nova sri xe project

[dumpycorsa]

Hi.I've owned my nova xe now for just over a year. The engine thats currently in the car has past it (burns oil,compression down). Not worth me rebuilding this engine as I have a freshly rebuilt bottom end left from my corsa xe.

Any way a few pics of how it was and how it is now-

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/mynova006.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/mynova003.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/mynova001.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/mynova004.jpg

The old engine -

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/davesandamyspictures373.jpg

Vid of a drag race between me and a 20xe'd mini

http://s174.photobucket.com/albums/w91/LEE_69/smeatharpe/kegs_vids/?action=view&current=Movie11.flv

My new bits to go on -

BTB high torque ceramic coated manifold


http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/exhaustmanifold.jpg

new big valve head and cams from Autosprint. Cams are 288 deg duration and the valves are one piece stainless 1mm oversize.Comes with duplex springs, large ports and it's been gas flowed
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/P1010032.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/P1010154.jpg

Straight cut final drive and main shaft for my F20 gearbox (ratio is 4.2)

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/Picture200941.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/019.jpg

New Quaife ATB diff and full bearing and gasket set (thanks to steveboyslim on mig for the bargain prices)

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/018.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/020.jpg

Arp fly wheel bolts

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/025.jpg

New lightweight fly wheel (3.6kg's with the starter gear ring fitted)

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/flywheel.jpg

Webcon mappable ecu with new xe loom and sensors (air temp, throttle pos sensor and crank sensor)

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/webconecu.jpg

[Rickyb]

looking good buddy i like the look of the car you wouldnt realy expect it to have a xe in it lol :thumb:

[dumpycorsa]

my engine as it currently stands

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/myengine.jpg

Removing the old engine and box

Loom un-plugged
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/005-2.jpg
Wheels off shafts out
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/006-2.jpg
ARB and tie bars removed
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/007-2.jpg
gearbox mounts off
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/008-2.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/009-2.jpg
bonnet off for clearance
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/010-2.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/011-2.jpg

Note the oil everywhere from the typical leaking xe sump:roll:

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/013-2.jpg
If only it was all that simplelol
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/012-2.jpg

Job done

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/016-2.jpg

[dumpycorsa]

The car is currently having a new front panel fitted and the engine bay sprayed
Before I took the panel in with the car I stitch welded the cross member where the tie bars mount

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/064.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/065.jpg

I'm collecting my freshly rebuilt F20 tonight and hopefully the engine bay will be finished this week ready to fit the new lump.

I've got strengthening plates for the lower arms aswell to weld up. Although I haven't had a problem with these so far (the car was converted 4 yrs ago) I think it's worth doing it all now before everything goes back together. I'll be using solid mounts on this engine so I've also done a little more stitch welding around the offside front mount and the front gearbox mount prior to spraying.

The car is being fitted with a full set of poly bushes as we go. This includes rad mounts, steering rack mounts and even exhaust mounts.

I hoping to reach 200bhp. The target I've set myself anyway. Would rather do it without using nitrous as I dont think this is true power

[Adam]

Good stuff.
Liking the engine bits

[dumpycorsa]

looking good buddy i like the look of the car you wouldnt realy expect it to have a xe in it lol :thumb:


Thanks chap

To be honest it's the street sleeper car I'm after. I'm not one for big spoilers and bumpers. I'd rather have a clean standard looking car that goes well. Money spent under the bonnet of the car is well spent in my eyes. Nothing better than going past a quick car in a nova that looks standardlol

The look on their faces is priceless

[Pistol Pete]

Looking good indeed. New engine looks great. Your car has the sleeper factor IMO. What was it originally? SR?

[dumpycorsa]

No it was an SRI. Nice and subtle is the way. I was considering changing the wheels to comp MO's but think this may affect the "bog standard 1.4 look".

[pug-boy1]

very nice project!!

[Steve]

Cool mate, nice project, a mate of mine has those tigra wheels on his nova, very good choice imo.

Right attitude as well mate, performance over styling any day :thumb:

[dumpycorsa]

Little bit to up date on this. I'll be picking the car up from the body shop tonight. New front panel and full engine bay spray. This has taken alot longer than I was hoping but least it's done now (pics to follow of the new paint job). I've had the gearbox back from rebuild for a week now so decided to paint the rear mount. Lucky I did as the strengthening plate on the arch of the mount had split two of the 4 spot welds. Not sure if anyone has had this happen before but i decided to seam weld down both sides of the bracket to help prevent this happening again.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/001-2.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/002-2.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/003-2.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/004-2.jpg


Then a coat of paint -

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/075.jpg

Hopefully now everything is back things will progress quickly. All being well.

Pics of the engine build to it's current state

Started with this -

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/engine1.jpg

Put the block on an engine stand and masked it up

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/engine2.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/engine3.jpg

After a quick rub down and degrease a couple of coats of high build primer

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/engine4.jpg

Then top coat. 3 or 4 coats of this

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/engine5.jpg

Removing the masking -

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/engine6.jpg

[dumpycorsa]

We also sprayed the rocker cover at the same time. Used a primer etch with this as it's ally

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/engine7.jpg

Engine back into workshop.

Using a clock we marked true TDC on the crank pulley

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/engine8.jpg

Unpacked my new Autosprint head

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/engine9.jpg

Genuine gasket fitted then bolted the head down

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/engine10.jpg

Water pump etc fitted after the paint was cleaned from were the pump seals

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/engine11.jpg

SBD inlet fitted. I polished alot of material from the bores on this to ensure smooth flow of air/fuel mixture into the head

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/engine12.jpg

SBD breather mod fitted into rocker cover.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/engine13.jpg

cams in. Coated with cam lube as they're new. Also verniers fitted

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/engine14.jpg


Cam belt on and timed up. Rocker cover fitted

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/engine15.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/engine16.jpg

[dumpycorsa]

Next we fitted the starter gear ring on to the lightened fly wheel.

