View Full Version : Diesel Headgasket
Since I found the copy of my Haynes manual that I actually know the location of sat in a puddle in the front of the garage today... diesel headgaskets, much the same as a petrol to do or is there some funky diesel related things going on that I haven't got a clue about? Can you do it with all the manifolds etc on?
it is dead simple to do a diesel as there are usually less components... which model is it??
craig green
06-09-10, 07:46 PM
I guess it's covered in the Corsa manual.
I guess it's covered in the Corsa manual.
strange enough I havent got one of those to hand either lol
ill have a look in the timing belt book as that should give the head bolt torques at least. do you know about the locking the timing?
ill have a look in the timing belt book as that should give the head bolt torques at least. do you know about the locking the timing?
Anything diesel I have not got a bloody clue lol
ok i fail, they only cover the petrol engines lol.
anyway basically when you line the timing marks up you will notice a hole in the fuel pump pulley and cam pulley line up with a threaded hole in the pump and head. bolts from the cover fit these holes to lock the pulleys in place
ok i fail, they only cover the petrol engines lol.
anyway basically when you line the timing marks up you will notice a hole in the fuel pump pulley and cam pulley line up with a threaded hole in the pump and head. bolts from the cover fit these holes to lock the pulleys in place
that is funking awesome :d After that its a simple head gasket swap like any other I assume? Might just do belt at the same time as I dont know the history of it.
Hopefully the water use is the reason it doesn't wanna boost properly and needs the idle winding all the way to idle at 1k!
edit: So even if I find the other nova haynes I got then I'm still lost then :p Should be able to get torqueing figures from the factors though
that is funking awesome :d After that its a simple head gasket swap like any other I assume? Might just do belt at the same time as I dont know the history of it.
Hopefully the water use is the reason it doesn't wanna boost properly and needs the idle winding all the way to idle at 1k!
edit: So even if I find the other nova haynes I got then I'm still lost then :p Should be able to get torqueing figures from the factors though
yes it should be and if you dont know the history as far as the belt then yes deffinetly do that as well.
nope the nova haynes doesnt cover them, not sure if any of the haynes manuals do to be honest. ill get sam to get the torque figures off auto data
yes it should be and if you dont know the history as far as the belt then yes deffinetly do that as well.
nope the nova haynes doesnt cover them, not sure if any of the haynes manuals do to be honest. ill get sam to get the torque figures off auto data
Burgo you are indeed a legend, I actually just got the torque figures off chimp thought, didn't even ask for them! :p I shall grab a head gasket and give it a crack tomorrow :) might clean it off a bit and get a head set actually, think the rocker is leaking (as well as a few other places really lol)
Burgo you are indeed a legend, I actually just got the torque figures off chimp thought, didn't even ask for them! :p I shall grab a head gasket and give it a crack tomorrow :) might clean it off a bit and get a head set actually, think the rocker is leaking (as well as a few other places really lol)woulda been nice to wack on an n/a inlet whilst you were at it
woulda been nice to wack on an n/a inlet whilst you were at it
Tempting, wanna check scrappies for a turbo anyway... You need piping etc for the NA inlet though right?
Tempting, wanna check scrappies for a turbo anyway... You need piping etc for the NA inlet though right?well yes its worth doing a front mount and n/a inlet at the same time and sorting the pipework to suit
Yeah not really something I was planning tbh, insurance is an issue this year as I parked in the back end of a right cow last year who is squeezing the claim for all she can get (still ongoing from may as she thinks of more stuff to add to it!) and it's also just a daily, saving for the other nova really :)
what do u need to get/do to fit the n/a inlet then? whats the benefit?
chimp007_uk
07-09-10, 03:04 PM
Edited.
Let me know the type of HG and engine number. along with reg ;)
No wonder they're so bloody expensive, MLS :( Nearest factors want £32.50 for one
You can leave the turbo on the engine, that will save you 2 hours of swearing, you just need to undo the stabliser bar for the turbo, pull the inlet off and injector pipes, take the 5 pipes and 2 plugs of the stat housing, remove glow plug wire, then just time up as burgo said ( use the 8 mm exhaust studs :D) then theres 2 6mm bolts for the top of the timing cover,.. BTW the cam sprocket has to come off!
Fairly easy really! I did mine last week.
