View Full Version : C20xe still same knock sensor problems!
Right earlier i the week i posted a thread saying i had 3 fault codes showing up on my dissy XE i unplugged the ecu over night as i though the other 2 faults were related the faulty parts i had replaced. So after i replugged it back i the following morning all was ok untill i reached 3000rpm again managment light illuminated so i knew what this was i did another check on the faults all iwas getting was code 16 knock sensor no change in voltage.
so ive bought one off a lad on here and im still getting the same problem even after resetting the ecu again has anyone any ideas as to why?
Damo.
My mate has this problem aswell and he has tried everythign except the main engine loom so he is now going to try that. random problem it is.
Get a multi-meter and make sure the wiring for the knock sensor.
Will do guys thanks for the replys :thumb: .
Voltage problems may be down to a dodgy earth. You got all the earths bolted to the fuel rail????
Voltage problems may be down to a dodgy earth. You got all the earths bolted to the fuel rail????
Yea ad all three bolted on.:tard:
What else have you tried changing??
Southie
15-03-10, 04:16 PM
Is your battery full charged and keeping charge?
Does the ecu light stay on once it comes on? Or does it go off again???
Southie
15-03-10, 04:21 PM
Was the one you bought a working item?
New or used?
What else have you tried changing??
Nothing as yet ad when i bought the egine the afm and lambda were goosed so thats were the other faults were caused but there clear now its just the knock sensor one ive got another one to try but dont think its gunna make a difference.
would the advance/retard on the dissy cause the knock sensor to not work properly as like i said its fine untill i reach 3000rpm:tard: .
Is your battery full charged and keeping charge?
Yea southie batterys good and keping charge ive also swoped alternator.
Does the ecu light stay on once it comes on? Or does it go off again???
Yea once its on ad it stays on but if i turn ignition off an back on it goes off :confused: .
Was the one you bought a working item?
New or used?
No they were used mate lad sent me 2 as he wasnt sure they both worked.
I just dont see why knock sensor would give at fault at the same rpm all the time.....
Usually faults that keep happening at a certain rpm are speed sensor related (i.e. crank and dizzy hall sensor)
Are there any other codes stored?? i think the ecu light has to be on for at least 30secs before it stores the code btw.
I just dont see why knock sensor would give at fault at the same rpm all the time.....
Usually faults that keep happening at a certain rpm are speed sensor related (i.e. crank and dizzy hall sensor)
Are there any other codes stored?? i think the ecu light has to be on for at least 30secs before it stores the code btw.
Thats why im puzzled as its the same revs all the time thats why i thought with it being timing related could the hall sensor have anything to do with it as its a little loose on the dissy?
Tbh i dont really drive it over 3000rpm so i very realy see it its just when i feel the need to give it beans its there but everytime ive code read i its said code 16 knock sensor.
Southie
15-03-10, 04:34 PM
Get a multi-meter and make sure the wiring for the knock sensor.
Did you do the above to see if your getting a connection?
Did you do the above to see if your getting a connection?
Not yet mate just going to check now.
Could do with borrowing a known working dizzy and trying that
Could do with borrowing a known working dizzy and trying that
Could this cause the problem though ad are they connected in someway?
Could this cause the problem though ad are they connected in someway?
There kinda connected yes. Its not always worth trusting the ECU. Mine still says EGR, but the problem is far from that lol
Could this cause the problem though ad are they connected in someway?
No idea mate, hence borrowing one for free/cheap to rule it out......
Pretty sure the XE's will run and can rev properly with the hall sensor on the dizzy unplugged.
Pretty sure the XE's will run and can rev properly with the hall sensor on the dizzy unplugged.
yea pretty sure they can lee ill give it a go see if theres any difference.
Right just been out and checked the wiring to the knock sensor an ICV everythings fine both plugs are live and working when the engines running when you unplug the ICV the ECU light illuminates but when you unplug the Knock sensor it dosent is this right/normal?
Also i swopped the knock sensor again for another different one but still i get the ECU light at 3200rpm but i havent reset the ECU will i need to do that to get the Light to stay off at that speed or should it stay out anyway once the sensors swopped?
Also as a mate just pointed out would the fact that im useing a 1.8spi cav crank sensor make any difference to it as he eem to think it would but yet its not brining that up?
Are these the same sensor also does anyone know?
Edit: Ebay lists it as being the same part number c18nz -onwards..
Might be a daft question but are you sure the sensor is faulty and isn't doing it's job and detecting knock at those revs and then pulling the timing to stop further damage.
Might be a daft question but are you sure the sensor is faulty and isn't doing it's job and detecting knock at those revs and then pulling the timing to stop further damage.
Well its the 3rd sensor ive tried lee and its still giving the same faults so no idea :confused: .
Thats why i asked over the crank sensor :confused: .
Have you acually checked the voltage accross the pins on the plug? I dont mean just checking the live side
Have you acually checked the voltage accross the pins on the plug? I dont mean just checking the live side
Ah no tbh didnt know what kind of voltage i was looking for across them thats why i just check for a live feed have you any idea what kind of readings i would get from it rich? Engine needs to be running obviously but shall i unplug the sensor or leave it connected to check it?
Any ideas on this one guys ^^^^.
Should i be looking for a rise in voltage as i rev or a constant supply?
Damen what colour plugs are on the knock sensor and icv? icv should be black and knock sensor red iirc , they are the same plug so im just checking you havent got them the wrong way round.
If you need anything i have three redtop engines at the minute so you can borrow some bits to see if it helps :thumb:
Damen what colour plugs are on the knock sensor and icv? icv should be black and knock sensor red iirc , they are the same plug so im just checking you havent got them the wrong way round.
If you need anything i have three redtop engines at the minute so you can borrow some bits to see if it helps :thumb:
Oreyt mate yea iv got red to konck sensor and black to the icv double checked yesterday as i swopped the knock sensor for the third time lol.
Dont know if its something sort of speed related like dissy hall sensor/crank sensor triggering it off as its only at 3200 rpm :confused: .
Just out of thought would fuel stavation cause the knock sensor to detect a fault as when i fitted my astra mpi intank pump it was a tighter fit than my spi one i had to sort of force it down with the bolts it sat up higher by about 3-4mm than my spi pump hence my question.
Any gen on this guys?
If the afr was going lean enough to cause it to knock then yeah it probably could
If the afr was going lean enough to cause it to knock then yeah it probably could
Thats what i was thinking about earlier as like you said earlier in the thread its sort of speed/rev related so iwas thinking that at that perticualr speed its not getting enough fuel hence the fault as the mixtures too lean so the knock senosr carnt advance the timing enough to compensate?
maybe? i used a 2.0 ecotec intank pump on mine because my 1.2 mpi pump just failed to give enough fuel when giving it full throttle
maybe? i used a 2.0 ecotec intank pump on mine because my 1.2 mpi pump just failed to give enough fuel when giving it full throttle
Hmm maybe thats why then i swopped mine for an astra 1.6 16v intank one though so should give it enough i would have thought though anyway ive taken it out tonite and checked it out looks like the guaze on the bottom was being squashd against he swirl pot bottom as it was turned the wrong way round so ive corrected it so ill see how it goes if not ill return to the engine side of things lol.
Cheers again wardy. :thumb:
Just been told that if one of the cams is a tooth out it will cause this type of symptom anyone shed any light on this one or is he just talking bull?
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