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View Full Version : respraying, need many a tip!



Curtoise
05-09-09, 12:08 PM
hi all,
next weekend im going to spray my nova as the paint is like watercolours at the moment. however im new to this so am unsure of what to do, its only going to be an exterior respray so were not removing any windows just masking up well. the main problem i see is the guttering?? i was thinking of removing it but couldnt find any pics of a nova with it removed? also how do you get the gutter trim off?????

im replacing my doors at the same time to hit two birds with one stone, so im planning on spraying the doors uo off the car. also what should i take off front end/back!?!?

BTW im not gonna be spraying it myseft because it would look **** lol, my dad will spray it as hes done many capris and others back in the day.

any hints/tips/ problem areas will be of great help

thanks

napalm_27
05-09-09, 12:18 PM
preperation is the key to any spray job

**** prep = **** finish

Curtoise
05-09-09, 12:21 PM
yh

greg1.4
05-09-09, 06:24 PM
i cant explain enough how important preperation is..

i wouldnt leave windows or anyting in. the last time my nova was panted we done it properly with everything off, windows, aerial, mirrors, seals, lights, all panels removed and painted seperate..makes a much tidier job imo.
i will never be masking up again..

brainsnova
05-09-09, 06:31 PM
round all the rubbers etc traps dirt so the paint wont skick and if a window etc has to come out then nightmare. also quicker to remove all the parts than to mask round all them.

mayhem
05-09-09, 06:34 PM
remove all the parts... you will regret it if you dont.

as said...propper prepping it is a #%@#@ job to do, but it will effect the end result.

let_nova
05-09-09, 06:34 PM
prep prep prep

let_nova
05-09-09, 06:37 PM
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/spray-painting.htm

Benn
05-09-09, 06:40 PM
Nova windows take 2mins to take out. Take them out.

Use a good panel wipe to clean everything (before masking too) Dont use thinners.

Gutter trims just pull of, if yo warm them up they come off easier as the glue thats holds them on melts/softens up.

320 grit/red scotch anything you are gonna paint.

auzzy-b
05-09-09, 07:44 PM
Nova windows take 2mins to take out. Take them out.

Use a good panel wipe to clean everything (before masking too) Dont use thinners.

Gutter trims just pull of, if yo warm them up they come off easier as the glue thats holds them on melts/softens up.

320 grit/red scotch anything you are gonna paint.

What if you take the windscreen out, is it just sealant that is used when re fitting them?

Benn
05-09-09, 07:47 PM
From the factory there shouldn't* be any, and when refitting you don't need any, the rubber holds it in. But you can use a bonda yes.


*Some do have it, but it might be dealer jobbies.

Nobby
05-09-09, 07:59 PM
as said matey id do a 320 d a all over then a 500 then a 800 and then scotchbrite all over making sure you get in all the gaps and the before paint make sure theres no dust anywhere and as said use a decent preclean!

Benn
05-09-09, 08:39 PM
Why would you 500 after 320 it? (i 320 then 800)

AlexW
05-09-09, 08:41 PM
Ive done that, makes it easyer to do the 800 imo

Benn
05-09-09, 08:47 PM
The 320 will do that...

Rexy
05-09-09, 08:47 PM
the scratches left by a 320 can be a little too harsh for some paints to cover.

The 320, 500 800 is a common one, but im not sure if this lad is doing base and clear or 2k dg.

If your doing 2kdg personally i would use 500's allround as opposed to 320's we used to use 320's on vans and if you look carefully you can see the 320 DA marks.

usual course of action for me is

80's any filler etc for repair work, 180s again said filler repair and surrounding area. 320's to feather out the 180's marks to stop it from sinking back.

Primer over 320's Obv you will use red scotch for further feathering, we use 400's to flat the primer, followed by 800's grey wet scotch to clean, dry grey scotch followed by panel wipe mask then panel wipe then paint.

Depending on the paint as said.. you can fook the 800's off you can also fook the 400's and 500's off if you want and just use a 320 and red scotch but thats only if your using 2k Direcgloss and you will need 2/3 good passes over the full car.