I was hoping to undo the head bolts lift it all up and slide the gasket in lol
pikey way/\ what if the heads warped or cracked?
also there is a haynes, its the haynes vauxhall/opel diesel engine book, ill try to find a link.
scha-winnng!
http://www.haynes.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=13227&langID=-1
chimp007_uk
07-09-10, 05:45 PM
Burgo you are indeed a legend, I actually just got the torque figures off chimp thought, didn't even ask for them! :p I shall grab a head gasket and give it a crack tomorrow :) might clean it off a bit and get a head set actually, think the rocker is leaking (as well as a few other places really lol)
The infamous and handy, Vauxhall/GM technical Technicians Manual... :thumb:
Well didn't actually get round to it today as they're far more expensive than I thought and I need to wait for some cash to drop, but cheers for all the help peoples :d
How do you make sure timing is correct on the crank when you do this, as theres no way to lock it? Just hope it doesn't move? lol
Went for hope it doesn't move on the crank as theres nothing to lock it and the belt wraps round anyways, kept it tight to the pump.
Anyways, I now have issues lifting the head, everything apart from the inlet is off as I don't see that obstructing anything? but it's still stubborn as and won't shift a millimetre with me jumping about on it.
I've got the cam pulley off, turbo is on the manifold but exhaust is off, injector pipes are off, glow plug lead, the waterways to the right of the engine on the stat are off, head bolts are off :p and the thing the alt connects to, couldn't see if that bolted on further down as well so took that off too.
have another good look around it and see if there are any hidden bolts, and check the belt tensioner isnt bolted to both the head and block, iiirc there isa gm engine that is...
Tensioner is too low afaik, will check though, had a look round it and can't see anything.
Right there is a large mount on the turbo, hard to see but thats in the way, have you got all the water pipes off the turbo?
Right there is a large mount on the turbo, hard to see but thats in the way, have you got all the water pipes off the turbo?
Right ok, I did see stabilising bar on your list, but like you say I couldn't see it, so I assumed I was not in the lucky GM parts bin for that one or someone has robbed it at some point in its life lol I didn't think there was any water feeds on the turbo? Just oil feed and return?
give the head a tap with a RUBBER mallet....
There are 3 water feeds to the back, onw goes to the water pump the others to the stat housing :)
I will get a photo mate..
Water pipes bolt here
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz102/balley77/Nova%20TD%20Project/DSC00703.jpg
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz102/balley77/Nova%20TD%20Project/DSC00702.jpg
And theres the bracket
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz102/balley77/Nova%20TD%20Project/DSC00704.jpg
Would be much easier just to un bolt the manifold nuts and take the studs out and lift the head up... that how I do it any way!
Manifold on/off was like a full day job on my E16 as it had all corroded up, and I dont think this has been touched in its 150k mile grandma and grandpa owned life, so the manifold studs scare me lol
Cover all the manifold nuts in WD40 and then clean up the studs, be careful, if it starts to feel ****, stop doing it.
hit the end with a hammer, no more than 3 times but a very hard hit dead on the middle of the stud
use heat on manifold nuts. or cut the nuts off
or get some plusgas!!!!!!
right head came off, new gasket in etc, all seems to be flat although the last headgasket was a mess, we'll see how it goes... anyway, the pump timing is still locked, with the belt wrapped round it and the crank is in -_ _- that kinda position on the pistons which to me implies it's locked in the correct place... however the locked position on 4 is fully open on one of the valves! I forgot to lock the cam sprocket before I put the head on so it's obviously moved, tried to rotate it to the right position and it wouldn't go so to avoid new head bolt situation I took the cam caps off to rotate it but putting it back to the same locked position is quite obviously wrong, but I don't see how :/
Car was moved yesterday but obviously I made sure it was out of gear, and I can't see how it would have rotated all the way round without mashing the valves, but I assume this must be the reason it's wrong. Is there a 'lock' position on the crank I can put it in to check?
There is a line on the bottom pulley,.. did you not give it the tipex treatment..
There is a line on the bottom pulley,.. did you not give it the tipex treatment..
I'll have a look tomorrow, any idea where it lines up to? No I didn't as I thought it was all locked! There's no way the head can be wrong though so it must be the crank.
