Project: Gold Snowplough Turbo

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


I got home from work yesterday with a bit of a headache so I thought I'd do some odd bits and pieces to take my mind of it.


My eye caught the oil pressure sender looking brown and bit pooh-y (sp?). So I ran to Le Garage and got all the materials and started on it with the small amount of daylight left.
https://images2.imgbox.com/1f/29/4SbOCaNL_o.jpg


^ Looking like crap. Gave it a nice rub down with some hardcore emery cloth and some 600 wet and dry. Then gave it a wipe and it got to this state \/
https://images2.imgbox.com/5f/94/Jdfadl78_o.jpg


Then masked it up and gave it a few coats of my favourite VHT aluminium paint.
https://images2.imgbox.com/e3/04/XbbQ7GoI_o.jpg


Ahhh... feel better now, matches the rest of the engine bay.


I then moved over to a couple bits for the Cavalier as it'd be quick to sort out and it would be one more bit out the way. (I'll update the Cav thread with it soon).


This morning, I made my way down to Vauxhall to ask a few bits. First up was one of the hoses for the turbo. The rest were nice and new but this had split so it had to go of course. Luckily Vaux still do them. I also asked for the exhaust/inlet manifold studs/bolts but they were NLS.


Thought I'd get some spark plugs and HT leads as they normally work out cheaper than motorfactors. Plugs were £10 for 4 but they couldn't get hold of any HT leads were no longer available in a pack but were available individually at a price of..... no wait a bit more... bit more still... £33 each!


Did however get an oil filter for £1.73


Plan to get more work done this week as I'm off for 4 days, yay!

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

Managed to spend some time on the Nova yesterday. Made use of the good weather and fitted the rear GTE anti-roll bar and inspected the arches so I could apply some underseal. I also managed to rub down and coat the rear beam but due to a flat battery on the camera, I was unable to get some pics.

Early evening, I had some time to do some work on the loom in the engine bay. Some wires were exposed (not protected in anyway) so with the amount of self amalgamating loom tape left I went to work.

Not much describing needed so I'll let the pics do the talking (yeah I know... engine bay not looking too clean. Lots of dust, underseal overspray. Will be giving the bay a good going over with some polish when I've done all I need)

First up behind the headlamps, probably the first place at the front of the car that'll get wet so that got sorted:

Before
https://images2.imgbox.com/e0/83/Jt9YdqVY_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/f3/18/rXtYumvc_o.jpg

After
https://images2.imgbox.com/d2/9e/flOmwNI3_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/f0/51/hCoN5ROA_o.jpg

The washer bottle wires were looking sorry for themselves:

Before
https://images2.imgbox.com/07/2d/AJbWNxA2_o.jpg

After
https://images2.imgbox.com/f7/a1/cdNofHfy_o.jpg

Then the wires that connect to various bits at the back of the engine, alternator, temp guage, oil pressure sender etc

Before
https://images2.imgbox.com/a9/51/M1TUEy7H_o.jpg

After
https://images2.imgbox.com/3a/88/zhrkAC51_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/f0/51/hCoN5ROA_o.
Some of you might wonder why I didn't warp all the way to the end. Firstly I didn't know how much tape I had left to use so those little bits will be finished off as I have a bit of tape left and everything else has been wrapped. I also had enough time to spray the O/S tie bar. Underside bits have been sprayed in stone-chip black spray as normal paint would probably wear off early.

Hopefully I can arrange some time tomorrow to do some more work

[Balley]

Are you getting a bigger Servo, Surely she will want one being LET powered! lol

[Nova_Tek]

Some say a standard servo is fine with the better brakes fitted others go bigger. I'll have to see what it feels like when braking and improve it if need be.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

Day off again today so no excuses but to keep up the hard work. The other day whilst I was cleaning up the rear beam I remembered he folded arch lips. I had to give them a good coat of underseal and fill in the slight gap left after rolling. If it's left untreated water will easily sit there and rot it again.


Gave the inside of the lip a good wipe and applied some underseal. I let that dry and filled in the gap all the way with seam sealer. Let that dry and coated that with underseal. Did that to both sides. Now I'll feel happy knowing that it's protected whatever puddle I go through. Couldn't get any snaps as there was very little space and not enough room to get a good focus


As the rear wheel was off, I saw the hideous site that was the rear drums. The had dirt, overspray and started peeling. Got to business sorting them out.


This is how they began
https://images2.imgbox.com/b6/a0/kQkBT8Qb_o.jpg


After a rub down and masked up
https://images2.imgbox.com/de/c0/1QZaQPUf_o.jpg


and after a couple coats of satin black and laquer
https://images2.imgbox.com/04/e5/fvC6OgPJ_o.jpg


I need to fit my calipers, discs and pads on the front. I tried getting the original calipers off but ended up bending the wrench. They're fused on Gonna try attack them again.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


Got a few things today.


The turbo hose I ordered last week from Vaux actually arrived at my door today. A lady from the dealer turned up with the parts, what service!


Here's the hose:
https://images2.imgbox.com/38/68/w9NN7g1T_o.jpg


Then the postman left this, got it off Nick J from here (cheers pal) Sump pan oil level blanking plate:
https://images2.imgbox.com/09/5c/xF2QjUtm_o.jpg

I then went and picked this up from the Royal Mail local sorting office as they tried delivering it the other day when no one was at home.
https://images2.imgbox.com/60/f8/Bvh8eykj_o.jpg


8v sump baffle, got it off eBay for a good price. Have a few things to sort out, hoping to get some more stuff done later on.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


For some reason I started tiding up the garage and came across a box of miscellaneous bits for the Nova. Went through a few things to see what was usable and what needed chucking.


Found a few coolant hoses together with fuel hoses and a whole load of nuts and bolts. So guess what... yeah I cleaned them!


These were the coolant hoses
https://images2.imgbox.com/6c/e3/pyAeXrPK_o.jpg


On the face of it they look like they need chucking but only one of them did and that's the rad to thermostat hose due to this
https://images2.imgbox.com/56/af/sNixMgBw_o.jpg


^that one is actually made by Pirelli!


The other's were fine and it was time to wash it... wash it with Fabreeze... only kidding! Here they are after a good scrub and rinse
https://images2.imgbox.com/a4/1a/Fvax4xKk_o.jpg


Cleaned up all the jubilee clips too so everything now is lovely and new looking.


The box of nuts and bolts were in a right state, literally looked like someone took a dump on them. Left them to soak in detergent and then scrubbed them up. They look much better but I'm wondering what to do with them.


Here's how they stand
https://images2.imgbox.com/86/2b/14PgCmRj_o.jpg


Doesn't look super but trust me they're so much better than before.


I kinda got carried away tiding up so didn't spend much time on the Nova but I'm glad I got all the sh*tty looking stuff cleaned.

Pure OCD!

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


Made another trek to Vauxhall in the morning as I forgot a bit I needed. I was quoted £20 for a rubber hose from the crankcase breather to the Cam cover :eek: Asked about a crank sensor and that came up £93. Asked about the cam sensor and it wasn't listed.


Anywho, come home with the weather being crap and thought I'd work on something that was doable inside. Whipped off the rocker cover to
1) strip the paint and 2) to check see what the cams were like. Didn't know what to expect really, was kinda expecting a bit of surface rust on the cams as the engine wasn't used for a while by the last owner, and some old worn cams a, let's face it it's a 15 year old engine, but I was pleasantly surprised at the sight:
https://images2.imgbox.com/9a/7a/HFJoXX7g_o.jpg




Cams clean and smooth, no sign of any corrosion at all not even surface, everything looked fine. Compared to what I've seen with some engine before, I was quite pleased.


The cam cover is in ok condition with some peeling of paint where the rocker breather pipe is.
https://images2.imgbox.com/68/49/KD4E3npB_o.jpg


Firstly I gave it a scrub with detergent
https://images2.imgbox.com/c0/30/LLINowHO_o.jpg


I then thought about how I was gonna do it, lots of tight areas on the rocker which would be a royal pain to strip paint from. The area under the spark cover is clean and good so I decided that only the top part would need stripping. So I masked off the areas I wanted to strip
https://images2.imgbox.com/83/ad/bDwVEoR3_o.jpg


I applied some nitromoors and as I was using the wire brush attachment, I thought 'I've been here before'... trying to strip paint off the fanblades. It was so time consuming to get off that I stopped half way and thought 'f*ck it, I'm getting this sandblasted'


Gonna go drop off some bits tomorrow to a small place that does blasting, will gather a few other small bits together and get them done too. Just wondering if ABS plastic can be done too.

[maddogdaz666]

UPDATE
Just wondering if ABS plastic can be done too.
im pretty sure no plastics can be blasted

keep up the good work tho! :)

[Will F]

£93 for a crank sensor?! lol

Why arent you shopping at Autovaux?? Its all genuine stuff at trade prices - and they regularly import from Germany....

[Nova_Tek]

Always worth asking as, on occasions, there are surprising prices (in a good way). Autovaux will deffo get a call next week though :)

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

Went and got the rocker cover sand blasted yesterday after work.
https://images2.imgbox.com/d6/52/cNTsoMdy_o.jpg

I'm so glad I did it 'coz it took the chap almost an our to get it to it's current state. They guy said that the rocker cover must've been powder coated as it was a tough finish and took him a good few goes to adjust the blaster to give the best result.

He didn't do the spark plug cover as he said it would strip straight through it. Would've probably taken me 2 weeks to strip it with nitromoors and a wire brush lol

http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/2725/1002291l.jpg
Just wondering what to do what colour/s to spray. I'm good at painting but wondering if I should get it powder coated instead. We'll see how it goes :)

[fastcar1cars]

Sand blasted rocker cover u wanna make sure u get all the sand out of it otherwise........

[L14MNP]

Sand blasted rocker cover u wanna make sure u get all the sand out of it otherwise........


^ Seconded!!!

Looking great Tek. :thumb:

[Nova_Tek]

Oh yeah most deff mate, it's gonna get a real hardcore wash before it goes on.

[brucer]

dont forget the breather mod on the cover tek

[Nova_Tek]

Yeah was thinking of that infact. Just searching who's done it and the difference they felt.

UPDATE

Postman Pat left some bits in the letter box today :)

M8 x 13 (socket size) copper nuts for the inlet manifold. Need to get some copper washers for them too. The old ones are too past it to clean up

https://images2.imgbox.com/15/be/ywG3aYfO_o.jpg

http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/7887/1002296j.jpg

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

After picking up one crankcase breather to rocker cover hose
http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/2433/1002303j.jpg

I decided to carry on where I left off. So it was back to the rocker cover to clean it up and make usre there were no grains of sand left in there after the sand blasting.

Here's how it was:
https://images2.imgbox.com/ac/26/xzJGRtuF_o.jpg
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/2110/1002297d.jpg

With the breather plate removed:
https://images2.imgbox.com/1b/53/1jqfZhnk_o.jpg
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/263/1002298j.jpg

and the underside of the breather plate.
https://images2.imgbox.com/ce/46/dwYcV6qx_o.jpg
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/5601/1002299u.jpg

I shall call her 'Sandy'.

I started off by using a brillo pade to remove the larger amounts of sand but it was taking a good while trying to work into the smaller areas. I was losing patience so I got out the pressure washer lol Gave it a good blast, then worked in some detergent and left it to eat into the oily bits and gave it another blast. I then started cleaning the breather plate. This time I used a rough scouring pad and detergent and rinsed it out. Had trouble cleaning around the metal tabs as I knew I was gonna end up slicing my fingers. Here's how it finished up:
https://images2.imgbox.com/98/f8/FbL91UoY_o.jpg

http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/7144/1002301h.jpg
I then turned it over and gave it a rub down with wet and dry and gave it a final rinse.
https://images2.imgbox.com/33/2b/exG3qYE8_o.jpg
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/2707/1002302uc.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/83/98/HpeIOmIs_o.jpg
Was getting dark so I decided to call it a day and tidied up... wish I hadn't! As I was quickly winding up the hose my hand slipped and scraped across the concrete path and took off a good few layers of skin on my thumb and index finger joints ouch! :(

I'm feeling knackered!

[maddogdaz666]

As I was quickly winding up the hose my hand slipped and scraped across the concrete path and took off a good few layers of skin on my thumb and index finger joints ouch! :(

I'm feeling knackered!

Known locally as ''Idiot Rash!'' :) lol :)

[Nova_Tek]

'Idiot Rash' lol was ok at first but then started to sting like hell

[auzzy-b]

Are you planning on doing the breather mod?

[Nova_Tek]

Yes

[ryansnova]

Are you planning on doing the breather mod?

i dont know wit that is :wtf:

[L14MNP]

As I was quickly winding up the hose my hand slipped and scraped across the concrete path and took off a good few layers of skin on my thumb and index finger joints ouch! :(

You won't get any sympathy from me atm! I dropped a WRX front seat on my (bare) foot yesterday and have broken a toe and bruised the fcuk out of my foot, can barely get shoes on and have a gangsta limp! lol

[Nova_Tek]

double postage... oops! Posted when it shouldn't have

[Nova_Tek]

i dont know wit that is :wtf:

Read through the link below and all will be told
http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114039 (http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114039)



You won't get any sympathy from me atm! I dropped a WRX front seat on my (bare) foot yesterday and have broken a toe and bruised the fcuk out of my foot, can barely get shoes on and have a gangsta limp! lol

Ouch... but why are you walking around bare footed?

(trying to think of a witty and relevant F&F quote but can't think of one :( )

[L14MNP]

Dunno lol. Had just got the interior out of the loft to sell it. Had the front seats folded flat to get them out of the hatch, then took one downstairs and put the front down on the mat and pulled the lever to straighten the back rest but the damn thing was so vicious when it sprung forward that It was pulled out of my hand (plastic covers). Big fail there. lol

I shoulda had some Mashimoto ZX shoes on? lol

[Nova_Tek]

lol Mashimoto ZX's

[scott.parker]

Dude, don't bother painting the rocker cover, as the heat will more then likely (mine did/has) shrink the paint and create splits in it etc, so i say powder coat it, same with plug cover IMO.

Scott

[ryansnova]

[quote=Nova_Tek]Read through the link below and all will be told
http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114039 (http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114039)

thanks just had a read thru it lol lol

[Nova_Tek]

Dude, don't bother painting the rocker cover, as the heat will more then likely (mine did/has) shrink the paint and create splits in it etc, so i say powder coat it, same with plug cover IMO.

Scott

I've painted a few rocker covers and haven't had much problems. I could just use VHT paint :) I have been thinking about getting it powder coated though.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


Got back home from work today and thought I'd do the breather mod.


Marked where I wanted to cut the plate
https://images2.imgbox.com/72/f2/l91ylqQ2_o.jpg


Then using a small hacksaw I cut it down to size
https://images2.imgbox.com/a9/76/M21ZbK7h_o.jpg


I then checked over the rocker and removed any sealant, dust, dirt left over and then re-fitted the modified plate
https://images2.imgbox.com/b2/68/ctnTRiaM_o.jpg


I then got the last of the hoses that needed cleaning and checking. A couple needed to be replaced but the rest needed a good clean
https://images2.imgbox.com/ac/6a/usOj0EIl_o.jpg


Gave them all a scrub with the usual detergent and hot water and got them to this stage
https://images2.imgbox.com/46/b4/YDgFOb8k_o.jpg


Did have a bit of a casualty so need to go buy one of these
https://images2.imgbox.com/b3/c0/CgkLPQMR_o.jpg

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

As I said on the Cav project thread... so much to do, so little time.

