Doors Rotten....

[matt_vaughan]

My doors are now officially rotten unfortunately.

However, as usual its only at the bottom, so is easiest to just by the door bottom skins or a full door skin?

Im not too bothered about a concourse smooth finish, as long as it's not instantly noticeable.

Anyone recomend either way?

Cheers

[matt_vaughan]

And, also, are there any little tricks that can be done to stop the things rotting through again in the future (apart from treating the insides, I will do that anyway.) I was thinking about some sort of sloped plastic guttering parked in the bottom which would let water out at one end.

[Southie]

If your interested Matt I have a white passenger side door, that was on my old sr. I can bring it to yours tomorrow to have a look at.

[Benn]

Skin up to the pillars, smoothing out a weld line on a nova door would be a knightmare.
Keeeping the water drains clear and clean. Keep the bottoms ofthe doors clean too. Watch for chips.

[matt_vaughan]

Got a load of exams etc tomorow David. The pass side door aint too bad its the drivers side which is gone. All depends how much you'd be after for it.

Benn, I was thinking the same thing, would be quite hard.

[Benn]

If you are gonna do it, get a normal skin, that will go to the pillars,
Paint the insides fully down to the bottoms, then waxall them right to the bottom, making sure the drains stay clear.

[Southie]

Got a load of exams etc tomorow David. The pass side door aint too bad its the drivers side which is gone. All depends how much you'd be after for it.

Benn, I was thinking the same thing, would be quite hard.
I'm working all day so I was meaning I could bring the door up tonight. :D
Is £25 okay :thumb:

Exams. Ah the good old days.

[Nova_Tek]

Skin up to the pillars, smoothing out a weld line on a nova door would be a knightmare.
Keeeping the water drains clear and clean. Keep the bottoms ofthe doors clean too. Watch for chips.

Tis true but would it not depend on how high up the rust goes on the door. ıf the rust is below the crease line (where the bump strips normally sit) then that would be easier to sort out.

[Benn]

Tis true but would it not depend on how high up the rust goes on the door. ıf the rust is below the crease line (where the bump strips normally sit) then that would be easier to sort out.

Doors are very thin and warp very easy. So its not the best way to do it.
And if you even remove the rub strip then you'll have to sand it off and fill till smooth. Alot more work than just putting a full skin on.

[Jay]

I did a skin on mine not so long ago.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e46/jays_nova/S1051146.jpg

[Benn]

Jay thats a lot of clag in that for a new skin, was it done with hammer and dolly or a "door skin "tool?

[Jay]

Door skin tool.

[Benn]

Ah, they suck..lol

[Jay]

Why? It has a bit of filler on it because it had a few dents in it.

[brainsnova]

Why? It has a bit of filler on it because it had a few dents in it.

dented before you fitted it?

[Benn]

Why? It has a bit of filler on it because it had a few dents in it.

Cause they tend to dent the skin, going by the filler along tyhe edges of the doors.

[Jay]

Oh right.

[Benn]

But as you had dents to fill it doesnt matter about a bit of filler.

[Jay]

But as you had dents to fill it doesnt matter about a bit of filler.

:thumb: Yea you know.

[dj_wudgey]

fook that im just going to buy some decent doors and have them painted looks less off a pain tbh

[Jay]

dented before you fitted it?

Yep nothing major of course, couldn't be arsed to send it back to beavers.

[matt_vaughan]

Jay do you have a pic of the other side?

Is it just the outer skin yer?

[Jay]

Yes just the skin, i could not afford £250 per door! And sorry no other pic.