heaters blowing cold only???

[gouch]

as above please guys...on my 1.2 luxe,ive been told its more than likely the thermostat...could somebody please confirm this? and tell me the location in the engine bay so i can replace it? my mechanical ability is okay but im new to these cars....
thanks in advance:)

[craig green]

I would check the cable from the heater control o the dash to the flap above the matrix (inner rad) is actually moving the flap & sending heat from the matrix into the dash ducting, secondly check the matrix isnt leaking coolant into the car or that its entirely blocked. Then maybe check the thermostst.

What car/engine is it?

Has the heating suddenly stopped being warm/hot?

[gouch]

thanks for the reply.. its a nova luxe 1.2 i.. its happend quite recently, but its not heating up at all now, ill go and check the cable is moving the flap in the matrix, i havent noticed any leaking inside the car of yet. :)

[2lbill]

what does the temp gauge sit at mate.

[taylor 2008]

what does the temp gauge sit at mate.

mine is doin this today exactly the same its bloweing cold air, you have to leave the car running for half and hr or so so then the guage moves up then blowes warm air, but when driveing the guage doesnt move stop's on cold, and blowes cold air, brought a new thermostate for it that should sove the problem dont you think????:thumb:

[gouch]

right just been out to have a nosey at the cables...the left hand ones (hot to cold selector) broke on the clip,got my hand up and moved the flap manually so i can have it on warm only for now (all thats needed at the mo with this weather)
my mate tells me they've a habit of breaking at the clips when you try remove them from another car (if i went to the scrappy for one) so can i still get one from vauxhall?? are they reasonably priced?
thanks guys-good call craig!

[brainsnova]

they are easy to remove aslong as you understand how the cable clips are fitted. then its hard to break them.

[craig green]

Dont think the cables are available from Vaux anymore (likely an extortionate cost anyway).
The mechanism can get stiff & turning the knob too quickly will either break the back of the knob or stretch the cable. My advice is find another cable & take it off after warming the clip with a hairdryer which softens the plastic instead of it snapping when brittle.

Taylor. It sounds like your stat is sticking, too bad the cambelt has to come off when changing it on a std 8v... I had a 1.2 doing this a couple years ago. A 5 hour journey might see some warm air, it was so cold commuting through a frosty winter in it 20miles every morning.

[gouch]

:thumb: :thumb:

[jimbob-mcgrew]

they are easy to remove aslong as you understand how the cable clips are fitted. then its hard to break them.

id have to agree with gouch's mate, the plastic clips are subject to alot of heat over the years and become really brittle, ive litterally just touched a couple of them before and theyve split into 2 or 3 bits.

[taylor 2008]

craig green--

thats wat i thought it was thats my job for next week end as the car gets used dailey for work, thanks

[Jack]

Put a cable tie (or three joined) round the ducting that goes behind the glovebox, on the end where it attaches over the heater matrix. Feed the heater cable thru it, tighten the ties and it should hold in place - thats how mine has been for almost a year and no problems.

[AlexW]

RJ i was about to say the cable tie trick. My old nova had it like that for about a year, on both ends too lol

Taylor/CG - You dont Need to remove the cambelt, yes it makes it Much easyer, but its possible to do without, expect some swearing and problery a lot of moaning. But its possible lol

[xe Dan]

i glued up my ends to make them work and has been fine since

[Welsh Dan]

mine is doin this today exactly the same its bloweing cold air, you have to leave the car running for half and hr or so so then the guage moves up then blowes warm air, but when driveing the guage doesnt move stop's on cold, and blowes cold air, brought a new thermostate for it that should sove the problem dont you think????:thumb:

I had a similar problem with mine, it turned out to be a pinhole leak in the radiator so the system wasn't pressurising. I fixed it with some radweld, and I blocked off part of the radiator with a binbag and some duck tape. I only blocked off the part of the radiator that wasn't in front of the fan, so that the fan would still work if it needed to. It warmed up much faster on my way to work :).

[Asa-James]

, too bad the cambelt has to come off when changing it on a std 8v...

:wtf:

i did it just taking the cover off, left the belt in place, you can get to the two 10mm bolts just fine iirc.

and as a quick fix, get a piece of cardboard and cover up half/ three quarters of the rad from the front, reduces the cooling effect and lets the engine warm up nicely. just keep an eye on the temp gauge for obvious reasons...

[Mboasty]

check your water in the rad, mine done the same , turned out to be leaky water pump so had no water to heat!