First, heat the ring on the old fly wheel and tap the fly wheel in a circular motion as you work round with the torch

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/flywheelremoval.jpg

After a bit -

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/flywheelremoval1.jpg

Then did the exact opposite to fit it to the new wheel

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/flywheelremoval2.jpg

Next we fitted the dizzy blanking plate.

Put a bit of loc-tite into the end of the cam where the oil feeds from.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/qedblankingplate.jpg

Then tapped the bearing in supplied by QED

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/qedblankingplate2.jpg

The plate with rubber o ring

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/qedblankingplate1.jpg

This plate then just simply taps into the recess where the dizzy originally locates.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/qedblankingplate3.jpg

[dumpycorsa]

The only other job done was to fit the throttle position sensor (TPS) on to the webers

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/throttlepositionsensor.jpg

This will then tell the webcon ecu how much throttle has been applied

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/throttlepositionsensor1.jpg

Can't wait to get the engine in the car now so I can see if all the money,time and hard work has been worth it. I'm sure it will

[Adam]

Very nice work.
Engine looks cool

[NovaGuy1400SRi]

Engine looks great!

Car looks sleepertastic too :cool:

[dumpycorsa]

Thanks for the comments. I've got the car back now(wallet now £300 lighter!!!) so hopefully I'll be up dating things more often. Trying to restore a mk2 Astra valver aswell so having to juggle things around.

[dumpycorsa]

Ok. Small up date. Got pics of the engine bay after being sprayed. I've had a pattern front panel fitted and I can report that it fitted without any major issues. The only thing I've had to sort is one of the self tapping type bolts the holds the head light in didn't line up. All sorted now.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/002-3.jpg


http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/001-3.jpg


http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/003-3.jpg


http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/004-3.jpg


http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/005-3.jpg

Next is a new strut brace. It's an adjustable one for a corsa B. The nova ones I've seen have been more than twice what I paid for this so if I can get it to fit I'll be chuffed. It has loads of adjustment so should compensate for the size difference between the corsa and the nova.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/006-3.jpg


http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/007-3.jpg

Next job this weekend is to seam weld the f/n/s mount bracket. Due to finding the rear bracket had split it's spot welds I'm not taking any chances with this one

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/008-3.jpg


http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/009-3.jpg


http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/010-3.jpg.

Hopefully I'll get time to sort some stuff on my engine this weekend. I need to remove my webers and get them re-jetted.

:thumb:

[dj_wudgey]

this car looks well good matey standard looking novas are the way. oh and liking the vid sh*t mini gets batterd!!!

[Rickyb]

thats a f(_)cking nice car and a nice engine let me know wen it comes up for sale.:thumb:

[dumpycorsa]

Cheers chaps. Hopefully the engine and car will be around for a while. If the engine out lives the car it'll be transplanted into my next project. That'll be rear wheel drive though

[dumpycorsa]

Only a small up date. I've ordered new bottom arms this week so I can weld the strenghening plates to them this weekend. Also I can fit the poly bushes and my new GM bottom ball joints (which cost a shocking £35 each!!!) Bearing in mind pattern ones are £6.12p each trade! Photos of this will follow.

So far this week I have taken my bottom pulley into work and turned it down from a heavy twin pulley to a much lighter single V pulley.

Before I started -

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/007-4.jpg


And once I'd finished -


http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/008-4.jpg

Just needs a quick coat of paint to finish off:)


I have also now received my Bailey oil catch tank. Wanted one for ages so got in quick when colin smith said he had one for sale. Cleaned up like new so I'm pleased with it -

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/001-4.jpg

[Plug]

that engine looks mint!!!!!!

is a true sleeper

[dumpycorsa]

that engine looks mint!!!!!!

is a true sleeper

Cheers mate.

Nice Avatarlol

[wils2795]

Coming along nicely mate....looking forward to seeing the end result!

[novaxe235]

that engine looks lovley wish i had sprayed mine instead of hand paint

[Steve]

Watch out for that dizzy blanking plate, my mate had one and after not more than 20 miles on the car it fell off!! Luckily he was going slow at the time so managed to find it.

[*Dave*]

Watch out for that dizzy blanking plate, my mate had one and after not more than 20 miles on the car it fell off!! Luckily he was going slow at the time so managed to find it.

yeah what a mess that made!
every drop of oil from the engine ended up all over the bay bonnet header tank.......everything.

[dumpycorsa]

Watch out for that dizzy blanking plate, my mate had one and after not more than 20 miles on the car it fell off!! Luckily he was going slow at the time so managed to find it.

Ok mate will do thanks. I'm in the process of making a bracket to hold the dis-pac which I'm hoping will use the the two holes either side of the plate to mount it on. Then theres alot less chance of it falling off....Hopefullylol

[dumpycorsa]

Right, got the bottom arms built up this weekend.
I ordered new bottom arms to weld the plates to and new (genuine) bottom ball joints. Also fitted the first pair of my poly bushes B)
First, the new arms come painted and have a bush already fitted into the arm.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/003-4.jpg
First job was to remove the paint from the areas which where being welded
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/006-4.jpg
The new strengthening plates .These had to be fettled slightly to get a good even match on the new arms.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/005-4.jpg
Next job was to press out the standard bush. Used two sockets to do this, one on the top that was smaller than the bore of the arm and one underneath that was bigger than the O/D of the bush. Simply press the top socket through til the bush drops out the bottom
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/007-5.jpg
Like so
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/008-5.jpg
Next was to tack the plates into position
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/012-3.jpg
Once we were happy that the plate was flat all the way round the arm and it was in the correct position we seam welded the plate on-
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/013-3.jpg
Do the same on the other arm then fettle the weld down and remove any weld splatters
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/014-3.jpg
Once cooled enough press in my new poly bushes. Apply a little lube to the bush then start each side of the bush by hand then lay flat onto a solid surface and press together
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/004-4.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/009-4.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/010-4.jpg
Back home ready for a coat of paint
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/016-3.jpg
Job done.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/017-3.jpg

:

[dumpycorsa]

Also a couple of pics of my Ashley exhaust. In kit form so has to be fitted to the car then welded together. It's a 2 box system 2 1/2" bore all the way through. Cost £120 so can't complain at that :D

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/103.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/104.jpg
Maybe a little on the loud side though :lol

[LEWI007]

Exhaust looks good :thumb:

[Riggy]

just seen thread , looks awsome fella :thumb:

[dumpycorsa]

Cheers chaps, Hopefully this will be finished by xmas.

Thats the plan anyway, tired of driving a slow **** standard run about

[gary_126]

Superb project! love how you still have kept the bodywork original, makes me wish mine still had the vinal etc (also flame red sri,but running a tb'd c16xe)

[The Simps]

I am offically horned!

I want your engine.

[dumpycorsa]

^^^ Thanks chaps. I'm trying my best to fly the nova flag high and do a good job.

Got some local scrutineers that think all novas are crap and jap is the only way!!!

[corsakid]

good job mate, should be a flyer once finished :)

[dumpycorsa]

Ok. It's been a while due to xmas and funds but finally got a few more problems sorted on the engine.

Went to the garage the other week to start fitting the alternator,starter, thermostat etc. Ran into a problem straight away which was the alternator hitting the underside of the inlet manifold. I did some reasearch and realised that a lower after market bracket wasn't available on the shelf for the big block. Whilst at work I decided to make some lowering blocks for the original bracket. These seem to have worked but my mate has a late type xe in his garage which runs a multi v type alternator. This is a much smaller rounder type alternator and the bracket seems to be lower aswell. I'm going to try this alternator on to my engine before sticking with the original single v type.I have also looked into the top bracket. On SBD's small alternator kit they use a threaded bar with two rose jointed rod ends. I'm hoping to make my own this week by threading a tube half with an M8 normal fine thread and half with an M8 reverse fine thread. That way (with 2 flats ground onto the tube) I can tension the belt by just turning the tube so both rod ends will extend out and put tension onto the belt. Then it's just a case of locking off the 2 rod ends.

This is the SBD type alternator and brackets -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/sbdalternator.gif

The bottom bracket is identical to the late spec xe one (with the multi v belt) and the top bracket is the one I'll make. This SBD alternator kit is approx £250 so if I can make something up that'll do the same job but for alot less I'll be happy.

Another issue I had to sort was to plumb a bung into the inlet manifold for the brake servo vacuum. SBD sent me a bung which they use for their engines. It's a 1/8th NPT thread on the side which goes into the manifold. Finding a tap for this tapered thread was a nightmare but got there in the end. Then I used a push fit type adaptor on the other end so I can simply slide the nylon vacuum pipe over the end.

Will up date with photos when I can.

Also I've just purchased a coil-pac (coil 4) from SBD and mounting plate that locates on to the original dizzy holes. The coil from SBD uses a 4 pin plug (not the standard 3 pin used by vauxhall). I've checked my webcon wiring loom and that also uses a 4 pin plug. Glad I didn't go and buy myself a standard 3 pin now. Also I've just purchased some rose jointed and lowered tie bar mounts. Get the eccentric top mounts and my coil overs fitted then I can get the suspension geometry set up. Engine will be fitted first though.

Keep you posted as things happen. Cheers for looking

[dumpycorsa]

Ok. got some photos to help explain the above. Firstly the alternator issues.I've tried the multi v type alternator on the engine now and it clears the bottom of the carbs. Only downside now is it's really close to the TPS on the side of the carbs.

This is the early type xe alternator bracket which is offset which causes the issues

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/015-3.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/016-4.jpg

As stated I made some lowering blocks as an alternative to changing the whole set up

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/007-6.jpg

After talking to SBD. It was decided that I'd be better off using a multi v type belt. My mates late xe had a multi v type alternator and a much lower bracket. Is off an xe so it would solve any spacing issues and its smaller. I haven't got a picture of that but basically it clears the inlet but to fix a top bracket to tension the belt would be really close to the TPS.My mate suggested a small jap style alternator. This one is off a nissan sunny. It's got a 4 v pulley on it already and it gives plenty of clearance

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/027.jpg

This is the sunny alternator on the late type bottom bracket.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/025-1.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/024.jpg

Only downside to this alternator is I'll have to make spacers for either side of the bracket to ensure it's lined up with the crank pulley

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/026.jpg.

I've taken some measurements and I need to make a 14.5mm spacer to align the alternator to the crank pulley. I'll make them this week. Also need to get one of SBD's 4 v bottom pulleys.It's 110 mm dia so it should reduce the speed of the alternator. Also the pulley on the nissan alternator is 65mm dia which is alot bigger than the vauxhall one.This alternator is almost exactly the same as the one SBD use.It also gives alot more room for a bracket to clamp it.

This is the vacuum take off pipe which I had to fit. I had to drill and tap the inlet with a 1/8NPT thread to fit the bung. Then I got a push fit adaptor for the other end.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/001-5.jpg

Also I had to make a bracket to hold the air temp sensor between the intakes of the carbs. Not a professional job but does the trick.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/005-5.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/006-5.jpg

[dumpycorsa]

Fitted the bracket to hold the new coil from SBD.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/003-5.jpg

Coil on and fitted my magnicore leads

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/013-4.jpg

Fitted the loom as well to see how much was left for the ecu. Not alot

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/014-4.jpg

Next job was to set the cam timing. Obviously this will get tweaked slightly when the engine is set up on the rollers but for now we just set both cams to be at full lift 110deg from TDC.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/028.jpg

We marked true TDC on the crank pulley before we put the head on. We lined this mark up then fitted the timing disc. Once secure we made a pointer and set the disc to zero.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/029-1.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/030.jpg

At 110 deg after TDC we removed the belt and set the inlet cam on piston 4 to full lift. We measured full lift by using a DTI gauge on the lifter.There is a dwell period on the cam lobe so we set the cam at a nominal point of this dwell.
Once that cam was set we marked the cam so we could check it once we had set the exhaust cam to ensure nothing had moved.
We then refitted the belt (slackening off the vernier pulley so the belt would line up with the teeth in the pulley).We rotated the crank to 110deg before TDC to set the exhaust cam. Same process as the inlet on cylinder 4.Finding the nominal point of the dwell and marking the cam for reference

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/032.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/031.jpg

Once all set we rotated the crank back to TDC then checked the tension on the belt.
I also put loc-tite on to the vernier pulley bolts and the main crank pulley when refitting

[The Simps]

Looking good chap!

