Joining wires

[cunit]

I need to join a few thin permenant live wires to a thick 20mm2 wire that comes from the battery, what is the best and safest way to do it?

[Stuart]

GOOD (not halfords specials) crimp connectors with ring fittings, then bolt to the battery connector as the thick one is.

Some will say solder, but OEM dont use it so I wont :)

[Benn]

Some will say solder, but OEM dont use it so I wont :)

Thats only cause its not as fast... Plus everything that do is in one lengh..

[Stuart]

on a production level, solder would/can be faster..... but its a piss poor way to do it unless you spend a fortune on other stuff like stress relieving everything and routing stuff differently etc

[Jon_nova1]

Not sure on the circumstances, but i'd opt for crimping the permanent lives to a live of similar size

[Benn]

on a production level, solder would/can be faster..... but its a piss poor way to do it unless you spend a fortune on other stuff like stress relieving everything and routing stuff differently etc

You think so? Would think it would be slower, as you'd need to cover the join and such. Why stress relieving?

[Stuart]

make a nice flexible stranded cable solid with solder and whats going to happen where the solid part meets the flexible part?

[Novasport]

Solder and heat shrink is perfectly acceptable IMO. I work for BMW and its what they state to do when fitting accessories.
Non insulated crimp terminals are also good if the correct crimping tool is used.
Try here for bits...

www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk (http://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk)

I used to work here, they are good.

[Novasport]

make a nice flexible stranded cable solid with solder and whats going to happen where the solid part meets the flexible part?

If the joint is heatshrinked then the loom correctly wrapped with non-adhesive loom tape there should not be a problem. Most looms do not flex unless they are in a position like on a hinge, if that is the case you would move the join.
Terminals can also break the wire if movement is allowed so I see no benefit in using this method.

[Lee]

Go to a car audio shop and buy a connection block. Its basically a big copper chocky block so you will be able to screw down the large 12v cable in one end and your small ones in the other. Insulate it with tape / heatshrink and you're done.

[Stuart]

If the joint is heatshrinked then the loom correctly wrapped with non-adhesive loom tape there should not be a problem. Most looms do not flex unless they are in a position like on a hinge, if that is the case you would move the join.
Terminals can also break the wire if movement is allowed so I see no benefit in using this method.


exactly, lots of faff and stress relieving to make the join last :d

good crimp tools and good crimps are key as you say. VWP are the nuts, been using them since 2001ish when we spotted the ad in the back of motorsport news at uni :d

[Novasport]

These are some of the connectors I use

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/NovaSport/CIMG0476.jpg

Stocked up befor I left ;)

[cunit]

Go to a car audio shop and buy a connection block. Its basically a big copper chocky block so you will be able to screw down the large 12v cable in one end and your small ones in the other. Insulate it with tape / heatshrink and you're done.

ok might go for this option as the battery is in the boot and i don't want to run more wires to it or the junction box. Cheers :thumb:

[Ernie]

I solder as much as poss ats its a much better and cleaner finish.
I do a lot of rc car racing so had lots of practice.
Ive got the propper crimpimg tools and only use for bits i will need to tack of with ease.

[mayhem]

ok might go for this option as the battery is in the boot and i don't want to run more wires to it or the junction box. Cheers :thumb:

i did that too.

one main wire from the battery to the engine bay, with a connection block in the bay. i have a block with 4 outputs, but the had 6 aswell