Car - Fucked up problem

[Aragorn]

ok folks

im in te process of reshelling into my 2door

on sunday i took the old brakes and suspension off the 2 door and fitted it all to my 4 door so i could get the good stuff off it ready to fit to the new car

im driving the 4 door everyday while im sorting the 2door

now - i drove it to uni today and it seems to have some annoying and dangerous (and posibly related) issues

first off the brakes totally suck - ive gone from 16v jobbies to standard AC Delco nova calipers but i never remember it being this bad - i can STAND on the pedal at 30 and it doesnt even think about locking the wheels and slows down really slowly

secondly - if im over 50mph and brake i get shuddering thru the entire car and steering untill the speed goes below about 40mph

thridly - when driving along, if im off the throttle and hold the wheel steight then accellerate, the car pulls to the left - but if i let the steering wheel go, the wheel turns slightly to the right and the car goes in a streight line and opposite happens when coming off throttle - ie if i hold the wheel squint so the car is in a streight line then lift off it pulls right till i re-center the wheel

hope someone can shed some light on this

im guessing its summat like a sticking brake caliper but not sure

[Aragorn]

another point i should mention - is the top balljoint on the steering knuckle that attaches to the steering rack is wobbly as fuck

track rod end innit?

[ade]

vibration iwhen braking over 50 is defo track rod end which answers second post - this will cause wheel feedback. Get the track rod done quick as - especially if its wobbly as fcuk!

You'll need the tracking done too - I had mine done last year - and whwn I got it back my steering wheel was all squinty

As for pulling to left - brakes binding - check sliding sleeves - renouned for sticking on the old nova calipers. This might also explain the lack of stopping power coz if they are all bumged up the piston wont be efficient.

Haynes explains howe to strip them down - you'll need new dust shields though.

Ade

[mikeoxford]

vibration iwhen braking over 50 is defo track rod end which answers second post - this will cause wheel feedback. Get the track rod done quick as - especially if its wobbly as fcuk!Ade

:o

how do i check that as i have it and i thought it was because i didnt let the discs bed ni and there arped.

i got my 2ltrs to go on anyway.

that what u described ade soudns scarily familiar, how do i checkit?

[ade]

it could also be warped discs or even unbalanced wheels (noticeable as you accelerate you get judder through wheel) - but judder through wheel when braking is usually track rod end as the brakes send vibrations through the rods then into thre steering column.

Jack car up and move front wheel back and forth (push top of it into arch and then bottom) if the treack rod has polay the wheel will "wobble" slightly.

MOT bloke showed me when mine went - was all over the place - was only drivers front.

Need to get the tracking done after changing. If doing yerself you should use a spocialy ball joint seperator tool to prevent damage to the track rod - some use a hammer to seperate the knuckle :o

Also - the track rod end itself can be a real bitch to get off.

[mikeoxford]

well ill put my 2ltr items on and then look into that if the problem is still there

dont know what disc and pad combo to buy, im thinking rather than do it cheaply then spend again, to go the full hog and get greenstuff pads and tarox discs right from the start

[CP]

possible causes:

track rod ends kanckered.
TCA ball joints fooked.
tracking out
shite/oil/grease on discs.
warped discs.
worn tyres.
calipers come loose/ pads not fitted properly/in poor condition

[Aragorn]

looks like first port of call is the track rod end then

ill replace it asap and get it re-tracked then see how it is

[rgv_stu]

worn bushes on tca and wishbone also cause this