easiest way to get filler level

[torquey]

just delocked and removed my boot handle welded up the holes. ive skimmed it over with filler then rubbed down with 320 grit paper but i can still feel unlevelness in places. whats the best way ive been using a block.:thumb:

[bmw156]

i would say even rubs as opposed to rubbing in one spot then another,

long even rubs. :D

[AlexW]

Best thing to do is use guide coat, so lighty dust it with black paint and then flat it back with 400grit wet and dry (wet) and then your see exactly where the low spots are. Then just add more filler or reduce the surrounding area.

Edit: Continue to use your block

[torquey]

will give that ago. did use a guide coat and 400 dry. will try 400 wet. cheers

[saloonwoody]

DO NOT rub filler down wet !! its micropourous and soaks up water !
rub it down first with 80 on a block then 120 then 320 and then coat it with some high build primer and wet flat it back with some 800 :) should see a nice shmooth finish :)

[General Baxter]

think about when you have a ****, full length stokes, just don't work the tip lol

[de-slotted]

First off all you need to grind the weld back flush,then fill the whole area(not to thick).Sand Back with 600/800 grit (Dry). Then go from there until you have correct level.Then once level is correct i use 1000/1500 & then further filling may be required until you are satisfied.2000/3000 after that.All depends on how good you are from the start..:eek: Note 68 firebird

http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad78/de-slotted/Picture121.jpg?t=1269728315

[vaughanmc]

Rubbing filler down with 320 is bad news for a start you'd be there forever lol

Rub it down with P80 (Production Paper) until it's smooth/flat then see where your imperfections are then give it a light skim with a fine stopper or Dolphinglaze then rub it back down with P80 to take the roughness off then maybe a bit of P240 :)

[L14MNP]

First off all you need to grind the weld back flush,then fill the whole area(not to thick).Sand Back with 600/800 grit (Dry). Then go from there until you have correct level.Then once level is correct i use 1000/1500 & then further filling may be required until you are satisfied.2000/3000 after that.All depends on how good you are from the start..:eek:



Best advise for the finest finish IMO. Although I swear by the guide coat.

[lee-loon]

First off all you need to grind the weld back flush,then fill the whole area(not to thick).Sand Back with 600/800 grit (Dry). Then go from there until you have correct level.Then once level is correct i use 1000/1500 & then further filling may be required until you are satisfied.2000/3000 after that.All depends on how good you are from the start..:eek: Note 68 firebird

http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad78/de-slotted/Picture121.jpg?t=1269728315

what the hell are you on?

80,120 then 180 is what you need! If you can keep the 80 off the last skim.

[L14MNP]

Maybe he turns out £3k+ finishes lol. If it;s just a light skim you shouldn't need the w&d equivalent of an artex ceiling IMO.

Perfection it seems like. lol

[de-slotted]

Well,everyone to their own.The point if he's welded the outside then not grinded back is my point.& no i'm not on anything:tard:

[16v Nova Kev]

rubbing down filler with 600/800 lol good luck with that

[de-slotted]

rubbing down filler with 600/800 lol good luck with that
Well i start my loon shortly,so we'll leave the sark till it's finishedlol lol lol

[16v Nova Kev]

no sark but i fill and rub cars every day but you go ahead with the 600/800 and take pics plz:thumb:

[Angus Closier]

I dont see any harm in finishing with 600/800 but would never start like that! You would be there for ever!!!

[16v Nova Kev]

I dont see any harm in finishing with 600/800 but would never start like that! You would be there for ever!!!
I do your going to spray primer over it .

[CoolTiger]

rub filler every day

use long flat block rub end to end of the filler start before and finish after
whack filler in any cheap filler at first 80 grit,
second skim(should be last) tight skim of good filler smooth 7 or similer use guide coat use 120 and fininsh with 320,
prime flat back with 500git gray scotch paint

[bazil]

DA ftw, f**k rubbing by hand, that's why machines were invented.

[Benn]

80grit on filler, then 180 then primer. Putting filler in well helps the most.

If you use the longer side of the spreader board, doing as neat as you can.

I was always shown to put it in a bit thick. Then you can rub it out to get it smooth and perfect.

A long wide block will help get it flat too.

If you need to refill, skim the whole area, not just the low patch. Cause if you dot you'll be sanding down uneven and will make it worse.


De-slotted, you know 1000+ is finishing paper.. Not really sand paper.. Yeah?

[16v Nova Kev]

^^^the man above knows his onions

[Benn]

Spent 5-6 years doing it.. I did learn a little while i was there..lol

[daleNOVAbrennan]

80grit on filler, then 180 then primer. Putting filler in well helps the most.

If you use the longer side of the spreader board, doing as neat as you can.

I was always shown to put it in a bit thick. Then you can rub it out to get it smooth and perfect.

A long wide block will help get it flat too.

If you need to refill, skim the whole area, not just the low patch. Cause if you dot you'll be sanding down uneven and will make it worse.


De-slotted, you know 1000+ is finishing paper.. Not really sand paper.. Yeah?
^^spot on.when you think your ready to spray, prime and spray a mist of black over as a guide coat and flat back with a block, this will show any imperfections

[Benn]

Guide coat is must. I still use it to get things perfect.

[daleNOVAbrennan]

Guide coat is must. I still use it to get things perfect.
would never do it without using a guide coat,its not worth missing it out,then having a **** finish

[Benn]

Very true.

[16v Nova Kev]

Spent 5-6 years doing it.. I did learn a little while i was there..lol
i have only been doing it for a year but would never rub filler with 600/800:thumb: