View Full Version : C20XE Started For The First Time - 1 Problem... HELP!! lol
ST-eater
15-04-09, 08:59 PM
HI all, managed to get my 2 week project up and running today, and its had a few teething problems... Ive took my time doing the work to make sure everything was in correct, welded properly, using the correct fuel lines, soldering etc and adjusting the odds and ends....
Anyhow.... Today was the day to turn her over.... which after a few turns of the key, it fired up and ran like a dream..... We turned her off to sort out an earth on the nova loom we hadnt fitted, as when we tried turning the heaters on to bleed the air out the system, it didnt work and turned on the indicators on instead haha. Anyway with that sorted we tried to start her up again.... the car refused to start....
We checked for air in the rail by releasing the valve on the fuel rail, and tried again... 6 or so more cranks over and she fired up fine and ran with no problems.....
Once again the car was turned off, and refused to start.......
Basically the car will start after a stupid amount of turns, usually over 10 turns, and then runs sweet as a nut, revs fine and idles brill.
When trying to crank the car, it cranks fine, the fuel is there in the rail (and you can smell it at the rear), and the battery is well over 12v....
Does anyone know what the hell it could be, really annoying as when it runs it runs great!!
I have replaced the dist cap with a newer one, and a new rotor arm.. yet it still has the problem...
The donor wasn't a 1.0 was it? and you've wired up the old coil wiring to your xe coil?
ST-eater
15-04-09, 09:43 PM
The donor wasn't a 1.0 was it? and you've wired up the old coil wiring to your xe coil?
No. The donor was a 1.2 carb with an old coil, but the wiring wasnt used as the xe has the wiring on it in the form of a block connector and just plugs in.
I was thinking tha maybe the amplifier thing on the coil is a bit dodgy, but wasnt sure, and dont want to go around replacing things without knowing what the problem is...
ST-eater
15-04-09, 09:52 PM
On a quick note, i cant hear any fuel pump relay clicking noises, and i cant hear the fuel pump, but by the pressure in the rail (when pressing the bit on the rail to release) it all seems to be working...
Also the car needs a new thermostat as the engine was running very hot, but the gauge shows next to nothing and the thing doesnt seem to open, instead i have water shooting up towards the bonnet lol.
And finally the connection on the thermostat housing (like a bolt with a connection on the end) has been soldered as there was nothing to connect the wires onto... could this be the coolant temperature sensor? (its next to the double pinned blue connection, and connects by the looks of it with a spade connector).
As upon searching it looks like the CTS can have an effect on starting... dont really know how it does tho :S
ST-eater
15-04-09, 09:53 PM
Dizzy and seperate coil thing....
The coolant temp sensor, lets the ecu know the temp of the coolant, ie if it's cold, the ecu overfuels slightly till it's warm. I'd try one of those first. have you done the paperclip test for fault codes?
The fuel pump relay will only "buzz" Upon cranking iirc.
ST-eater
15-04-09, 10:05 PM
Havent tried the paperclip test, could you tell me how to do it?
Southie
15-04-09, 10:13 PM
Havent tried the paperclip test, could you tell me how to do it?
Search for topbuzz on google matey :)
ST-eater
15-04-09, 10:20 PM
found it, but the paperclip thing looks to only work on ABS? or will it work for all the ecu codes?
ST-eater
15-04-09, 10:35 PM
Going to give the coolant temp sensor a go tomorrow, se if replacing it helps.. If not il give the paper clip thing a go and see if there are any flashes lol.. thanks for your replies all :)
Southie
15-04-09, 10:40 PM
found it, but the paperclip thing looks to only work on ABS? or will it work for all the ecu codes?
It's got all the ecu codes but it's a matter of having a good look around the site as the search option is knackered lol
Good luck :thumb:
lol topbuzz is knackered full stop. i had this before and it was the relay. usually is tbh
buy a genuine coolant temp sender (single pin -guage), should be less than a tenner from your vauxhall dealer.
if you havent wired the EML light up yet it should be wired like this
Brown/yellow - earth this to show fault codes (or wire to earth with a switch in between for easy diagnostics)
Brown/Blue Join this to 1 wire of the EML then the other wire from the EML goes to a switched +12v.
could be the Crank sensor.
i have a crank sensor and fuel pump relay here if you have no luck with the above.
remember most XE's will show code 31 for the crank sensor even if its fine, it brings this up as the ecu is not getting a signal from it as the engine is not running.
novaguy08
16-04-09, 07:36 AM
will work for most it flashes the EML
ST-eater
16-04-09, 05:34 PM
Ive replaced the fuel pump relay today as i had one on another loom, and replaced the thermostat, temp sender and the temp switch with still no joy. We tried the spark, and its very weak... we then tried a spark from the coil itself on a single lead, but its stopped working. So now we are getting no spark. There is 12v and earths at the coil connections in the engine loom so i cant see the wiring being at fault, and also the car has actually run and ran fine, which would suggest that the crank sensor was alright. But now there is no spark im guessing its a fault with the coil or the amp... ive ran an ohm meter across the coil connections, and it reads an open circuit... which i thought was wrong, although not entirely sure... (0.000Ohms) Any ideas?
ST-eater
16-04-09, 05:38 PM
could be the Crank sensor.
i have a crank sensor and fuel pump relay here if you have no luck with the above.
Is there any way to test the crank sensor? If it is that at fault then how much you looking for yours? Fuel pump relay im okay for as i have two and by the looks of it that works, its just the spark now... it was very weak, but has now died completely.
Also we wired the EML to the choke light so i assume its just a case of connecting the two pins together on the loom to get the light to flash out the problems?
ST-eater
16-04-09, 06:45 PM
Right after working out the damn meter, within the starter coil i can measure 7.2 ohm across the secondary coil which is in value with the haynes manual which is fine(7.2-8.2ohm) , yet the primary winding should be 0.2 to 0.34 ohms yet i am getting 0.1 ohm if im lucky, and 0.00 ohms most of the time, so i guess this is causing the problem. Is there any way of checking the electrical thing thats bolted onto the bracket?
ST-eater
16-04-09, 07:26 PM
Ive tested my crank sensor with an LED as so, and it flashes so i assume that the crank sensor is sending signals as it should be
Pic2 = C20 XE Motronic 2.5 HES (or cmp sensor) multiplug.
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc137/andy20008/c20xecmpm25.jpg
For the Motronic M2.5 Probe terminals 2 & 3 with LED test light,crank the engine and check that light flashes.
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