Oh and dont forget to blow the bugger off after scotch and before panel wipe :D

Nobby
05-09-09, 10:24 PM
Why would you 500 after 320 it? (i 320 then 800)

why not?? if hes got the time? keeps the scratches light ?

lee-loon
05-09-09, 10:52 PM
500 will be ok even under silver,red scotch under primer and grey under colour unless it's a dark colour or direct gloss/solid colour then red will be ok,

Don't waste time scotching over sanded areas only in bits that the sander can't get.

Blow the car with air to remove crap like dust,dry dirt etc before panel wipe,(door shuts,engine bay,wheel arches etc)

G-nova
05-09-09, 11:50 PM
180 full car - primer full car - flat primer with 800 - spray colour and laquer - flat laquer with 1500/2000 and G3 then G10 Jobs a good one if you KEEP EVERY THING CLEAN!!!

Curtoise
06-09-09, 01:02 AM
ok i dont get all this dk8 stuff?!? i dont even know what primer colour to use!?!? its going flame red (same as original) also i dont know how to take windows out, that link was very usefull, what paint~?!?! im guessing cellulose? gotta take doors off, dont know how to take windscreen out or rear screen AHHHHHHHH!!!!! its only next weekend aswel!!

brainsnova
06-09-09, 01:07 AM
the windows are held in with rubbers and you have to go inside and lift and push the rubbers out so they are past the metal of the shell and the windscreen is tricky for your first time. dont use a screw driver etc as this might split the glass i just use my hands :thumb:.

CP
06-09-09, 07:30 AM
I think you may need to actually go and see (or get someone round) to actually show you the basics. For a start off modern (2 pack (sp?) paints are very different to older (cellulose) paints that your dad may have used and you will need to know what sort you have. The 2 packs require fairly precise measuring containers or measuring sticks since its a chemical process where you are mixing in hardeners as well as thinners. You should also note that 2 pack paints are also poisonous so you must at the very least have the right breathing masks.


Its very time consuming and what looks easy when someone like Rexy gets at it is actually pretty tricky for a novice. The main thing is to apply more top coats than the pros would do. This will allow you the luxury of being able to mop out imperfections.

Benn
06-09-09, 08:11 AM
180 full car - primer full car - flat primer with 800 - spray colour and laquer - flat laquer with 1500/2000 and G3 then G10 Jobs a good one if you KEEP EVERY THING CLEAN!!!

No need to prime the whole car tho, asless he's doing alot of repairs.

garethcolley
06-09-09, 01:16 PM
Are you meant to rub down after the colour is applied before you spray the laquer?

Benn
06-09-09, 02:09 PM
Are you meant to rub down after the colour is applied before you spray the laquer?

No no no no no!

lee-loon
06-09-09, 02:53 PM
Not all cars have clear coat on.

DO NOT SAND THE BASE COAT BEFORE LAQUER.

Jon_nova1
06-09-09, 03:15 PM
I wouldn't laquer it being your first time to be honest.

if your using 2 pack/cellulose you won't need a laquer/clear coat unless you want extra shine (which could be alot more hassle than its worth bearing in mind you can't sand inperfections on the basecoat)

if you was using acrylic/water based, you'd need laquer/clear coat

i'd go with cellulose, used it myself, safer to use, it goes hard when exposed to air, so if you don't use it all you can just keep it sealed, while 2 pack...well, if you don't use it then it just goes hard no matter what when mixed.

you mix 50/50 paint thinner/cellulose paint, some people mix 25% paint, 75% paint thinner on the last coat to get an extra shine.

If you prime the shell, do not use acrylic/water based primer with cellulose, as the paint thinner in it will make the primer come off and run into the other coats

garethcolley
06-09-09, 04:17 PM
No no no no no!

lol ok, im going to spray some bumpers up this week. Ive just rubbed them down and going to primer them. Im painting in 2PK black, are there specific primers available for 2PK? Also, now ive rubbed the bumpers back you can see exposed plastic, should i be looking at using a plastic primer or just standard? Sorry to hijack the thread!!!

lee-loon
06-09-09, 04:34 PM
Yes a plastic primer,adhesion promoter will do if it's only a few rub through bits.

twistysnovagte
06-09-09, 05:24 PM
while were on the subject of spraying!,
What pressure(psi)do you have your compressor set at when spraying?
Also what is the paint mixture when mixing with thinners etc(how much to how much?)
And do panels that are still in paint just need a rub down with 800wet/dry
and wiped clean ready for new paint?(would this also apply to new panels that are still in black primer?)


these answer's may also be handy/useful for curtoise!

Nobby
06-09-09, 05:28 PM
Right the rear windows will need poping out the way i do it is very lightly jam a screwdriverup the side from the inside and then pres with your palms gently and it will pop out should be the same for the rest of the windows. I would use celly its cheap and will dry overnight or a couple of days if the place your using its not damp.

Curtoise
06-09-09, 11:54 PM
ok i have been advised to use 2pck as its red and will fade with cell??!?!? im soooo confused! and duno wat to do lol

Curtoise
07-09-09, 01:08 AM
also does anybody know roughly how much paint is gonna cost me with thinners for the whole car?

lee-loon
07-09-09, 06:26 AM
Nick j is selling red 2pack in Ferrari red,made by ICI the best paint money can buy. £100 for 3 ltrs.(this paint is about £100 per ltr to buy) then all you need is hardener and thinner.

16v Nova Kev
07-09-09, 10:07 AM
Nick j is selling red 2pack in Ferrari red,made by ICI the best paint money can buy. £100 for 3 ltrs.(this paint is about £100 per ltr to buy) then all you need is hardener and thinner.

buy that it seems a good price. but if you dont prep the car properly you would be better rolling up 100quid and smoking it :thumb:

Curtoise
07-09-09, 01:23 PM
hmm, that would be fun, so paint is very very very very very very expencive then :O ferrari red would be cool, buuuuuut i cant use 2pakc?! and ferrari red would be differnt to the inside of mine ?!

16v Nova Kev
07-09-09, 01:39 PM
hokay. well find out your colour code. its on your tag on your slam pannel and order that. 2litres should be enough by the time you put hardener and thinner in. why cant you use 2pak

Curtoise
07-09-09, 04:47 PM
because of the fumes and itsnt it harder?

lee-loon
07-09-09, 05:40 PM
Easyer than. Celly.instant shine,less messing around

16v Nova Kev
07-09-09, 07:05 PM
im amazed nobody has said anything about dust and shizzle in the garage your going to spray the car in. i.e silicones in the air/is the roof sheeted stuff like that

lee-loon
07-09-09, 07:15 PM
I've painted lots of cars in a garage,as long as you get you base coat clean you are laughing,

Solid red direct gloss is easy.

If you empty your garage and clean it the day before painting it will be fine,use plenty of water on the Walls and floor to keep the dust from blowing around.

Rexy
07-09-09, 07:15 PM
tbh kev, Its another one of those posts mate... everybody asks the same sorta thing, gets a load of info from loads of different people which confuses the hell out of people and then meh. I bet hte poor lads heads going around in circles lol.


i said it to asa james, and i'll say it to you. people can give as much advice and be as helpful but with paint there are far too many things to go wrong.

If your serious about doing this consider saving up and getting a pro or at least somebody with a booth to paint it. Painted cars with moisture in the air/airline will really make you cry. Just have a good think about the cost involved in doing it yourself, and the cost of what somebody with a booth would charge. remeber your stripping the car fully for them, so they only need a prep and paint. again, you build it up and you can flat and polish it if needed.

Rexy
07-09-09, 07:16 PM
lee, you wansnt anything to do with that corsa which was parked next to my scooby at trax was you lol.

lee-loon
07-09-09, 07:19 PM
No mate, never been trax

Was it bad?

Just to ad, I'm no back street painter!

Rexy
07-09-09, 07:28 PM
lovley mate... pmsl. I wana know whos it was and why a half decent car looked like that.

16v Nova Kev
07-09-09, 08:20 PM
tbh kev, Its another one of those posts mate... everybody asks the same sorta thing, gets a load of info from loads of different people which confuses the hell out of people and then meh. I bet hte poor lads heads going around in circles lol.


i said it to asa james, and i'll say it to you. people can give as much advice and be as helpful but with paint there are far too many things to go wrong.

If your serious about doing this consider saving up and getting a pro or at least somebody with a booth to paint it. Painted cars with moisture in the air/airline will really make you cry. Just have a good think about the cost involved in doing it yourself, and the cost of what somebody with a booth would charge. remeber your stripping the car fully for them, so they only need a prep and paint. again, you build it up and you can flat and polish it if needed.

amen brother :thumb:

lee-loon
07-09-09, 08:21 PM
Let's see some pics then!

Rexy
07-09-09, 08:35 PM
of what? i didnt get any of the corsa, tbh nothing at trax made me want to take a pic lol.

Lets say, rattle can snotters are king of the snotter

Curtoise
07-09-09, 10:46 PM
right, but how much would it cost to get a pro to do it, and weve got a dry clean unit in it, but the inly thing in the air is solvent lol

Curtoise
07-09-09, 11:46 PM
might go black now as red seems a tonne of hastle !!! and will fade in a year anyway, plus black i guess would be moor forgiving

Curtoise
07-09-09, 11:47 PM
pics of black novas please !!! plus i think red looks best on a mk1

16v Nova Kev
07-09-09, 11:58 PM
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg8/16vnovakev/SDC11500.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg8/16vnovakev/SDC11499.jpg
i painted the wings/bonet/boot with rattle cans

Curtoise
08-09-09, 12:00 AM
yeh what wheels are they i think i have the same lol!! and i do like it, my insurance wont tho

Curtoise
08-09-09, 12:01 AM
yeh deffo gonna stay red, my insurance just raped my bum hole with a quote. meh red with black bumpers and black gsi skirts should look kk

16v Nova Kev
08-09-09, 12:09 AM
yeh what wheels are they i think i have the same lol!! and i do like it, my insurance wont tho

oz saturn i painted them too lol

Curtoise
08-09-09, 12:11 AM
LOLOLOLOLOL yeh there the same, want another set ?? lol. annnnnnnd cheerz 4 ur help, still got a dialemer what to remove, what paint to use/ what restrictions are there on 2pck for spray guns and stuff?

Jon_nova1
08-09-09, 12:17 AM
no restrictions on 2 pack, apart from the hazard side of things, some equipment doesn't like cellulose (it will state this)

paint isn't really that expensive, bare in mind it will be diluted by around half (unsure with 2 pack)

remove windows, handles, locks, bump strips, engine if your doing the bay, wheels, gutter covering, ariel, lights, panels can also be removed and sprayed seperately if wanted, don't forget to cover things you don't want spraying, or spray overlap to go on (ie, the interior) even spray mist can settle on things like seats even if your not spraying too close

Curtoise
08-09-09, 01:07 AM
ok thanks for the help mate, does anybody know much about 2pck ??

G-nova
08-09-09, 02:37 AM
what do you want to know?
if you buy a 2k paint (2pack) you can get the TDS (technical data sheet) for that exact paint (recommended) as it tell you every thing you need to know on how to use the product. ie how and what to mix it with, drying times, viscosity (how thick/thin it needs to be) how many coats you need, what pressure to spray at, fluid tip needed to spray and flash off times (time between coats) even someone that has been spraying for a long time will use a TDS if they are using a new product or unsure on something like i said it is recommended.

AlexW
08-09-09, 11:02 AM
Curt you realise colours dont fade if there polished lol.

Oh and i forgot to say last night, black would have been much worse, black shows up all the little inperfections.

Curtoise
08-09-09, 12:26 PM
ok gayer! i font know what to use, i have pmd nick about that paint but am awaiting reply as yet, come tomorrow i think im going to have to go down to some spray shops

Curtoise
09-09-09, 12:09 AM
hi can someone walk me through the steps to prep the car, eg wash, sand, be it i will be driving it small distances with it half rubbed down and bare metal in primer, ready for final touch ups and spray come the weekend !

