MC
19-11-02, 02:36 PM
To save the same questions keep cropping up, here’s a few ideas, feel free to add your comments tips and experience:
Before commencing any engine modifications, it is advisable to ensure that all of the basic components are working well. This will save time and money. The engine itself should be in sound condition with no unusual knocking noises and no smoke. There’s no point spending money on an engine that is going to fail. Also check that the ignition system is in good working order. If in doubt use new plugs, leads and distributor cap, nothing fancy, as long as they work, they’re fine.
This guide is based at getting power on a strict budget. Even this will cost money, so if your only driving this particular car for a short while until you can afford something faster, don’t bother, save your money. If however you see it as a project to get a quick little engine car and have fun, then these tips should be helpful. The only way you can really save money on any modification, is to do it yourself. If you are paying someone else, then change your pay details so that the money goes direct to the garage!
One last thing, if you have limited power, don’t fit big body kits and wheels, I guarantee they will slow you down. I lied, another note, lose weight, drop the huge stereo system, and if you can bear it, strip some interior, it will make more difference than spending ?500!
Tuning the 1.4:
Now this is an engine worth going to town on. You can get excellent performance, possibly enough to be competitive with 2.0 16v round a track. I will however add, that you must be dedicated. If you decide to go to bigger cc’s you’ll be wasting your money by playing half heartedly with the 1.4.
Head
To start off with, I’d scrap the 1.4 head. It’s poo. Even if you have it modified, it would still be inferior to the 1.2, 1.3 or 1.4i. So there’s you starting point. The best bet is the 1.2. It will raise compression flow better and be cheaper to buy. The 1.4I has larger valves but requires work to match the inlet ports. Far too expensive. Whilst the head is off you can look into matching the manifolds. Cut the gaskets to an exact match with the manifolds, then use them as templates to machine material from the head. If in doubt get help! To go all out you’ve got to go to someone like Blydenstein. You wont get any better. Cost: ?50 - ?500
Exhaust
Now here’s where it gets tricky, I’m not sure if there will be much, if any benefit from using a GTE/GSI exhaust system. If not the only option is to buy an aftermarket one. It’s gonna cost money. If you are goings for max BHP then buy a system and manifold, if your on a budget, you might as well stick with what you have, or possibly a back box. ?0 - ?250
Camshaft
Now the cheap option would be to use the 1.6 camshaft. This might give increased duration and lift, but beware, try to use the followers that are with the new cam, and in the correct place. Also look at the amount of wear. There is no point picking a cam coz it is suppose to have 2mm higher lift over a longer duration if there is 4mm of wear on the followers. Try buying new ones if you can stretch to it, and come to mention it, buying new ones for the standard cam will probably bring back a few missing ponies. For all-out power, I’d ignore people that say not to go too wild. The cams cost the same, mid range torque loss is minimal (other mods will more than compensate) and the power gained is phenomenal. That’s from real world experience! Costs: Cam: ?25 - ?180
Inlet
Assuming you’ve taken my advice, you’ll need a manifold suitable for a 1.3 head. Matching is very important if you can do it. The cheaper option is to try and obtain a weber 32/34 twin choke. These can be found in scrappies, but you’ll have to hunt around. You’ll need to fit an adapter plate which can be bought from weber dealers unless you are lucky enough to find one off a Nova. To get the best performance from this, you’ll need to ensure that the carb is matched to the manifold by increasing the diameter of the inlet and it’s gaskets/adapters. This is necessary to maximise the use of the new carb. The ultimate power gain will come from fitting Twin 40 DCOE’s. Now I doubt you’ll find any in a scrap yard, especially not with the 1.3 manifold, although you’ll probably be able to get them second hand. The cost of these will start escalating the budget as you’ll have to ensure they are set up on a rolling road, but once set up you should not need to pay them any more attention. The key is locking any mixture and balance screws in place. I wont go into detail, but you’ll need to get a few bits to make them fit and work. The information is available. Cost: ?100 - ?300.
So that sums up the critical stuff. Depending on what routes you take, you can have from 100bhp to 135+bhp and torque with it. The cost can vary from ?150 - ?1200. It all depends how hard you try to find bargains and second hand parts.