Went and collected another bit today... this lovely breather hose (which they actually had in stock there and then would you believe):
https://images2.imgbox.com/82/99/0ByM2oCM_o.jpg
http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/1056/1002314dv.jpg

Can't really do much over the weekend as I'm working but I have a full week off from Monday (good thing too as my right hand has been sliced to bits!). I plan to get the LET up on the stand and start bolting things back to it thus clearing space in the house & garage and making the final preparations to get the engine fitted. There are still a few bits that are needed but I'm hoping that by the end of next week these will all be in my hands.

I'm just hoping things go to plan (they never do but you can only hope lol)

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


After a bit of a lay in today I got to work. I found this in the garage looking like utter crap... it was the clutch inspection plate from the gearbox. My OCD wouldn't allow this to stay like this, had to get it sorted.
https://images2.imgbox.com/f1/e3/ZsAJpqgl_o.jpg


https://images2.imgbox.com/02/a4/PW8ocIUu_o.jpg

Gave it a scrub, wash, rinse, dry and a wipe and got it like this
https://images2.imgbox.com/d5/86/ycl7lrft_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/5e/e8/SlYGp2NY_o.jpg

Gave it a couple coats of acid etch primer
https://images2.imgbox.com/b7/50/Us9gStVT_o.jpg


Let it dry and then gave it a rub down with 800 grit ready for some paint. gave it a few coats of black and got it to this stage.
https://images2.imgbox.com/cc/f3/64UxhAQj_o.jpg


For some reason I got a reflection of a very handsome bloke on it :d I let it dry for a bit then gave it a generous coat of oil resistant lacquer
https://images2.imgbox.com/5c/92/FR8YZnbs_o.jpg


(there's that good looking bloke again in the shot ) I left it in view of sunlight to aid drying then put it in the garage to properly dry.



It was now midish afternoon and I made my way to Vaux to pick up something I ordered last week. I popped by B&Q and got a fresh tin of nitromoors and spirit in preparation to strip the paint off the block. After all that hard work, I treated myself to some Krispy Kreme... yum... and made my way back home.


Finally I can fit the oil level blanking plate seeing as I've now got the o-ring seal for the sump

https://images2.imgbox.com/07/f9/lCt431eo_o.jpg


Fitted that to the sump and also made sure the sump baffle was the right one
https://images2.imgbox.com/9a/d4/wKd9UNX2_o.jpg


By now the gearbox inspection plate was properly dry.
https://images2.imgbox.com/83/ab/8eoS08zq_o.jpg


I also found these in one of the boxes that came with the engine

https://images2.imgbox.com/c8/a8/VSLIXHHt_o.jpg


+
https://images2.imgbox.com/a5/44/g1ZGGV7t_o

https://images2.imgbox.com/a5/44/g1ZGGV7t_o.jpg

=

https://images2.imgbox.com/3c/b8/Ao4NljVY_o.jpg

(new exhaust stud on the left and old crusty one on the right). Unfortunately, whoever had the engine before me only bought one of these bits and they are all as bad as the one pictured next to it. Hope AutoVaux can get some for me when I call them tomorrow.

Plan of action for tomorrow would be to assemble the engine stand and get the LET on it.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

Had a bit of a draw back today as it's been raining on and off :(

Did however get something delivered just a moment ago... ooohh I wonder what it is...
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/406/1002330c.jpg

http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/5381/1002331n.jpg
HID's :d

After lots of thinking and actually seeing them work on my bro's car and on my mates V-Dub van I decided to go for it.

These are the H4 Bi-Xenon 6000k 35w kit. Same ones fitted to my bro's Cav.

Think I'll go fit them :d

[nova_niek]

HID's are cool! Go get them fitted and show some before/after pics if you can. :)

[brucer]

hell them ballasts are small, the kit i had a few years ago i had to move heaven and earth to find a place for them to fit.

how much was that kit?

[Nova_Tek]

HID's are cool! Go get them fitted and show some before/after pics if you can. :)

Will do my best or might just compare my Nova next to the SR :)


hell them ballasts are small, the kit i had a few years ago i had to move heaven and earth to find a place for them to fit.

how much was that kit?

Yeah pretty much the thinnest around, great thing is that they take very little space to fit as you'll see.

The price was brilliant, pretty much most of the kits from the UK on eBay are the same but prices differ. I made an offer and got it for £50 + p&p brand new.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


So I had dinner and went to the garage with the HID kit. I spent quite a bit of time scoping out hidden areas large enough to keep the ballast, igniter and wiring hidden from view.


The way the kits are wired is that they only make do with one of the bulb plugs (3 Pin) and that's just used as a signal to switch it on. So one side will have slightly more wiring than the other. I picked the driver side headlamp area to hold all the extra stuff as there's much more room.


Here's where I fixed the hardware (please excuse the dust, grease and dirt; really does need a good clean in there):
https://images2.imgbox.com/a9/95/6CLvG3Kp_o.jpg


Switch - located on the underside of the slam panel just behind the driver side headlamp.
https://images2.imgbox.com/66/eb/r83GkyK7_o.jpg


Ballast and igniter (both sides) - have been situated on the inner wing directly besides the headlamp (Nova's have loads of room there ).


The wiring for the other headlamp runs from the switch to the other side. I ran this up next to the wiring that runs under the slam panel. Everything is hidden from view as I clipped the cable under the slam panel as opposed to on top where it normally would be.


As for the headlamps, no modification needed as you'll see below.


One headlamp removed
https://images2.imgbox.com/aa/5c/1Ge5Cy2T_o.jpg




Only modding needed was for the rubber headlamp cover. Had to cut a larger hole for the wires and the larger base of the HID burner to fit through
https://images2.imgbox.com/5e/63/Fyztxa3Y_o.jpg


Removed the old bulb which was a Philips 60w/55w brillaint white 4500k halogen (actually a good bulb), then fitted the shield in place. The HID burner then slots and locks into the shield.
https://images2.imgbox.com/79/dd/61LHRlWJ_o.jpg

The rubber cover fitted back.
https://images2.imgbox.com/9e/8a/xAbu5Kgz_o.jpg


All that's left is to lengthen the fused power cable and run it in a way so it cannot be seen. Can't wait to switch them on


Note to self... buy battery.

[Benn]

Ah these are the new type kits, much much smaller than the stuff i had. Looking good.

[scott.parker]

Humm, nice, i didn't think hids worked to well though in normal light units, as there meant for projectors?

Any link to the seller?

Scott

[Nova_Tek]

Ah these are the new type kits, much much smaller than the stuff i had. Looking good.

Thanks Benn, I remember your kit. Glad I decided to buy them now as there are more better quality ones on the market now and for good prices. Plus the technology has been around for longer so probably more reliable too.


Humm, nice, i didn't think hids worked to well though in normal light units, as there meant for projectors?

Any link to the seller?

Scott

After seeing them work in my bro's Cav and my mate's work van (which don't have projector) I decided to buy a set. In the Cav they work great, good beam definition and pattern and his Cav has had 3 MOT's in that time. They look a lot better in OE headlamp lenses (even with Halogen bulbs in copy lenses the beam isn't as defined like in OE lenses). Seeing as the Nova headlamps are OE GM then I'm confident.

I'll find a link to the seller.

UPDATE

Weather has been on and off today but as there was a dry spell I assembled the engine stand.
https://images2.imgbox.com/d8/aa/AThvP7gO_o.jpg


https://images2.imgbox.com/fa/4d/jfGhzaSb_o.jpg


After a kebab lunch I went into the garage and finished off the passenger side wiring up of the HID. Main thing was to fix the ballast and igniter to the inner wing. As it was the opposite side it didn't fit as easy as it did on the driver side due to the position of the power output wires. None-the-less I got them sorted and they are virtually completely hidden. For those that want to know, I affixed them with velcro


I called up AutoVaux and asked about a few bits. They quoted me £38 + vat for crank sensor (Vaux quoted £90 odd) the LET has no cam sensor, timing kit £41 + vat (cheapest online factor quoted £51 + vat). Also got a couple other bits too which should be here on Friday. Soon as I sort out an eBay payment issue I should be getting another very important bit too


Should also be getting a number off the lads at the bodyshop for chap they know who does powder coating, gonna get the rocker cover done in that finish.

[scott.parker]

Swert fancy a aet for my mk4 Astra

[Spudly]

Swert fancy a aet for my mk4 Astra



You need to buy the bulb adapters from the bay in order to fit them to mk4's Scott, H7 is the set you need and are different to the sets used with the sheild over them as the H4 kit mr Tek has!

[Nova_Tek]

Humm, nice, i didn't think hids worked to well though in normal light units, as there meant for projectors?

Any link to the seller?

Scott

Here you are pal a link to the seller's current listing. These are the H4's though, if you want one for Astra's then you'll need to have a look at his other stuff. Funny how now that I've got it he's got a special offer on them lol May just have to buy one for the missus's Yaris (H4 too) ;)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330379346373&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

If the above link is in breach of the rules I'll remove it.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


Lots of little chores today meant I was pulled away from working some more on the project. I did however get a the bolts needed to get the engine on the stand. There's me thinking that the bolts that hold the gearbox to the block will be fine... wrong! Too short!


Popped over to the nearest hardware store and got these, some long M12 bolts x2 and x4 M12 nuts:
https://images2.imgbox.com/b8/76/Aa3xTNkV_o.jpg


Together with the gearbox mount bolts, I've secured the swivel head of the engine stand to the block. Tomorrow I'll be getting a hand at lifting the LET on to the stand so the work can commence.


Got a few bits from Le Courier today who kindly brought me the bits I got from AutoVaux:


Crank sensor:
https://images2.imgbox.com/8c/bd/6caJg4Va_o.jpg


Timing belt kit (tensioner, rollers & belt)
https://images2.imgbox.com/17/32/bzJd1e90_o.jpg


And these bad boys which I've searched high and low after finding out Vaux don't do them anymore:


12x brand new exhaust studs
https://images2.imgbox.com/48/f6/bkL9DV2Z_o.jpg


12x brand new copper exhaust manifold nuts
https://images2.imgbox.com/f2/46/MyiZA268_o.jpg


I did do a few things when I managed to get home. There was a whole load of gaffer tape left on the mating surface of the exhaust outlet, think the last owner had some of the stuff on there to cover the ports. Scraped it all off and cleaned it all up, removed all the old manky, crusty, crappy old studs and nuts and covered the ports with masking tape.


There was more of this tape covering pipes and stuff on the block so I did the same. The paint on the block looks like it'll come off with ease as I could easily strip it with scraper so nitromoors will breeze through it. One thing that has totally pixxed me off is a part I won on ebay, a part that I've been looking for... inline fuel pump bracket that fits under the passenger rear arch.


I won it on Saturday and paid for it a few hours later. Got an email from eBay 'reminding' me to pay. So I got to pay and it says 'transaction for this item has been completed'


- So I contact the seller and ask if he's got the payment. He says 'no'.
- Call up eBay and explain, they said 'payment has been made and is being processed so call PayPal'.
- Call PayPal and they say 'no such payment'.
- Call back eBay and explain. They check and say 'the payment hasn't been claimed, possibly due to incorrect paypal details of the seller' .
- So I contact seller via email (which so far he has replied swiftly) yesterday and no answer just yet


Total waste of time as I purchased the rubber bushes (yet to arrive thought) and was hoping I'd get that fitted and wire up the pump.


Anywho, I just hope I get this part in the end.


Hoping to get the engine up on the stand to put things back...

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

After going for a jog in the morning then dropping by to get my mobile upgrade :d I got home and together with my uncle and bro we lifted the LET by hand on to the engine stand.

https://images2.imgbox.com/8c/12/6XAQSA0b_o.jpg
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/9476/1002346v.jpg

After a bit of a rest and some food lol I started applying some nitromoors to the block, first front then back. Left it for 15 mins then re-applied some more. Left that for 30 mins and tried stripping it with a scraper... didn't exactly work very swiftly so I got out the old wire brush and drill.

After a few mins of stripping it got to this stage.
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/475/1002347n.jpg
https://images2.imgbox.com/a1/56/GmM8XCRf_o.jpg

I was covered in sh*t and so was everywhere else, nitromoors don't half sting when it gets on your skin. I called it a day and will continue tomorrow.

[brainsnova]

Nitromoors in the eye is what I got when it splashed it on my vespa oh and nice progress :thumb:

[Nova_Tek]

^ I know how that feels, managed to get some in my eye too!

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

Made a bit more progress on stripping the head and block of paint. The pain comes of easy but there are so many nooks and crannies it's a right pain. But I'm almost done (no pics though).

I did realise however that AutoVaux sent me the wrong timing kit so I'll need to give them a call and send it back and get the proper one.

The one they sent has two guides whereas the LET I got has one (in saying that the belt they sent had the same shaped teeth as the pulleys)
https://images2.imgbox.com/61/48/pkylCr1h_o.jpg
http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/4651/1002348q.jpg

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


Called up AutoVaux to arrange an exchange of the timing kit I got, should hopefully have one by the end of the week soon as I send the one I got back. Chaps there are very efficient. Did get another couple bits in the post today, got the rubber mounts for the pump cradle (which hasn't arrived yet)
https://images2.imgbox.com/ee/e2/YlJSK6Uj_o.jpg

And I got this too, I went round every independant motorfactor, big stores like Halfords, hardware stores and found absolutely nothing to do what I wanted i.e. connect to 6mm petrol hoses together. In the end good ol' eBay did the trick and I got this (old Vs new):
https://images2.imgbox.com/8e/0c/C910uhmK_o.jpg


Just for a couple quid, and it won't melt after a few years being subjected to fuel as it's made of brass.


Still expecting a couple more bits to arrive apart from the pump cradle.


Hoping the hardcore blustery wind gives up.

[brucer]

yours is a round tooth tek, glad your sorting it. ive had a few parts off them myself and pretty good.

keep it up

[Nova_Tek]

Thanks dude, should have it soon.

Got a couple more things today... ordered some high pressure rubber injection hoses to use. Got 1m of 6mm & 2m of 8mm just to use here and there around the bay and fuel pump (anything that isn't sepcially shaped which would costa fortune from Vauxhall). Only cost £7 in total. Couple motorfactors wanted £6 a metre. Halfords didn't even stock it.

Looks to be good quality reinforced hose:
http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/1600/1002351r.jpg
https://images2.imgbox.com/54/b2/xeapo0kQ_o.jpg
http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/6430/1002352o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/f4/0a/1kmMof0s_o.jpg

You managed to get yours running without cutting out?

[brucer]

havnt tried to fix it yet, want to get the exhaust on and everything neat and tidy before i try fix something that could be because of something i havnt got connected yet.

shouldnt be long until we hear yours fire up. :D

[Nova_Tek]

Well... yes and no... a tad longer as me and a good mate will be stripping the LET and freshening it up. After thinking long and hard, for the price of new big ends and main bearings, rings and a head set it would be almost silly not to as the history of it is unknown.

Should start stripping it soon to see what's what and get an idea of what will need doing.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


It's been a short while since my last update. It's been a case of waiting for things to turn up really. Still waiting for the pump cradle/pump/fuel damper to turn up.