G-nova
09-09-09, 12:42 AM
lol this gonna make it all the more work, you need to do it all at same time really imo. wipe car down with a panel wipe to remove any polish waxes etc then you need to flat whole of car with 180 so that the shine from laquer or polished paint goes completly dull so if you come across any low shiny spots keep flatting untill completly dull and it dosenty matter about going through anywhere. if you go through to bare metal in places you should use an etch primer on them places before any high build. any chips in paint need to be flattened out any imperfections at all. so you end up with a smooth finish no sharp edges etc. then you need to wash car and completly dry - air blow gun is good to remove unwanted water in seams etc. (hair dryer also good) then you need to use panel wipe every where again and dont touch car without clean gloves as grease from hands will ruin finish. where you are spraying needs to be clean as a whistle wet the floor to reduce any dust etc. spray etch on any bare metal 1 coat will be enuf. then you dont need to let it dry you can spray your high build straight on between 2 - 3 coats leaving a flash off time between each coat. when this is dry you can give any repaired areas a guide coat darker that the primer used. then flat high build down with rubbing block and p800 untill completly smooth ie no high or low spots, low spots will show as not being flatted with the guide coat still showing if you go through any where you will need to repeat what you just did. when flatted down and you havent gone through anywhere you can give it a clean with panel wipe and spray your colour on (follow tds). after it is dry you can laquer it giving it a few good coats when this is completly dry flat it till dull with no low spots or shiny spots left with 1200-2000 wet and use g3 and finish with g10 both using a polisher and correct mop.

Curtoise
09-09-09, 12:55 AM
but im using 2pack so theres no need for laquer?

G-nova
09-09-09, 01:03 AM
no you got it wrong way round you need it for 2k (2pack) and not for cellulose.

Curtoise
09-09-09, 01:27 AM
reli, are you sure your not wrong? i have read many places that 2k dosnt need laqure

Curtoise
09-09-09, 01:27 AM
plus wat are the advantages and disadvantages to 2k and cell!?!?

G-nova
09-09-09, 01:45 AM
depends if its a matalic or prearl then you need laquer

Curtoise
09-09-09, 02:19 AM
its gloss

G-nova
09-09-09, 03:00 AM
its not gloss as thats oil based but i know what you mean solid colour dosent need laquer it wont fade as fast as you think as you need to polish it and a decent silicon free wax about every 3 months will keep it looking fresh dont use car washes but keep it clean and away from trees and birds etc and it should last a long time.

Benn
09-09-09, 08:11 AM
I'd still use 2k, you can still get direct gloss in 2pack, that doesn't need lacquering. But base and clear (says it in the name) does.

Curtoise
13-09-09, 08:36 PM
right as we speak i am in the middle of spraying :) its going well, just got the last coat of primer on, and flatted it! now ready for red !! here goes nothing

Benn
13-09-09, 08:36 PM
Good man, get the pics taken!

Curtoise
13-09-09, 08:38 PM
i am, will upload when is done, isnt going to be the best but more of a practice !! brb

moffat
13-09-09, 08:42 PM
heres a pic of my car, was painted outside,

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg228/moffat_photos/IMAG0069-2.jpg

greg1.4
13-09-09, 11:02 PM
here is mine, painted in a barn. still to be flattened and polished -

http://i549.photobucket.com/albums/ii398/Vauxuki/blacknovaartyfartypics045.jpg

Curtoise
13-09-09, 11:47 PM
that black one looks leet, you must of been a mega pro, the main problem i had was with particles in the air! they landed everywhere, we dampened down aswell, only had about 3 drips that can be sanded off at a later date. and some imperfection orange peel ect, overall i am hugely happy with the resuly and how it went for my first try. uploading pics

Rexy
14-09-09, 08:50 AM
heres mine painted in a booth :P

Suckers!

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/Rexy_nova/P1020865.jpg

good luck with it matey, i hope it turns out ok. Take your time with the coats, a dry finish will be easier than going for glory and trying to flat a run.

Curtoise
14-09-09, 11:39 PM
i forgot to say a bif thanks for all you guys for helping and advising me, you will be repped Thank you

16v Nova Kev
15-09-09, 07:57 PM
good luck hope it turns out good