, knock sensor or CTS. Surely this isn't right?
I am sick as hell. I was hoping to be running 12psi by now.
One other thing. I am currently running a smaller fuel pump than specified, but it has been fine for weeks now (since the conversion) I have a B230 OEM spec one to fit but am waiting on a few fittings. Surely if it was the pump at fault then it would just stop altogether? Removing the feed from the rail and priming the pump it seems to flow as much as it ever has. I want to get the new one on to rule this out. Is it possible to pressure test all rails? Mine doesn't have the valve on it.
Thanks, Liam.
Hi guys, I am having a nightmare since swapping this LH2.4 B230FK into my 1984 360.
Here's my latest issue. The car is difficult to start, it will usually just turn over with no attempt to fire on the first attempt, then any attempt after that will usually result in it firing up but cutting straight out, before even having a chance to idle. When i eventually get it away (sometimes requires a little acc to balance it out before it will idle) it sounds as though it is running on 3 cylinders. It feels like it is too!
The car will then drive very crap, stuttering etc until slightly warm, then it will behave normally on very very partial throttle. Anything else and it will do the above.
I initially thought it was, but having tested it I now know all 4 are working fine. as well as testing for a strong spark and testing the coil, I have tested the TPS and the AMM. All are well. The injectors seem fine, and no leaks from inlet or IC piping.
I have replaced the following:
CPS (due to it previously melting on the EGR pipe. I repaired it but thought maybe it wasn't sufficient.) Also, 3 of the wires from the loom were damaged, but re-soldered. I'm not sure what they do as I never traced them back.)
plugs
HT leads
distributor cap
rotor arm
EZK module/ignition amplifier (due to a previous need)
oxygen sensor, gen Bosch.
The replaced parts are between 50-800 miles old, so should be fine.
The o2 sensor was the latest purchase. I was pretty convinced it was at fault given that i was getting no reading from the multi meter, and the car ran the same with it unplugged and everything else ignition related etc has been replaced.
I am yet to test the CPS. How do I do this?
Also, since the engine has been swapped into another chassis, I do not have the OBD plug working at present. I attempted to read the codes but it says no vehicle found.
Any ideas guys? My exhaust is pretty crap ATM, and blows on the join from downpipe-turbo. Could this be playing a part? I haven't had a chance to improve it yet what with blowing oil returns off and general non-start issues. It's a stock B230FK with the EGR removed. (I found removing it caused no issues, and then a couple days later this problem surfaced)
I would reinstate it, but I cut up the pipework.
The car runs the same with the o2 sensor unplugged, knock sensor or CTS. Surely this isn't right?
I am sick as hell. I was hoping to be running 12psi by now.
One other thing. I am currently running a smaller fuel pump than specified, but it has been fine for weeks now (since the conversion) I have a B230 OEM spec one to fit but am waiting on a few fittings. Surely if it was the pump at fault then it would just stop altogether? Removing the feed from the rail and priming the pump it seems to flow as much as it ever has. I want to get the new one on to rule this out. Is it possible to pressure test all rails? Mine doesn't have the valve on it.
Thanks, Liam.