The exchanged timing kit turned up also
https://images2.imgbox.com/50/56/cmgRMfNZ_o.jpg


In the mean time I got a few bits that were also needed. I was doing a bit of tiding up the other day when I remembered that the door seals were a little corroded on the ends. Measured up the ones fitted and ordered a length from ebay:


Original
https://images2.imgbox.com/5b/e8/HhizqsSD_o.jpg





eBay item
https://images2.imgbox.com/0e/2f/8ok5sS44_o.jpg


https://images2.imgbox.com/97/b0/KRQJIxY0_o.jpg


A pretty good match with only a 1mm-2mm difference in thickness (largest size available on ebay). Shouldn't cause a problem though.



Also got some 13mm fuel hose rated 20BAR and a 13mm - 8mm brass reducer just in case.
https://images2.imgbox.com/70/74/PCSApU8O_o.jpg




Whilst in the garage I found the caliper dust caps in a crap state so being bored and not really wanting to spend time in the garden in the rain I thought I'd get them sorted as well


Original state
https://images2.imgbox.com/5b/7d/8xsWRKNS_o.jpg


After a clean up
https://images2.imgbox.com/b1/23/oEqvRNoS_o.jpg


bit of etch primer
https://images2.imgbox.com/4f/e8/j4JWna7X_o.jpg


and coat of stoneship spray
https://images2.imgbox.com/47/59/6X49wDK0_o.jpg


Also waiting for my good mate to tell me what days he has off. Problem is that he almost always works weekdays where I always work weekends. First would be to strip and check parts and order them. Then set a side a few days to fit the parts and rebuild. If worst comes to worst then I'll have to take another few days off work if we can't agree on free days... lucky I still got a few weeks of holiday left

[Benn]

Oo good buy on the rubber edging strip. I need some of that too.

[istf]

It looks dangerous :D
http://www.kephost.org/di-TAJ3.jpg

[Nova_Tek]

^ lol + rep for that


Oo good buy on the rubber edging strip. I need some of that too.

Yes Benn, was £4.09 per metre and measures at 20mm x 27mm with the ones fitted to Nova's measure at approx 20mm x 29mm. I only really needed a length to cut out the worn bit and fit the new bit in as the rest of the rubber was in really good condition.

link to the sellers page; http://stores.ebay.co.uk/monkeydubautoparts

[Benn]

Nice, i wanna replace the whole rubber one mine so..

[Nova_Tek]

You'll need a good 3 metres or so per door.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

Had to go try out the rubber door seal lol Cut out the bad bit from the door and made sure the current seal was fitted properly in the correct position. I then measured up the gap that was left over and cut the new one to size and fitted it in between .

Have to say that the seal I got is a perfect fit, and near as makes no difference the same size as the original one.

Before
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/7936/1002366z.jpg
https://images2.imgbox.com/d1/19/m7DwPAMY_o.jpg

After
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/2169/1002367i.jpg
https://images2.imgbox.com/04/0a/QIgeSVvE_o.jpg

Once happy with the fit, I added a touch of black sealant around the lip of the rubber seal so it bonds with the existing rubber seal. Happy with the outcome and when the current stuff is completely worn out I know what to get and who to get it from :)

I then gathered all the nuts, bolts, washers, clamps, jubilee clips etc to send to the electro-platers. Some will be getting gold plated and others will be chrome plated. I'm also gonna enquire to see if the place can electro-plate the rocker cover in 'black chrome'... example below:
http://www.4chrome.com/Chrome4.jpg
https://images2.imgbox.com/fb/e4/CxmRf7NR_o.jpg
I split the bits into two groups. This lot will be gold plated ^ there will be a fair few more jubilee clips added to that lot

And these will be chrome plated (will probably add a few more bits to that group)
https://images2.imgbox.com/9f/e9/y6V7tmc6_o.jpg
http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/9373/1002369z.jpg


Some people may feel that gold plating is a bit 'tacky' but I'll only be using the gold plated items when against any black painted object i.e. rubber hoses, rocker cover etc just to accent certain areas. :)

Need to buy a few more various sized multi purpose bolts for around the bay and get them chromed up too.

[Benn]

You'll need a good 3 metres or so per door.

Wanna do the boot, that's all.

[Nova_Tek]

What do we think of these?
https://images2.imgbox.com/8b/88/bHh00I0x_o.jpg

http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/7740/imag0160b.jpg
[ ^ Come out really well on the HTC Sensations camera :d ]

Came across them on my travels today as we were stopped at a garage to ask a few questions as my bro's Cav has a bit of a clutch related problem. Saw them and thought 'hmmmmmmm'. Very close to BBS CH's (which I really like) and as it's proving to be a ball ache to find CH's in 16" I'm hoping that these will be ok (when I find out info on them). It's either CH style or BBS LM's but even the replicas are crazy offset :(

Off to raid the interwebz for infos.

[Nova_Tek]

Found a bit of info on them

MAKE: Riva
MODEL: DTM
SIZES: Available from 17" x 7J
OFFSET: 35mm/45mm
STUD/PCD: 5x120 / 4x100

An inch too big :cry

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


Not much time spent done due to work. Have got a few things in the post, although some of them not what I ordered


Firstly got the bits from Jack (thanks again dude )


Rear Braided Brake Lines
https://images2.imgbox.com/e4/22/2394NtpX_o.jpg


And a lower strut brace
https://images2.imgbox.com/57/94/BjD3dr32_o.jpg


The other day as I was messing around in the bay looking at what needed to be plated and in what finish... I saw the headlamp screws looking utter sh*te and not very tight fitting. Dunno about anyone else but over the years the screws that hold the headlamps to the slam panel vary slowly got larger and so has the screw hole. I found a couple screws in the garage that do up nice and tight and fit the larger sized holes. They were some random M8 sized bolt. So I ordered a pack. Contemplated if I should go for the same type bolts as will be fitted to the rocker cover or something else. In the end, looking at the slightly worn plastic bracket on the headlamps themselves, I opted for a hex bit button head M8x16 bolt. Large enough to fit the enlarged hole in the slam panel, large enough head to hold down the headlamp and will do up nice and tight. Also got some washers too.


Button head M8's
https://images2.imgbox.com/ef/bb/dVoUVvAY_o.jpg


M8 washers
https://images2.imgbox.com/a9/5f/5rZq6KoI_o.jpg


These will also be plated


One thing that is totally f*cking me off is that eBay part I got now three weeks ago. Yet to arrive. Seller has apologised for the delay but that was a week ago. Don't wanna open a dispute coz I really do need that so I'm just hoping it arrives soon

[Benn]

Nice, they will look much better.

[Nova_Tek]

Oh yes mate, taking a leaf out of your book fo' sho' ;)

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

Well things are at a standstill really... called the plating company near me who said ''ok... send us an email with a list of things that need to be plated so we can quote you''. So I thought 'sounds reasonable'.. sent them an email with images to give them an idea... that was more than a week ago! :mad:

Then the dude with my pump and bracket bits still hasn't done jack (eBay)! Now I'd normally not take this kind of bullsheets and dispute or raise a case but this, as some of us may know, is a fairly rare part so... I've re-contacted him asking what's going on so hopefully he gets his backside into gear.

Q:Anyone know what size hole is needed to be drilled in order for the rubber loom grommet to fit in and seal up?

Finally, after realising the button head bolts I got were actually too big (measuring error, I actually needed M6's :tard:), I re-ordered another pack of button head M6's together with some spare allen key head ones in case, again M6.

http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/2398/1002384y.jpg

The M8 button heads I got will be used for something else, I'm sure there is something I can use them for :)

Just need to get replies from people to get things planned. I'm off on Sunday (woooo) so I'm really hoping that I get the LET stripped... we'll see, not going to count my chickens just yet :roll:

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

Well I only realised on Saturday that Sunday was fathers day :tard:, so no joy in meeting up and starting work on the LET.

I'm also beginning to get really funked off at a few people. One is the guy on eBay that still needs to send me the pump assembly I won last month. I messaged him telling him to either send it or expect a dispute to be opened up :mad:

Secondly are these plating companies... They both state that email is best form of communication for quotes etc. I emailed one company 2 weeks ago with pictures explaining what I want, then a follow up email on Monday... no reply! :mad:

I then found anther company near by which offered the same services. I also emailed them and so far... you guessed it, no reply. What is it with people now-a-days. You write them an email in a professional manner about services they offer and no one ever gets back to you. Fine they may be busy but how long does it take to read and respond to an email? A simple 'sorry pal we don't do small plating job' would suffice! :mad:

I did however received these today
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/5604/1002386k.jpg
https://images2.imgbox.com/02/09/5OJYDPJo_o.jpg

Good condition, no bad wear, all good for the princely sum of £3.18 + postage lol

Still contemplating whether to use both inlet and exhaust cam (cannot recall what the overall gain was with both cams fitted). I know it'll be a spur of the moment 'what the hell' decision if it does get fitted lol

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

Great news... finally got the pump cradle assembly :D I got an ebay message from the actual account holder apologising that the item hadn't been dealt with as her son was the one using her account and selling the bit. She, apparently, had strong words with him and she posted the bits out immediately

As it came:
https://images2.imgbox.com/d1/45/w4LdPMjS_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/c9/9b/WInldDae_o.jpg

And after spending a good 35 mins getting everything off which had literally fused and rusted into each other it became like this:
https://images2.imgbox.com/57/21/KQcVADmX_o.jpg

I then attacked it (hardcore you know the score), with the power drill and wire brush/wheel, 40 grit paper and a hammer (works wonders getting off large hardened flaky bits) I got it to this stage
https://images2.imgbox.com/d8/98/UwO7NDnR_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/1a/cb/x9whe3VS_o.jpg

(not the greatest pics phone was going flat so no flash and the proper camera was dead too )

Think I'm gonna need a new fuel damper as the on on there now is totally funked and if I tried hard enough I could probably stick a screw driver in it as it's rusted to sh*t. It was absolutely chucking it down with plenty of thunder storms too so skipped spraying it.

I also got this vital item from Nick J (Cheers dude )

Hoping the weather is good tomorrow, day off should see me get it painted.

[Nova_Tek]

. Post error!

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

Continuing from where I left off... As yesterday was a sunny day I cracked on with finishing off the pump cradle. Got it ready for a spot of painting and waiting for the acid etch primer to dry (didn't get shots of that part). A good few coats of black paint and let it dry.
https://images2.imgbox.com/48/eb/bGJkmKCP_o.jpg

Once it did, I gave it a coat of petrol resistant lacquer and let it dry.

I turned my attentions on the spare fuel pump which I cleaned and rubbed down
https://images2.imgbox.com/13/4b/ZrM3mIFN_o.jpg

and gave it a few coats of paint as well
https://images2.imgbox.com/59/39/P18206Q4_o.jpg

Let that dry and then moved on to the in-line fuel damper. It was in a mess. I was interested to see how far the rust would go as it looked way past it. Couldn't use any power tools so did it all by hand but I eventually got it to this state:



https://images2.imgbox.com/77/39/lYawRCsw_o.jpg

There was a lot of surface crust but it was solid underneath and the nipples where mint, seeing as there were no leaks I gave it a few coats of paint. By the time I got the damper clean the black paint had dried enough for a few coats of lacquer. Gave it and the pump clamp plenty of coats and let that dry over night. I also cleaned up the jubilee clips and cut a new length of hose between the fuel filter and damper.

This morning the lacquer was rock hard so I re-assembled the pump. I just need a nice metal clamp to fit around and retain the filter and it's on with fitting the rubber bushes to the Nova's underside and bolting it up and connecting to the tank

Here's how it looks:
https://images2.imgbox.com/41/7b/K4QflC1V_o.jpg

Pleased that it looks so much better then when I first got it.

[brucer]

congrats on how well you cleaned the fuel damper, i didnt bother with mine as they tend to be rusty as! maybe in the future ill take it off and paint it.

still coming on though mate.

[Nova_Tek]

Cheers man,

Was tempted to throw it away but decided to investigate it a bit further, amazing what a hammer can do, takes off flakey rusty bits so easily.

Just a case of getting my mate to give me a date so we can get the LET sorted.

[Lee H]

That bracket for the fuel pump has been well bent. The fuel filter shouldn't be mounted there, it mounts on the tank. I think the assembly as you have it will hang far too low?

Edit - Doesn't look like a Nova one?

[Nova_Tek]

It looks rather straight to me, it is rather easy to be though. I know there are a few types of these cradle things but to be honest they are hard to get hold of. I needed to get one, as it's one of the last things I actually need, so worth a shot.

I got this the other day finally. After getting sent totally the wrong item from these guys, I then sent it back. They sent me the correct item which never turned up so after contacting them they re-sent another one lol

http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/4053/1002387h.jpg

Needed a few assorted sizes so this fit the bill just fine and comes with it's screw driver.

[istf]

http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/1861/1002387.jpg
A few cable tie and it's a complete Nova Survivor Kit :)

[Nova_Tek]

:)

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

What can I say... it has been a while since I've updated the thread/worked on the project.

Woke up real early to take my bro and his fiance to the airport. Drove there in the SR and managed to find out that it is a good 6 - 7 mph out on the speedo compared to GPS speed (No surprises I guess). Anyway... got home and called my mate telling him I was ready when he was. About 15 minutes later he arrived with all the tools.

Got the LET into the back garden as it was a lovely warm sunny day, finally!

Got to work slowly stripping off the head and making our way around the block. We got to the cam belt side, stripping the tensioners etc off and moved on to the toothed bottom pulley. Had a moment of uncertainty/doubt after all the force needed to take the bottom pulley bolt off, the crank didn't budge (but the bolt cam off fine). We both were wondering what we'd find. We soldiered on and removed the timing cover back plate and eventually cracked off the head. At this point I didn't know what to expect. Knowing the engine hadn't run for the best part of a couple years, it was either gonna be 'oh sh*t, what a state!' or 'ok... that's not bad' or 'wow... that's flippin' awesome!'. I'd say it was more the second scenario of 'ok... that's not bad'

We then spun the block round with no head to start removing the pistons and hopefully finding the reason why the crank wouldn't turn by hand. Started off with piston 2, then 3, then 1 and lastly 4. Pistons slotted out with ease. Crank still wouldn't turn. So we started coming up with a few possibilities. Looking and the bearings it seemed that they were well worn. We continued to remove the caps for the crank itself. Undoing them was straight forward but a few bolts were a bit too easy to undo... hmmm.

A couple of the caps came off fine, the other two were slightly stiffer and needed a bit of persuasion. Two of them were missing a bearing. So we started coming up with more conclusions.

1) 'maybe the last owner was a fu*king retard',
2) 'maybe the engine was gonna be built back up, but then had given up on and temporarily reassembled for the time being'.

Reason two seemed more likely.

We tried to see if the crank would lift or turn now that all but one cap were removed, but still wouldn't shift! The final cap at the fly wheel end was a right ball ache to remove, took 10 mins of faffing around to get it out but it finally did. At that point we found out why the crank didn't budge. A 17mm spanner and 2 minutes later and the crank was moving! It turns out (pardon the pun) that the fly wheel bolts were tightened all the way in and were pretty much locking the crank. Sigh of relief. No major issues just expected wear on an old engine.

Enough of my jibber jabber, took a few pics of what was uncovered.