Seems it was the crank that had moved, no idea how but it had, but now the timing won't line up, is there only the one tooth that it will fully turn over on? As there's no markings I can see on the cambelt cover so I'll have to do it by trial and error. Given up on it for today tbh as it's stopped me going to combe and if I mess about with it any more its gonna end up with the petrol tank out of my old shell in it with a rag sticking out the filler on fire.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz102/balley77/DSC00746.jpg
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz102/balley77/DSC00745.jpg
The key lines up with the arrow aboth...
My crank doesn't look anything like that :wtf: it's got a pin locator like an 8v cam, and the aux belt goes on with 4 bolts
yeah mines the same, take the pulley off :D,... the big bolt in the middle..
tom reid
11-09-10, 06:34 PM
Lesson to be learned here, mark every pulley to the block or timing cover before you start.
yeah mines the same, take the pulley off :D,... the big bolt in the middle..
Aha, I did find a timing mark on the pulley also, but it doesn't work for the engine :tard: Can only get it so close from either direction and it locks against the cam, even freeing the cam off, manoeuvring the crank to the right place and trying to turn the cam back doesn't work! will whack that large bolt off now...
And yeah Tom, believe me I won't be relying on the timing marks on an engine ever again!
Right that nut won't shift, breaker bar bends/rolls the car from the wheel to the bumper without it cracking off, so it's soaking in WD atm
...but if the thing the pulley is mounted on is keyway'd, and there's a pin for the pulley, the timing mark I found on the pulley (theres a pin that locates into the empty hole at the bottom right of Balley's pic to line it up with) should work surely? Which, although the position of the valves at this point fits with it not moving at all in that it locks before it gets there and I couldn't get the head on with the pistons in what looked like the right position, unless I'm missing a half inch spacer on the head, how the hell does it time up without the valves smacking the piston? :tard:
Right that nut is proper, proper stuck, as in rolling the car in 5th on the handbrake stuck, yanked it up as hard as it will go and just can't get enough on it with a 24" breaker bar.
So, should be able to time it up from the bottom pulley surely?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v471/MK999/Nova/Pulley.jpg
Heres the pulley I'm working with, the arrowed notch is what looks like the timing mark, to the right of that is another, can't decide whether that looks like a timing mark or impact damage. I have tried one notch either way with the timing (marked with lines) which still hit the valves. I'll try that other 'mark' in a bit, just wondered if anyone had any gen on the 'dimples' thought they were for balancing but given what I think is a timing mark lies in the middle of 2, and they're the same depth/in the same area I think they're timing related?
Right the locater pin on the Bottom pulley which you can't get off wants to point up^^ :D that will be dead on then!
Just sell the car to me then I can have the only restored SX TD in the world :D
So the keyway and the pin line up exactly?
yeah mate :D... I want a drink out of this btw Lmao
sweet, I'll give that a go see what happens.
Well, that way lines up with the timing mark I already tried, which hit the valves, so head is locked, crank is correct, and its hitting something is obviously very wrong. Looking at the cam sprocket, I see 3 symmetrical bolts on a common PCD, with a locator pin. The issue is all of a sudden rather clear, I am, a mong.
Cam sprocket on the wrong way round, is very much FTL. In my defence I put it on the way round that makes most sense, with the removable guard on the outer side of the engine to make cam belt removal/changing a bit easier. Just need to get a new belt tomorrow as I damaged this one pulling it on and off so many times and it should finally time up.
How do people normally change the belts on this engine out of interest? Slide it over the pump sprocket? Loosening the tensioner doesn't give anywhere near enough to put it over the top of the guards on the cam sprocket since that removable part is on the inner side of the engine
Its a bit of a struggle, put it on half way all the way round if you can (i know the cam has a lip)
Its a bit of a struggle, put it on half way all the way round if you can (i know the cam has a lip)
I struggled to do that with it on the wrong way round tbh! tensioner doesn't seem to slacken off enough to allow that, I think the only way would be to put the cam belt on then slip the pulley onto the cam and get a bolt in it. Be so much easier if it fitted the way round I thought looked better lol
Lmao, live and learn aye, we all **** up :D
chimp007_uk
12-09-10, 08:58 PM
Glad you worked out... Had to be something simple! I want to hear that you're up and smoking tonorrow lol
Glad you worked out... Had to be something simple! I want to hear that you're up and smoking tonorrow lol
Should be, headgasket was properly funked and the exhaust one is not looking much more clever, so hopefully I'll find a psi or 2 of lost boost too lol
tom reid
13-09-10, 03:50 PM
So did you strip the head and check the guides?,
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.