What ecu setup you using? Weber Alpha?

[dumpycorsa]

Looking good chap!

What ecu setup you using? Weber Alpha?

Thanks mate. I've just been reading through your project thread too.Great work.

Yeah, I'm using a Weber Alpha kit.It's not the best I know but for the price I got the kit for it was a bargain. Was listed under caterham kit on ebay so nobody saw it. Ideal for me.It's quite a simple loom, just uses the crank sensor, air temp, TPS and thats it.Only down side is it's a rear wheel drive loom so theres not alot of slack. ECU may have to be put in a sealed electrical box in the scuttle tray:(

[Jay]

Looking good mate, can't belive i missed this thread looks funking awesome! :thumb: Keep up the good work, and get that engine in :)

[dumpycorsa]

Thanks mate. I keep a low profilelol

I've just paid for some track time at Castle Combe on April 25th. I've been assured that it'll be running a long time before then. I can only work on it when my mate is at the garage on weekends (which his misses dont let him do often:roll:). His mk2 gte (also booked in to combe on April 25th) is alot further away than minelol

[The Simps]

Thanks mate. I've just been reading through your project thread too.Great work.

Yeah, I'm using a Weber Alpha kit.It's not the best I know but for the price I got the kit for it was a bargain. Was listed under caterham kit on ebay so nobody saw it. Ideal for me.It's quite a simple loom, just uses the crank sensor, air temp, TPS and thats it.Only down side is it's a rear wheel drive loom so theres not alot of slack. ECU may have to be put in a sealed electrical box in the scuttle tray:(


Just lengthen the loom bud, its not that hard. You're only going to have a handfull of wires anyway! You'll probably need a length of shielded wire thats cheap as chips of ebay (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=m38.l1313&_nkw=shielded+wire&_sacat=See-All-Categories) and the rest is simple. You can then lengthen it to put it wherever you want. You ideally want it in the car anyway so you can plug the laptop in for mapping.

[craig green]

Nice build. Look forward to seeing it at Combe.

Fingers crossed for you.

[dumpycorsa]

Just lengthen the loom bud, its not that hard. You're only going to have a handfull of wires anyway! You'll probably need a length of shielded wire thats cheap as chips of ebay (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=m38.l1313&_nkw=shielded+wire&_sacat=See-All-Categories) and the rest is simple. You can then lengthen it to put it wherever you want. You ideally want it in the car anyway so you can plug the laptop in for mapping.

That is an option yes. I reckon if I extend the coil wiring I can take the loom through to the drivers side. When the block is on its mounts i'll have a better idea of where it can go. Ideally I'd like it under the glove box but we'll see.:thumb:

[dumpycorsa]

Nice build. Look forward to seeing it at Combe.

Fingers crossed for you.

Cheers. Hopefully it wont be stuffed into the tyres before you get chance to see itlol . Got some club passes that allocate track time between 9 and 11am.

[L33 LEG]

engine looks perfect! will be good to see it in the car up and running :)

[Plug]

a local car that looks awesome.

:thumb:

[Riggy]

progress looks mint fella :thumb:

[Vauxhall_Redtop]

That engine looks mint!:thumb:

I,m sure it will reach 200Bhp:cool:

Nice one m8

[dumpycorsa]

Thanks for comments. 200bhp has always been my goal. I'm running a fairly standard bottom end so I dont think alot more than 200bhp is realistic. We'll soon find out hopefully

[Plug]

Hopefully i can get up to the action day and see it in action.

[dumpycorsa]

Hopefully i can get up to the action day and see it in action.

Never been round Combe and obviously I wouldn't have had the car finished long to get much practice in. Dont expect any lap recordslol

I'm a bit concerned that my final drive ratio change may cause it to rev out on the fast section through the start finish straight.


I've checked my gear ratios and it's going to be flat out at 120ish (depending on rev limit and tyre profiles)

What kind of speeds are people reaching going up the hill after the start finish straight?I watched DAR's videos from combe and his sounds near the limiter as he back off at the top of the hill. I think he's using a 4.2 ratio final drive but a taller 5th gear. Obviously he knows the track well too.

[dj_wudgey]

fooking hell that engine looks **** hot on that stand!!

[nova ian]

Impressive build, Shell looks nice and you have a sorted xe to go in there too :cool:

Are you still running the standard hydraulic lifters in that head and also are you running the standard xe pistons with the 288deg cams?? as I'm looking into a pair for mine :thumb:

[dumpycorsa]

Impressive build, Shell looks nice and you have a sorted xe to go in there too :cool:

Are you still running the standard hydraulic lifters in that head and also are you running the standard xe pistons with the 288deg cams?? as I'm looking into a pair for mine :thumb:

Thanks mate. As I bought all my head stuff from Autosprint they supplied me with what I needed. I bought a set of new hydraulic lifters from him and the head came with double duplex valve springs. The pistons are their flat top 86.5mm type with deeper valve cutouts. Standard machined ones in other wordslol Not sure if you can run standard pistons,it'll be close I'd imagine

I'm yet to see if it's money well spent but I bought a pair of stage 2 xe cams from him when I was running injection and they made the car quicker. I didn't dyno it so cant give power gains

[nova ian]

Thanks for the info, very much appreciated :cool:

I'm preparing my bottom end at the moment ready for any head upgrades in the future as and when I can afford!

