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bmw156
26-09-09, 09:12 PM
This is a guide on how to change a complete front panel on a nova,

Befor this, I was worried about cutting the engine out with out any bracing to hold the two inner wings together, but this was not needed and the engine supported its self ok with out moving.

I was also told to make measurements of where things sat, but I didn’t do any of this. As the panel can only go in one place. We did how ever just looked at some gaps and kind of reference points in our heads for the new panel


Tools needed:

Welder
Grinder with cutting and grinding discs
Drill, with 10mm drill bit or spot weld drill bit.
Either nitromorse or a wire wheel attachment
A set of cold chisels, these are essential
Sockets: 17mm, 15mm, 13mm, 10mm, 8mm and I needed a 7mm for one of my jublie clips. Also either a double of the above sockets or a spanner for the nut.
Pliers, wire cutters and general screwdrivers
HAMMER
Mole grips
And if you want to do it how we did it, a fat **** petrol saw AKA a paddy saw

Buy the front panel, I bought a pattern part for about 50 quid I think, it was a while ago, and I also painted it up before I fitted it. Some people would disagree with this, but I think it’s a good idea. I had slight worries about the fitting of this, but all was well

The start

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2424.jpg~original

Strip all the bits of the front, including the radiator, bumpers, lights, indicators, wings. I struggled a tiny bit getting the radiator out with the engine in. but managed it.

You should be left with something like this
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2445.jpg~original

Minus the wings. And also that picture shows the way I got the radiator out, coming upwards.

Find a man, with a big saw and cut out the middle bit on the front panel, this aids getting to the spot welds

bmw156
27-09-09, 09:38 AM
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2467.jpg~original

To be left with
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2469.jpg~original

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2471.jpg~original

Next I would say, hunt out all of the spot welds, there are a lot, but grind back the paint or under seal in the way and it usually leave a bit of paint where the spot weld is.

Just some general pictures of where they are and where to grind.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2450.jpg~original

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2452.jpg~original

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2455.jpg~original

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2456.jpg~original

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2463.jpg~original

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2481.jpg~original

And once you start drilling through them all, as we did, you can start to pull bits of and chop them as you go.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2473.jpg~original

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2475.jpg~original


The bottom of the chassis legs are by far the hardest to remove, as there are about 12 spot welds holding it on. One of the bottoms on mine had rottern away so one side was good lol, and the other side we just cut because it started to rot. This saved a lot of time I think and its not hard to weld a bit of fresh metal back onto afterwards.

Some pictures of the removing of the chassis legs/ end of the cross member

bmw156
27-09-09, 09:39 AM
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2477.jpg~original

There should be abit going across the bottom, but it had rotted
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2478.jpg~original

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2479.jpg~original

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2487.jpg~original/IMG]


Now, I had a bit of rot at the top of the inner wing, so we cut it out quickly and made a template

Bit cut out

[IMG]http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2491.jpg~original

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2492.jpg~original

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2494.jpg~original

So once you have removed all the old metal. Clean up all the faces and grind of any little bits of old metal. Make sure all the faces are clean for welding, and also either use nitro Morse or a wire wheel and take of the black paint on the new panel on all of the necessary tabs / areas.

Then we clamped the front panel on, using some mole grips agiant some small tabs, in these places

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2497.jpg~original

Then it’s a case of welding where you have gripped, so grip weld, grip weld etc until you have all of your tabs welded back up again. While the panel was clamped, we did do some checks just by eye. To see it bits had lined up.

Some clamp and welding lol
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2499.jpg~original

You can see where my paint was burning, as to where we welded

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2502.jpg~original

We also stitch welded the tie bar plates on the new front panel, as it would be rude not to.

Once the panel was in a good place and welded, and wasn’t going any where, we made the bottom chassis leg plates which we either cut of or had rotted away

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2504.jpg~original

Which goes here

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2519.jpg~original

And the other was just a bit of flat plate

Then when your happy, grind away all the welds which will be visable, and under seal, seam seal and primer them, like so

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2510.jpg~original

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2513.jpg~original

bmw156
27-09-09, 09:39 AM
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2516.jpg~original


And then paint up

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2520.jpg~original

And then refit everything. And you’re good to go.

