View Full Version : h and r anti rollbars and rear neg camber set ups
have just been trawling venom motorsport and found these...
http://www.venommotorsport.com/manufacturer_product.php?manufacturer=HR&category=suspension&product=AntiRollBars&make=Vauxhall&model=Nova
http://www.venommotorsport.com/manufacturer_product.php?manufacturer=EibachAlignm ent&category=suspension&product=RearCamber&make=Vauxhall&model=Nova
anybody ever used either of these? the neg camber kits might cause issues for people running coilovers though....
I think the pics they show are just a all round photo.
As neither would fit on a nova, i think they'll be std looking but maybe thicker..
Unless your doing some serious motorsport, they will be proper overkill.
as the linky is not working for me, i'm assuming the rear neg camber kit is simply a bag of thin washers, cos unless you are mike, the only way you'll get negative camber is to shim out the bottom bolts on the rear stubs, and apart from looking 'cool' going down the street, the fact that it is a beam means the rear contact patch is never going to get any bigger than it is std
as the linky is not working for me, i'm assuming the rear neg camber kit is simply a bag of thin washers, cos unless you are mike, the only way you'll get negative camber is to shim out the bottom bolts on the rear stubs, and apart from looking 'cool' going down the street, the fact that it is a beam means the rear contact patch is never going to get any bigger than it is std
lol lol lol lol lol
i thought the neg camber kit may have been like a cheese wedge shape to go behind the drum.
yeh the pics dont match what you would get i presume.lol. thought they may have been of some help to somebody.
link edited too.
the size of shim you'd need to put a degree of camber on would be minute,
Iv seen the roll bars on another site, they are just thicker than standard gsi ones.
Not worth the price IMO.
Iv seen the roll bars on another site, they are just thicker than standard gsi ones.
Not worth the price IMO.
Apparently H&R do, or used to do, a bladed rear ARB for a Nova? Dont know just how true that is tho :confused:
a couple of years ago, everyone was shouting from the rooftops that you should remove your nova ARB's
this was because rally drivers removed them....... on british stage rallying, which is on bumpy woodland tracks, suspension travel is far more important than body roll, but loads of people removed them.....
a couple of years ago, everyone was shouting from the rooftops that you should remove your nova ARB's
this was because rally drivers removed them....... on british stage rallying, which is on bumpy woodland tracks, suspension travel is far more important than body roll, but loads of people removed them.....
Exactly the same when everyone was carping on about using VW rear disc setups but they never knew/know why there better ;) lol
IMO Nova's handle crap without antiroll bars.
Iv tried it with and without on my XE and my SR, on both it drove/handled better with them on.
MattBrown
05-04-10, 02:02 PM
IMO Nova's handle crap without antiroll bars.
Iv tried it with and without on my XE and my SR, on both it drove/handled better with them on.
So is it best to have them, or not have them?
Got coilovers all round, no arb's yet, but got some in the shed
Much rep will be left for a propper explanation.
I have transfered the info accross from model car racing, using all the setup, but on a model car it takes 20 seconds to pop an arb on, its a bit more involved with this lol
IMO Nova's handle crap without antiroll bars.
It must be a clue........
Rear is deffo wanted Matt.
George g
05-04-10, 04:27 PM
So is it best to have them, or not have them?
Got coilovers all round, no arb's yet, but got some in the shed
Much rep will be left for a propper explanation.
I have transfered the info accross from model car racing, using all the setup, but on a model car it takes 20 seconds to pop an arb on, its a bit more involved with this lol
An arb means that a lower spring rate can be used in your suspension as both help eachother, so bumps on tarmac are better coped with initially, however many rally drivers remove them and opt for a higher spring rate to keep traction on bumpy ground as each wheel moves independently to the other allowing each wheel to have more contact with the floor, but this is usually coupled with an LSD which help traction anyway. Get the spring rate wrong however and the front end will skip about all over the place, reducing traction.
My advice would be to leave it on for road and occasional track use. If its a race car, then an adjustable bladed setup would be recommend for different circuits.
Hope this helps explain an arb
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