One stripped GM head. Didn't remove the valves as my mate didn't have his tool with him.
https://images2.imgbox.com/a2/d6/nR9fq71k_o.jpg

And the other side. Valves looking fine but looks like some signs of det
https://images2.imgbox.com/51/53/BtY5rND4_o.jpg

Head gasket didn't seem to have any obvious issues

Cams and lifters all out and looking ok. Lifter could do with a clean as some are firmer/softer than others but there are two that seemed to have seized. A few cam lobes have slight scuffing and a couple camshaft caps pulley side have a bit of scoring on them so may need to be replaced.
https://images2.imgbox.com/71/19/M6x5ns86_o.jpg

One filthy GM oil pump needing one hell of a clean inside and out most likely.
https://images2.imgbox.com/27/51/c8KdN4Fq_o.jpg

This will deffo be getting the paint treatment... Absolutely dirty!

All the pistons had good rings, undamaged which was a good sign. Still will get renewed of course but nice to see. The pistons did however all show something odd

Piston 1
https://images2.imgbox.com/c6/80/jtyCqNPG_o.jpg

Piston 2
https://images2.imgbox.com/44/34/fdFXAwSf_o.jpg

Piston 3
https://images2.imgbox.com/37/d4/zUJGVLLk_o.jpg

Piston 4
https://images2.imgbox.com/18/e7/cp8a6RW9_o.jpg

Did anyone notice? I know the pistons have valve cut outs on the face, but they all seem to have an extra indentation that looks like they've been struck by a valve. Inspecting the valves we noticed nothing out of the ordinary so the only thing we could conclude was that something happened way in the past and the pistons were reused. Unless someone can shed some light as to why it could be like that. Contemplating what to do with them.

...

[Nova_Tek]

...continued from previous page

Example of one of the bearings
https://images2.imgbox.com/d4/5e/FzzrMv8P_o.jpg


Another two taken out on close up (ignore the indentations in the middle, that was to persuade the pistons to come out but the score marks are the wear that has occurred).
https://images2.imgbox.com/da/cb/HkcnkVSY_o.jpg


More bearings once the crank was removed
https://images2.imgbox.com/c7/a3/ydleKnih_o.jpg



Shot of the bores
https://images2.imgbox.com/71/4b/KW78WeiL_o.jpg


Close ups:
Bores 1, 2 & 3 (looking from left to right)
https://images2.imgbox.com/36/42/FGfnGOmq_o.jpg


Bores 2, 3 & 4 (looking from left to right)
https://images2.imgbox.com/7b/39/GX0pDPO1_o.jpg


Finally the crank
https://images2.imgbox.com/41/79/fO8NzNre_o.jpg


Will be sending the block to an engineering company with the crank for a good clean up and to have the crank checked. Some scoring on the crank so want to get it checked. First things first will be to get things cleaned up and then start buying some fresh new bits that are needed.

[Nova_Tek]

Righty,

I need some tips on cleaning caked up internal bits. Something that will make my life easier and requiring less elbow grease. Got brake cleaner/engine degreaser/carb cleaner type cleaners coming to mind but I don't wanna be in a situation where I have to use many litres of already expensive fluids. Would oven cleaners work and remove carbon deposits? Is it possible to use abrasives like very fine wet n dry?

Gen me up.

And before I forget I did receive this from Lee H but don't think I updated it on the thread:
https://images2.imgbox.com/50/10/TjDGICJk_o.jpg
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/2534/1002430o.jpg

Also are there any 'how to's' about on cleaning up XE/LET hydraulic lifters?

[brainsnova]

http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?145565-*HOW-TO*-take-apart-and-clean-c20xe-lifters

[Nova_Tek]

:thumb:


You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to brainsnova again

Damn it!

[brainsnova]

I'm sure mowgli said to clean litters with mr muscle as it's non abrasive so that might work on other parts but maybe pm him to check :thumb:

[Nova_Tek]

Lifters and stuff would probably do fine with brake cleaner type sprays. But the pistons have a bit of caking so need something real strong.

[brainsnova]

I used a wire brush on my pistons years ago lol

[Nova_Tek]

I got Nylon brush that would probably help to shift some dirt but I'd really like to have something that will dissolve most of it. Guess it's a case of experimenting.

[novacabrio]

Maybe soak them in petrol? Or do what I do and stick everything in the dishwasher lol

[Nova_Tek]

Diesel came to mind. Dishwasher did come to mind but my mum would kill me if I stuck oily bits in there. She's on holiday but mum's always know that somethings happened lol

[scott.parker]

Over night soak in full fat value cokeacola??

[Nova_Tek]

Interesting idea that

[brucer]

wire wheel for pistons, thats how i cleaned my set up. takes off carbon easy.

[Nova_Tek]

Yeah wire wheel would eat that sh*t up easy.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


After doing 7 days in a row at work I finally had a day off... wooooo! So I got cracking. Thought I'd give the hydraulic tappets a crack and see if I could clean them and unstick the seized ones.


So here we have one seized hydraulic tappet. A couple firm whacks against a firm surface, a quick jiggle and pull removes the centre part of the tappet and we now have two pieces
https://images2.imgbox.com/91/14/ASIKN5pO_o.jpg


I assumed that cleaning it as it stood would solve the seized-ness (as some people don't go all the way to remove the smaller section into it's separate parts) but it still wouldn't compress. So no choice but to go ahead and crack open the little tappet. I personally used a small precise flat blade screwdriver to carefully prise off the retaining ring (it simply clips on to the body of the tappet).
https://images2.imgbox.com/e8/cf/Xnr4o4ny_o.jpg


Once carefully removed we now have the outer sleeve, inner sleeve with the ball bearing, spring and retaining clip.
https://images2.imgbox.com/bd/02/VK7ukRE5_o.jpg

Everything seemed ok but there was a bit of gunky oil with slight deposits. The oil was blacker than black though. Gave the bits a good clean allowing them to soak in some meth spirit and a blast of carb cleaner to remove the gunk. After a wipe with a clean cloth and left to dry for a mo, I was left with the bits looking like this
https://images2.imgbox.com/87/b6/XAVdrsfd_o.jpg


So fresh and clean!

Then it was back to re-assembly. Got out some part empty oil, in this case some fully synthetic Mobil 1 SuperSyn stuff and literally put a drop of oil into the outer sleeve. I then put the spring on to the inner sleeve (sits on the bearing assembly) and slotted the bits into each other. The trick here is to only put a drop of oil as too much oil into the sleeve won't allow it to fully compress and therefore will feel seized and/or really stiff.

Once slotted back I put on the retaining ring and firmly pushed down to lock the ring in place. I then put a couple drops of oil into the larger half of the tappet and pushed the smaller bit into it. One fully working tappet all clean and compresses fine. Two cleaned ones together
https://images2.imgbox.com/36/ca/2NhQh7Lz_o.jpg


I then did the other six and thought I'd leave it for now as my fingers were aching . Once I had one row of tappets sorted I put them into a clean container and filler it up with some more oil and will leave them in there until the head is rebuilt.
https://images2.imgbox.com/e4/31/FogaLBK4_o.jpg

Next up is to do the remaining eight. May stick this up in Articles for reference.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

No biggie, just an update for the record.

Managed to have a bit of free time after work while dinner was on the go. Got the remaining eight tappets cleaned, re-assembled and in a container full of oil.
https://images2.imgbox.com/56/40/Hc5qNnrU_o.jpg
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/1161/1002441j.jpg

Also managed to clean up the camshaft nuts and washers as they were filthy too. They used to be black but now look more like this
https://images2.imgbox.com/16/3f/BbHlBFT6_o.jpg
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/7910/1002440bd.jpg

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

It's been another while since the last update lol

I went on holiday for 3 and a half weeks and come back on Friday. Went to work the next day... and Sunday and Monday and today lol Good thing though is that I have 2 weeks off due to a refurb whooo.

This arrived the other day, needs a good clean but it's perfect otherwise.
https://images2.imgbox.com/95/29/dRAxvzih_o.jpg

Need to take the crank to be checked, the block to be cleaned and the head to be checked and/or skimmed.

Plan to do this this week... we'll see how it goes ;)

[nova_niek]

Excellent tappet cleanup how-to! :)

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

Spoke to a couple places yesterday about getting the crank, head and block checked/tested/measured.

Dropped off the bits to them today and should be getting a call in the coming days to see if al is well (fingers crossed).

Deffo know they'll turn round and say the crank needs a re-grind just hope nothing terrible is found. Hate waiting to hear news, always have bad feelings lol

[Benn]

Hope they dont need much doing... Glad to see your still cracking on.

[Southie]

Good progress Tekkypoos, I've not looked at your thread for a while. How long till you think its up and running again then?

Keep up the good work :)

[Nova_Tek]

Hope they dont need much doing... Glad to see your still cracking on.

We'll see... I think it may need a touch of welding on the head (mating face to the block) but that's yet to be confirmed, the crank regrind is a yes, light honing again looks to be needed.

I'll most probably hear from them Monday/Tuesday as I wanted them to call up and give me a price and what's needed. I never tell people to 'just do it' as you may as well give them a blank cheque lol

I'm still cracking on :)


Good progress Tekkypoos, I've not looked at your thread for a while. How long till you think its up and running again then?

Keep up the good work :)

Updates have decreased somewhat lately but I'm still working on it when I have time. Everytime I give an estimate it goes out the window, so I'm not going to guess. Just take things as they come. Although, I don't see it taking too much time. Would be nice to have it done for my birthday (November).

I'd like to take it for a road trip around Europe next summer, kinda an ambition of mine for the Nova. Time will tell.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


Todays task was to clean what I could... I started with this
https://images2.imgbox.com/c8/8a/tJ4kjyfi_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/0e/ea/hBwei5Gd_o.jpg




It doesn't look 'bad' but it was shockingly dirty. Took a whole loads of detergent, a couple scouring pads and lots of water to get half the mess off. Once off a good going over with 400 wet and dry got it to this stage:
https://images2.imgbox.com/21/c6/Egj0Pwkh_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/9a/99/BbdIgaSV_o.jpg




Luckily, I found enough etch primer to be able to give the bare metal areas a decent coat... so that was up next. A bit tricky spraying as there were really heavy winds about. I left it to dry for a few hours:
https://images2.imgbox.com/51/e2/KHnvqX6V_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/5e/38/Qaz5PnGc_o.jpg




When dry, a good going over was needed with 1200 wet and dry (I'd normally use 800 but as there was none left 1200 was the next best). A good while later I got it to the paint stage.
https://images2.imgbox.com/0d/ed/ppB82Z8n_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/36/9d/cWpHAORW_o.jpg

At this point I was really contemplating whether to paint or not as it was still really blustery and the backing plate would just spin and bounce in the wind. I thought 'what the hell' and gave it as many coats of satin black possible with the amount of paint left in the can. Considering the conditions, it came out like this:
https://images2.imgbox.com/47/0b/RbHSr7I1_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/ca/27/3lEroO6B_o.jpg



Not bad eh?


Let it dry slightly and then decided to give the back half of the plate a coat of oil/fuel resistant lacquer. The front face didn't need it as it would be protected by the cambelt cover.
https://images2.imgbox.com/2c/fa/HkG9f0IM_o.jpg



Let that properly dry in the garage overnight. Should come out a treat tomorrow. If the dry weather holds out, more cleaning tomorrow is on the agenda.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


After leaving the cambelt back plate in the garage overnight, the lacquer hardened nicely and looks tons better.
Next up was the oil pump. I know that there is a bit of debate over the oil pump normally whether to change it completely for a zLET pump with modified pick up pipe, or to go for SBD gears in standard cLET housing etc. Then again some people swear by just giving the thing a good clean making sure the gears aren't shagged.


Heard of relief valves getting stuck open... what would the causes be and is there anyway to tell if the valve is past it on inspection?
I'm currently going for the later option if the gears are not worn. So my first task was to clean the sh*t out of it as it looked like this
https://images2.imgbox.com/95/4f/HBahflYw_o.jpg


The usual load of elbow grease, carb cleaner/degreaser, tooth brush etc got it to this point (needs a bit more cleaning but I ran out of degreaser)
https://images2.imgbox.com/56/44/pAkdbHHC_o.jpg


Will continue cleaning it up tomorrow once I get some more degreaser. Once totally cleaned it'll get a coat of aluminium paint to match the rest of the engine bits. I cracked open the backing plate to check out the gears
https://images2.imgbox.com/bb/bc/EIoWWw7j_o.jpg



https://images2.imgbox.com/ee/89/A6DpALBW_o.jpg

Looks like it had fresh oil before it went off the road. Need to go over it with a feeler blade but it looks fine with the naked eye. If it does prove to be perfectly fine, I'll be renewing the seal and giving everything a good flush and clean before it goes back on as you can feel dirt particles when turning the pump by hand.



No news for the chaps at the engine shop.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


After picking up some more cleaning products, I continued where I left off with the oil pump. I wasn't ecstatic with the outcome of the clean up I did yesterday as there was still a bit more filth in places. As I picked up some carb cleaner and Swarfega Jizer (thought it said Jizzer lol ) I thought I'd give the Jizer a go. Gotta say that it does shift crap real nicely. Very impressed... it is now on my list of useful products.

https://images2.imgbox.com/af/2f/eNZ1AlUk_o.jpg


Here's the outcome
https://images2.imgbox.com/5f/8a/VqePNKF3_o.jpg



I then cracked open the cover plate again to expose the gears for a clean up
https://images2.imgbox.com/3f/fe/ayJLwRTZ_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/a8/7b/BJgz2Coq_o.jpg

A good going over with plenty of carb cleaner got all the bits looking like this
https://images2.imgbox.com/c3/e4/JbGcW3ol_o.jpg


Then came the fun bit of masking up bits so I could give the pump a lick of paint
https://images2.imgbox.com/79/41/LUehPAif_o.jpg



https://images2.imgbox.com/9f/8d/hIMNYB9G_o.jpg

First gave the back side a few coats...
https://images2.imgbox.com/9f/76/DABHG34q_o.jpg


Let it become touch dry, then did the front...
https://images2.imgbox.com/39/06/07txMYOQ_o.jpg


Re-assembled the pump internals
https://images2.imgbox.com/34/20/rIbPCmNx_o.jpg


Poured a few drops of clean, fresh oil and gave it a few turns by hand. Much better as there was no feeling of hearing dirt getting crushed when turning over like it did before. Closed up the back plate, fetched the oil pressure sender from the garage and fitted that also. End Result
https://images2.imgbox.com/ae/dc/TK1QJOIW_o.jpg


I'll be most likely changing the relief valve as that had some uneven wear by the looks of it. SBD do the Relief valve kit with Nylon valve, spring, nut and washer for £49.95. The Steel inner gear is £130. In terms of parts that need an inspection, clean, rebuild... I think that was the last of them. Just a case of hearing from the engine shop about what sized bearings are needed after the reground and ordering bits to put the LET back together.

[Nova_Tek]

oops double postage!

[Nova_Tek]

odd.. only clicked post once but it gave me two identical posts!

[GRANT !!!]

love the work you doing pal, hope to see at the show's next year?

[nova_niek]

UPDATE I'll be most likely changing the relief valve as that had some uneven wear by the looks of it. SBD do the Relief valve kit with Nylon valve, spring, nut and washer for £49.95. The Steel inner gear is £130.

Sound idea Tek.

After throwing a rod whilst going round Silverstone (Trax, back in 2000) I went the same route with my relief valve. In my case, the suspected cause of death was a stuck relief valve, but I never really found out. All I could find was a spun big end bearing shell and lots of debris. Anyway, as I was spending money on the valve kit I decided to get the steel oil pump gears as well. And never looked back. If you have £130 burning a hole in your pocket, get the gears as well. Peace of mind and all that.

Cheers,
Niek

[Nova_Tek]

love the work you doing pal, hope to see at the show's next year?

