View Full Version : Little advice failed mot :(
Hey guys,
Just had the mot on the nova & it failed :(
wasnt that bad just need to replace the hand brake cable (frayed) is this an easy job for myself or do i need to get the bf to do it?
All the welding i did passed ok.. :)
The only other thing was i got an advice ( brake pipes greased ) explain??
mot guy commented on the condition said it has a few more years left in it lol
thanks Annie x
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u62/Walshy-Sri/SUC53422-1.jpg
Gaz1300SR
22-03-10, 05:07 PM
I am guessing it means they need greased....
Handbrake cable shouldn't be too bad if you are handy enough with the spanners.
Gaz
Handbrake cable is a reasonably tricky job for a first timer, you need to take the drums off both sides to release the cable from the shoes. If they've been on a while, it can be a right pig of a job to get them off, and you have to make sure you re grease the bearings, and do the hub nut up to the right torque (usually I tighten the nut to the point where I can still move the washer side to side behind the nut with a screw driver)
I did replace the rear wheel bearings in november with help from the bf, Im sure I could follow it in the haynes manual just need a push in the wright direction lol, just ordered the whole cable from partco for £13, its only the o/s thats frayed but theres no more adjustment on the cable anyway so thought replace the lot. going to have a go at it weds if its not raining.
Handbrake cable is a reasonably tricky job for a first timer, you need to take the drums off both sides to release the cable from the shoes. If they've been on a while, it can be a right pig of a job to get them off, and you have to make sure you re grease the bearings, and do the hub nut up to the right torque (usually I tighten the nut to the point where I can still move the washer side to side behind the nut with a screw driver)
with the rear hub nuts its wise to nip the nut up just over 'hand tight' then slacken off till the washer moves. This sets the bearing nicely.
with the rear hub nuts its wise to nip the nut up just over 'hand tight' then slacken off till the washer moves. This sets the bearing nicely.
Aye, id normally do that with a new bearing
thanks for the bearing info :)
The auto tensioners can be a pain as well, you'll need to back them off before you can remove the cable. Inside the brake drum, its a thumb screw with a flat piece of metal acting as a ratchet. You'll need to back them off and pinch the brake cylinder to push the pistons in (worth taking the cap off the resevoir before doing this in case its over full). The cable still wont come off easily, but it will help. When you refit and put everything back together, pump the brake pedal a good few times to ratchet the tensioner back up.
TBH when I do it, I just rip the shoes out completely, but I dont advise you do that unless you know where it all goes back lol
some advice would be to take a pic of the spring set up with your phone/camera so you can double check for when they all fly off as they normally do.
Stupid little round clips i hate the bloody things.
Have fun.
Thanks guys im sure i'll have fun, I do enjoy fixing my own car :)
The only other thing was i got an advice ( brake pipes greased ) explain??
did he mean the nuts on the flexi hoses as when i fitted the new dics I put a little copper greese on the nut as its pretty rusty, Just didnt want it rusting anymore so i couldnt remove it. need to replace the flexi hoses soon anyway. surly putting a little grease on a nut isnt an advisory??
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u62/Walshy-Sri/SUC53423.jpg
never heard of that one before.
Sorry i cant help.
novautd
22-03-10, 05:48 PM
The only other thing was i got an advice ( brake pipes greased ) explain??
this just normaly means that your brake pipes have been greased therefore they carnt be propperly checked, so the tester has noted it so that if they burst he carnt be blamed
blue_peg_16v
22-03-10, 05:49 PM
might of ment to grease the metal pipes to prevent them rotting, might be worth giving the mot station a call and asking what it means
okay cheers will do, going back friday for a re-test so will ask then.
shame nova's dont have grease nipples or this could of become a right laugh lol
blue_peg_16v
22-03-10, 05:54 PM
are you volentering to grease annies nipples chris lol
this just normaly means that your brake pipes have been greased therefore they carnt be propperly checked, so the tester has noted it so that if they burst he carnt be blamed
This is the more likely explaination, brake lines dont need to be greased for an MOT.
are you volentering to grease annies nipples chris lol
I have a Grease gun lol
Dont let Elsie know shhhhhh
:thumb:
My nipples dont need greasing, im sure they would pass an mot fine,
thanks for the offer thou :)
i suspect that it means he greased the brake pipes? no...
blue_peg_16v
22-03-10, 06:04 PM
My nipples dont need greasing, im sure they would pass an mot fine,
thanks for the offer thou :)
pics just to be on the safe side lol
Blue peg you dirty little perv.
blue_peg_16v
22-03-10, 06:12 PM
it was obviously going that way lol
Guys you have gone way off topic... :p
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u62/Walshy-Sri/nipple.png
All i could find was an uneven pair of Grease Nipples lol.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/chunny01/abod%20gte/greasenipples.jpg
Guys you have gone way off topic... :p
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u62/Walshy-Sri/nipple.png
Very nice nipples Annie x
:thumb:
To save time and hassle underneath the car,cut the old handbrake cable thus making it easier to remove.Also your adjusting nut WILL be seized,mine failed on same cable last week.Took me just under 2 hours to do, but my nut on the threaded bar had seized solid,then snapped in the vice so required loadsa gt85,lots of heat and a lot of effing and blinding to free it lol that alone took an hour:mad: :mad:
craig green
22-03-10, 06:30 PM
Cutting a cable isnt a simple job though. The only way I can do it is with shimano bicycle cable cutters which struggle a tad but are feckin mental cable cutters anyway. But raiding a scrapped Corsa or Nova for the adjuster is a good idea as you can free it off with WD40 in advance of fitting it all back up.
All the advice on torquing the bearings correctly is good, its so easy to ruin the bearings like that, even mechanics in garages get it wrong thinking they know it all.
Btw I reckon a greased brake pipe refers to it being corroded sometime before & a cheapskate has rubbed it back & greased it thinking that will stop further corrosion.
blue_peg_16v
22-03-10, 06:46 PM
nice nipples annie
Cutting a cable isnt a simple job though.
Its gotta be simpler than tring to undo a seized nut,my sidecutters went straight through it
nice nipples annie
And if they dont need greasing maybe a tweak might help lol
blue_peg_16v
22-03-10, 07:05 PM
And if they dont need greasing maybe a tweak might help lol
lol
I'm going on he or someone will have greased the brake unions. As they are are normal mild steel so they rust and that's when they get failed.
I'd wipe them off and paint them. I painted mine as it saves them rusting and being a c*nt to get off.
I'll go with someone having greased the pipes so their condition can't be checked.
As for the handbrake cable, stick the grinder through it. Easiest way IMO.
Jon_nova1
22-03-10, 10:01 PM
I took an angle grinder to a handbrake cable a couple of months ago, went through it a treat:thumb:
lol at the cutting the cable. Its an old cable it will be worn. Will come off easy.
the greased brake line.
alot of people rub the lines down with sand paper and grase them to stop any ferther(sp) corroison(sp) i did it on a old mk4 escort i had
brainsnova
22-03-10, 10:55 PM
id rather new copper brake lines :d the grease with get all the crap from the road stuck to them. plus you can polish up the copper lol
Welsh Dan
22-03-10, 11:32 PM
No need to raid the scrappers for an adjuster. When I needed one Vauxhall still stocked the captive nut on its own, so I bent the adjuster open to remove the old one, fitted the new one and closed it up again. I think the nut was around 80p.
Can almost guarantee that the tester will be advising that the brake pipes have been coated in copper grease or similar and therefore he cannot check for rust. The tester at my old work did that a lot as he did not like greased up brake pipes.
Evening All,
I done the handbrake cable today I found it pretty simple tbh prob all the info from you guys :). The nut was well greased so undone with ease, took a while thou with 2 spanners lol.
re-greased all the bearings along with new split pins, could just about move the washer with a screw driver, No play in the rear wheels so seems ok.
Didnt take that long, Finished work at 2pm, picked new cables up, had both sides done by half 4 then took it for a retest & its a pass :)
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