Will keep an eye on this topic, will be very interesting to see how well this thing goes, certainly should be really well given the spec and hardwork gone in so far

Keep at it mate :thumb:

[dumpycorsa]

Thanks nova Ian. Sometimes you think "is it worth it" but then when it's finished I'lll soon forget about all the money and problems involved.

A little up date -

I have now got the new spacers for the alternator
All I need to get now is a 2 pin connector plug from a nissan or similar car that uses this type of plug on the alternator. Scrappy for me friday me thinks :lol:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/024-1.jpg


Also, I have now ordered my alloy bottom pulley from SBD (4v type) and the rose jointed tie rods. I'll keep you posted on whats involved with the alternator issues. This seems to be a grey area and quite a few people experience problems when converting to carbs. I tried to search for answers but didn't get any exact solutions.I'll try and list exactly what I've used so it'll save people time and money.

If it works obviously

[adamz]

nice project matey

[dumpycorsa]

Got some more shiny bits today. Some of the bits i need to fit this jap style alternator to my engine. Firstly (as I'm changing from a single V belt to a 4V belt) my new billet aluminium bottom pulley.Probably half the weight of the original pulley if not more. The dia is reduced to 110mm to help gear the alternator down. The alternator pulley itself is alot bigger than the original vauxhall one thus that should help aswell. This will help reduce drag on the engine I presume.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/001-6.jpg

Also purchased were some rose jointed tie rods. These will be used for my new alternator top bracket. One is standard thread the other is a reverse thread. Reason being is so I can fit them together and tension the alternator belt by turning a central joining piece(pics of this to follow as a special friend is making this for me ;) )This will push both rod ends out thus tensioning the belt. Thats the plan anyway
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/002-5.jpg

[Plug]

some serious thought is going in to the build of this engine its got mods on it ive never even heard of.

cant wait to see this up and running shame there isnt dakota drag strip anymore,
Apparently the bloke who owns it all is selling it cause the council wont let him do it

[dumpycorsa]

Right. Collected the final piece tonight to fit this alternator. The threaded tube for the tie rod ends. Made a few up for future projects.Fitting the alternator tomorrow then can hopefully get the engine on it's mounts.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/007-7.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/005-6.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/006-6.jpg

Also dropped a spare coscast xe off to a local engine shop called JRE engineering. He makes some seriously quick xe's and is a great source for info on how to get more power. Whilst chatting I spotted this little gem on the shelf.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/003-6.jpg

I'm sure most of you will know what it is. It's a Swindon race engine. Worth a small fortune I'd imagine???

[dumpycorsa]

Right the alternator is sorted:) .

What I've used -

A Nissan sunny alternator A575
2x aluminiun spacers (one 14.5 mm and one 10mm).
2x M8 allen cap head bolts (30mm long)with washers.
2 1/2 inch long tapped bar with M8 left hand thread one side and M8 right hand thread one the other.
2x male M8 Tie rods (with spherical bearings) one left hand thread and one right.
1x slim M8 nut. Used to lock the tie rod.
1x 4 groove alternator belt 843mm long.
SBD's 110mm 4v alloy bottom pulley.
Late type xe alternator bracket(from the engine with the multi V alternator).

The result -

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/001-7.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/002-6.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/003-7.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/004-5.jpg

[dumpycorsa]

Small change of plans on the engine.

It is now going to be bored out to 87mm and fitted with Omega high compression pistons and SBD forged rods. Got a good deal on a set and I think it's something that all good, strong and reliable engines are based on. Something that I have always wanted this to be.


The reasons I have decided to say balls to it and bite the bullet are for the following -
Piston to valve clearance was a big issue with the standard pocketted pistons. Basically Ill be at the limit of what cams I could run meaning whatever power it made (estimated to be 210 - 215 bhp) would be all I'd get without doing the bottom end. Now 250 - 260 isn't out of reach depending on fueling.Once the engine was run the head would need a skim when removed.If the valves hit when started then thats £1000 worth of cylinder head dead!!
I'm after a reliable engine not one that could pop at anytime. To build a reliable AND powerful engine costs money. Standard rods aren't brilliant and pistons are only good to the 200bhp mark.Both major components are only tested and rated to standard power. Chucking lots of extra horses at them and expecting them to last isn't a risk I'm prepared to take (when considering the time and effort already gone into this build). This now gives me the confidence to push the limits of the engine and not worry about the bottom end. Although it had ARP bolts already rods do let go causing massive amounts of damage.
Obviously with the bore being nearer a 2.1 Ltr engine this will in itself give extra power and the compression ratio now brought up from 10:1 to 12.5:1 will make a massive difference.
It's also alot easier to do this now before it goes into the car.
So, hows this affected the budget? Well, lets just say the rods were £640 plus VAT and the Omega pistons were £406.40 plus VAT new. Plus bore and hone and balance etc. Lets just say though that I was made an offer I couldnt refuse by John Reed :D

[dumpycorsa]

Right. I collected my pistons and rods last night from John Reed. I'm very pleased with the condition. Obviously they're used but haven't seen a great deal of action (less than a season of rallying). The rings are steel which are far superior to older grey cast iron ones. The valve cut outs in the piston are big enough to give clearance for 1mm oversize valves.The SBD Arrow rods came with ARP 2000 rod bolts too. I've got to order some ACL big end and main bearings by the end of the week. Many people recommended these bearings. The big end bearings are marked with upper and lower. This is because the top bearing is hardened due to being subjected to higher forces. They are more than the average but like most things you get what you pay for. Whilst I was at John's workshop I picked up a Cometic head gasket suitable for upto 88mm bores.
The engine will hopefully be stripped down tonight, back to a bare block ready for boring. 87mm on the dot hopefully. Got varying prices for this but a friend with a contact at a engine machine shop has offered to do it for £40. Some places quoted upto £150 + VAT!!!! Anyway, plan is to have the pistons and rods fitted in the block by the weekend. Whilst the crank is out I'll be getting it balanced along with my fly wheel and clutch plate.

