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View Full Version : Spraying parts of my car!



joeczucha
03-04-03, 09:01 PM
I wanna spray my mirrors and the back vinyl strip, as well as the door handles and eventually the bumpers.

:arrow: Is there any technique to spray evenly apart from very light layers? The mirrors ended up with the paint running a bit. Also, they felt sticky after spraying and my mate told me it was maybe because i had used that Back To Black a while ago on them.

:arrow: Do i need to sand the back strip? I didn't really bother and now its flecking off a bit. I used the right plastikote primer, but i'm not sure if it was because it wasn't smooth or because of the Back To Black again?

:arrow: Do i need to do anything between the primer and main layers, or after each layer of paint? Or before for that matter? My trusty mate suggested rubbing it a bit with wet n dry to roughen up the surface a bit?

Thanks, Joe

joeczucha
03-04-03, 10:04 PM
Incidently, how much would it cost (seperate prices please) roughly to get the following sprayed...

:arrow: Mirror backs
:arrow: Door handles
:arrow: Vinyl strip
:arrow: MK2 Bumpers / GSI Bumpers (are they the same?)
:arrow: GSI Spoiler
:arrow: GSI Skirts

Might just get the shop to do it! Or should i have a go?
J

Euan
04-04-03, 12:04 PM
why dont u just remove the vinyl. if not then you might end up with a layer effect

Nova-Boy
04-04-03, 12:42 PM
If you do all the preperation work yourself it wont cost much to get it done by a pro.

Get everything rubbed down filled and primered. Then rub it down with very fine wet and dry grade such as 1200 or something, wash it all and then it will be ready for a top coat. If it is done all at the same time it would only take 10 mins to do the final coat. it is all in the prep work!

You could even try the final coat yourself using a sray gun if you have one or colour match spray cans. Keep it the same distance away and have a practice on something before doing your parts.

Even if you get runs in it or something just wet and dry it and give it another coat. After a few coats if it has a run in it wet and dry it and then laquer (spelling) it. If you realy fcuk it then just rub it down and take it in to get done by a pro.

Dont spray your vinyl take it off!!

joeczucha
04-04-03, 02:34 PM
OK i might just remove the vinyl it will look better. The only thing is, what do with the boot lock? It will not open if its not secured to the vinyl and i can't be arsed to delock it and/or smooth tailgate...

Nova-Boy
04-04-03, 02:51 PM
:o I am sorry but i have no idea what you mean about the boot lock? are you talking about the vinyl part on the boot of Srs and GTEs etc? Can you not just peel it off the boot? I dont understand :roll:

joeczucha
04-04-03, 04:40 PM
Well... vinyl strip has a lock in the middle. The lock is fixed through the bodywork to the vinyl... thats the bit i mean - if i take away the vinyl i'll just have a bit sticking out lock bit that looks stupid! J

?Marty?
05-04-03, 12:40 AM
Oh sweet jesus, i'm going to kill myself.

:roll:

mikeoxford
05-04-03, 12:44 AM
Oh sweet jesus, i'm going to kill myself.

:roll:

not your first choice of mod marty!? :lol: :wink:

Freak
05-04-03, 01:21 PM
:lol:

ade
05-04-03, 02:21 PM
quality!

:lol:

M8 - 1stly get a really good book called "restoring bodywork" by haynes - you can get it in most halfords.

Bumpers, mirrors and other plastic bits -

You need to remove ALL traces of back to black - this is silicone based and paint wont stick to it. Youre runs/sticky bits are caused by spraying too thick. Bumpers have bobbly surface, you can spray over this but you might wanna smooth this down (use orbita sander and see my earlier post about spraying bumpers a week or so ago)

You need to degrease (get a proper degreaser or use white spirit) 1st, then sand back using 400 grit wet n dry (dry). Degrease. Then prime using plastic primer (not plastikote plastic primer has better adhesion properties) - 3 layers built up thinly and evenly - hold can 10cm away from item being sprayed. Allow 5 mins between coats to dry.
Allow to dry for 24 hours in warm area, then gently flat surface back using 800 wet n dry (dry). Degrease. Then spray using top coat - same as primer but you might wanna do more than 3 layers (high impact areas). Allow to dry for at least 24 hours in warm area. Sand back very gently using 1000 wet n dry (wet) and a bit of washing up liquid. Be careful near edges! This will dull it just slightly so...lacquer (see below)
Dry and degrease. Leave to harden for a few days. As bumpers, grill and mirrors are high impace areas you should lacquer these as stone chips will shag it very quickly. Lacquer will bring out excellent shine from the sanded part (which will have dulled slightly) providing you have flatted back properly.

Allow to fully harden for at least 10 days. You can now buff up using super resin polish or t-cut etc to remove small impurities...

As for side panels, boot etc, your grab handle can be removed from inside the boot remove the rear trim and theres 2x 10mm screws. The vynal shouldnt be attached to it. If it is then someones done a dodge repair job at some time.
Remove vynal with either heat gun on low setting waft gun over vynal and peel slowly and gently or use hair dryer. This softens glue

As for resprsying these panels one removed, I would seriously consider using a body shop as these are large sections and if you fcuk it up (ie runs) it will be blatantly obviosu and look crap!

Ade
:wink:

privatepie
06-04-03, 01:40 PM
to get a smoth bumper put a few coats of plastic primer then 2 gd coats of filler primer and it should leave a nice smoth bumper for paint :D

joeczucha
06-04-03, 05:12 PM
Does that mean you wouldn't have the hassle of sanding the whole thing down? J

privatepie
06-04-03, 05:14 PM
yes it does i havent actualy done this but ive beeen told it works well

ade
07-04-03, 12:00 AM
filler primer is good on areas that require very thin build up of paint however if using on flexible areas like unreinforces plastic it can and in my experience will crack, especially when some tw4t clips yer bumper in a car park or when parking!

:evil:

Filler primer is ok but if applied to thick will not set and goes a horrible mess.

I advise in my experience to sand as much down 1st using an orbital sander (?15 from B&Q), then use filler primer to get the areas you cant reach. This stuff also freezes the extra fluffy plastic making it easier to smooth.

Ade

mikeoxford
07-04-03, 12:45 AM
Filler primer is ok but if applied to thick will not set and goes a horrible mess.

yellow stuff from halfords?

in an enclosed garage it smells bloody nice :twisted: :lol: :roll: LOL so ventilate well, else you wont know wether your comming or going

ade
07-04-03, 01:00 AM
yep - kind of orangey yellow.