I will stress however that decent brakes and suspension are a must if you want to go anywhere fast!
Before commencing any engine modifications, it is advisable to ensure that all of the basic components are working well. This will save time and money. The engine itself should be in sound condition with no unusual knocking noises and no smoke. There’s no point spending money on an engine that is going to fail. Also check that the ignition system is in good working order. If in doubt use new plugs, leads and distributor cap, nothing fancy, as long as they work, they’re fine.
This guide is based at getting power on a strict budget. Even this will cost money, so if your only driving this particular car for a short while until you can afford something faster, don’t bother, save your money. If however you see it as a project to get a quick little engine car and have fun, then these tips should be helpful. The only way you can really save money on any modification, is to do it yourself. If you are paying someone else, then change your pay details so that the money goes direct to the garage!
One last thing, if you have limited power, don’t fit big body kits and wheels, I guarantee they will slow you down. I lied, another note, lose weight, drop the huge stereo system, and if you can bear it, strip some interior, it will make more difference than spending ?500!
Tuning the 1.4:
Now this is an engine worth going to town on. You can get excellent performance, possibly enough to be competitive with 2.0 16v round a track. I will however add, that you must be dedicated. If you decide to go to bigger cc’s you’ll be wasting your money by playing half heartedly with the 1.4.
Head
To start off with, I’d scrap the 1.4 head. It’s poo. Even if you have it modified, it would still be inferior to the 1.2, 1.3 or 1.4i. So there’s you starting point. The best bet is the 1.2. It will raise compression flow better and be cheaper to buy. The 1.4I has larger valves but requires work to match the inlet ports. Far too expensive. Whilst the head is off you can look into matching the manifolds. Cut the gaskets to an exact match with the manifolds, then use them as templates to machine material from the head. If in doubt get help! To go all out you’ve got to go to someone like Blydenstein. You wont get any better. Cost: ?50 - ?500
Exhaust
Now here’s where it gets tricky, I’m not sure if there will be much, if any benefit from using a GTE/GSI exhaust system. If not the only option is to buy an aftermarket one. It’s gonna cost money. If you are goings for max BHP then buy a system and manifold, if your on a budget, you might as well stick with what you have, or possibly a back box. ?0 - ?250
Camshaft
Now the cheap option would be to use the 1.6 camshaft. This might give increased duration and lift, but beware, try to use the followers that are with the new cam, and in the correct place. Also look at the amount of wear. There is no point picking a cam coz it is suppose to have 2mm higher lift over a longer duration if there is 4mm of wear on the followers. Try buying new ones if you can stretch to it, and come to mention it, buying new ones for the standard cam will probably bring back a few missing ponies. For all-out power, I’d ignore people that say not to go too wild. The cams cost the same, mid range torque loss is minimal (other mods will more than compensate) and the power gained is phenomenal. That’s from real world experience! Costs: Cam: ?25 - ?180
Inlet
Assuming you’ve taken my advice, you’ll need a manifold suitable for a 1.3 head. Matching is very important if you can do it. The cheaper option is to try and obtain a weber 32/34 twin choke. These can be found in scrappies, but you’ll have to hunt around. You’ll need to fit an adapter plate which can be bought from weber dealers unless you are lucky enough to find one off a Nova. To get the best performance from this, you’ll need to ensure that the carb is matched to the manifold by increasing the diameter of the inlet and it’s gaskets/adapters. This is necessary to maximise the use of the new carb. The ultimate power gain will come from fitting Twin 40 DCOE’s. Now I doubt you’ll find any in a scrap yard, especially not with the 1.3 manifold, although you’ll probably be able to get them second hand. The cost of these will start escalating the budget as you’ll have to ensure they are set up on a rolling road, but once set up you should not need to pay them any more attention. The key is locking any mixture and balance screws in place. I wont go into detail, but you’ll need to get a few bits to make them fit and work. The information is available. Cost: ?100 - ?300.
So that sums up the critical stuff. Depending on what routes you take, you can have from 100bhp to 135+bhp and torque with it. The cost can vary from ?150 - ?1200. It all depends how hard you try to find bargains and second hand parts.
I will stress however that decent brakes and suspension are a must if you want to go anywhere fast!