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TUBZGSXR
10-04-03, 02:55 PM
recently when ive bin drivin along, and took my foot off the acelerator and let the car slow itself down when the needle hits 2000rpm the car feels like ive put the brakes on a bit! it slows itslelf down alot more, not to stoppin totally but more than the beginin of the drop in revs? this happens particually in 2nd gear and possibly the others, although it might just be my imagination, and also when im on the motorway goin bout 80, if i let go of the acelerator and let the car slow down it feels like it slowin down alot quicker now than it used to :roll: but again thats not as noticable as wot happens in 2nd gear so might just be my imagination.. anyone got any ideas wots up?
P.S. ive fitted a new fan belt over the weekend, and i havent needed to ajust it yet so it hasent realy stretched if that has anything to do with it....
thanx
Tubz :)

Nova-Boy
10-04-03, 03:06 PM
I was thinking it could be your timing cos mine used to do when i first got it and as i read on you said your fan belt! So i would say get the timing sorted. Make sure your not a tooth out or something first. The thing is that it will need to be changed from what it says in the manual cos i assume you will be running unleaded?

Also check that your vacuum ignition advance unit works (can be done by pulling the hose off it and giving it a suck). It the diaphram is broke then you will be able to suck straight through it. This drastically effects the timing.

TUBZGSXR
10-04-03, 03:11 PM
how do i check my timing? and were is that vacum pipe?? and diaplahm thing? not to hot on technical names for engine componants

Nova-Boy
10-04-03, 03:29 PM
On the crank shaft pulley bolt turn the crank shaft until the notch it is on the crank shaft is inline with the ignition pointer on the engine casing.

without the belt attached turn your cam shaft until the notch on the camshaft sproket lines up with the back plate notch. That should make the cam and crank run in time.

With the distributer (dizzy) cap off the rotar arm should be pointing to no1 lead. Now fit cam belt and tighten, ensuring it doesn't slip a tooth whilst putting it on. It may need some slight timing but that will make sure your not going to bash any valves whilst trying!

You need to mark with tip x or white paint a dot on the engine casing pointer and crank shaft pulley notch. Now you need to get the engine running and using a timing light from your no 1 spark plug see if the light flashes when the notches line up. To do some fine adjustments turn the dizzy slightly one way or another.

The vacuum advance is like a little flying saucer on top of the dizzy. It has a pipe from your carb that sends sucktion pulses when you put your foot down. This pulls the diaphragm inside the unit up instantly advancing your timing. If it is working then when you suck it will well sound like a diaphragm moving. If it is broke then you will be able to suck straight through.

If it is broken then what people usually do is advance the timing to make up for it but your car will never run right all the time may do at low revs or high revs but wont be smooth.

This was the problem with mine. It used to pull really bad then all of a sudden pull like stink and when doing 80 say you would take your foot off the pedal and it would feel like you were putting the brakes on.

A lot to read but i hope it helps. If not then get a Hayns Manual!!

Nova-Boy
10-04-03, 03:31 PM
On the other hand it might be something completely different! :roll:. Set your timing up anyway and if it is still as bad then check your carb settings. I will explain that another day!!! :lol:

ade
10-04-03, 10:18 PM
if your timing is out you'll notice it when accelerating (it'll pink and will be sluggish).

To do timing properly, you need a strobe gun. Adjusting the dozzy unit manually will work to a degbree but for exact timing a strobe is needed.

Mine used to smoke when I took foot of accelerator (engine since dead! :cry: )

If its slowing down alot quicker, wots it like when it accelerates. Could be brakes?

Ade