Can you help with 1.6 turbo questions?

[Steveocee]

Hi there, im new to the forum but have been searching for a few weeks now.

I have a c16se in my garage all stripped down and ready for building back up, i have a few questions though about parts im thinking of using?

Firstly is cams, theres a company who do regrinds for £120, i was wondering if its worth getting a fast road profile? But ive read that on turbo applications you should leave the cam standard and let the turbo do the work.

Headgasket, everywhere ive been has a standard width one, even if i tell them the head has been skimmed, i dont want to be pikey but ive heard you can double up the headgasket? Is this really wrong or does it work? I've tried sourcing a TLS one but no luck :(

Will be using a Garrett T15 turbo and custom manifold made up from the standard one.

[Steveocee]

I have searched and didnt find the answers i wanted :(

[Stuart]

imho leave the cam as is, try it and if you find its holding you back then opt for a regrind (although I'd go for an all out custom grind from cat cams/newman)

Is the bottom end standard?

Are you doing it on a budget?

[Steveocee]

Bottom end is being left standard at the moment, havent read anything of upgrading it yet, engine isnt going for mega power, hoping really to get to about the 130bhp marker.

On a mega budget build as well, so far the engine stands me at £140 with a load of bits like plugs, filters, cam belt, gasket set. Its going to be a real budget track car build but with a twist :)

[Stuart]

if you are only going after 130bhp, then I'd stick with STD compression, run a mediumish FMIC. Should be ok with that setup.

You may even find that with the T15 you could skip the FMIC completely (what is it off by the way?? )

[burgo]

if you only want 130bhp why bother with a turbo at all??

[Steveocee]

if you are only going after 130bhp, then I'd stick with STD compression, run a mediumish FMIC. Should be ok with that setup.

You may even find that with the T15 you could skip the FMIC completely (what is it off by the way?? )

Took the T15 off of a vectra diesel in the local scrappy, got a really good price on it aswell :) I think it was either a Y20DTH or X20DTL. If it wont be a problem running standard compression at 130 i may push it a little more with a bigger FMIC, i'm trying to get it into redtop kind of territory but the car is stripped out so i was thinking that P2W it would be as quick.


if you only want 130bhp why bother with a turbo at all??
Because i didnt think without MAJOR work you could get 30 bhp from a N/A engine?

[burgo]

a diesel turbo will melt on a petrol

and 130bhp n/a is fairly easy. twin 40's/bike carbs, cam, head work and a 4 branch should see you there. maybe some arps to be safe

[Steveocee]

a diesel turbo will melt on a petrol

and 130bhp n/a is fairly easy. twin 40's/bike carbs, cam, head work and a 4 branch should see you there. maybe some arps to be safe

Why would it melt? :eek:

And its ok saying twin 40's cam , head work 4 branch etc.. but the turbo only cost £20 and the manifold wont cast hardly anything to make. The above will cost quite a bit.

[burgo]

what are you doing about the extra fueling you need with a turbo tho??

and because diesels run much cooler than petrols and therefore the turbos are designed with that in mind.

bike carbs are £100
cam £100
4 branch £100
and headwork depends on who does it and to what spec. but should be able to get it done for a couple of hundred

[Steveocee]

what are you doing about the extra fueling you need with a turbo tho??

and because diesels run much cooler than petrols and therefore the turbos are designed with that in mind.

bike carbs are £100
cam £100
4 branch £100
and headwork depends on who does it and to what spec. but should be able to get it done for a couple of hundred

Extra fueling was going to use an adjustable fuel pressure reg, run it a little high so on boost it has enough, will just have a lumpy-ass idle and overfuel a little.
With regards to temperature, may have to address it a little more, maybe fit a bigger FMIC or something similar, (that should keep the temperature down abit more) added to an oil cooler of some description i would hope that should hope.

Also bear in mind that i'm not going for mega power so yeah i can understand that in that kind if scenario maybe a derv turbo would not stand up to it.

Couple of hundred quid for for those parts, as said already though, engine stands me at about £140 and turbo at £20 :lol: Not economically viable to go spending bucks like that.

[Stuart]

WRT the temperature that melts a DERV spec turbo, its the exhaust gas temps that do it ;) not the inlet temps

[Steveocee]

Bugger :(

[burgo]

Extra fueling was going to use an adjustable fuel pressure reg,

your a braver man than me

[craig green]

Ditch the £20 turbo & keep going IMO.

Buy a Rover T25 cheap off the bay, the main expense is going to be the manifold tbh. Same exhaust flanges as a Nissan 200sx, so the pipe is readily available to craft a downpipe.

Get a template copied of your headgasket & have it laser cut in stainless, 3mm/3.55 thick. 140/150 bhp & torque of above that is easily achievable.

Ideal cam would prolly be the std item, reground with less overlap. I ran a piper & GM cams in my turbo'd 1600 & found the std one revier.