View Full Version : shed weight or keep because of possible function????
Need a bit of advise on this. wish i new how to post a poll, it would be handy now anyway..... As pictured below is my rear strut brace. Its the type that bolts between both strut tops keeping the parrellel. Do these actually work improving rear suspension operation, bearing in mind there is a full 6 point cage in their aswell as stitch welding.
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/5783/img0493u.jpg
(sorry for the poor quality pick btw )
I'm also thinking about the rear beam on a Nova. As its fixed, how can the rear struts NOT be parrellel?
Shall I ditch it and save some more weight?:confused:
cheers
ste
Is it not more to do with flex in the rear strut tops?
Anyways... I'd say your cage has the job covered.
Id say you cage would do the trick on its own
thats what I was thinking guys. Maby a bit off overkill having a rear strut brace aswell.
ste
Id say ditch it for a brace between the turrets.
you think thats gonna be nessesary as it has a cross brace in the cage?
ste
mikey14sr
11-06-09, 09:09 AM
That type do nothing other than keep the tops of the dampers a set distance apart, which are rubber mounted and meant to move a bit.
To gain any sort of extra rigidity from a rear strut brace you want one that's mounted to the body, not the dampers, like this one,
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v689/mickyd79/bottle2a.jpg
Although that cage (if solidly mounted to the rear arches) and having the back end stitch welded will be enough strength.
Its worth not ditching too much back end weight as it can cause the car to skip round corners or nosedive while passing over arge bumps in the road. Just speakig to a chap that deals with me about his Corsa Rally Car, he carrys 2 spares in the boot to weigh it down.
if you get decent suspension it doesnt at all dod. look how much stripped some of the track boys cars are yet the back end never lets go.
i say ditch that brace but weld in a proper one
I'd always imagine that'd have a lot to do with the Tryes though Burgo. At the end of the day if the car is heavier at the front than the back it will nosedive over jumps. Cornering on the other hand couls be combatted though.
theres not all that many jumps on tracks ive seen tho. assuming that is a track car anyway, it looks like one
The fact the back end never lets go is more to do with driver skill than setup imo, the back end will be ridiculously light on most track novas and most drivers increase this even more with harder springs to dial in the oversteer that FWD tries to oppose. Off road is a different ball game, due to massively decreased grip and I wouldn't be surprised if most WRC cars were above the minimum weights imposed on them, or running slimmer tyres than you'd expect.
Nosediving has nothing to do with weight though, and everything to do with spring setup! put a hammer and a feather in the same box and see what hits the ground first :p Your rallying friend probably has spares in the boot to stop it nosediving with harder springs on due to having too much understeer on an 'equal' spring setup.
So whats the best way to combat nosediving on launch? Sorry for Hijacking but if needs be I'll start a new thread.
This is how i run mine.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/chunny01/JDL%20Project/190120091351.jpg
On track i remove the spare wheel/jack and it handles ok.
I do have a battery in the boot to keep the back end down tho.
So whats the best way to combat nosediving on launch? Sorry for Hijacking but if needs be I'll start a new thread.
You mean over jumps? Depends if it's bottoming out or not... This is taken from off road remote control but the principles are the same lol If it's bottoming out you want harder springs or a higher ride height obviously, any small amount of tilting is controlled with the throttle/brakes but i'm sure this has less effect on a full size car due to the proportion of the weight between the wheels/car. If it's particularly bad and worth changing your setup over you can have softer/harder springs. For speed bump style things you want a softer rear to stop it nosediving, for full size 'jumps' as in both wheels on the incline at the same time, it will depend on the jump, some will kick the back end up but if it's happening constantly you can try either softer or harder springs, from what I can think through in my head, softer on the back will stop it following the jump as closely and therefore stop the back end kicking up. More weight in the back obviously has the same effect.
If you mean launch as in off the line, anti squat on rear wishbones keeps it more level, but theres no way of replicating this effect on a beam afaik. You can incline the front tie bar etc (which is effectively a single wishbone as far as the dynamics are concerned here I believe) but it would make the nose dive like a bastid on braking.
edit: First paragraph was a bit wrong.
scott.parker
11-06-09, 03:53 PM
The rear brace attached to the shocks is purely for show, it will do next to nothing for performance, so take it off and sell it to some chav on ebay i say.
The cage has it braced nicely from what i see.
Scott
I always try to run a bit of ballast in the back if its a big block track car. Helps things along nicely. If anything it promotes a tad more oversteer than it does reduce it.
I had my full size Nova battery right over the back, and my rear strut brace was a bar of solid steel lol. I never had it handling better than that before I put them in either.
dj_wudgey
11-06-09, 06:53 PM
id also say ditch it dude cage will do just fine!!
I always try to run a bit of ballast in the back if its a big block track car. Helps things along nicely. If anything it promotes a tad more oversteer than it does reduce it.
I had my full size Nova battery right over the back, and my rear strut brace was a bar of solid steel lol. I never had it handling better than that before I put them in either.
All depends on driving style, in theory it should give you more traction, but if you chuck it in like a proper lunatic it's gonna try and take a gravel dive lol
Yes I am, and yes it does :)
I hear the pistons try and take a gravel dive too lol
Stop being a pussy an weld one in. Yes your cage has got your back anyway but who cares anyway, more the merrier.
You mean over jumps? Depends if it's bottoming out or not... This is taken from off road remote control but the principles are the same lol If it's bottoming out you want harder springs or a higher ride height obviously, any small amount of tilting is controlled with the throttle/brakes but i'm sure this has less effect on a full size car due to the proportion of the weight between the wheels/car. If it's particularly bad and worth changing your setup over you can have softer/harder springs. For speed bump style things you want a softer rear to stop it nosediving, for full size 'jumps' as in both wheels on the incline at the same time, it will depend on the jump, some will kick the back end up but if it's happening constantly you can try either softer or harder springs, from what I can think through in my head, softer on the back will stop it following the jump as closely and therefore stop the back end kicking up. More weight in the back obviously has the same effect.
If you mean launch as in off the line, anti squat on rear wishbones keeps it more level, but theres no way of replicating this effect on a beam afaik. You can incline the front tie bar etc (which is effectively a single wishbone as far as the dynamics are concerned here I believe) but it would make the nose dive like a bastid on braking.
edit: First paragraph was a bit wrong.
Someone Rep Mike Please, I cant. :(
Someone Rep Mike Please, I cant. :(done :thumb:
Someone Rep Mike Please, I cant. :(
When you quote my post and say Mike you mean? lol I got rep anyway though!
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