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View Full Version : *HOW TO* Weld in Rear Brace



Mike
21-02-09, 12:30 AM
How to: Weld in Rear Brace.


A weld in rear brace is a much more efficient way of structually supporting/reducing chassis flex to the rear of any vehicle.

As detailed in the thread title, here's my "How To" with regards to doing this.

What you'll need:

MiG welder - Pref 100a minimum, IMHO DONT use a non-gas item as there sheet.
Suitable diamter/wall thickness tube - I used 38mm seamless, 3mm thick wall type. You will NOT need anymore then 1meter (1000mm) & dont be fooled into thinking a lesser 1mm wall tube will help, it wont. Get some hefty stuff at least!
Wire brush (maybe)
Welding mask (dont be tempted to close your eyes & hope for good results, in reality it never happens)

*Disclaimer: This is a How To guide ONLY. If your's end up coming out carp then its your own problem. I nor PNG or any of its affiliates accept NO repsonsibility to any eventual outcome of your welding skills and/or metal working abilitys. You will be carrying out this modification at your own risk. Do not complain to me if it goes tits up, this is my advice only. Using inferior/unsuitable/copper pipe to make a rear brace will result in majorleague ownage if used as a harness bar, nobody wants a windscreen in there face TBH really do they.

Now the boring bits over, lets get started.

Step one:

Get your steel tube cut to length @ 928mm or there abouts (definetly NO smaller though!) Anywhere between 928 & 930mm should ensure a nice snug fit between both inner archs (you may to tap it in with a hammer so it wedges itself).

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j181/mikenova/TWOC%20Rebuild/323.jpg

DO NOT use a Spirit level to get it level, as 99% the vehicle will not be parked on a garanteed level surface.

As you look at the inner archs, you want the brace inline with both shock absorber top mounts (take note where mine is) & the height is approx 135mm from floorpan.

Tak it in - Get the welder on the go, if using 3mm thick steel tube, gas mark 6 with a wire speed of 6.5 to 7 should see ample results. Bang a tak at either end, then measure it up against sizes quoted above.

Once happy, large it up with the welder.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j181/mikenova/TWOC%20Rebuild/324.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j181/mikenova/TWOC%20Rebuild/325.jpg

As you can see above, results after using aforementiond wire speed/gas mark combined with a Proffesional Auto Darkening Welders mask. If your welds resemble birdshizzle, then learn how to weld properly & then come & consult this article. If you, like me, have nice flat, nearly even weld's then bothered.

Note: Welders start fires. Ensure the waxoyl/underseal/tar substance you painted in your wheel archs 10 summers ago hasnt caught fire :thumb:

Job done.

Or is it? Well no, fresh welds & untreated metal corrod instantly with moisture in the air. Coat it up with suitable primer (Etch/Zinc/Normal grey carp).

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j181/mikenova/TWOC%20Rebuild/326.jpg

Finished. Your now free to carry on with your life safe in the knowledge you can ebay your old bolt in strutbrace for about £25.

Whilst you here, Heres (http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1112293#post1112293) another little HOW TO on Welding in Roll Cage Spreader Plates.

Happy welding

Mike.

~~joycey~~
21-02-09, 04:47 AM
Thats great stuff i think i'll have a go at that :)

+Rep

let_nova
21-02-09, 03:31 PM
is the bolt on one as good as this? not the one that goes into the shock but the same place as this one?

Adam
21-02-09, 04:54 PM
Just bolted wont be as good, but if you then seam around the bolt plates it'll be sound...

Top guide Mike, and hell yeah underseal burns easily lol lol

that farmer
19-09-09, 09:45 AM
good effort mike did you plate the strut tops first or just add the strengthening bar as i cant see clearly in the pics! bad eye sight due to much no mask welding!

Mike
19-09-09, 04:57 PM
I didnt bother plating the rear turrets prior to welding the brace in.

The reason I didnt is the rear turrets are triple skinned, thus 3mm thick. Adding plates would create more work for no reason & also add around 0.5kg per side sprung weight directly ontop off the rear shock absorbers. Again, now wanted or needed.

that farmer
19-09-09, 06:06 PM
ah ok cool, i was gonna plate it on myn using a bit of 3mm plate round the strut probly still will tbh!

matt_vaughan
18-09-10, 07:02 PM
Mike thats a good point on the plating. Was going to plate on mine until i read your post above. Cheers for the guide anyway, its a relatively obvious one but always good to see how someone else has done a job.

Just to ask, did you feel any noticable difference in rear twisting and stiffness?

Iain
21-09-10, 09:01 PM
I still think some spreader plates are a good idea. Feel much safer wrapping my harnesses around it with some decent plates either side spreading the load.

I didn't weld mine in, Tom Reid did off here, but he did a top job of it IMO.

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP/48.JPG

AlanH
06-12-10, 08:18 PM
+rep, top guide! some pics of mine
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii227/alanhughes87/wirb2.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii227/alanhughes87/novawirb2.jpg