Looking for help in all area's!

[dj-stryke]

Right!

Picked up a Nova 1.3SR for ?125. It came with nice 15" Fondemetal wheels, lowering springs, exhaust and a k&n.

I drive a mk1 Nova, 1.2 Starfire, so I wanted to take all the decent bits off of the SR, to make mine technically a 1.2SR.

I'm sure lots of you have done the mods I'm looking to do, so I'm asking for help on here, or a link to a good guide, for the following jobs...

- What arch work will be needed for 195 15" alloys, once lowered (not sure the amount, looks like 30-40mm)

- How to change over the inlet manifold, with the carb and k&n, onto my 1.2 engine. Main problem's I can see is for me, is where all the pipes, hoses and cables go...

- The dash. What will I need off of the SR to allow the rev-counter to work on my 1.2.

- Changing the springs. What to do first, and how to put the lowering springs onto my dampers...front looks simple, back looks more complex to me.

Those are the 4main jobs, I switched the seats over yesterday, which was fairly easy.

Any other idea's what I can change over? I've already got a 5speed gearbox on my 1.2...What about changing over cams...is that feasable or do they 'run in' into the pattern/shape of their existing motor too much...?

i'm alright when it comes to working on cars, and I could do all the work on my own, but I think it's a good idea to get some advice to make it quicker and easier...and everyone has at least one good idea!!

Thanks people...

[ade]

arches - if wheels are et 45-49 you might be lucky and not need to do arch mods. The only ones you will ne3ed to do id possibly either grind or roll the rear arch lip a little - if grinding dont go past the weld(about 5mm from the inner lip edge) and make sure ytou seal it all once you expose the metal. You could also roll them (push the lip up in on itself) - will need to seal to stop it rusting from behind though.

Suspension - rear springs are fairly easy to swap over. If lowering 60mm please get the shock to go with it otherwise your ride will be really rough and you'll wear the shocks out within 6 months anyway so you may aswell get a full kit. To change rears you need to 1st undo the nuts in the boot that hold the cuspension tops in place (think its a 12mm socket), then jack the rear up and tug on the rear axle, the shocks will come out the hooles and the springs will fall out. They simply sit in 2 mounting areas. Just slot the new ones in and tighten back up. If however you are using shorted springs with standard shocks, you will have to use tie backs to hold the springs in place - not the best.

Fronts - if its the entire suspension you are replacing (not just the springs), then you only need to remove the 2 strut top bolts in the engine bay and the 2 19mm bolts on the wheel hub bit. Make sure bolts are facing towards the rear. If replacing the sdprings its a little more in depth. You need a 19mm crack neck spanner, 9mm socket and spring compressors - you may also need a length of metal tubing if the top suspension nut is rusted (I had to drill mine out!)

Not too sure about manifold - dunno if a 1.3sr manifold will fit on a 1.2 but the K&N should just bolt on. What carb is it on the 1.3 - weber?
rev counter I believe all you do is run a wire to the coil but dont quyote me on that

Ade
:D

[mowgli]

1.2 carb has a feed & return pipe, the 1.3 has only a feed. just blank the return off.

all of the induction bits would fit, but I can't see that they would actually help with your performance at all. the 1.2 just doesn't need a bigger carb in standard form....

DO NOT bother swapping the heads or cams, the 1.3sr lump is not a high performance piece of kit, it is the same engine as the 1.3l,gl etc the 1200 just has a different bore/stroke.

Now swapping the exhaust manifold from the 4-1 to the 4-2-1 will help squeeze a bit more go.

putting the 1.3 sr gearbox in will give you perkier acceleration cos it has a low diff ratio.

swapping the exhaust & gbox won't affect your insurance.

[Euan]

think my old 1.3sr carb had a return pipe.

[Alex]

i think if you just swap the clocks the rev counter should work. All the wireing is already there, so you just need to pug in some clocks with a rev counter

[Ste_Nova]

wrong the bolts face forward (from what i remeber in the haynes anyway)