Thanks matey :thumb:


Sound idea Tek.

After throwing a rod whilst going round Silverstone (Trax, back in 2000) I went the same route with my relief valve. In my case, the suspected cause of death was a stuck relief valve, but I never really found out. All I could find was a spun big end bearing shell and lots of debris. Anyway, as I was spending money on the valve kit I decided to get the steel oil pump gears as well. And never looked back. If you have £130 burning a hole in your pocket, get the gears as well. Peace of mind and all that.

Cheers,
Niek

The relief valve has deffo concerned me a little Niek, some scoring generally but more so a shiny spot on one side where there looks to be more friction. £50 is no real big deal price wise so worth doing. The gears look ok with even wear. Couldn't find exact wear tolerances to measure with a feeler blade but all teeth seemed to have even wear. Was a bit surprised as to how many few parts there are to an oil pump lol two gears and that's about it :)

The steel gear would be a nice addition but I'd need to find a £130 notes from somewhere.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


Got a few bits today...


I wasn't going to get this particular part originally as I didn't quite plan going all out and doing a rebuild but seeing as the engine was in the shop getting bits done to it I decided to

TX Autosport Magnetic sump plug (pretty strong magnet)
https://images2.imgbox.com/a5/e7/rfFBMtj5_o.jpg


Also got this a bit later on in the day
https://images2.imgbox.com/94/aa/VzgwWKip_o.jpg


Mocal Universal Oil Cooler kit:
Oil filter sandwich plate M18
Sandwich plate seals
2x 1/2bsp sandwich plate hose fitting
2m of 1/2inch ID high temp/high pressure oil hose
2x 1/2bsp straight union
2x 1/2bsp 90degree union
4x hose clips
Oil cooler mounting brackets and all the nuts/bolts etc


Only problem I seem to be having is finding out what size the inlet/outlet is on the cooler itself. I opted for the smaller 1/2bsp fittings as there was a 5/8bsp kit available also, but the cooler seems to have smaller fitting on them
I should be getting the engine back on Thursday. It would've had a crank reground (.25), block cleaned, bores honed, head skim, pressure tested and 8 new valve guides (of those 8 some were cracked and some were in half). Of course pics will be put up when I get them.

[Nova_Tek]

oops double postage!

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


Day off so I headed to the engine shop in the morning to pick up the block, head and crank. All was well, when I noticed that he forgot to remove a snapped bolt from the head. Previous owner must've snapped an inlet stud, tried to get it out but messed it right up! It will be removed and then have a new insert fitted. Will be picking the head up when I'm next off.


In the end the following was done:
- Block flushed
- Honed bores
- Crank re-ground .25 and polished
- Tad bit of weld needed where a waterway had corroded on head
- Head skimmed
- New valve guides
- New valve stems
- Re-lapped valves
- Vacuum tested after valves refitted
- Pistons measured


Got the bits home and decided, as the weather was good, to prepare and paint the block.


First up, the crank in it's new condition
https://images2.imgbox.com/b1/6a/6fM5A2uu_o.jpg

And the block
https://images2.imgbox.com/36/aa/6Ja6Csvv_o.jpg



https://images2.imgbox.com/64/50/y287MoiA_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/11/69/fjduB5LO_o.jpg

All clean on the underside and inside

https://images2.imgbox.com/ce/16/4WSiVzrh_o.jpg

I then set off removing the last bits of old red paint on the block. Had no choice but to use a small wire brush and a flat blade screw driver to chisel off the paint. It took absolute ages but I was finally happy with it. Gave it a cleaning with degreaser (Jizer), wiped it dry and masked places that didn't need painting.

Front of the block
https://images2.imgbox.com/e1/ff/PENmvIoS_o.jpg

The back was just as clean. Now it was time for paint... gave it about 3-4 coats of paint and let it dry
https://images2.imgbox.com/d0/ce/9UAlc1tZ_o.jpg


As it became touch dry, I thought 'now's the chance to weigh the block and see how heavy it is'. Got out the scales and put it on there. I got 35.4 KG's the first go. 'This can't be right' I thought, 'feels heavier than that'. Moved the scales to another flat surface and tried again... 35.4 KG's. So there we have it, unless my scales are totally out, the block weighs that much!

Block is now in the garage to fully dry over night.

Need to start ordering internals.

[Iain]

Magnetic sump plug is defo a winner

Nice work on the engine internals, let the rebuild commence now! Fun fun fun

Cooler sandwich plate... Don't you want one with a thermostat built in? Or are you going to get an external thermostat?

[Nova_Tek]

Yep, can't go wrong for £12

I'll be getting an external stat, think it's best that way. But I'm sure something is missing, as there is no where for the oil filter thread adapter to screw on to (or am I being a tard?)

The real fun begins now :)

[Rich]

it goes through the sandwich plate and screws into the oil pump.

Im selling that kit with the oil cooler off my project lol

[Nova_Tek]

Ok so the big double ended bolt (male/female) seen below next to the sandwich plate
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/2944/1002741t.jpg

fits through the sandwich plate and screws into the thread seen here in the picture of the pump right?
http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/4301/1002730w.jpg

So there needs to be a male attachment to screw into the female part of the adaptor as the oil filter is female. (Apologies in advanced if I'm missing the point, it's been a long day, I've eaten too much dinner and feel sleepy lol)

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


Another day off (why do days off go by so quickly?), weather was a bit rubbish but it was dry for a good few hours giving me the chance to finish off what I was doing the other day. I picked up the head from the engine shop on Friday but was too busy over the weekend to post up any updates. So here it is with, as I mentioned before, skimmed, valves lapped, new valve guides, new stem seals, pressure and vacuum tested.

https://images2.imgbox.com/56/f0/AbBv9F9H_o.jpg

Close up of where it was welded (water way), didn't need much but it did need it
https://images2.imgbox.com/03/fb/wPAyCIyU_o.jpg



Then came the real fun bit of masking up the head... took, what felt like, hours to do.
https://images2.imgbox.com/d2/ab/KmAs8eDW_o.jpg


I then painted it same colour as the block, finished 3/4 of a can and let it dry.
https://images2.imgbox.com/2a/90/bM6reO0U_o.jpg

As it was drying I thought I'd quickly clean up the air filter to turbo hose. For those that forgot what it looked like
https://images2.imgbox.com/95/29/dRAxvzih_o.jpg



After a scrub and a good wipe
https://images2.imgbox.com/78/4b/MeutNoaG_o.jpg


Much better!


By the time I got that sorted the head was dry enough to handle. Took off all the masking... It was now a good chance to weigh the head to see how heavy it was, seeing as I weighed the block............................................. ...................... outcome was 14.6 KG. considering it has the valves, valve springs, stem seals, inlet/exhaust studs. I then thought 'hmmmmmm'... so I got out the crank and weighed that too. Outcome of that was 17.2KG (reground crank .25). So far then, a bare block, crank and head weigh 67.2 KG's.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


I got given a number of a local powder coater in the area by the chaps at the bodyshop, and funnily enough the same place was recommended by my mate, so I called them up and took the cam cover to them. After a little chat and looking at colour samples, I decided to go a matt black as it will suit the colour scheme on the bay. That should be ready by early next week.


Dunno about everyone else but down here in London it feels like summer again! 27 degrees and sunny. Ended up going through boxes of engine bits and came across the alternator brackets looking sorry.
https://images2.imgbox.com/30/ef/sfOc2I2q_o.jpg



Gave them the usual clean...

https://images2.imgbox.com/2c/75/kU6G336e_o.jpg

Then a few coats of the usual colour paint...
https://images2.imgbox.com/65/93/Rirj2xel_o.jpg



and the bottom bracket. This was already silver when it came with the engine but it had flaked and needed a re-coat
https://images2.imgbox.com/b1/e1/DRVfdATK_o.jpg

[josh-sri]

Really enjoy reading this thread mate, alot of effort and work going into it. Abit at a time but im sure it will all pay off in the end, keep the progress and pics coming!

[Nova_Tek]

Thanks Josh. Before I started the project I never would have thought it would take this long, but that's life. I'd much rather get things done a bit at a time just to make sure thigns get done well. Not great for the thread, but in the end when all these little bits get put together it'll then show how worth while it was doing it.

:thumb:

[josh-sri]

Does anybodys project ever meet its deadline?? Haha! I agree, you might aswell get it right the first time and enjoy it, plus with every part cleaned and painted before it goes back on its going to make it a damn sight easier to work on and maintain.

[Nova_Tek]

Still one thing I'm dreading doing/seeing is the engine bay in a years time looking grimey. Hopefully doing all that I'm doing now will minimise it :)

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

Work has taken over as I'm covering two collegues that aren't well so haven't been able to do anything in the past week. However today I come acorss something that should come in real handy...
https://images2.imgbox.com/55/bb/hAQ5kon1_o.jpg
http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/5236/1002761q.jpg

Comes with these included as well as a battery charger, battery, bits and a 3 year warranty lol
https://images2.imgbox.com/5b/47/oG8m365G_o.jpg
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/7889/1002762w.jpg

Not bad for £19.99!

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

Finally a day off after working 8 straight days :( Didn't get much done today but did go an pick up my rocker cover form the powder coaters

https://images2.imgbox.com/ea/56/wV5kNXeQ_o.jpg
http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/7526/1002765u.jpg

A couple areas weren't perfect but that was down to the way the rocker cover was cast. Still looks miles better than before in it's original condition.
Still need to order internals... really haven't had time due to work.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

Inundated with work, again covering other colleagues and I'm absolutely fu*king knackered! And to top it off I'm getting a head cold so I feel shi*ty.

Haven't done anything this week, have a day off tomorrow so as long as I feel ok I might make a start on cleaning up the pistons... great excuse to use the little Dremmel type tool I got recently. I did however get this the other day

http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/1530/0000167o.jpg

£11 for 4L - I'd say that's a good price seeing as Vaux charge £16 on trade for 5L of GM 5 year anti-freeze/coolant.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

The Nova, for the time being, has been put on the back burner so to speak. Work is hectic with me covering quite a few shifts and the Cav project has taken priority as it's just about done. Once the Cav is sorted then there will be quite a bit of garage space that will be freed up allowing me to do more work on it.

I've still been trying to gather parts for it and have managed to get this part ticked off the 'want' list
https://images2.imgbox.com/83/a7/Y9QLDIo4_o.jpg
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/2497/1002788s.jpg

It's in great condition, bordering mint! Thought I'd never find one that's not been cut or isn't scratched up etc.

Waiting for payday to arrive so I can start getting internals.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

Wow! Last update was 2 months ago... where the hell does time go? I've spent any recent days off sorting out the Cavalier and with not much time or cash available, I haven't concentrated much on the Nova.

On Tuesday though I called up Autovaux and after a few minutes I had ordered some internals. As I ordered a bit late Tuesday afternoon, I was told they'd be with me Thursday... they didn't arrive!

Come home from work today and they still weren't here. As I was digging into dinner at 8pm I heard the door go and someone say "there's an odd man on our drive that's walking around the cars!!!" Rushed outside to see some guy going round to the side of the garage... it was the courier!

Ripped open the long box to find some goodies

Headbolts
https://images2.imgbox.com/33/69/ZAKw0Jmy_o.jpg


Gaskets and seals from the head set
https://images2.imgbox.com/6c/1c/oYbmVMem_o.jpg

Manifold gaskets
https://images2.imgbox.com/fd/c7/NybL2g9c_o.jpg

Head gasket
https://images2.imgbox.com/6d/53/UxtGqpa6_o.jpg

4x piston ring set with the rings individually packaged mmm
https://images2.imgbox.com/bb/33/a9zdd4mw_o.jpg

Bearings
https://images2.imgbox.com/b6/13/a7guNbqj_o.jpg

Main bearings
https://images2.imgbox.com/8a/bb/34e50XAf_o.jpg


All in all £180 spent including delivery.


Now comes the question I ask myself... should I:
a) just undertake the vast majority of it myself and risk it taking another x amount of months,
or
b) speak to a couple people I know and trust (actual mechanics) who could probably get it sorted in a week, therefore allowing me to drive and enjoy the Nova much sooner but inevitably spend a bit more money?

[Southie]

At last an update, I thought you'd sent this off to cash4gold lol

Glad your still keeping going slowly but surely though, should be a cracker once completed ;)

[Nova_Tek]

I didn't even realise that it had been 2 months since the last update lol

Won't give up... I have to finish it!

[bakerznova]

cant beat new parts
your going to be busy fitting all the new parts
rocker cover looks good also matey
keep at it

[farmertom]

this is epic mr tek just read through the whole thread good read

[Nova_Tek]

Cheers man... new parts are always good.

I'm leaning towards getting someone to rebuild the engine with me there of course. Got a couple good pro mechanic mates. Time is of a premium at the moment and with the way things are going at this rate it wont be finished by Feb if I decide to do everything.

[Nova_Tek]

this is epic mr tek just read through the whole thread good read

Thanks for reading through fella :thumb:

[bakerznova]

Cheers man... new parts are always good.

I'm leaning towards getting someone to rebuild the engine with me there of course. Got a couple good pro mechanic mates. Time is of a premium at the moment and with the way things are going at this rate it wont be finished by Feb if I decide to do everything.

ohh fair enough mate
im hoping for mine to be done around jan-feb so i can get it taxed mot'd and back out on the road :thumb:

[Nova_Tek]

Same here, it would be a great start and a motivation for me to have it ready for use in the new year, preferably Jan. Had enough of using Buses to get to work and we could really use the space that the parts have taken up too lol

I've done all of the hard, tedious and important refurb, painting/cleaning jobs so it's just a case of putting it back in. This I'd want done fairly swiftly but properly. Work is full on and I can't see it giving me much free time. The wife is bugging me to get it done asap too, which is another factor lol

[bakerznova]

Same here, it would be a great start and a motivation for me to have it ready for use in the new year, preferably Jan. Had enough of using Buses to get to work and we could really use the space that the parts have taken up too lol

I've done all of the hard, tedious and important refurb, painting/cleaning jobs so it's just a case of putting it back in. This I'd want done fairly swiftly but properly. Work is full on and I can't see it giving me much free time. The wife is bugging me to get it done asap too, which is another factor lol

you'll get there matey :thumb:
i get my motivation at looking at other peoples project threads on here
and it just makes me wanna get my done and back on the road
i miss driving it tbh :(

[Nova_Tek]

I last drove the Nova back in 2008 so next year it'll be 4 years. The project started early 2010 so it'll hit 2 years in the next couple months. I'd really like to get it done before it hits the 2nd year. I have plenty of motivation but not the time. There was a time where I had plenty of time but no money lol

[Benn]

4 years? Christ.

[pie]

looking good buddy

[Nova_Tek]

Cheers homes!

[Nova_Tek]

4 years? Christ.

You seem surprised Benn.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

A day off for once... After having a well deserved sleep/lay in (makes a change from getting up at 7 pretty much everyday) I though I'd get cracking with something. Only real thing left to sort out was the pistons. They look like utter sh*t!

I made a start on piston one a few weeks back but never finished it off, so I thought today was a good time to do it.

To refresh your memory... this is how it came out the block
https://images2.imgbox.com/c6/80/jtyCqNPG_o.jpg
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/6224/1002417t.jpg

After some hard graft and elbow grease, a soaking in Redex, brillo pad, wire brush on a Dremmel (about an hours worth of messing about) it came out like this
https://images2.imgbox.com/3f/92/LEjhIB5U_o.jpg
http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/696/1003034s.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/02/5f/jG3oW0Ig_o.jpg

1 down 3 to go :cry:

Then popped to Halfords to get some bits. Asked the person at the arts counter for some BCR8ES NGK plugs... didn't have any :( Managed to get the part numbers for the HT leads. One set was Halfords own HT leads and the other Bosch. Difference in price £14. Took them out of the box to compare. I spent absolute ages in seeing what the difference was and couldn't tell. They looked pretty much identical. In the end I opted for the Halfords stuff at £34.99. Got to the checkout and gave the trusty trade card and BAM £18.49 lol
https://images2.imgbox.com/75/49/0NPqp475_o.jpg
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/9071/1003036.jpg

An absolute bargain compared to the £30 odd quid Vauxhall want for each lead. Will pop to my other local Halfords to see if I can buy then plugs.

[Benn]

Erm...

http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/520/1003034y.jpg

The two top cut out looks damage.. the right hand one looks funked.

[Nova_Tek]

Yes I know but they were inspected by the engineering place that d'd the block and head and although they've had some contact with valves in the past, they're fine to use.

[brucer]

keep on going tek.

if i was you id clean the piston up a bit just to get rid of any edges.

[Nova_Tek]

Way ahead of you Bruce mate. I got out the dremmel and cleaned a slight lip around the outer part of the piston face and it's now smooth (done after this pic was taken). I'll be checking them all to see if there is anything that protudes from the piston face and take it off to be extra safe. Seeing as the guy at the engine place said they're fine to use then I've got not doubts.

[Edd]

Maybe just me dude but I wouldnt be using pistons with that damage

[Andy]

No way would i use that piston,no,no no.
Someone's bound to have a set of 3 lying about to buy cheap.

[Nova_Tek]

Well they were being used before. It's obviously had contact with valves but all the valves in the head were fine so they were changed with the pistons still being used. All 4 have similar marks on them.

[Andy]

Did you see it run or drive it??

[Balley]

The piston will be fine, by the looks of the photo it looks worse than it is..

[Edd]

It MAY run fine, personally I wouldnt take the risk

You'll be kicking yourself if its goes wrong after the rebuild, end up costing you loads extra as well

[Nova_Tek]

Did you see it run or drive it??

No but spoke with the chap who was selling it and it was a running engine until he took it off the road to sort his shell out but then gave up on the build. Apart from the marks on the pistons everything else was spotless, no head damage, valves fine the whole shebang. So it's quite clear that the engine was being used.

I said the exact same thing to my mate when we took the pistons out 'they're fu*ked!' He said he couldn't see any reason not to use them but the engineers would be able to confirm that (place I took it to are his mates/works with them all the time so he isn't gonna bull**** me).


The piston will be fine, by the looks of the photo it looks worse than it is..

You are right, they look worse in the photo but not as bad in the flesh. When the lad who's gonna rebuild it sees it I guess he'll deffo confirm if they'll be ok. He's rebuilt countless LET's and even my mates one recently.

Still gonna clean em up though lol

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

Popped to another Halfords branch today and found the set of plugs I was after - NGK BCR8ES - Price £13.49.
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/8339/1003040.jpg
At the checkout handed over the trade card and BAM £4.95 lmao. They are currently gapped at 0.7mm so will need to be adjusted to 0.6mm.
https://images2.imgbox.com/04/24/55zevbrR_o.jpg

And to help me do that are these
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/1586/1003037v.jpg

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/4790/1003039h.jpghttps://images2.imgbox.com/8c/0d/GmVO2pi3_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/36/46/t55iRpGc_o.jpg

Not bad for £2.50 inc. p&p

Cleaned up piston 4 as well.

Will soon be having a chat with my mate to organise when I can drop the engine off to get it built back up.

[Nova_Tek]

UPADTE

Nothing outstanding but I gont one of my xmas presents turn up today (better late than never lol )

Can you guess what it is yet?
https://images2.imgbox.com/c9/ef/rKp14NcH_o.jpg
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/2219/1003042ba.jpg

Thanks to my bro I now have a pipercross foam filter to fit the LET. Happy with it as the colour scheme will go well with the bay and I've read good reviews. Should do well as long as I can isolate it away from the heat.

Also gapped my plugs last night and only have 1 piston left to clean... yay!

Off tomorrow to visit local motorfactors for some cluth parts :)

[Nova_Tek]

UPADTE


Got a few bits that I needed.


Firstly a metal plug cover which I got off W88rdy (cheers mate ) I've got a plastic one but haven't found anyone local that can plate plastic. So a metal one will do the trick.
https://images2.imgbox.com/b4/0d/yqHCVxbM_o.jpg



I'll be putting the plastic one will be up for sale


I then had a bit of a brainwave... to keep things simple I've decided to mount the pump and filter using smaller lightweight motorsport type brackets. I had a quick look on ebay and found a couple bits that were perfect. Ordered the fuel pump bracket yesterday at 3:30pm and it arrived today at 9am... lovely!



Black alu bracket with two rubber absorbers - one for smaller pumps and one for larger. Fits like a glove with the Bosch pump
https://images2.imgbox.com/b8/9e/HCepvxgV_o.jpg


Also had a chat with my mate who helped me strip the LET. He spoke with his mate who helped him strip and rebuild his LET in his Cally DTM. Gave me a very good mates rates labour price to put the LET back together. Will be dropping the LET off to him in the coming week or so to get it built up.


Still waiting for the fuel filter bracket which is a simplified version of the above, a mountable stainless steel bracket to arrive. Will probably also be buying a second turbo as my mate sold his DTM recently but had a spare turbo which he fully rebuilt, shaft, seals, turbines - you name it he changed it. He'll give it to me just to cover parts costs. Need to arrange a day to take all the metal bits to the platers too. Time to get them sorted too!

[Nova_Tek]

Got this in the post yesterday... a new bracket to hold the fuel filter.
https://images2.imgbox.com/73/49/gb7eicVy_o.jpg
http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/7181/1003046o.jpg

Was planning to arrange to take the engine down to my mates mate but a good friend/colleague at work had just lost his dad so I'm covering shifts at the mo. When things get back to normal I'll be taking the weekend/few days off to drop it down to him.

'tis all for now.

[brucer]

liking the fuel filter bracket and pump mount, you having the filter in the original place?

btw, what is it you do for a job? your always working! lol

[Nova_Tek]

Yeah having it in the same/original place but thought I'd simplfy the mount. Less parts easiler to remove etc.

I work for a well known mobile operator sales and tech. We have a team of 7 normally but currently due to numerous problems we have 3 people working at any one time. A few month back we had a team of 5 and only two of us were able to work at any one time. Hence, we doing mega overtime to cover shifts.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


I'm currently getting final bits and pieces so these come through today.


Aluminium anodised clamp for the pump dampener




8 Mikalor clamps for the intercooler hoses/pipes
https://images2.imgbox.com/16/ab/TSNVOHrI_o.jpg


SBD Nylon relief valve kit
https://images2.imgbox.com/bf/e2/MwfVdFIU_o.jpg


Instructions say to use a washer on the valve side and depending on the pressure you get a washer on the bolt side. IIRC the standard valve has no washers. Anyone bothered to use it?




Some powder coat dissolver - £23 for 1 litre
https://images2.imgbox.com/b9/0e/6g2BpMSn_o.jpg


After finding something as suitable as possible to let the spark plug cover soak in the dissolver, I left it to soak for an hour before giving it a light going over with a medium stiff wire brush to get into the nooks and crannies.


Here's how it looked before
https://images2.imgbox.com/07/50/ADflcySZ_o.jpg


And after
https://images2.imgbox.com/a2/bb/Uoql6vsD_o.jpg


Proper good stuff this dissolver. It's totally reusable as long as you don't contaminate the solution with water or grease. Only problem was that the container I found which was suitable in size for the cover which wouldn't melt was a foil baking tray. I eventually managed to put a hole through it so the half litre of solution I poured out.


Gave it a rinse with cold water. Just need to go over a few small areas and the side sections as they didn't fully submerge in solution and have a bit of paint on them still. Miles faster than nitromors and a wire brush and less damaging too.


Also need to try source a new GM outer gear for the oil pump. After measuring the gear tolerances it looks like the outer gear is at it's limit of wear. I just think the SBD stuff is just way over priced.


As there was a delay in stripping the paint off the plug cover, I wasn't able to take down the bits that I wanted to get plated. I'll have to plan this for sometime next week.


Until then...

[Southie]

Yikes that looks good stuff, should be for the money..would nitromos do the same?

[Nova_Tek]

Nitromors would probably need to be applied, left for a while, re-applied and left again and possibly a third application to work under into layers. It would take much longer. I hardly used the little brush, a rinse in water was fine.

[scott.parker]

Very Surprised how thats stripped that off mate!

[Nova_Tek]

Strong stuff mate, after about 10 mins you can run your finger on it and it'll start removing it. Good stuff but it'll take the whole litre to get it off. Bit pricey but was worth it. Would be great for alloys for a refurb but you'd need gallons of the stuff. I'd say it's as good as sand blasting but 0 abrasive.

[scott.parker]

Ahhhhh, the guy who did my MO's (shot blasted them) had this Acid that ate off any left over bits, you brush it on leave for 30 secs then wipe off, east into the alloys much long then 30 secs! lol

[Nova_Tek]

This stuff don't eat metal but does paint and most plastics. I'd like to get a hold of that acid stuff that would be the ultimate paint stripper. Had enough using elbow grease to remove paint.

[scott.parker]

You could use it longer on steel, just not alloy!, check the Internet, you must be able to get hold of it mate.

[Nova_Tek]

Know what it's called?

[scott.parker]

No, i'll try find out though.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

Continued from where I left off... the plug cover was almost fully stripped but there were some hard to reach areas. Left it in some more dissolver solution to get accessible areas stripped and then did the final areas by hand. Areas such as lettering, corners, and anywhere else the solution didn't submerge. I attacked those bits with some Nitromors, wire brush and sanding blocks. After witnessing how quick the dissolver was, Nitromors felt like it took absolute ages to do it's work.

After a good 2 hours or so for those small areas and a good going over with medium grit wet and dry I got the spark plug cover to this stage
https://images2.imgbox.com/43/83/BvVuNZ55_o.jpg
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/9840/1003057.jpg

I then had a chat with the chap that is going to plate things and I should be meeting up on Thursday some time to get things handed over. I then whet to make sure I had all the bits put aside for plating.

All these will be done
https://images2.imgbox.com/29/3b/7EpkzQZF_o.jpg
http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/6492/1003058j.jpg

There are in fact 3-4 more bits that aren't shown but this is pretty much the lot. I've added a few more little bits 'n pieces so no doubt the quote will go up a tad.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

Popped to the chap a bit earlier to discuss things in detail and to hand all the bits to him for plating. A real nice guy who happens to like cars and seems to know his stuff inside out when it comes to plating. When we discussed what needed doing the parts count was bewteen 90-100 for £75-£80. After finding more things that needed to be plated and a few bits that I ordered in the last week the count literally doubled to 200 lol In total including the spark plug cover is £200. Which is a very good price - it is a fiddly task as he'll need to disassemble all the jubilee clips including screw in order to plate them properly. Plus the plug cover being a composite metal it may take a dip in different metals before gold will plate to it right.

The guy showed me his iPhone which he plated too... looked impressive.

Should get the bits next week... cannot wait!

Also fitted the SBD Nylon relief valve to the oil pump... no pics though.

[Nova Baz]

any update's

[Nova_Tek]

Not as yet fella... waiting for the plater to get back to me. It's taking longer than usual due to some of the parts being corroded. It don't bother me as it means he is doing a proper job.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


Due to the weather being nice yesterday it got me in the mood to do some stuff. In this case, some painting.


Had a look around the bay and saw the brake pedal blanking cover looking shabby (left side of the bay). I still wonder why they have that cover there on the Nova's. Why would there even be a cut out in the firewall if the brake servo was always going to be on the passenger side. The location of that cover is perfect for a servo to sit there. Was it just a case of no room to have it there or is there another reason I'm unaware of? Odd... but needed taking off and painting anyway


Rubbed it down and gave it a good clean
https://images2.imgbox.com/cb/c1/2Thry30Z_o.jpg


Then gave it many coats of enamel black paint for a really durable finish
https://images2.imgbox.com/63/97/yaBOTNhW_o.jpg


As it dried I sorted out some bits for the Cavalier.


I also got these bits in the post this week




Early toothed crank pulley with an intact clip
https://images2.imgbox.com/b5/00/6tSbFZO0_o.jpg


A set of slightly used SBD pump gears (any ideas what the little triangle is on the larger gear?)
https://images2.imgbox.com/3a/98/nmEpBBaB_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/92/8e/nCYP2bzR_o.jpg


A pair of 1/2bspt to 3/8bsp reducers for my oil cooler. Searched high and low for these and managed to find the correct size and only cost a few quid woohoo!
https://images2.imgbox.com/5f/e6/K0zYp5a9_o.jpg


After leaving the blanking plate in the garage overnight, here's how it looked
https://images2.imgbox.com/5a/3a/pI4K8rqQ_o.jpg

[brucer]

good work.

are you painting the bay/bits in the bay?

[Nova_Tek]

The bay isn't how you seen it. it was painted/cleaned I just haven't had any pics taken of it.

[Iain]

I think the markings on the large oil pump gear is for fitting direction? Isn't there a circle on the other side or something? Haynes tells you which faces outwards

How do you know they're SBD ones, they don't look any different to me

[Nova_Tek]

Yes there is a dot on the otherside which is the side which faces you but the old gear had a square mark on the underside and these new ones have a triangle. The chap sold me his pump which had SBD internals including relief valve. He had swapped his oil pump for a modded zLET. He is a MIG member for a while so there were no reasons to doubt him. The gears are tighter anyway my gears were boardering worn. He sold me the lot for a very good price so it was worth it.

[AndrewJenkins]

any news on the plating?

[Nova_Tek]

Yeah in fact... Got a text today saying it should be ready Wednesday ish.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


Ordered a couple bits from Vauxhall which arrived today


Bonnet bumpers
https://images2.imgbox.com/0c/4f/IjLrmDxl_o.jpg


One of mine has started to perish. I've also ordered the rubber bumpers that fix into the front wings which the bonnet rests on when shut.


10 new fly wheel bolts (you only need 8 but they are sold in packs of 5... go figure)
https://images2.imgbox.com/aa/7c/UpLa6v8m_o.jpg


Also got a pair of brand new inner CV's utilising the £5 off PayPal voucher


Will be calling the plater to see if my bits are ready as he said they should be done by tomorrow.

[pie]

looking good tek :)

[Nova_Tek]

Cheers Pie

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


Weather was nice so I thought I'd do some more improving.


Not many things left to actually make 'better' but this came to my attention so I decided to spruce it up to match the rest of the car.


Petrol cap started off like this after a bit of cleaning and some wet n dry treatment
https://images2.imgbox.com/20/7a/P8ovjS4W_o.jpg


Then gave it a few coats of plastic primer
https://images2.imgbox.com/90/2e/ogJVwiCB_o.jpg


Rubbed it down after letting it dry but for some reason a section of it didn't dry properly and kinda messed up whilst flatting it. So I had to re do that stage and decided to leave it overnight somewhere warm to properly harden.


I then got a call from the plater guy and he had said that my stuff was ready.


