View Full Version : How do I split Nova gsi engine from Gearbox
How do I split Nova gsi engine from Gearbox, I've just come in from the garage, undone the bolts that the Haynes manual tells you to undo, how do I get them apart?
thanks
Sparky
Have you removed the flywheel cover?
Then your just have to wiggle it off the clutch
Yeah I have removed the flywheel cover, do I have to remove any driveshafts?
cheers.
Its still in the engine bay by the way, just taking engine out and leaving gearbox in.
chimp007_uk
24-02-10, 07:08 PM
Support the engine.
Remove the flywheel/clutch cover.
remove gearbox bolts.
Remove the engine mounts.
Make sure you've removed all wiring, pipes earth straps etc
undone engine mounts, and removed input shaft, as that will hold it in.
sorry being thick, I dont know what an input shaft is or how to remove it.
it goes through the clutch in the box, take of the end cover, and you should see a big circlip with a spline bolt behind it, undo that, put a normal longer bolt into the shaft and give it a tug
i used a hammer and leverbar :/ but thats me
p.s, just take the gearbox out as well.
Taken the cover off but cant see where to put this longer bolt, pic included. :) Photobucket link:- http://s825.photobucket.com/albums/zz180/Drac0nyx/
i think its the circlip around the shaft (right hand gear bit)
chimp007_uk
24-02-10, 08:12 PM
Left have gear, in the centre ont he hole is a circlip. Remove that then screw a bolt in and pull out the input shaft.
You use this methold for changing a clutch whilst the gearbox and engine are still in the car.
Done ti many a time :)
There isnt a thread inside, it looks like a torq bit
is there a thread after you take the circlip out?
take the circlip out
put the SPLINE bit in, not torx.
and then undo the spline bolt and leaves a thread.
put a long bolt inthe hole and tug
Got the circlip out and spline bolt out, the input shaft is bloody tight, is there any other way of getting it out?
cheers
i never knew you could do it that way lol, i just unbolted the box levered it away from the engine and lifted the engine out, as seen here
http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=141124&page=4
so you didnt pull out the input shaft?
nope if you look at it the clutch cable is even still attached lol
i think you pissing in the wind here mate, just do the basics as said,
axle stand under engine
remove clutch cable
remove speedo cable
remove all bolts bar 1 thats easy to get too including starter motor
remove gearbox mounts bolts 2 underneath the car and 1 on the passenger chassis leg.
take the remaning bolt out and if you havent done it before get a mate to help you wiggle the box off then hey presto lol its off
seriously how can you not of done this lol.
are you sure all of the gearbox bolts are out.
the engine mount on the engine is off.
after that, get a crane and start pulling up, and any pipe work attached. undo lol
jimbob-mcgrew
25-02-10, 09:46 AM
so you didnt pull out the input shaft?
dont have to nah, i just make sure everthings unbolted, then a knock with a hammer usually breaks the seal and u can jiggle the box off the clutch like aw06 said.
youll need to pop the driveshafts out too, in order to get it out. easiest way i know is to unbolt the brake line from the caliper, the steering rod arm and the lower suspension arm from the hub assembly so it can move back and forth freely, that enables u to give the hub a tug outwards which usually pops the shaft out the box, sometimes needs an extra lever out at the gearbox side whilst pulling on it.
its a good idea to support the engine from underneath when u unbolt the gearbox mounts and it will hang at a steep angle and put alot of strain on the leftover engine mount.
watch out when the box pops off, hold onto it, as its 35 kilos or something, wouldnt want it to fall on a finger or your foot.
hope that helps :thumb:
Cheers for your help, think I opened a can of worms tbh lol.
Got pissed off with it, the only reason I wanted it out was to paint it up, and now that all the stuff is off it, I can do that in the engine bay.
Idling problem got sorted out, turns out it was the co screw ffs!
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