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mikeoxford
18-11-02, 05:44 PM
hi all.

not after posts of a "id do this" or "use this engine head" natured post.

im posting to find out how to actually physically change the head.

i have read the guide on here about modifying a head, and this kinda covers swapping a head / replcament / fitting.

:?: is it a case of make sure you get the timing (i.e cam belt - TDC of the lower pulley - and the cam pulley at top) and also the dizzy timing, stamped on the holder? apart from the timing what else is a problem (from a simple bolt off bolt on!?)

:?: i am fitting a 1.3 modified head, onto a 1.4 engine, so i need WHICH gasket?

:?: what else would any of you like to throw at me?! reading recent posts it is evident that quite a few of you have changed heads (not literally) :lol: so id imagine this post should get a good answer or two - PLEASE!!!! 8)

respect
mike

PS - you may have heard me chant on about aftermarket strut braces - DO IT! you wont regret it!! 3piece set, looks the dogs and makes the car handle like a hand in a glove

mikeoxford
18-11-02, 05:54 PM
:idea: i am aware that you have to do it when the engine is cold to avoid warping anything etc etc.

:?: but also, i have read somewhere - couldnt find the page, you undo the bolts in a sequence? i think its diagnonal corners, and then round in a circle???

:!: cheers again

Austin_Nova16
18-11-02, 06:06 PM
If you havn't already got one....go and buy a haynes manual. This will have step by step instructions on replacing etc every part of your car.

To time the engine, take it down to a local garage, or buy a timing strobe (must be a cheap one on e-bay).

mikeoxford
18-11-02, 06:16 PM
ive just thumbed through the haynes - i have got one - forgot to look there :oops:

its scary sh!te! do you really have to do all that?

:arrow: i dont like the sound of removing the water pump - everybodies leaks when its distrubed

:arrow: do you really have to remove camshaft housing from the head - also the top cover and all the other stuff :O

i dont mind gettin dirty - not at all, am prepared to learn, but to be fair, i dont quite think im up for this job :O me and dad have played with bike engines, and replaced the oil sump seal and the rocker cover seal on my old 1.2 - but THIS :O

have been talkin to 2 people on MSN, and they dont reckon its all that bad, its just well - seems a big job etc

CP / austin / ste / ANYONE! other engine bods wanna free weekend at my house?

beer and pizza / kfc provided

mikeoxford
18-11-02, 06:36 PM
if its a 1.3 head it wont go on the 1.4 bottom end...water and oil holes in wrong place

:arrow: another geezer on MSN - is the above quote right?? :o

gggrrr i just wanna get it done and sorted, without stuff pissin out everywhere and wishin i never bothered

Aragorn
18-11-02, 08:00 PM
well it bloody well should fit since its the same block and loads of other folk have done it

so who on msn said that then?

CP
18-11-02, 10:04 PM
I know of at least 2 of these conversions and heard of people doing it from several other different respected sources and I've never heard that there are any problems of that nature at all?

ollster
18-11-02, 11:10 PM
it will fit fine the only thing i could see being different would be the shape and dpeth of the combustion chambers. As far as i know you shouldnt have to remove the water pump, you may need to move it slightly to adjust the belt tension but i doubt it because the 1.4 sr should have a belt tenshioner on it. The camshaft housing is seperate from the head you simply seal it with blue hylomar easy!

mikeoxford
18-11-02, 11:26 PM
yeah i didnt think there would be a problem in doing it really (i mean the problem of not being able to fit the 1.3 head to 1.4) i thought you could do it

still have the other concerns though.

re. the water pump etc, in the 1.4 section in haynes it says only a couple of things then refers you to the 1.2 and 1.3 section on the older models, methinks some relates ot that only and not what im trying to do, im thinking of having bash at it. i can c me doin it on a weekend,, not gettin it done and being transport less for a month or so though!!!

keep the posts coming! the more advice the better guys believe!

personally, i think its like this - correct me or add steps! cut n paste below..........

THE LOW DOWN!

disconnect all pipework, fuel, water etc, electric
remove inlet manifold and exhaust
set TDC on bottom pulley, mark cam pulley and also distributer against block
undo the bolts in spiral pattern with a cold engine
whip old head off.
place new head gasket in place WHICH SIZE PLEASE????
place new head on.
run bead of blue sealer stuff round top,
place camshaft assembly on top.
bolt all together tight in oppostie spiral pattern.
rotate cam to get it TDC and put cam belt back on in right place
advance or retard new distributer by same amount as old.
connect inlet and exhaust back up, and connections

any more for any more!? - please help - then i can have a play on the MWAY and the dual carriageways round here on the way to the MK meet!!

jim sri
19-11-02, 09:44 AM
i think you'll need the 1.4 gasket.
get some emery paper and THOROUGHLY clean the engine block surface before putting the new gasket on otherwise it'll just go in another few weeks.
also either clean the head mating surface up in the same way,or get skimmed etc.
but make sure both mating surfaces are meticulously clean.

Cheese
19-11-02, 10:06 AM
Ok, quick reply coz ive got to make a lecture in 2 mins!

Use a 1400 head gasket and bolts. Yes you do have to do them in the correct sequence! check the Haynes for this!

When i did mine i had to change round some of the locaters on the block as they are in the same place as the ones on the head.. These are only thin metal, so can be pulled out/broken pretty easily, and moved around so that the head and block fit together..

Everything else works and fits together fine..

If you need any more help PM me here or txt (07801 429 107), and ill write a longer explanation later..

Hope this helps,

Ben :)