I would suggest running a tap through the two threaded holes on the front panel, as we stripped one of the bolts, so had to improvise

Any questions please ask and im sure me and burgo could help.

Many thanks to burgo. For the great help

And I have many more pictures or rusty areas and like close ups. Please ask and I will see what I have.

Also any hints please say them.

Iain
27-09-09, 10:40 AM
Nice guide! Made quite a scary looking job look quite easy!

Balley
27-09-09, 12:40 PM
i would like to do this to my TD, is it the same panel??
how long did it take you?
i can weld and have done smallparts before like this and am a mechanic by trade so i am sure i can manage it, i just wanted to know how easy the job will be on the drive by myself??

oh and is it a pattern part ifso did it fit well???

bmw156
27-09-09, 02:02 PM
thanks iainel

and balley, i think TD are the same panel, as this has a TD bracket on it for the rad. but just check beever panels.

with me and the legend burgo, it took roughly a day. i started at 8.30 and stripped the front end and we were welding the new one on by 1.30. but then we hit a small problem with a bolt. but to be safe i would say a nice dry weekend will see you through it.

we done it on my drive as you can see, and there was very few times we needed both of us. just when one had to hold a piece of metal up and the other weld.

yes it is a pattern part. and it is a good fit. we had to use the persuader a few times.

Balley
27-09-09, 02:16 PM
thanks bmw156, if i can pick one up cheap enough i will fit it next summer when i get my 1.7 in :D

burgo
28-09-09, 01:05 AM
the crossmember is the same balley but im sure youve noticed on you td theres a removable part of the slam panel, you would have to make this yourself.



i still love that repair we made :)

Balley
28-09-09, 05:27 PM
the crossmember is the same balley but im sure youve noticed on you td theres a removable part of the slam panel, you would have to make this yourself.

i still love that repair we made :)

thanks mate my top half isn't that bad so i will hopefully be able to chop the top off and re use bits :D

burgo
28-09-09, 05:35 PM
buy just a crossmember then so you dont have to touch the slam panel at all

Balley
28-09-09, 06:06 PM
i need the headlight brackets and that and the slam panel has been plated i think i could buy a complete front end and just make it fit though!

nova-taken
31-10-09, 01:14 AM
EXCELLENT GUIDE!! was dreading having to do this to my 87 antibes! but now i think that it should be easy enuff if i just follow the guide.

Cheers guy

bmw156
31-10-09, 06:17 PM
glad to be of help mate. it is not a hard task, just take it slow and like ya say, follow this

Nobby
04-11-09, 07:20 PM
im going to be attempting this in the next few weeks ill post up my action lol

bmw156
04-11-09, 07:32 PM
wicked dude, yeh post up any helpful pics and the results as well, more pics the merrier :)

chapo_nova
05-11-09, 03:45 PM
thankz, tht helped loads. cheers

lidz
31-01-11, 10:51 PM
very good guide, same as everyone else im dreading this job ! i was wondering if its possible just to change the x member and not the full panel as its only my tie bar mounts that are rotten ? is it a big job ? thanks, dan.

bmw156
31-01-11, 11:03 PM
I would say the cross member might be harder due to little space and access with engine in.

lidz
01-02-11, 11:36 PM
sorry i forgot to mention that the engine, bumper, grill, rad etc are all removed. iv just found out you can no longer buy just a x member its the full front panel so might just do the lot ?

bmw156
01-02-11, 11:38 PM
yeh you might as well do the whole lot. then you know you know you have solid headlights and cross member.