Just come back from picking the stuff up and I'm happy with the results. Some of the non-new stuff couldn't be plated due to the type of metal it was or it was past it's best and had too much corrosion for the plating to work properly. He did his best on those bits that were ok to plate.


All the new stuff plated well with no problems. The only challenges he is facing is the spark plug cover and oil cap. Both are made of a combination of a few types of metals [alloy] and don't always conduct uniformly, so the plating will happen well in areas and not too well in others. The spark plug cover also has stained in a couple areas where the corrosion had started so they need to be plated in a few base metal first in order for them to come out as best as poss. He's kept them to try some more techniques to see what holds the best in order to plate them but seeing as they will be the centre piece they have too look good.

[scott.parker]

Try get some pics with them under a light, as from them pics they just look electro plated, not gold plated.

But as long as your happy dude, crack on..

[brainsnova]

Using a flash never helps

[Benn]

As Scott said, that arn't gold plated dude, just look dipped and kinda anodized..

[Nova_Tek]

It's the light chaps. Very difficult to get the colour to come through in pictures the flash just takes it away. I'll try see what it looks like in natural light. The pictures do not do it justice.

[Mazz]

Nice bolts, again..

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


Here's the outcome of the fuel cap I painted the other day. I haven't flatted it just yet as the rattle can lacquer takes a week or so to go properly hard (excuse the bad pic)
https://images2.imgbox.com/46/2d/FysG0uDs_o.jpg


I have set myself some odd jobs to get done this week as I'm owed extra time off due to taking on more hours. I'm hoping to get these odd jobs sorted so that they are out the way and will allow me to concentrate on the important stuff.


On today's to-do list was the fuel tank. I knew there was a split/missing section of breather hose, the smaller 4mm ID hose but another reason was to inspect and make sure the floor was cushty and for the tank to get some lovin'.


Up went the back end on the drive-on ramps and under I went. I unhooked the handbrake cable from the handbrake rod, removed all the hoses connected to various places, the larger filler neck hose was a bit more of a pain. I though I'd removed the P-clip which hold the bottom of the filler neck but the bolt had seized and anymore force the bracket that holds it would bend a bit too much. Undid the tank straps and lowered the jack to lower the tank. The biggest ball ache was the filler neck breather which is situated right at the top of the tank. It's held on by a jubilee that locks into itself and is the tightest of squeezes to undo. My knuckles still hurt!


In the end, thanks to Mowgli's simple idea, I cut it off. Just as well really as it was funked beyond funked. Split 6 ways and literally fused to the tank. I'll be replacing the hose with some proper 11mm ID rubber fuel hose and will join it to the current breather hose a bit further up where it is in good condition.


Once removed I was left with this sight
https://images2.imgbox.com/77/85/U25DlRaD_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/9c/0c/seSMVJhM_o.jpg


A tiny bit of surface corrosion around the edges of the floor but still very solid. I was expecting a hidden nightmare but I was smiling when I saw it. Treated the small areas in question with some rust remedy and allowed it to properly work its way in. I'll be seam sealing the seams (duh) and either acid etching or zinc primer to the bare metal bits and I'll then stone chip it. I cleaned up the floor and got rid of the dust, dirt and cob webs.


Also need to find out how to remove the tank straps.


Next came tackling the tank. Here's how it came out.
https://images2.imgbox.com/3e/29/eVLPDtrk_o.jpg


https://images2.imgbox.com/b0/7f/L33UO2LI_o.jpg


This of course is the side which faces the road. The other side was clean a few little areas of corrosion but again everything else was solid. Plenty of Mr. Muscle Oven Cleaner and the trusty drill and wire brush attachment made shifting the crud was easy.


Letting Mr. Muscle do the job I hate
https://images2.imgbox.com/3b/41/RUmocS9V_o.jpg


Had to go over a few times to remove the waxoil type protection on the tank but it eventually came out. Then went over it with some 240 grit wet n dry and get it all evenly flat and then put some final rust remedy to the affected areas.
https://images2.imgbox.com/21/88/D6DwyWvO_o.jpg


I also seam sealed the joins of the tank to stop any moisture working away at it.


Then it got dark... Was at it since 12pm! Tomorrow will see the tank get primer and a coating. I've opted to go for Enamel black as it's hard wearing, easily wiped and easy to re-coat should I need to in the future.


I need a drink!

[Pistol Pete]

Not sure on the bolts.

With the cap i would have masked off the lock.

But, its all coming on well.

[Nova_Tek]

With the bolts the picture don't help, totally agree. I think picture with them used in the bay will give a better idea of the finish. I was thinking to mask the lock but I though I'd see how it looks all painted. Lock still works fine.

[Vlietje]

Looking good Tek!

[Nova_Tek]

Cheers Vlietje :thumb:

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


So another lovely spring day and therefore no excuse to not do any work.


Started where I left off the tank. All the seam sealer had hardened and the rust remedy done its work properly. I popped to Halfords and got some Zinc Primer, and some more enamel paint as I had a can at home already. I also got some 4.8mm fuel hose to use as a breather and 32mm socket for the CV nut.


Got home and gave the tank one final rub down with a brillo pad to remove any grease and stuff that I had missed. I then hung it up on the line, let it dry and gave it a couple coats of Zinc primer. Just managed to cover all the bare metal with the can I got. Lucky I had 2 cans of enamel black.


As the primer dried
https://images2.imgbox.com/ff/b7/AugHSVyh_o.jpg


https://images2.imgbox.com/2c/b4/VymShDGv_o.jpg

Once it had hardened, I prepped it for some enamel paint



1st coat
https://images2.imgbox.com/ff/bf/RPExNmPs_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/0a/34/ymGtVDnH_o.jpg

and another
https://images2.imgbox.com/da/69/iqwCnu6j_o.jpg


I let that dry outside. I made sure the breather hose was the correct fit and it was perfect. The actual length of the breather hose is about 1.1 metres so I had to clean up the old breather and cut a good bit of section to join to the new one. The new hose is a bit thicker too but the clips on the tank were able to accommodate it. Found some 13mm fuel hose so I thought I'd try see if it fits the larger breather outlet (the original one I measured as 11mm). It fit nice and snug! Only thing is that I can't seem to see how the current breather is attached to the filer neck. It doesn't look like it'll come off... that can't be right can it? I must have seen wrong!


If it does come off like I imagine it does, I'll just replace the whole lot with this 13mm hose. I originally got it for the fuel pump as it has a 13mm connection but I won't need 1 metre of it so I can use a section of it for the breather.


The tank is in the garage hanging up hardening as it's nice and warm.


Tomorrow I'll most likely get the tank fitted back once I give the underside a good going over. And possibly get the pump mounted and plumbed it too... weather permitting!

[Lee H]

Is that not a carb tank? Won't you need an injection tank for the LET?

[Nova_Tek]

If you want an internal swirl pot yes.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

The postman woke me up with some goodies I got from eBay on Monday

24 pre-cut sound deadening pads. These will be used for the underside of the roof skin. Originally the Nova has two large brown bread type padding which is glued to the skin but they just don't seem to stay glued to it. I've cleaned it up and re-glued the panel and tried re-sticking it but after a while it keeps dropping. So I decided that was it.
https://images2.imgbox.com/a1/b0/MVv29NxL_o.jpg

First up though was to treat the small area of surface corrosion that had started on the skin (Bad pic I know I was in the front seat taking a shot from the rear seat forwards )
https://images2.imgbox.com/19/5e/uQ80Hyo1_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/d3/31/zVkrYaDk_o.jpg

As you can see, it was minor. Rubbed it down, treated with rust remedy and left to work. In the mean time I decided to get cracking and stick the sound deadening pads down.

Before
https://images2.imgbox.com/49/dc/8nV2Ioon_o.jpg

Gave the panel a quick clean and wipe and he presto

After
https://images2.imgbox.com/0d/e5/R9LGBvZn_o.jpg

I then thought I'd have a look see how the breather hose was connected to the filler neck as I couldn't quite tell last time I had a quick peek. This time I realised that it was only clipped on. I didn't notice the clip due to the fresh underseal making everything look the same. Rolled the Nova out, removed the rear wheel and had a go at removing the breather. It literally twisted off as the hose was shot. Got out the 13mm hose and it was a great fit so I cut it to length and fitted that with a new jubilee clip. Looks so much fresher, sorry I didn't grab any photos, but I did get a photo of the manky old breather hose
https://images2.imgbox.com/c5/cf/iPn0rvRv_o.jpg

Now it was time for the gearbox. Those that remember way back in the thread, I found a small hole which was covered up. The hole looked like something exited from it. I had the hole welded over but I wanted to first see if there was anything dodgy and to also drain the oil out and fit a new gasket. This F20 has 10 bolts holding the sump plate in place IIRC some have 11? The oil looked quite fresh and clean so must've been changed just before the box was removed. It looked nice and clean inside too. I was expecting a bit more sludge and blackness and sh*t.

I did however see the following... must've been something to do with what caused the hole.
https://images2.imgbox.com/bf/0c/MNFDVsvP_o.jpg

A couple chipped teeth on the gear and the same on the speedo ring. Everything else looks ok. Wondering what to do about it though?

As is it now customary, I decided to paint the sump plate

Before
https://images2.imgbox.com/e6/67/lYXQUg3j_o.jpg

Rub down, clean, wipe and a few coats of enamel black
https://images2.imgbox.com/af/8a/merSPAUo_o.jpg

After
https://images2.imgbox.com/e3/3f/K5dpm57S_o.jpg

Tomorrow I plan to attack the small areas of corrosion and paint/protect the are before I fit the tank back, then mount the fuel pump, filter and damper and connect it to the tank and possibly run some wires to it.


Until then...

[John]

where are you fitting the swirl pot? :)

[Andy]

Replace the diff.And then pull out the cluster and check for other signs of damage.

[brainsnova]

My f20 blew a hole in the plate too so I got a new plate from GM and new oil and it blew something else and the oil poured out the clutch inspection plates lol I then sold the engine so never knew wtf happened.

[Nova_Tek]

where are you fitting the swirl pot? :)

I'm currently looking at different ones and their sizes. I'll then think about where I'll put it.


Replace the diff.And then pull out the cluster and check for other signs of damage.

Sounds like I'll have to take it to a gearbox place for it to be replaced. Never worked on a gearbox.


My f20 blew a hole in the plate too so I got a new plate from GM and new oil and it blew something else and the oil poured out the clutch inspection plates lol I then sold the engine so never knew wtf happened.

Oh dear! What would blow a hole through it though? No doubt it was being used as the hole was blocked and new oil put in.

[Andy]

You can make a tool to get the diff out yourself if your handy with a welder-involves 4 thick squares of metal welded to a socket to end up looking like * if you get me?
Or get a 2nd hand box of course.

[Nova_Tek]

Don't have a welder mate. I'll phone a couple places see what I get quoted.

[Andy]

Just get a known good box-it will be £250+to repair that

[Nova_Tek]

Any difference between F20 and F28 diffs? Are they interchangable? I'll still ring and ask just for labour costs. Who's to say the replacement box don't have an issue or an impending one?

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


More sunshine = more work


Got the Nova back on the ramps to get the underside sorted before I put the tank back.


Gave the areas in question a few coats with Zinc primer and then went over all the joins with some seam sealer to make sure they won't start rusting again.
https://images2.imgbox.com/e7/5e/ksFxi56u_o.jpg


https://images2.imgbox.com/9f/5e/soqZ0Dqz_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/e5/00/shHvhOEz_o.jpg


I let it dry for a while then gave the whole area a good clean then applied some stonechip underseal spray
https://images2.imgbox.com/b6/70/3B3XB2mj_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/a3/e4/HiQlCjWM_o.jpg


https://images2.imgbox.com/3c/c9/ZwVtlfNe_o.jpg


I let that try and gave the tank straps a clean and some paint too. Now came the ball ache of trying to put the tank back. Took ages especially trying to fit the breather hose into position. Eventually got it sorted and the tank looks spanking all hoses mint... nice!
https://images2.imgbox.com/38/97/PpPQkTVE_o.jpg


Need to secure the breather hose at the filler neck end and also sort out the pump assembly. had to finish off quickly as I had a leaving do to go to, mate from work was moving to another store.


If the weather holds out then tomorrow should see that get done too.


Knackered!

[brucer]

good work tek, ive got a spare standard diff and a cluster if you needed them.

[Nova_Tek]

Cheers Brucer, it may be of use to me. I'll let you know what happens when the gearbox is opened up for inspection.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


Got the gearbox gaskets and seal come through yesterday.
https://images2.imgbox.com/44/c5/VPhAYehw_o.jpg

Slightly jumping the gun as there is a chance the gearbox will be further damaged. Although I did contact the seller and asked him to confirm the condition of the box when he sold it to me. He did state that he personally used it and drove it to make sure it was ok.


If it turns out that the rest is ok then the new gaskets and seals will come in handy.


Weather forecast looks a bit dodgy in the coming week so hopefully it holds out for a couple days so I can get it checked.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

What a contrast from last weeks weather. This week has been utter crap therefore I've been limited to what I can do inside in small spaces :(

Thought I'd paint match the gearbox sump bolts to the rest of the colour scheme in the bay and decided to paint the in gold.

Here they were after a wire brushing and clean
https://images2.imgbox.com/a8/97/YkPgRjFq_o.jpg
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/2205/1003146k.jpg

and after a few coats of Gold Hammerite and left to dry for a day
https://images2.imgbox.com/ca/8e/e6w5payi_o.jpg
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/6121/1003148x.jpg

I'm on the look out for a small FMIC. Been checking on the bay and have found a couple new ones. Money has been tight this month so I need to hold back and limit what I buy for the Nova.

I was also wondering what to do with the cams. I've got XE inlet and exhaust cams sitting there and the condition of those are better than the standard LET ones that were in the engine. Now do I just fit the inlet, rebuild it up and run the engine in with that? Keep the standard ones and run it in using them or fit both the inlet and exhaust?

Won't be able to get a RR done to set them up properly until the engine is run in so just in a slight 'what to do' mode.

Also went Halfords and got a 30mm socket to remove the CVs.

Roll on sunshine so I can get sh*t done!

[brucer]

getting there tek, with the cams, if you dont mind changing them afterwards id stay with standard. but even on standard marks the xe inlet cam gives a bit of a gain so all you would have to do then is adjust them on the dyno once run in.

i have heard that changing the exhaust cam is only really beneficial for higher powered LET's. i may be wrong though.

[Nova_Tek]

There was a discussion some time ago but I can't remember. Couldn't remember how much benefit the exhasut cam made. I may just stick with the inlet as it's in much better condition and it'll be ok to run with standard marks until the engine is run in.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE

Got well frustrated with the weather today. Cloudy - drizzle - sunshine - thunder & rain - sunny - rain... Eventually it seemed that it was going to stay dry as there were no clouds nearby. Whipped out the gearbox just managing to get it under the garage door for some shelter. Removed the gear selector housing and removed the bolts from the gear cluster plate and took out the gears. Had a good look, as best I could to see if there was anything that didn't look right.

Found nothing bad: no metal bits, no swarf, no damaged gears, no chipped teeth, everything seemed great. Tried to see if there was any play in the gears in order to get an idea of bearing wear. All seems good :)

My assumption is that something went wrong, they cracked the box open and replaced what was needed and left the diff assuming they thought it'd be fine with its two teeth slightly chipped. Gaskets I removed looked pretty new too so all signs indicate what I have been guessing. With the all clear I'll get the diff changed by my mate.

