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YellowTurbo
21-04-03, 06:28 PM
When doing the camber adjustment as shown in the articles it says redrill holes 7mm closer to the wing.....is that 7m from the center of the original hole or 7 mm from the edge of the original hole?

mikeoxford
21-04-03, 06:35 PM
the way i read it i understand it as 7mm from the original location, so as you see it, the centre.

YellowTurbo
21-04-03, 06:39 PM
i thought that two but 7mm from the center of the hole would just make the original hole oblom shape....if you know what i mean.

Nova-Boy
21-04-03, 06:41 PM
When using measurements like that it is usually taken from the centre of the hole. Although i am not sure of how secure it would be in a oblong hole? Would it not try to slide?

mikeoxford
21-04-03, 06:42 PM
i thought that two but 7mm from the center of the hole would just make the original hole oblom shape....if you know what i mean.

yep thats correct, called an elongated hole

mikeoxford
21-04-03, 06:43 PM
When using measurements like that it is usually taken from the centre of the hole. Although i am not sure of how secure it would be in a oblong hole? Would it not try to slide?

yes the first bang and it will move about, hence why after moving the hole and drilling the new one, people weld a washer to the strut top in the new 7mm location

YellowTurbo
21-04-03, 06:43 PM
but surly if the hole is elongated then it will be britle and the bolts would slip...?

mikeoxford
21-04-03, 06:46 PM
yes the first bang and it will move about, hence why after moving the hole and drilling the new one, people weld a washer to the strut top in the new 7mm location

Nova-Boy
22-04-03, 08:50 AM
Weld a washer! Why didn't i think off that. Getting the welder out seems like too bigger job for me!! :lol: Although i would have thought it would have to be done or you will have atomatic adjutable camber! 0-7mm advance system!! :lol:

Jim
22-04-03, 11:56 AM
Take it to a garage and get them to do it properly. Doesn't cost a lot. If you mess it up, it could end up costing you a lot more to put it right.

Jim

elsey197
22-04-03, 01:54 PM
wouldn't a strut brace do the same job as a washer holding the bolts so they wouldn't move. i have looked at doing this but if i weld washers on, it doesn't look as if there will be enough thread left to bolt the strut brace back on! unless you use really thin washers :?

Nova-Boy
22-04-03, 01:59 PM
Could you not use longer bolts?

Ste_Nova
22-04-03, 04:54 PM
a 7mm movement is a new hole no chance of it slipping

elsey197
22-04-03, 05:41 PM
so where do you take the measurement from? has any one actually done this mod?
http://www.novaload.net/forums/album_see.php?id=719

thai
22-04-03, 05:53 PM
have you trided adjusting the camber on the srut its self
they are designed to be adjusted at the bottom of the leg where it meets the nuckle 2 19mm bolts i belive ive managed nearly -2degrees camber on these

YellowTurbo
22-04-03, 05:59 PM
I done 7mm from the edge to make the strut more supportive instead of having a elongated hole and my camber is fine and tyre wear and handling is spot on

elsey197
22-04-03, 06:35 PM
so you took the measurement from here?
http://www.novaload.net/forums/album_thumbnail.php?id=720

so your new holes are sort of like above?

YellowTurbo
22-04-03, 07:36 PM
yes like that.

fearless
22-04-03, 10:27 PM
Seems like a very 'bodgy' way 2 adjust camber 2 me
There are various ways of adjusting suspension geometry on a Nova - All of them tried and trusted ways

1 : Excentric top mounts - These move the top of the strut inwards allowing an accurate and save away of adjusting camber/caster

2 : Drill/file top hole of strut body to allow knuckle inward/outward movement and fit cam bolt to top hole of strut, therefore allowing camber adjustment

However both these methods require some method of measuring the camber of the front wheel !! - thats where your local friendly garage/wheel alignment centre comes into play - unless u know someone with a camber gauge (the one ive got can be bougth for as little as 50 quid)