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View Full Version : 8v baffle plate on XE - Info needed.



Spudly
08-04-10, 08:58 PM
As title, we have finally gotten my mates XE up and running after a million and six teething problems lol


The sump has a few minor cracks from overtightening and as a result is persistently leaking, three litres of oil in about a ten minute drive :eek:


He has been told to remove the baffle plate altogether and use one gasket (we have replaced both btw) he has also heard about using an 8v one as they have a bonded on rubber gasket (replacement ones are cork, and ive heard there are benefits to running an 8v one anyway)

Question is, which engine is needed to source the plate from (NE or SEH) and what gaskets do we need to run and do we need shorter bolts aswell?

Any info or advice or offers of freebies greatly accepted, as always cheers for any help given boys and girls:thumb:

Pistol Pete
08-04-10, 09:01 PM
Shorter bolts are needed, yes. Also run a tap or something down the holes, clean out the crud.

With regards to what baffle plate is needed, i thought it was the NE one? Or are they the same lol

The plate comes with the gaskets fixed to it, hence why people like to run it. Only 2 possible leak spots rather that 4!

Also IIRC one of the tabs needs bending to clear the crank?

Apologies for the vaugness of my reply!!!

Iain
08-04-10, 09:18 PM
If the sump is cracked how will a new gasket help?

Pistol Pete
08-04-10, 09:20 PM
lol good point. New sump pan may be first port of call.

John
08-04-10, 09:20 PM
If the sump is cracked how will a new gasket help?

rep!

Ben
08-04-10, 11:14 PM
I imagine if its cracked from overtightening they are hoping that by using a new gasket/baffle they will seal up the area directly around the bolt holes.

I agree i wouldnt be bothering if the sump is coming off to change the gasket for £20 i would chuck another on.

Spudly
08-04-10, 11:45 PM
Sorry i didnt make it clear yes he is going to change the sump but has had problems with it leaking for a while and has been told to use an 8v baffle plate as theyre less likely to leak apparently:thumb:

Sloth
09-04-10, 12:04 AM
correct, one of the webs on the baffle needs bending slightly. when fitted upto the bottom of the motor, spin the engine by hand and you will see which one. shorter bolts are needed, try scotts in town mate (dont forget some small washers. seals far easier than the cork poo.

nova_saloon
09-04-10, 12:50 AM
How did you over tighten :S. there only a nip up on the sump gasket, Not at all tight like 5-10ft.lb. that shouldnt be enough to crack it i hope may also why it leaaking so much by it being so squished.

But call auto-vaux and ask for the baffle plate to use on the c20xe they will know exactly what you mean and just put an extra washer or two on the bolts you already have

Mazz
09-04-10, 10:57 AM
pinched from max-boost

http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/images/baffleplates8v_vs_16v.jpg

bmw156
09-04-10, 11:11 AM
make sure when fitting the new baffle plate, you dont over tighten, otherwise you crack the metal inside the rubber gasket. and it leaks again lol.

Spudly
09-04-10, 11:30 AM
Cheers for all help and advice peeps i shall pass this all on to my mate when he lands back form ists this weekend (chav that he is lol)

Sloth
09-04-10, 11:45 AM
spud, would this be usefull in articles?:thumb:

Pistol Pete
09-04-10, 05:30 PM
Picture would be mighty useful fo'sho!!