Went in to get the gaskets so I could replace the ones on the end, as I come out it started p*ssing down and a bit of thunder too :cry:. Although I was under cover I was still getting rained on. Had to quickly get the box put back together, albeit without gaskets, in my haste I forgot to take pics :mad: Waiting for some sunshine so I can clean and paint the box and refit the gaskets.

Haven't been able to work out how the driveshaft o-ring seals are removed to change them. I've ordered a tap and die set so I can tap a thread into the diff cover plate for a drain hole. Wanna stick el-cheapo diff oil in first, do a few miles and drain it out in order to stick some quality stuff in.

Working over the weekend so I guess this'll be something for next week. Just hope the weather improves.

[Andy]

Driveshaft oil seals come out like all other oil seals-brute force and ignorance lol
Then use a 30mm (iirc) socket as a drift to tap it (new un) home.

[maddogdaz666]

I'm sure I've got a total Vauxhall magazine with the Benefits of the xe cam, from what I can remember the exhaust cam made no change, but the inlet cam retarded or advanced half a tooth ( i cant remember which) made +30 bhp. I'll have a look and get back to you. They're all stacked in my downstairs toilet :thumb: so I'll go spend 20 mins on the bog and find it :)

[Nova_Tek]

lol ok

I started having a dig at them with a screw driver and thought 'this can't be right' :) I've got 30mm socket so pushing them in should be easy. Getting them out will be fun.

:thumb:

[Andy]

Yeah its only the inlet cam what gets used and needs setting up with a vernier pulley

[Nova_Tek]

I'm sure I've got a total Vauxhall magazine with the Benefits of the xe cam, from what I can remember the exhaust cam made no change, but the inlet cam retarded or advanced half a tooth ( i cant remember which) made +30 bhp. I'll have a look and get back to you. They're all stacked in my downstairs toilet :thumb: so I'll go spend 20 mins on the bog and find it :)

I know that retarded 7deg/half tooth is where you get best gains but I can't for the life of me remember what they said about the exhaust cam. I know someone on MIG is running both but it's on aftermarket management.

I'm sure I got that article on pdf somewhere... meh I'll find it.

[Benn]

So you stripped the box just to check it? Or was there signs it had been apart? Should of said i have 3 spares..lol

[nova_niek]

UPDATE Wanna stick el-cheapo diff oil in first, do a few miles and drain it out in order to stick some quality stuff in.

Tek, why would you want to run cheap oil first? To sort of clean out the box? Or is there another reason? Please spill the beans...

Any idea what quality oil you are going to run in her?

Cheers,
Niek

[maddogdaz666]

The info on xe cams is in issue 76 autumn 2007 on page 124 and it says a 20 bhp benefit on the inlet xe cam retarded half a tooth, on an already healthy cab turbo. It's a really interesting read

[Benn]

It's on their website too Daz.

[maddogdaz666]

It's on their website too Daz.

Lol I've never been on it, I'm still Old skool, I'm not used to all this interweb thingy yet lol

[Benn]

lol i only found it when i needed the info as i was setting mine up..

[Nova_Tek]

So you stripped the box just to check it? Or was there signs it had been apart? Should of said i have 3 spares..lol

I opened it up to check there was no damage to anything else as I found the diff with the corner of two of it's teeth chipped and a small hole where something looked like it exited with some force. So just to be on the safe side. However I can't seem to find out what final drive it has. I'm hoping it's a long ratio so I get a calm motorway driving experience :)


Tek, why would you want to run cheap oil first? To sort of clean out the box? Or is there another reason? Please spill the beans...

Any idea what quality oil you are going to run in her?

Cheers,
Niek

Yeah, to clean it out. No doubt after opening, as well as it sitting for a while with tissue/cloth in the shaft opening, there will be a bit of dust and what not in there as well as old oil. Wanna run it for like a few miles druing run in and then flush it and put good quality oil. I've had my eye on castrol SynTrans (I forget what it's called excatly) 75/90 fully synthetic. Should get it for a good price from Halfords with the trade card.


The info on xe cams is in issue 76 autumn 2007 on page 124 and it says a 20 bhp benefit on the inlet xe cam retarded half a tooth, on an already healthy cab turbo. It's a really interesting read

Well it'll be a healthy LET, it'll be fully rebuilt so 20 brake will be nice.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


Lousy weather and work meant no progress this week. I'd much rather have it hammer down with rain all day or be sunny rather than a mixture of both every couple of hours... weather like this just drives me nuts!


I did however get the following bits...


Mate of mine has been pestering me for the standard Cav/Cally IC I got. Because of that I decided to look around for a FMIC. After much surfing and deliberation I decided to go for this one
https://images2.imgbox.com/ae/5a/cIyY4qGt_o.jpg


It seemed to tick the boxes. Dimensions are 680mm x 140mm x 65mm 2.25" inlet/outlets easily reduced with a couple reducer hoses to 2". And it didn't break the bank.


I also got this
https://images2.imgbox.com/fd/53/lQ2nH93s_o.jpg


Got it from Christian1992 on here. Hard to come by so will deffo be useful in the future should anything go wrong with my current ones. I did have a faulty fuel gauge anyway. I took out all the gauges, cleaned up the housing, cleaned up the dial faces, fitted them back together with the new fuel gauge and also re-coloured the red zones on the dial faces too. I had to seeing as they had all faded to a light orange
https://images2.imgbox.com/d5/24/vPgVLXLl_o.jpg


Hoping the weather becomes better over the coming week or so. Contemplating if I should take some of my paid leave to speed up the progress (I've got sh*t loads left).

[scott.parker]

Do you plan to mount the IC behind the grill part of the bumper? is that the size to get for doing so?

Scott

[Nova_Tek]

Yeah, rather than mount it down by the cross member I'm looking to mount it up instead due to restricted airflow by the plow. I measured the opening and this looks like it'll allow just enough room for the hoses. I measured the gap as approx 800mm on the Nova. I'll be able to tell next week when I remove the bumper.

[nova_niek]

http://www.pngclub.com/forum/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by nova_niek http://www.pngclub.com/forum/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2016320#post2016320)
Any idea what quality oil you are going to run in her?




I've had my eye on castrol SynTrans (I forget what it's called excatly) 75/90 fully synthetic. Should get it for a good price from Halfords with the trade card.


Excellent choice mr. Tek. I've always run SMX-S (the predecessor of SynTrans iirc) in my LSD box and was well happy with that.

[Benn]

Ic looks good, very much like mine i think.

[Vlietje]

Good stuff! Nice parts mate and yes SynTrans is the best for gearboxes. Some old guy with long hair from Lelystad told me that... :d

[Nova_Tek]

Excellent choice mr. Tek. I've always run SMX-S (the predecessor of SynTrans iirc) in my LSD box and was well happy with that.

Nice to hear that it's a good oil. It's about £12 per litre at halfords so I should be able to get between 30% - 50% off. I've checked on ebay but they are not far off the retail price. As a start I'll probably just stick in Halfords own oil just to flush it out.


Ic looks good, very much like mine i think.

It does look a bit like yours. Then again almost all the IC's on ebay looked almost identical bar the dimensions.


Good stuff! Nice parts mate and yes SynTrans is the best for gearboxes. Some old guy with long hair from Lelystad told me that... :d

Old guy with long hair?! Well if he says it's good... it has to be lol

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


Weather still holding me back and I currently don't have enough room in the garage to get the gearbox on the and to be able to change the gaskets and paint the thing. Therefore I've been doing little jobs again.


First was to paint the gearbox end plate seeing as it was off.


Here it is after a quick clean

https://images2.imgbox.com/11/3c/PTrGR6su_o.jpg


I came across a nice surprise when I started wire brushing it. The stamping was starting to show ( I used an engraving bit to bring up the digits a bit more) and I was finally be able to see what final drive ratio it had - C342 - happy that it is the FD ratio it is as it'll mean slightly longer gears so hopefully motorway driving shouldn't be like driving in 3rd Although I'm not particularly sure what version of F20 this is (CR/W5a/W5b).

https://images2.imgbox.com/f9/93/82taxg1f_o.jpg


I gave it a couple coats of hammerite
https://images2.imgbox.com/a3/d9/DlOmXKyh_o.jpg


Also picked this up the other day, Not bad for £12...
https://images2.imgbox.com/6b/a1/wZPWWtcH_o.jpg


I found the dizzy drive in one of the parts boxes and realised it was the only bit of the engine not to have some paint on it. It looked a right mess, so it got the same treatment.


Gave it a clean and masked it up
https://images2.imgbox.com/3d/7d/a5uilDBY_o.jpg


Gave it a coat of paint too and it's now drying.
https://images2.imgbox.com/09/85/Hamab9ui_o.jpg


Then popped to Halfords to pick up some gearbox oil. I got two different types. Their own brand to use for a few miles while the engine is running in, this will clean out any old oil, dust and dirt that the box would've picked up while not being used and worked on. And the second oil will be used after it's flushed - fully synthetic gear oil.
https://images2.imgbox.com/08/00/OxyyPysq_o.jpg


Got them at trade price. Halfords stuff is about £8.50 each standard got it for just over £6 each, and the Castrol stuff is £12.50 each and got that for £10 each.

[Nova_Tek]

Now that the dizzy has dried, here it is
https://images2.imgbox.com/ec/22/OKsRgic3_o.jpg
http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/8206/1003173cq.jpg

Before painting it I gave it a good clean inside as well as out. But I'm just wondering if the dizzy internals should be this exposed
https://images2.imgbox.com/e0/59/5k5mGi7J_o.jpg
http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/585/1003174z.jpg

Is there something missing from that picture? Any pictures of how they should look?

:thumb:

[Vlietje]

Parts look nice and fresh, is that standard Hammerite or are you using something that can sustain the heat?

[Nova_Tek]

For the block, head & inlet I've used Very Hight Temp aluminum paint as they'll get the hottest (can be seen way back in the thread). The cam cover has been powder coated but the dizzy (pictured) and the gearbox will be painted with silver Hammerite smooth as heat won't be a huge issue - i.e. not enough to worry the Hammerite. Luckily you can't really tell the difference between the two in tint

[Vlietje]

Old guy with long hair?! Well if he says it's good... it has to be lol

Nova_Niek: http://i537.photobucket.com/albums/ff333/nova_niek/niek/various/Kerst2008Niekkookboekklein.jpg

[Nova_Tek]

lol

[fossit85]

Great looking build bud +rep

[Nova_Tek]

Cheers pal :thumb:

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


Well... apart from yesterday and me being able to spend a few hours doing stuff it's been a disappointing week. Only thing I've been able to do is sit and wait for parts and even those aren't turning up.


Waiting for the other half of the tap set to arrive. A bit of a balls up at the seller end meant I got a die set and not a tap set. Soon as that arrives I can drill a hole in the diff plate and tap a thread to accept a bolt.


I did manage to spend a few hours to clean up the gearbox yesterday. What a PITA that was. So many nooks and crannies I had difficulty cleaning. In the end I just about did enough to get it clean and gave it a couple coats of Hammerite. Good thing too as about 30 mins later it was pishing it down. I let it dry overnight and it now looks like this
https://images2.imgbox.com/1e/cf/IultlUwF_o.jpg


https://images2.imgbox.com/70/78/MJMCk8Wx_o.jpg

(You'll have to excuse the way it has been the photos have been taken, couldn't take it out as it's raining)


Once dry, a bit of good weather will allow me to fit the new seals and gaskets.


These also turned up this morning
https://images2.imgbox.com/6f/63/emzVqkHI_o.jpg


57mm - 51mm 90 degree reducers for the IC. They'll need a fair bit of cutting down so the fit in the small amount of space left either side of the IC. Is it just these or do all silicone hoses smell like the blue blocks that they use in urinals?


That, I'm afraid, is all for now. Really wanna get this project sorted just need a bit of good weather damn it!

[Benn]

Box looks great, silicone smells funny yes.

[Lee H]

You need to cut the lug off the bottom of your gearbox to stop it fouling on the tie bar. Can see it in the bottom right of your picture.

[Nova_Tek]

Would that be the lug between the two bolts?

lol ok... was just making sure. Kinda adictive... found myself sniffing it a fair few times lol

Box does look good but a couple places had some running in the paint... meh!

[Nova_Tek]

Woooo... finally one of the items I ordered has finally arrived...

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/5063/1003178gz.jpg
Wonder what it is...
https://images2.imgbox.com/d7/6a/yGx0tASy_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/1a/18/bWBukd5n_o.jpghttp://img843.imageshack.us/img843/125/1003179u.jpg

Oh yeah... spanking new Valeo XE/LET clutch kit which includes the friction plate, pressure plate, bearing and 3 little metal brackets? Avoided going for cheap ebay ones I've never heard of.

Tomorrow I'll check to make sure it fits the gearbox/fly ok. Hopefully I'll get my thread tap kit so I can sort out the diff plate.

[Spudly]

Would that be the lug between the two bolts?




Yes, take it back as far as you can/dare, i forgot mine completely and got a horrible grinding noise through the front end after i lowered the front to match the back lol



Still catches a little bit as you cant get fully in with a grinder while its on the car, ive sectioned a piece of thick water pipe onto the tiebar using tiewraps to hold it for now to cushion it till i can get the bar off and get the last little bit off:thumb:

[Nova_Tek]

Cheers... I've got many mini cutting discs for the dremmel tool, so I should be able to trim that back rather nicely and flush it so it's level with the rest of the box. Should be able to do that tomorrow.

[Nova_Tek]

UPDATE


Finally got what I was waiting for


10.2 Drill bit and M12 Thread Tap
https://images2.imgbox.com/71/01/S5naLc0X_o.jpg


I got the other set earlier in the week but wanted to have a M12 sized hole so draining oil would be a tad quicker.
https://images2.imgbox.com/83/72/SjGRGqqA_o.jpg

I first checked that the clutch would fit the gearbox... and it did, so all is well with that.

I then moved on to sorting the diff plate. First made sure that I was going to pick the correct place to drill the hole. Has to be the lowest point so all the oil will drain out. The plate had a circular marking on the inside. Most likely a casting mark. After a bit of checking, it seemed that the circular mark was pretty much bang on lowest point. So out came the drill and bit and a hole was made. Drilling the hole took seconds, the alloy seemed fairly soft and didn't put up much of a fight. Then came out the M12 tap and I slowly cut the thread into the plate. The plate is thick enough to cut a decent amount of thread... well enough for a screw to hold on well (approx 3 - 4 lines of thread).

Now came the task of finding a screw/bolt in the garage that would fit. Found a few but some had different thread pitch/dimensions. The tap I used was M12 x 1.75. Found another bolt that fit perfect. Was a bit on the long side (longer than a gearbox bell housing to block bolt) but I can cut it down to size. Need to get a decent washer or two. I tightened the bolt right up and it tightens well. Next came the leak test. Poured a whole load of WD40 into the plate and it didn't leak either. I then gave the whole thing a good going over with the drill/wire brush to get rid of any small bits of metal and as a general clean. Job done!
https://images2.imgbox.com/6c/9a/uyGY5Ijt_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/f6/cb/px6lmj6J_o.jpg

Picture of a bolt screwed into it
https://images2.imgbox.com/32/3f/apMXfmJ5_o.jpg

Hopefully tomorrow I should get the gearbox seals & gaskets fitted bar the diff plate as my mate will be changing over the current diff for a replacement one (due to a bit of damage). I'll be at work though so will miss all the fun