Mk1 Small Block Road Rally/Hillclimb Car

[mk1nova_rich]

Decided to start a new project thread for my Mk1 as i have been too undecided about which direction i wanted to go with it. Anyhow I have made my mind up to just use it as a motorsport and track car, hopefully building it just to compete in road rally events and the occasional hillclimbs and trackdays with very little road use.

I haven't put much thought into the engine spec as i want to get all the shell prep done first, but is most likely going to be a 1400 8 valve to keep within the regulations for the above motorsport disciplines.

I'm hoping to build it into a competitive little car but keeping within the regulations laid out in the MSA Blue Book for both sports, which prohibits the fitting of things like bias pedal boxes and rose-jointed suspension setups, so I will really be aiming to get the most out of the original Nova layout.

Anyway the first task is to get all the bodywork sorted and any other bits and pieces that need welding or cutting. This will include brackets and spreader plates for the cage, seats and harnesses etc.

A few pictures as it stands now:

[mk1nova_rich]

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/BareFrontEnd.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/BackEnd.jpg

The engine bay has been completely stripped now with the exception of the gearbox which i put back in as part of my Cavalier internal shifter conversion.

Overall the shell is still a good one, but it has a few bad bits:
Front panel around the headlights (passenger side has already had some attention
Rear chassis rails need a couple of plates but still good
Passenger side sill has a 2 inch hole in it
Rear panel as seen in the photo
The floorpan is also going where it meets the heelboard (just in front of the tank)


You can probably also notice that the firewall has been cut out and the battery tray has been cut and reinforced for a Corsa pedal and MC conversion

[peester]

good stuff, look forward to progress
needs moving to projects tho lol

[mk1nova_rich]

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/InnerWing.jpg


Both inner wings are still in good condition with no work required. Need to get the black underseal stripped off the arches though to check nothing nasty is hiding underneath. I took my wing off and started sanding it down with my new orbital sander I got the other day. Also started the petrol tank and had a bit of spraying practice because I'm hoping to do as much of the bodywork myself as I can

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/SandingWing.jpg

Found a couple of small holes along the bottom but will probably fill these rather than trying to source another wing, plus I'm not trying to create a concourse show winner lol

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/SandingTank.jpg

Just had a bit of practice priming part of the tank. I may look into sourcing a better condition tank as you can see the rust is quite severe at the right hand end on both sides of the tank :(

[mk1nova_rich]

Cheers Spudly :thumb:

[Daved and Confused]

Hi,

Not had a good look at the Blue book lately but I thought you weren't allowed to modify the bulkhead - is cutting a hole for the corsa set up not modifying the bulkhead ?
Also the bias box, what is the issue with that ?
I know brakes cannot be adjusted from the drivers seat but that's not to say a bias box cannot be fitted without the dash adjuster. my interpretation maybe wrong.
Are you running in road car class or modified ?
Good luck with the build, I'll keep a look out for progress.

[mk1nova_rich]

Im focusing more towards the road rallying, i need to have another read up on the regulations for hillclimbs as they are quite a bit stricter in terms of modifications to the body and the removal of trim. I know that a heater will have to go back in to satisfy the modified production car class

[mk1nova_rich]

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/BumpersAndDash.jpg

Most of the parts have been stripped off the car so that i can concentrate on the bodywork but unfortunately i have nowhere else at the minute to store bigger bits like the seats, radiator, dash and bumpers :( which is putting a bit of a hold on the project

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/InteriorMess.jpg

Removed the complete wiring loom and now stripped all the unnecessary wiring and labelled everything up ready to go back in. The main cable from the battery needs re-routing though as the battery will be relocated to the boot and will sit on a Corsa battery tray which will be welded in. This is about as far as I have got so far except for the work on the internal shifter

[mk1nova_rich]

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/Teardrops.jpg

Matt_Vaughan brought me 6 GTE teardrop alloys over last weekend in a cash swap for a homemade bike carb manifold. A lot of people dont like these wheels but I'm a big fan of them - i now have 10 of them!!! lol

Which means i have two full sets of 5 wheels which can be fitted with different tyres for different surface types. Going to have a go at prepping and painting some of them in next couple of weeks. What colours to go for?!

[novarally]

That's a first for me......I can't recall ever having seen a wood-effect steering wheel on a Nova before!

[Rickyb]

im loving the plans il be watching this.

[mk1nova_rich]

it was already in my previous Nova along with the 6 bolt boss which was obviously worth keeping lol but the wheel will be binned in favour of sumat decent, just kept it to keep the shell moveable

[dj_wudgey]

it was already in my previous Nova along with the 6 bolt boss which was obviously worth keeping lol but the wheel will be binned in favour of sumat decent, just kept it to keep the shell moveable

glad to hear that matey lol

[MK999]

That's a first for me......I can't recall ever having seen a wood-effect steering wheel on a Nova before!

Especially not with a tight-corner-knob for grandad on it lol

[mk1nova_rich]

Especially not with a tight-corner-knob for grandad on it lol


Spaz knob lol i used it for an autotest last year!!

[mk1nova_rich]

Thought i would post a brief spec of what im aiming for:

Stitch-welded shell with welded in rear brace
6 point bolt in cage
Sparco buckets and harnesses
Rear seats and door trim retained as per regs
Heated front screen
Polycarbonate windows (if permitted)
Battery moved to boot
Digital trip meter
Fire extinguisher (plumbed in kit if funds allow)
Quick rack

Gaz suspension kit (Golds depending on funds) and eccentric top mounts
Polybushed throughout
GTE tie bars and plated TCAs
Two rear ARBs (Nova + Mk2 Astra)

Corsa pedal and M/C conversion
Brake and fuel lines run through car with braided flexis
Hydraulic handbrake and bias valve
2.0 front brakes

F10 close ratio box with 4.18/4.53 FD
Competition mounts
Internal shift direct to box

1400 8 valve (full spec to be decided)
Facet 12v fuel pump
Sportex competition system

This is all i can think of for now but will add to list if i think of anything :thumb:

[matt_vaughan]

How are you managing to fit the Mk2 Astra Anti-roll bar Rich?

[walrusmk1]

sounds like a good spec mate, good luck

[philip]

be nice to see motor spec:D

[mk1nova_rich]

How are you managing to fit the Mk2 Astra Anti-roll bar Rich?

I'm sure its the Mk2 Astra one that can be fitted underneath the beam if you weld a few brackets onto the beam...maybe a Cav one im thinking of, will need to investigate.

Off to do a bit more clearing out on that garage in Brighouse at the weekend, can't wait to get the shell moved in there for the winter :cool: least i will be able to get stuff done somewhere dry and fairly warm. Will try and get some pictures of it while i am there.

[mk1nova_rich]

be nice to see motor spec:D

Well im thinking of boring a 1300 out to take 12ST pistons to make a nice high compression 1396cc, then if necessary machine the pistons so that the CR is somewhere in the region of 10.5 - 11:1. Don't want to take it too high as i want the engine to be a nice compromise between performance and reliability/durability.

Then this is a rough sort of spec of what I'm going for:

Bottom end lighten and balance
Lightweight steel flywheel
ARPs
New oil and water pumps
New bearings/gaskets/bolts etc
Worked head
4 branch OR worked SR manifold and downpipe
Mk1 Astra inlet
Weber 34/32 carb
Cam to be decided

Your input and advice would be great :thumb:

[matt_vaughan]

Rich, you thought about using an 1.4/1.6 MPi head to bring compression down a bit? Cheaper and would also benefit from larger valves. Not sure how it would go down with regulations mind.

[mk1nova_rich]

Rich, you thought about using an 1.4/1.6 MPi head to bring compression down a bit? Cheaper and would also benefit from larger valves. Not sure how it would go down with regulations mind.

i think that may take the CR down too much Matt, and also brings issues of different port shapes and getting manifolds to suit. I don't think scrutineers pick up on stuff like that lol its probably permitted anyway... even if its not the hybrid 1400 wouldnt be either!

[mk1nova_rich]

As some of you may have seen i started an internal shift conversion but bypassing the Nova linkage and running direct to the gearbox with a custom linkage and lever. If not here is the thread for the first part of it

http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=153889&page=7

I will then carry on details and pictures of this in this build thread :thumb:

[mk1nova_rich]

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/BulkheadHoleOpened.jpg

I opened up the hole i had drilled in the bulkhead for the linkage to pass through, I had run out of jigsaw blades so did it pikey-style with a grinder and cutting disc lol this was done to try and straighten up the route of the shifter rod from the lever to the gearbox. I was also looking at clearance under the linkage as it is now and i think that i will be able to move it down around 15mm from where it is now to still clear the steering rack.

I get paid tomorrow so I am going to order the spherical bearings for the shifter box and bulkhead and also some alloy tube for the actual shifter rod. Decided on 20mm O/D which should be sturdy enough for the job and i will have no trouble getting the bearings for this size.

[SR-Rally]

Polycarbs are aloud in road rallying regs although your nav will hate you as will make his job harder! I fitted electric window for nav as we get through controls alot quicker without him messing about

[mk1nova_rich]

Polycarbs are aloud in road rallying regs although your nav will hate you as will make his job harder! I fitted electric window for nav as we get through controls alot quicker without him messing about

Yeh just need to check about which class i would be in for hillclimbs and whether they are permitted for that. May just leave standard windows in for now and fit polycarbs when the car is up and running. Are you allowed to open the door at controls or not?

[SR-Rally]

yeah you can open the door just will loose few seconds as time it takes your nav plus all marshalls go straight to window and get in way of opening door lol

[bazil]

I'm sure its the Mk2 Astra one that can be fitted underneath the beam if you weld a few brackets onto the beam...maybe a Cav one im thinking of, will need to investigate.

Off to do a bit more clearing out on that garage in Brighouse at the weekend, can't wait to get the shell moved in there for the winter :cool: least i will be able to get stuff done somewhere dry and fairly warm. Will try and get some pictures of it while i am there.

its a mk2 asrta gte one mate, ive had this done om my gsi, when i get the rear beam of ill get pics for you

[mk1nova_rich]

its a mk2 asrta gte one mate, ive had this done om my gsi, when i get the rear beam of ill get pics for you

cheers pal, that would be great :thumb:

[mk1nova_rich]

Right, no real updates as i have been busy with work and weather has been truly crapwhen I have been free but my latest purchase has been a reconditioned steering rack with 2.1 lock to lock internals... how much harder are quick racks to turn than a standard rack, as I may have to look into fitting EPAS?!?

Also been wire-brushing my front outer wings and I think another pair will need sourcing as they are quite crusty underneath the paint close to the rear edges. Bit of a bugger really as I thought they looked ok :(

[Jakey Boy]

Hey dude, thanks for the good seller rep :thumb:

Just had a ganders through your project thread.
With regards to whether you need EPAS, I should fit the rack and try it out before you go to the bother of fitting an EPAS column. As long as you don't fit a tiny steering wheel I reckon it won't be so bad once you're going faster than car park speeds + I assume this project won't end up in use as a daily driver?
+ an EPAS unit is quite a heavy a lump to add in.
To keep weight down, as well as polycarbs...
(should save a good few kg's as standard glass all round is heavy stuff)
...are you aloud to de-iron the bumpers.
I've done it, really easy to do, takes a hour or so, all you need is a drill and a couple of pairs of bonnet clips (to do front and back) and when you strip the irons out you save a lot of weight + quick release bumpers :d

[mk1nova_rich]

Hey dude, thanks for the good seller rep :thumb:

Just had a ganders through your project thread.
With regards to whether you need EPAS, I should fit the rack and try it out before you go to the bother of fitting an EPAS column. As long as you don't fit a tiny steering wheel I reckon it won't be so bad once you're going faster than car park speeds + I assume this project won't end up in use as a daily driver?
+ an EPAS unit is quite a heavy a lump to add in.
To keep weight down, as well as polycarbs...
(should save a good few kg's as standard glass all round is heavy stuff)
...are you aloud to de-iron the bumpers.
I've done it, really easy to do, takes a hour or so, all you need is a drill and a couple of pairs of bonnet clips (to do front and back) and when you strip the irons out you save a lot of weight + quick release bumpers :d

Cheers for the input mate, i have been considering fitting the Corsa EPAS for a while but the extra weight and space issues under a Mk1 dash have been swaying me towards not bothering with it. Plus the car will not be used as a daily driver so there are no issues with parking difficulty and so on.

I have already de-ironed the bumpers and fitted quick release pins :p just you can't see because the bumpers are off.

[bakerznova]

good luck with the build matey !!
:thumb:

[mk1nova_rich]

Cheers pal, not really done much with it for over a week now :( but went down to my new storage last weekend to clean it out, couple more days down there and it should be ready for the Nova to go in over the winter - its attracting too much unwanted attention sat on the drive. Someone i know has a garage under their house which they dont use, so have let me use it long term free rent :d only downside is having to clean it out which was like sumat of Grimebusters lol getting there now though just need to get rid of a fridge and an old sofa and then im going to pressure wash the floor of it. Pics of the garage will be up when its fully cleaned :thumb:

[bakerznova]

[quote= Someone i know has a garage under their house which they dont use, so have let me use it long term free rent :d [/quote]

carnt beat that then matey, atleast it will be under cover from the cold
:thumb:

[mk1nova_rich]

yep, especially as the boiler is at one side and the hot water pipes run through it :d the roof is a bit low (around 6'5") and the doorway even lower but not gona get anything better without paying for it

[bakerznova]

yep, especially as the boiler is at one side and the hot water pipes run through it :d the roof is a bit low (around 6'5") and the doorway even lower but not gona get anything better without paying for it

:thumb:

[mk1nova_rich]

want to get it down there by end of October so i can really crack on with bodywork, especially tackling the crusty bits before they get worse and then prepping the shell for a respray :) gona be brilliant having somewhere warm and dry to work in over winter

[bakerznova]

want to get it down there by end of October so i can really crack on with bodywork, especially tackling the crusty bits before they get worse and then prepping the shell for a respray :) gona be brilliant having somewhere warm and dry to work in over winter

ye i dont like working in cold conditions , i need to start saving money to be spent on Sr, just havent got the funds to start yet and gotta get collecting bits for it but will get there in the end :thumb:

[mk1nova_rich]

ye i dont like working in cold conditions , i need to start saving money to be spent on Sr, just havent got the funds to start yet and gotta get collecting bits for it but will get there in the end :thumb:

I have set myself a target to have it completed by 1st Jan 2012 but lots of expensive bits to buy :( firstly i'm after a Corsa B to run around in over winter, starting to get a bit cold and dark on push bike...im a fair weather cyclist you see lol. Then also got the following expensive bits to buy before i can finish the bodywork as i need to cut and weld in spreader plates and brackets for them:

MIG welder
6 point rollcage
Bucket seats, side mounts and rail kits
4/5 point harnesses
Vertical lever hydraulic handbrake

[bakerznova]

I have set myself a target to have it completed by 1st Jan 2012 but lots of expensive bits to buy :( firstly i'm after a Corsa B to run around in over winter, starting to get a bit cold and dark on push bike...im a fair weather cyclist you see lol. Then also got the following expensive bits to buy before i can finish the bodywork as i need to cut and weld in spreader plates and brackets for them:

MIG welder
6 point rollcage
Bucket seats, side mounts and rail kits
4/5 point harnesses
Vertical lever hydraulic handbrake

:thumb: , i havent a clue when i starting on the sr

[mk1nova_rich]

:thumb: , i havent a clue when i starting on the sr

what did you use when you painted your arches? hoping to get underside sorted first as that obviously needs more attention than the rest of the shell

[bakerznova]

what did you use when you painted your arches? hoping to get underside sorted first as that obviously needs more attention than the rest of the shell


i used "hamerite grey stone chip"
was only about £3 + vat
they did it in, white,grey and black
before i brought it i didnt know what it was going to be like but i am really happy the way its come out to be honest and after i put the beige on after made the car look smarter even though you carnt see much of it when the wheels on but like i said i am happy with the way it came out, i would reconmend it :thumb:

[mk1nova_rich]

sounds good mate, i did read about you using it in your project thread, just wondered if it was any good. Do you spray it on bare metal or etch primer first??

[bakerznova]

sounds good mate, i did read about you using it in your project thread, just wondered if it was any good. Do you spray it on bare metal or etch primer first??

all i did was put my car on 4 axle stands, clean all the dirt out of the front and back arches, wait for to dry off, sprayed 1st coat of stonechip, then did second coat and then just used couple of coats of beige
:thumb:

[mk1nova_rich]

good stuff, i may have to etch primer then as i am going back to bare metal on the underside to check all rust is sorted out :thumb: once my Nova is in the garage its going on its side onto some tyres lol which will make it much easier to work on. I did want a rollover spit but its more money that i dont have

[bakerznova]

good stuff, i may have to etch primer then as i am going back to bare metal on the underside to check all rust is sorted out :thumb: once my Nova is in the garage its going on its side onto some tyres lol which will make it much easier to work on. I did want a rollover spit but its more money that i dont have

:thumb:

[bakerznova]

anyways
good luck mate
keep the pics coming
:thumb:

[Rickyb]

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/InteriorMess.jpg
if you fancy selling that steering wheel let us know pall i recon itll look mint on the old astra :d

[mk1nova_rich]

if you fancy selling that steering wheel let us know pall i recon itll look mint on the old astra :d

Yeh pal, no problems. I will get a close up picture of it for you today if you like?! Horn wiring will need sorting though and I won't be selling the 6 bolt boss for it :thumb:

[mk1nova_rich]

No real updates as I haven't really done much for a couple of weeks now. Was inspecting my front crossmember earlier, as it seems solid from the outside but the build up of rust flakes inside it suggests that its rotting away from the inside. I would appreciate some advice on the next step to take, here are a few pictures for you to see what i mean.

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/CrossmemberLeft.jpg

As you can in the big hole that the top layer is fine but its rotten away underneath.

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/CrossmemberRight.jpg

Same story at the other side really. The rust along the right hand side of the picture isnt as bad as it looks, just needs a good sand over.

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/CrossmemberInnerWing.jpg

Note the camera was upside down when this picture was taken. This is the worst bit that is visible which is directly below the inner wing where the crossmember meets, which I assume is a critical strutural point. As you can see it has rotten through and is in an area not easily accessible to weld a plate in.

Does it look bad enough to warrant fitting a new crossmember or will a bit of rust killer suffice for now? I suspect a new crossmember will be quite an involved an expensive job as I would need someone else to weld it in. Advice is very much appreciated, thanks :thumb:

[mk1nova_rich]

Would also like opinions on whether to use a 4 branch or the cast SR manifold and downpipe? I have heard good things about the standard kit when modified properly.

Still after some advice on my crossmember :)

[peester]

hmm, how would you feel to cutting it all out; is there a new one going cheap somewhere on the forums..? know someone that can weld ? - they could whizz along the inner wings n that then too..?
Those are the sort of things ide be thinking about if it was me

[dj_wudgey]

Would also like opinions on whether to use a 4 branch or the cast SR manifold and downpipe? I have heard good things about the standard kit when modified properly.

Still after some advice on my crossmember :)

id say go with the 4 branch me!! they may rust like fook if you get a ashly mild steel one but id use that over the standard sr manifould if i was you!!

[mk1nova_rich]

Yeh i already have a 4 branch but i have read that there are better gains to be had if the original item is ported out to match the head

[mk1nova_rich]

hmm, how would you feel to cutting it all out; is there a new one going cheap somewhere on the forums..? know someone that can weld ? - they could whizz along the inner wings n that then too..?
Those are the sort of things ide be thinking about if it was me

bodywork is not my strong point if im honest, and for a job like this would require finding someone willing to help. Where could i source a new crossmember from if that is the best option?

[mk1nova_rich]

The one day i have free to crack on with the Nova, its rained all day so again not much been done except for purchasing a few parts:

Quick rack (waiting for some poly bushes for it too)
Tie bar mount strengthening plates
Brand new 1.3 headset
Deep dish competition steering wheel from McGill Motorsport
Spherical bearings and alloy tube for the shifter rod

Hoping to crack on with the shifter rod a bit more this week but working late so not much time before its gets dark :(

[peester]

cool, wheres the alloy tube from..?
Just wanted to show you a post/pic of a front valence removed - looks like the face of it got drilled out - can get at the rust that way, or continue to remove if it all has to come out..
http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1682589&postcount=96

[mk1nova_rich]

Cheers for that link Peester, rep given. I will have to investigate but would rather wait until i get the shell in the garage before i start tackling bodywork

[peester]

any updates chap?

[satchellm]

This is looking good,same sorta end idea as what i want,bit of road rallying, 12 car,20/20 our club use quite a few whites and stuff so lots of lose surface. was useing my daily driver of a mk3 astra sport but just got myself a mk1 nova 88 3door 1 owner from new so far looks dam good for tin worm £400! time to start striping it! :-D

[SR-Rally]

This is looking good,same sorta end idea as what i want,bit of road rallying, 12 car,20/20 our club use quite a few whites and stuff so lots of lose surface. was useing my daily driver of a mk3 astra sport but just got myself a mk1 nova 88 3door 1 owner from new so far looks dam good for tin worm £400! time to start striping it! :-D

where are you from mate?

[mk1nova_rich]

any updates chap?

Not really done much recently or nothing worth reporting... just been filling some of the dents in the bodywork to get it looking a bit tidier and just practising general bodywork.

Been working on stripping and rebuilding my wiring loom also, from the handbrake sensor backwards is complete and stripped to the minimum now with no surplus wiring. I still need to finish the front half of the loom (which is obviously a lot more involved and time-consuming) and add a few bits in to cater for the fitting of digital tripmeter, spotlights, horn, Omex rev limiter etc, and replace any wiring that looks damaged or needs extending.

Surprisingly im finding the wiring is fairly easy when everything is laid out and labelled up and cant wait to get it finished. I have drawn up a diagram of how I want the wiring loom to be so i know what needs to go where and how long the wires want to be. The battery will be relocated to the boot so the cable will be taped into the loom and run along the bottom of the passenger door and up along the bulkhead to a distributor block under the dash which will then run to the main fusebox, an auxilliaries fusebox and to the starter motor. One of my mates runs a car audio shop so I will be able to get the battery cabling, connectors and distributor block sorted soon.

I also got myself a gas MIG welder to teach myself welding with so i can do my own bodywork instead of relying on somebody else to do it. A couple of hours practice on some scrap metal and i reckon it will be good enough to crack on with the Nova. Once I can start welding, this should spur progress along a bit and give me some much-needed motivation on the weekends where the weather is good. First on the list is to weld plates on the bulkhead over the holes from the brake master cylinder, heater pipes and blower, and also to weld a new strengthening plate in the battery tray for the Corsa brake pedal conversion.

Sorry it seems a bit long-winded and no pics of anything but I feel like I'm making progress when i write up on here lol

[peester]

wow, getting well stuck in by the sounds.. good luck with the welding.

[Rickyb]

any updates?

[mk1nova_rich]

any updates?

not done anything for weeks now :( too dark on an evening after work to do anything as I don't have a garage (yet) and I'm
either too busy at weekends or the weather is crap!! I have been practising my welding when I've had chance.

Today i enquired about a respray at a body shop close to where I work and have been quoted approx £300 for a flatting down
and a spray over with red, may also get him to do the engine bay as well. Before this happens I need to get all welding and
other bodywork sorted out, and seal the underside so I can get the shell rolling again ready for a respray.

[mk1nova_rich]

Just looking at the OBP 25% off Christmas discounts, it may be a good time to invest in a hydraulic handbrake so I can get the brackets
cut and welded into the shell. What master cylinder size is it best to run? Bearing in mind I will be fitting a bias valve in-line before the
handbrake

[Rickyb]

ive sent you a couple of pm's but had no reply?
this really needs finishing.

[mk1nova_rich]

yeh sorry pal, i have been away all weekend (didn't get home on Saturday like i had intended to) so have only been online on phone. Will do my absolute best to get them found tomorrow night :)

[Rickyb]

yeh sorry pal, i have been away all weekend (didn't get home on Saturday like i had intended to) so have only been online on phone. Will do my absolute best to get them found tomorrow night :)

cheers love il stop spamming your thread now haha but seriously this needs updates dude.

[mk1nova_rich]

i wish i had something to update it with :( lack of money, good weather and free time are slowing progress considerably!

[mk1nova_rich]

Just looking at the OBP 25% off Christmas discounts, it may be a good time to invest in a hydraulic handbrake so I can get the brackets
cut and welded into the shell. What master cylinder size is it best to run? Bearing in mind I will be fitting a bias valve in-line before the
handbrake

could still do with some help regarding the above, if any rally lads can assist? :d

[SR-Rally]

I run a 6.25 iirc for my handbrake, I use to have 6.75 but found 6.25 is better option. What bias valve are you planning on using? I have willwood one in a corsa here. I don't have bias valve in my orange nova, never felt I have the need for it, although the works nova does so I might have a play and see what it does :p

[mk1nova_rich]

ah cool, i take it you have T-pieced your rear lines into a single line through the handbrake and then split again at rear?

[SR-Rally]

Well I run a pedal box so the out pipe from cylinder goes into car, through hand brake cylinder and then T's just behind rear seats then goes accross to each side then down through the floor to braided hose and caliper. Pretty simple setup really.

[mk1nova_rich]

I'm not running a pedal box, just a 2 port Corsa B pedal and M/C so will be a single line through the car. May experiment without a bias valve and see what its like and fit one in after if need be

[SR-Rally]

I'd run a pedal box if you can afford it. Means you can set how you like your brakes to work if that makes sense, plus if your pushing hard in a rally your pedal will pump up with a servo.

Only problem with pedal box on road rally car is that technicly your not aloud to be able to alter brakes from drivers seat. I still have my adjustment nob on the dash infront of me and have never been pulled up on it. Although my mate has a couple of times and had to disconnect adjuster :( pain in the **** if running late through scrut

[mk1nova_rich]

I know exactly what you mean, I may see if a Corsa one comes up cheap enough...just starts putting the cost of the build up!! I may fit standard MC for now then look into pedal boxes further down the line once the car is built. As for the adjuster knob i reckon I will fit that in the engine bay,

[SR-Rally]

Good plan. A friend of mine takes the vacum pipe of his servo on his proton as he can't afford pedal box but breaks were pumping up lol legend

[mk1nova_rich]

Good plan. A friend of mine takes the vacum pipe of his servo on his proton as he can't afford pedal box but breaks were pumping up lol legend

That may be sumat else worth looking into as a pikey temp setup lol whats the pedal feel like on a standard MC with the vacuum disconnected?

[SR-Rally]

Hmmmm pretty rubish when I tryed it with a nova, although his proton ain't to bad. I think you'd be better of spending £150 and getting pedal box. I actually have a hockley prototype pedal box that fits on a servo in my shed lol worked pretty well untill I started pushing really hard

[mk1nova_rich]

That would be no good to me as I have removed the Nova cross linkage and M/C, and have fitted the Corsa one - which need the bonnet modifying to fit anyway so a pedal box on top of the servo would sit even higher i reckon. I will keep an eye out for a proper Corsa pedal box but to be honest its going to be fairly low priority for now...I'd really like to get at least seats or cage bought before Christmas. And storage needs sorting out asap

[SR-Rally]

Just looking at the OBP 25% off Christmas discounts, it may be a good time to invest in a hydraulic handbrake so I can get the brackets
cut and welded into the shell. What master cylinder size is it best to run? Bearing in mind I will be fitting a bias valve in-line before the
handbrake

remember from begining of 2011 or 2012 cant remember :S you cant run vertical bar and you have to use standard handbrake lever and mounting point.

[mk1nova_rich]

remember from begining of 2011 or 2012 cant remember :S you cant run vertical bar and you have to use standard handbrake lever and mounting point.

cheers for that info, i really need to get up to date with regulations! I may look to convert the standard lever to hydraulic like the Group A Novas did...not sure how you get round have a cable fitted for MOT?!

[SR-Rally]

thats how i've done mine. will get some pictures if you want?

i run vw back caliper and have to join vw back cables to nova front if that makes sense? mot will be fine as they only check the cable is there and the hydrolic set up will obviously be strong enough. your problem will be some scrutiniers make you take the pin out of you hydrolic bar and check your cables actualy work :s i almost wasnt aloud to run as never been pulled up on it till one rally in north wales. managed to get away with it as my nav put his foor infront of back wheel :) and i pulled like **** well they were pushing

[mk1nova_rich]

Yeh if you could get me some pictures mate that would be brilliant :thumb: I'm keeping drums though I can't be bothered with the extra hassle and expense of converting to rear discs

[mk1nova_rich]

Well after some consideration I'm giving up on the "direct-to-box" shifter, I really can't be bothered lol so I have just spent a few quid with McGill Motorsports on the parts for a rose-jointed linkage...just need to find some M10 studding and all the nuts to go with it. I will still fit the Cavalier internal shifter to mate up to this. So hopefully the bits will arrive soon and I can update with what will feel like actual progress!!

[mk1nova_rich]

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/SumpGuard.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/SumpGuardBrackets.jpg

Not much of an update but I have been spending money, bought myself a 6mm sump guard
yesterday off a bloke in my motor club. It came with two brackets but I'm not sure how
these attach the guard to the shell...I'm assuming they are for the front mounts. As you can
see there is a nut welded onto the diagonal part of the brackets which a bolt will screw into
through the single holes on the front of the sump guard. Just not sure how they then attach
to the car...any ideas are very welcome :d

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/StrutBrace.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/StrutBraceIn.jpg

Also got myself a freshly powdercoated front strut brace for £20 which will look good in the
engine bay when its finished! If it ever happens lol need the weather to dry up so I can finish
cutting and welding in the engine bay then prepare it for paint. That is all for now, just helps to
keep me motivated if I update this thread!! Other people's comments help motivate me even
more :thumb:

[Southie]

Good to meet you today Rich, you've got yourself a tidy shell there just hope going out in mine spurs you on a bit once the weathers a bit better. :thumb:

[mk1nova_rich]

Cheers Dave, I've missed being in a Nova :( so was good to get out in yours like, that engine is absolutely bang on :thumb:

I feel really motivated at the minute but not much I can do with this weather!

[SR-Rally]

if you want to do road rallying in that shell you'll have to re fit the fire wall in engine bay. they are really strict about that as i was almost stopped from running as i didnt have the foam bits on the bonnet that seals the fire wall when bonnet is shut. i had to get some off another car befor i was aloud to run.

[mk1nova_rich]

what if the holes in the bulkhead are plated over?

[SR-Rally]

i dont no. only way to find out is go see a scrut or ask on brf.

[Nobby]

looking good mate, how does the corsa servo work? whats need to make it work?

[Southie]

Have a good day at the Christmas stages tomorrow mate, gutted I cannot come along :(

[boffer8]

You best not get lost coming here rich otherwise we'll leave you behind! ;)

[mk1nova_rich]

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/DSCF0032.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/DSCF0034.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/DSCF0033.jpg

I drove down to Lincoln this morning to pick up this 6 point cage from Vessey then as soon as I
got home, had a go at trial fitting it so I can mark out where my spreader plates need to go. I'm
pretty sure its a Safety Devices cage but not 100% (I hope it is), its the type that goes through
the dash which means a bit of extra work but not to worry. At least that means the cage can be
fitted and the dash fitted after and removed if necessary when I get to the wiring loom stage.

Its currently covered in stickers so I will be removing these, giving it a sand down and a fresh
lick of paint, staying with black.

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/DSCF0035.jpg

As I have a bit of a sticker fetish I bought these a while ago, so once the cage has been re-
painted the Safety Devices stickers will be going along the rear diagonal bars.

Thats it for now until I have got my spreader plates cut and found someone to weld them in for
now. I have a MIG welder but not much experience so I want them doing right lol

[matt_vaughan]

progress is good rich. should be looking more like the final product soon :D

[mk1nova_rich]

Progress is truly crap to be honest lol, the only other thing I have done recently is finish drilling all the spot welds along the exhaust tunnel to remove the top part. You can just about see it in the middle picture...I'm surprised how much moisture was trapped between the two layers, you can see quite a bit of rust on the picture

[mk1nova_rich]

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/DSCF0036.jpg

This morning I have marked out the locations of the spreader plates, then removed the front
hoops, cross bar and door bars and de-stickered them. I rubbed down the cross bar and door
bars and gave them a fresh coat of Matt Black paint.

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/DSCF0038.jpg

I got the wire brush on the area around the passenger side B pillar cause it was looking a little
crusty :( I think this may need attending do before attempting to weld the spreader plate in.

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/DSCF0037.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/mk1nova_rich/Mk1%20Proper%20Rebuild/DSCF0039.jpg

While I was at Halfords I got some Hammerite silver hammered effect paint and did my fuel tank
and filler pipe.

Now I need to find someone who can come and weld my spreader plates in :confused:

[Rickyb]

not a single update this year im sure theres been somthing goin on??
:-D

[Southie]

Any updates Rich?...... http://www.webanarchy.net/v3/images/smilies/Smiley_sadomasosmiley.gif

[mk1nova_rich]

No **** all lol im cutting it up :d lol