Wazza024
27-03-11, 12:47 PM
These are a bitch to do on the turbo conversion as the plating kits go over the top. But ive got all mine out and ready to put the new one back in but im having trouble pushing it all the way back did you have this trouble? and also where the towing eye is how am i meant to spot weld that when you cant get near it or what did you do on yours?

bmw156
28-03-11, 10:03 AM
Hey, from what i can remember around the towing eye we welded where we had drilled out the spot welds like in these pics

and no we didnt have any trouble in pushing it all the way back, the molegrips went on with out any trouble in the pics shown. you must have some bits left onthe shell which are in your way.


http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2477.jpg~original

There should be abit going across the bottom, but it had rotted
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2478.jpg~original

L14MNP
28-03-11, 11:57 AM
I replaced the lot on mine too. Much easier and more worthwhile IMO.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v245/Con2K/nova/DSC00206.jpg

swedge
02-06-11, 12:29 PM
ill be doing this in the next couple months but the engine may be out

would i need to brace the chassis legs if i remove the engine and front panel?

philly
18-06-11, 01:04 PM
just done mine and this guide was pretty helpful.
i must admit, without spot weld drill bits it would have been terrible, god bless screwfix!

couple of pics to help others.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/plip_plop/new%20nova%20gsi%20project/hhj004.jpg~original

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/plip_plop/new%20nova%20gsi%20project/passengerfrontmounting.jpg~original

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/plip_plop/new%20nova%20gsi%20project/passengerfrontmounting1.jpg~original

burgo
18-06-11, 01:57 PM
that "stitch welding" on the bulkhead is shocking. more power or less wire speed will get you in the right direction

swedge
18-06-11, 02:39 PM
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2478.jpg~original

how the hell do you get into the spot weld at the side of the towing eye with the engine in?

burgo
18-06-11, 02:50 PM
drill through from the front

swedge
18-06-11, 02:57 PM
duh why didnt i think of that lol

GMeaks
23-02-13, 11:42 PM
Sorry to resurrect this awesome guide but does anyone know if the MKI and MKII front slam panel/cross member is the same part?? And also where can I source one? Going to be doing this in the next couple weeks with engine out as the bay needs a good clean-up also.

Thanks, Greg

burgo
24-02-13, 01:03 AM
Genuine panels are slightly different but I doubt you will find one of them so it'll be a pattern part which are all the same

GMeaks
24-02-13, 12:15 PM
Genuine panels are slightly different but I doubt you will find one of them so it'll be a pattern part which are all the same

Thanks very much, hope it all goes back together with correct gaps etc lol

burgo
24-02-13, 12:18 PM
The tolerances on novas were huge anyway so you will do well to muck it up

Jamie.
05-08-13, 10:29 PM
Is the slam panels on ebay any good?

BlakeFourTwenty
27-08-13, 12:32 PM
I know this is off topic, but was that grill made? If so, was it difficult, i love it.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/bmw156/front%20panel/DSC_2424.jpg~original

burgo
27-08-13, 02:35 PM
Nope its a rare genuine one. They come up on ebay every now and again

dgbnova#1
27-08-13, 02:46 PM
There are some gm pannels out there I sold mine the other week put an add in the wanted section as I know of another 1 at least

F88GTEMAPPY
18-02-14, 02:11 AM
Great guide with the looks of it...ive just bougt the missus a '89 2door saloon and it needs the full front panel. Are these pattern parts the ones for £125 off of ebay? need to get this done to show her that im not just focusing on my XE GTE build lol and this is the guide im going to use wile the engine is still in!

dgbnova#1
18-02-14, 03:38 AM
If you go for patern Pannel just tack it In a few places and build it up again as if you look a lot of posts are complaints that things don't line up correct easy to move a few tacs or self tappers than a welded panel

125 is a good price also try euro parts they can still get them

silk violet
15-10-15, 03:50 PM
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hi there i am replacing my front panel and needed some advice and i am running a 20xe and just wondered if its worth strengthening with metal plates where the tie rods bolt to the front panel as if i was to put plates over the top would the tie rod bracket bolt holes still line up if so what size thickness metal to use any suggestions....????? :thumb:

Benn
15-10-15, 10:11 PM
It all helps. 1mm thick would be a good start. I plated the cross member to chassis left join too.