The pistons and rods -

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/003-8.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/004-6.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/005-7.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/006-7.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/007-8.jpg

and the Cometic (multi shim) head gasket -

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/008-6.jpg

[nova ian]

New plans sound good, going to be a near bullet proof bottom end :thumb:

Pistons and rods look good :thumb:

[Plug]

Goin to be one powerful xe. Rather do the work now other wise you would only wish you had done it when you put it in.

[dumpycorsa]

Rather do the work now other wise you would only wish you had done it when you put it in.

Thats what I was thinking. The only things I want to change after the engine goes in are the cams. I'll stick with the 288 hydraulic cams for a while until I've paid my over draft off.:roll:

Then I'll be looking into solid lifters and some new cams. Not sure which yet though...any suggestions people???

[dumpycorsa]

It feels like I've gone back to page one. I spent a few hours down the garage last night and stripped the engine back to a bare block. Just the oil pump, crank, rods and pistons left to remove. All being well I'll finish this off tonight so that it's ready to go into the machine shop first thing Thursday morning. I'd like to have it back by friday (dont want them to rush it) so I can bolt everything back on with new seals and gaskets on saturday.I need to also check the clearances between piston crown and the combustion camber.With the high compression pistons the tops will stick out above the top of the block when at TDC Theres a little V shaped lip on either side in between the inlet and exhaust valves which sometimes hit.
Here -


http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/P1010154-1.jpg


All depends on how much the head has been skimmed,how much material was removed when Autosprint did the head, how far the pistons protrude from the bores and how thick the head gasket is. I hope it'll clear but it'll be just my luck that it doesn't :roll:

Heres how I left the engine -

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/001-8.jpg


Getting this built, fitted, mapped, and run in by Combe (April 25th) is the plan:tumble:

[dumpycorsa]

Crank is now all balanced along with the fly wheel,clutch plate cover and pulleys. The crank was placed in two V shaped blocks with nylon location pads. A drive belt is then fitted to one of the middle journels. This is then tensioned using the motor which is clamped to the front of the fixture. A magnetic prop is then located to the end of the crank so the machine knows the RPM. The V blocks have sensors fitted to them which sense the amount of wobble whist the crank is rotating. Each test spins the crank upto 600RPM which equates to the engine doing 7000RPM( I haven't worked out how yet but that is what I was told).If anyone knows how that works I wouldn't mind knowing :wtf:
He started off with just the crank and was lost for words once the first balance results came up. So much so that he decided to check it again straight away as he stated "it couldn't possibly be right"! Well it was, my rusty old crank was the best standard production crank he could remember testing :D (vauxhall got something right). There's a tolerance on balancing, under 4 grams is acceptable on a road car and under 2 grams with a race car. My crank untouched straight from the car was within a gram at both ends lol He told me he tested a morris crank earlier in the week. It was so far out he was worried it would fly out of the V blocks when he started the test.
These were the results from just the crank - All pics are to my usual SH1TE quality :D
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/004-7.jpg

Unfortunately it wasn't that simple. By the time we put the fly wheel on and then the clutch plate cover it went upto 15 grams out :roll: . Moving the clutch cover round until we got the best results he then set about drilling holes in it. Once that end was done he fitted the crank pulleys. This threw it out again so more holes were drilled in the heavy spots on that end. It's very much like a wheel balancer except it tells you where the heavy spot is and by how much and how big/deep the hole needs to be to remove that much material. It is very sensitive though. Running the same part without any alterations can give 3 slightly different results.
Here it is in action -

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/002-7.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/003-9.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/005-8.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/009-5.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/006-8.jpg


He did burst my bubble a little though as he told me I had the wrong type of crank :( . The best cranks are the really early ones (like the ones found in the engine I've just sold :roll: )They are alot lighter and made from a far stronger material. The crank I have in my engine were developed for the LET engine. The early cranks are very sort after and can handle loads of RPM when balanced. Still never mind, least my engine had the forged Mahle pistons fitted :D .
Here's the early type crank -

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/007-9.jpg

[dumpycorsa]

A small update. I was hoping to be able to build the engine back up this weekend but I'm still waiting for it to be bored out :tumble: .

I have now collected my new big end and main bearing shells though. I've gone with the same bearings that John Reed uses in his engines (well proven and tested to the limits). I've collected some ACL Duraglide 780 heavy duty bearings.Buying decent components now will hopefully reduce the chances of failures later.

[nova ian]

Good stuff, glad its still coming together. Picking my balanced bottom end up tomorrow morning:D

Have you had the rods and pistons balanced too?

[dumpycorsa]

Good stuff, glad its still coming together. Picking my balanced bottom end up tomorrow morning:D

Have you had the rods and pistons balanced too?

The rods and pistons are balanced when they're made.Just need to do everything that runs on the crank. Will make a big difference if your running solid mounts.

Are you taking a similar route with your xe?Head,cams,pistons,rods and better fueling?

[nova ian]

The rods and pistons are balanced when they're made.Just need to do everything that runs on the crank. Will make a big difference if your running solid mounts.

Are you taking a similar route with your xe?Head,cams,pistons,rods and better fueling?

Not doing anything spectacular just yet as my budget won't allow. I just decided that while I am at the point of everything being stripped I'd have the bottom end balanced and fitted with ARP's in prep for any head mods in the future without the cank having to come out again.

My spec to begin with will just be balanced bottom end, lightened flywheel, R1 carbs with the head and manifold matched. Eventually I will add cams and a better exhaust manifold etc... But think this should be a good starting point and make good power for what I've spent (I hope lol )

My project's here if you want a nosey :thumb:
http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69036

Cheers
Ian

[nova ian]

Double post sorry...

[shanemc]

lovely build,good to see no shortcuts and great attention to detail.
well done

[dumpycorsa]

lovely build,good to see no shortcuts and great attention to detail.
well done

I'll be perfectly honest with you this is the first major engine build I have taken on. I've tweeked things before but nothing to this degree. I'm building this engine using advice and knowledge of experienced engine builders. I'm learning things all the time. I hope I'm not taking any short cuts???

I want this to be reliable which comes at a cost. I didn't know just how much though:eek:

Comments and suggestions taken on board:thumb:

Nova Ian - great build there chap. I have another 3 door merit which I hope to turn into a track slag. Cage, fibre glass panels, light stripped shell etc etc.. I had a fully caged stripped E30 325 sport before this which I used on the road.I found the completely stripped out interior ok to start with but missed having tunes etc. I want this build to be a sleeper so trying to keep the standard look for stealth purposeslol

[SRlewis]

i think you should keep the 1dave power engine in it lol

[dumpycorsa]

i think you should keep the 1dave power engine in it lol

Thanks Lewislol . Would be easier to fit.

Any sign of my block yet from the engine shop?

[dumpycorsa]

Small update. I received my rose jointed front tie bar mounts the other day. Predictably they were in a bit of a state and needed a refurb. I decided to take them into work with me and strip them down. Lucky I did as the rose joints were packed to fit the bearing housing with insulation tape :roll: . Anyway, I cleaned all the threads out and cleaned all the components. The arms and brackets were painted badly with brown Hamerite!!! This couldn't stay so I decided to place the arms and brackets in the acid dip tank. I'm pleased with how good they've come out. Much better than blasting them as theres no grit to worry about to get into the threads etc. Just need to prime them and paint them today. I'm also ordering new bearings and need to get spacers for either side of the rose joint so they locate on the arms in the correct place.They were missing along with a few other bits. Joys of buying second hand.
The acid dip tanks -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/032-1.jpg
I used an Ardrox dip which was heated to 80deg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/033.jpg

The brackets after spending an hour in the acid
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/034.jpg
Pressure wash the acid off-
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/035.jpg

Then place in boiling water for a few seconds to ensure all the acid has been removed -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/036.jpg

Job done all ready degreased and ready for paint -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/037.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/038.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/039.jpg
Brackets all built back up.


http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/041.jpg
Not sure what colour to spray them. Probably Matt black. :thumb:

[dumpycorsa]

A few more steps have been taken to getting the car finished.
Firstly I've now painted my rose jointed tie bars and brackets.
In primer -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/041-1.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/042.jpg
Decided to finish them in red -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/043.jpg

Found some issues with these which weren't mentioned when sold so I've been trying to sort some kind of refund with the seller. Basically the bearings have had it (something I asked him about but he failed to answer) but they're not cheap. By the time I replace them the brackets will owe me more than they are new!! I'll be ordering some new ones when I receive a partial refund. The brackets are fitted with spherical bearings with ptfe self lubricating liners. Not cheap though but once done will result in a suspension joint with no play.The next step up from poly bushes.

[dumpycorsa]

Received my Mocal oil cooler sandwich plate yesterday along with my engine assembly lubricant. Also pics of my ACL heavy duty big end and main bearing shells -

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/001-10.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/027-1.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/002-8.jpg
ACL bearings compared to standard GM mains -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/019-2.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/020-2.jpg
They have an extra hole in them. The only reason I can think of for this is because sometimes people modify the oil ways so theres two holes to feed oil to the crank journals.

[dumpycorsa]

Finally I've got my block back from the machine shop.
The bores,
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/007-10.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/006-9.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/008-9.jpg
Next job was to start cleaning the block up.
Ran a tap down all the threads
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/004-8.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/005-9.jpg

Cleaned the sump gasket face up and removed any old sealant from around the oil pump gasket etc. Then removed the crank caps
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/009-7.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/010-7.jpg
Shells removed -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/012-5.jpg
Shell location recesses cleaned -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/014-5.jpg
Oil ways blown out along with mains bolt threads
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/016-5.jpg

[dumpycorsa]

Once all clean the assembly lube was added and then the shells. Thrust bearings first -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/021-1.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/018-2.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/022-1.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/023-1.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/024-2.jpg
Same then done to the crank caps -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/025-2.jpg
The crank caps are all numbered so there's no way of them getting mixed up.
Took the pulley and fly wheel etc off of the crank the wiped the journels to ensure everything is clean before fitting. Whilst the crank was out I was told that the trigger wheels sometimes crack around the bolt holes at high RPM so I've bonded it with loctite compound glue -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/026-1.jpg
Crank going in -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/028-1.jpg
Spot of oil -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/029-2.jpg
Then the caps -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/030-1.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/031-1.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/032-2.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/033-1.jpg
Then get the book of data for the torque settings on the crank bolts 50nms then 50 degs then 15 degs iirc -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/034-1.jpg
Hopefully have the pistons in tomorrow and find out if they clear the combustion chamber

[Plug]

good to see the engine going back together.

not far off finished now :thumb:

[J40NOV]

The engine looks awesome mate fair play, I do love the red tops when they are done up mint! your sri shell looks exceptional too!

[dumpycorsa]

Thanks chaps ^^^

Pistons are in -
First had to torque the mains down. Used a Torque wrench angle gauge to get the exact angles (50 and 15 degs).
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/001-11.jpg
Next was a case of cleaning the pistons and rods up ready to fit. Also fitted the big ends with assembly lube -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/004-9.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/005-10.jpg
Also cleaned up the ARP 2000 rod bolts -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/003-10.jpg
Job done (the nova loon made a good work bench) -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/006-10.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/002-9.jpg
Next job was to fit the ring compressor on to the piston -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/007-11.jpg
Then cleaned and lubricated the bores with oil. Clamped the ring compressor to the piston ensuring the ring gaps were on opposite sides. Then fed the rod and piston down into the bore -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/008-10.jpg
Once the piston was pushed to the bottom of the bore the block was turned over and the conrod was bolted in. ARP moly lubricant was applied to the threads and under the heads of all the bolts to ensure a sound fit . Torqued to 45Lbs/ft-
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/009-8.jpg

All done :D -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/010-8.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/011-5.jpg

[dumpycorsa]

Few more jobs done on the engine today during the rebuild (part 2)
Cleaned up the 2l 8v bonded sump gasket.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/001-12.jpg
Removing the head complete with the carbs and inlet saves alot of hassle -

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/002-10.jpg

During the week we checked the piston clearance in the combustion chamber. Because the high comp pistons protrude from the top of the block this sometimes causes interference. We checked this by placing plasticine across the top of the piston. We then refitted the head using an old gasket (because it's already squashed down) and turned the engine over one complete rotation. The cam caps are slackend off so the valves are completly closed.Luckily theres clearance so I dont need to modify the head further.
This is how far the pistons protrude from the block at TDC -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/004-10.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/005-11.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/006-11.jpg

How the engine stood by the end of the day.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/003-11.jpg

Whilst my mate had his spray gun out I wet flat back the primer on my plug cover and he gave it a coat of metalic blue to match the leads and vernier pulleys -

In primer
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/007-12.jpg

After a couple of coats of base colour and some clear coat -

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/008-11.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/009-9.jpg

[Graeme]

Iirc the tabs that fold up on the baffle plate catch arps if thats what your running, I cut them off, don't know if there needed

[The Simps]

As Graeme has said you need to bend flat one of the tabs (think its the long one bottom left in your pic iirc) to stop it knocking.

[dumpycorsa]

The baffle plate was already fitted to this engine which had ARP's fitted. I've turned the engine over a few rotations and there doesn't appear to be any contact. I shall look into it today though thanks chaps. If there is any contact then I know where its coming from now:thumb:

Rep added

[dumpycorsa]

It runs!!!!!!


Sorry vid is a bit dark. It started late this eve


http://s223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/?action=view&current=035-1.flv

http://s223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/?action=view&current=034-2.flv

:)

[dumpycorsa]

exhaust manifold fitted then lifted off the engine stand
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/012-6.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/002-11.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/003-12.jpg

Fly wheel on
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/009-10.jpg
box and starter fitted
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/011-6.jpg
Engine was then moved under the car so we could lift it in from underneath
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/013-7.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/015-5.jpg
Tight squeeze
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/016-6.jpg
And finally on its mounts
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/021-2.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/020-3.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/019-3.jpg

[dumpycorsa]

Then this needed to be put together. 2 1/2" Ashley exhaust in kit form!
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/017-5.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/024-3.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/025-3.jpg
Starting with this -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/022-2.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/023-2.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/027-2.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/026-2.jpg
To this -
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/028-2.jpg
Then started to fit the engine ancilarieshttp://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/030-2.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/031-2.jpg
Fuel pump fitted up right in the boot with copper fuel lines.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/032-3.jpg
And how we left the car tonight.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd90/dumpydave/033-2.jpg

[shanemc]

installation looks great and sounds even better.great work

[The Simps]

cool - nice project.

what ecu you tunning the carbs on?

[dumpycorsa]

It's a weber alpha kit. Piece of piss to wire in just an ignition live and a earth. Only down side I would say is there isn't many dealers that can map it unlike mbe etc also the ecu doesn't use a knock sensor.

I'll try and get a better video today maybe even a road test on trade plates;)

[Jay]

Looks good mate. Like the spark blug cover.

[7ova]

you've done a great job on the engine :thumb:
top project

+ rep

[dumpycorsa]

Cheers for positive comments people.

The car is running well and all the wiring is sorted. Only big ball ache I have now is finding all the gears. When the car was originally converted (badly). The engine sat on the piss because they used the wrong o/s front mount and they didn't space the gearbox. Only downside now is I cant get reverse and 2nd and 4th hardly engage. I've turned the bush around on the gear selector only to find it now hits the steering rack:confused: . Turned this bush back to its original position. Ive also tried sliding the linkage further down the gear stick shaft but still no joy. I'm certain its a nova linkage and its been joined to an f20 because the bar that slides into the selector box on top of the gearbox has been cut and welded (by original converters). Not sure if they've used something different. Basically 1st is where reverse is and 5th is right up against the side of the transmission tunnel. Its doing my head in...any ideas???


This is the same box that was in it before this engine swap and the same linkage. The lug on the side of the gear lever has been ground off. I've done searches but they seem to suggest all the things I've tried:(

[Sloth]

id go for a new nova rear mount and linkage mate, it sounds bodged, and spirit level the lump, to check straightness.

[dumpycorsa]

id go for a new nova rear mount and linkage mate, it sounds bodged, and spirit level the lump, to check straightness.

It's looking like I'll have to use bits off my other trusty nova. I'm thinking now they may have cut, lengthened and welded the shaft that goes into the selector box on top of the gearbox. This may be why when I turned the bush round it hit the rack? Maybe they did this because they didn't know about the bush trick???mmm I'll have to measure the standard shaft length and see the difference I think.:roll:


Good job the first road test was very pleasing...

[dumpycorsa]

Well. I have now removed the standard gear linkage off my spare nova. The shaft that connects to the bush that you turn around is alot shorter on a standard linkage than on the one fitted to my sri. I'm fairly confident that when I swap these linkages over and a bit of fettling I'll sort the issues.

Well least I had a go in it just to remind me what a nova xe is like. Basically it was raining so I put the standard road tyres back on. My mate drove (as he has trade plates)and taking it easy just to see how it felt. Confident everything was tight and theres no funny noises he opened the taps a little but said it wasn't full throttle... 1st gear was taken gently then in 2nd it span straight up then through 3rd (still spinning) then span in 4th. It gripped and nearly threw the car into the hedge. Pulled hard right with massive amounts of torque steer. It was a scary moment to say the least. http://209.85.12.227/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif Bearing in mind its fitted with an LSD and the fact that the jets are just "get you going jets" and the ecu map is for a stock xe it went VERY well. It needs all the wheel alignment doing and corner weights set to help with the torque steer. Even so though this will definately take some getting used to..... http://209.85.12.227/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif