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View Full Version : Bolt to stud conversion


MARTIN KELSON
15-08-10, 12:53 PM
Hello,

Just received the studs to convert wheel bolts to studs.

Basically was fed up with when i change wheels i have my 'Stack' speedo sensor counting the bolts & its a pig to set up & have to keep changing it when i change wheels, so easiest thing is to swap to studs.

My question is what is best way of securing the studs to hub flange?
How do you do them up tight enough so when you undo the nut it doesnt unscrew the stud?
Dont know if 'threadlock' is good enough, or though of screwing them in & then putting a small spot of weld on the back of each stud.

Any thoughts or previous experience much appreciated.

Cheers

Martin
mk1nova_rich
15-08-10, 12:54 PM
permanent threadlocker :thumb:

Just make sure you leave it to set properly before tightening the nuts on
stt
15-08-10, 01:55 PM
loctite 271
craig green
15-08-10, 02:40 PM
Are the studs not knurled & a tight interference fit from behind the hubs?
I figure the 1st time you horse up the wheel nuts that will pretty much permanently seat in the studs.
Mark
15-08-10, 04:27 PM
They are designed to be screwed into position using threadlock, that is all that is required.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/CorsaNova/NovaSaloon/utf-8BSU1HMDA3ODMtMjAxMDA4MTUtMTYyMC5qcGc.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/CorsaNova/NovaSaloon/utf-8BSU1HMDA3ODQtMjAxMDA4MTUtMTYyMC5qcGc.jpg
MARTIN KELSON
15-08-10, 08:45 PM
Thanks for replies.

Dont know why but i just thought loctite wouldnt be upto the job due to the heat build up from the brakes being transfered into the hub.

What about a tack of weld on the back of the hub where the stub comes through?

Martin
mk1nova_rich
15-08-10, 08:49 PM
welding will make them much harder to remove if ever you need to
mowgli
15-08-10, 08:50 PM
remember to put the lightest drop of oil on the outer threads or it could pull them out when you try to undo them. keep the nut clean so the cone grips the rim. make sure you check the nuts for tightness on a regular basis, as rh threaded nuts on the lh side can work their way loose
MattBrown
15-08-10, 08:52 PM
remember to put the lightest drop of oil on the outer threads or it could pull them out when you try to undo them. keep the nut clean so the cone grips the rim. make sure you check the nuts for tightness on a regular basis, as rh threaded nuts on the lh side can work their way loose

Good point this.

I was wondering about converting mine.

But, ive been told, theres loads of profiles of nuts, and some dont seat correctly with certain wheels:confused:
mk1nova_rich
15-08-10, 08:54 PM
Good point this.

I was wondering about converting mine.

But, ive been told, theres loads of profiles of nuts, and some dont seat correctly with certain wheels:confused:

some wheels have say a 90 degree seat and others may have a 60 degree and so on, so it is important to check the wheels and nuts match
MARTIN KELSON
15-08-10, 08:58 PM
welding will make them much harder to remove if ever you need to

Was only thinking a tiny tack to stop them undoing when i uncrew the wheel nut, not a full on weld all the way round.
Mark
15-08-10, 09:06 PM
Was only thinking a tiny tack to stop them undoing when i uncrew the wheel nut, not a full on weld all the way round.

Been using them for 6 years on three different Nova Rally cars and never had an issue with them locktighted in. :thumb:
MARTIN KELSON
15-08-10, 09:15 PM
Been using them for 6 years on three different Nova Rally cars and never had an issue with them locktighted in. :thumb:

What loctite do you recomend Mark?
Mark
15-08-10, 09:21 PM
Can't remember the exact one we used, think it was 270, high strength threadlock.
mowgli
15-08-10, 10:06 PM
decent competition alloys have steel inserts in for the nuts to seat on, don't they??
draper
15-08-10, 10:11 PM
a tack on the back gets my vote, if anything its for piece of mind
mowgli
15-08-10, 10:15 PM
but the stresses of use will soon crack a small weld, and then its really difficult if you need to replace the stud.

also, the stud will be heat hardened, and warming it up with the welder will weaken it.

loctite & regular checking is all that is needed
draper
15-08-10, 10:18 PM
if the weld is checked everytime the car is checked it will be fine

i trust a weld more than locktite
stt
15-08-10, 10:25 PM
if the weld is checked everytime the car is checked it will be fine

i trust a weld more than locktite

because you can really see behind the hub every time easily lol

loctite 271 is perfect for the job
Mazz
15-08-10, 10:28 PM
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_red/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Red-271.htm

Recommended For


Use on metal fasteners up to 1" (25 mm) in diameter such as bolts on decks, ready-to-assemble furniture, mounts, rings, gear bolts and frame bolts
draper
15-08-10, 10:40 PM
after careful research i have concluded a weld isnt needed - i thought you screwed the stud in from behind the hub so by tightening a nut on you would loosen the stud
bmw156
15-08-10, 10:50 PM
decent competition alloys have steel inserts in for the nuts to seat on, don't they??

does any one know where i can get replacement ones of these, as they are fooked on a set of alloys i have....
Stuart
16-08-10, 07:52 AM
does any one know where i can get replacement ones of these, as they are fooked on a set of alloys i have....

err the alloy manufacturer ;)