seized bolts

[Andrew V]

Help! I'm trying to remove the rear shock absorbers but the bolt right at the bottom of the shock is completely stuck. I've tried soaking it in WD40 but it's not working. I've already managed to break a socket thing trying to get it off. Does anyone have any ideas?

[MattyWoo]

use heat, a blow torch or summit.
I tried undoing that, in the end i gave up!!

[Austin_Nova16]

Use a bit of scafold, or simitar, to give you more leverage (sp).

[Ste_Nova]

3 foot arm bar and an impact socket

[Andrew V]

what's an impact socket? tried the blow torch thing but still couldn't budge it. My b reg sr was less hassle than this and that was a heap!

[locky]

U need something hotter than a blowtorch like oxy and acetylene!, unless u can get it RED hot, and i mean RED! try undoing it, but dont heat up the bolt, as the bolt will swell up, u wana heat up where the bolt screws into on the wheel side, and then try undoing it, failing that, wait for it to cool off, it may break the seal. Failing that thet the bugger glowing again and use a scaffolding tube like austin nova sed,
If not, get hold of some oxy and acetylene, but b very careful as that stuff is VERY EXPLOSIVE!
Good luck!

[Stuart]

Air gun OR try doing it up 1/4 of a turn then it will break the lock on the thread. it should undo nice and easy then.

impact sockets are the black industrial ones, 6 sided sockets

[Chris LR]

'Impact socket' is a socket with only 6 sides, like the nut, The regular 12 sided sockets tend to round the nuts.

I know they're tough to undo and a b*stard to get something on. If it was in the open I'd use a jack handle plus a axle stand centre.

If I was you I'd try to get hold of,

1. The biggest bar you can fit under
2. Airgun
3. Oxy-Aceteylene

My only other thought is VERY VERY DANGEROUS, and could do serious damage. I'll share it with you if nothing else works.

[NovaGSi1600]

If you can't get the use of an air gun, the next best thing is an impart driver or then a big spanner that you can hit with a lump hammer. The trick to opening sceized nuts/bolts is shock or sudden impacts to break the joint. The rust has basically joined (like a weld or glue) the nut and bolt together, a slow twisting motion (using a big lever) will not break the joint, just cause damage.

Cheers,
Mick

[jon_boy]

THERMITE! mix of rust of powdered aluminium! burns through anything! last resort tho, and u have to mix it a special way.... and i wouldnt tell u nutters how to do that!

[Aragorn]

um a 50-50 mix will ignite but u need serious heat to get it going

the mix adjusts the ferocity of the burning

magnesium strip should just about be hot enough - but thats a psycho nutter idea and u'd end up melting thru half the rear beam, half your face and a nice hole in the road

[Chris LR]

My dangerous thought involved lowering the car down with a spanner attached. Using the floor and the cars weight to do something.

I'm not too sure if the bolt is low enough down to attempt this.

[wisewood]

can you not just get a spanner on it - and whack it a couple of times with a hammer to try and snap the seal of rust on it - should work if you hit it hard enough... then WD40 it and try and undo it again.

[Andrew V]

wisewood I tried that before I posted this and got a nice bruise and lots of scratches! I haven't actually had another attempt partly because I'm lazy and partly because I'm so pissed off with my car at the moment :twisted:
Cheers for the help lads rest assured this won't beat me although I don't think I'll be doing some of the crazy burning things!

[Chris LR]

You could drill it out, if you can get a couple of weeks off work.

[mowgli]

Why not use an angle grinder or hammer & chisel to butcher the bolts, using heat will do untold damage to the hub,bearings,seals, brakes etc.

Jack the rear up really high, remove the wheels, support the rear end. with the top shocker bolts undone, pull the rear beam down and you should have tons of room.

Remember If you haven't skinned a knuckle, you're not doing it right.