View Full Version : Engine missing/cutting out/not starting etc???
I thought I'd start up a thread to give out advice for all those experiencing winter running probs.
Please add your top tips - hopefully this will supply some good info which should come in handy at this time of the year.
Cheers :D
If you have a K&N bolt on air filter and you plan to do a long journey, replace it with your standard air filter as your carb will freeze and cause the engine to die.
I learned this the hard way and ended up signing up with the AA to get myself home.
Jim
Bad starter but was OK in summer?
Always check your battery first. You can buy testers to show if they are supplying full charge. A battery thats not fully fit wont be up to the job when it gets tough on cold damp mornings and quite likely won't turn the engine fast enough to get it to fire up properly.
Double check wiring to the starter paying particular attention to earth leads and connectors.
Check your plugs - carefully clean them up and get them dried right out overnight by putting them on a radiator etc. If this helps the starting it will probably be worth replacing them soon
Leads and dizzy cap - clean and dry them right out as well. Once back on spray some WD40 on. If you haven't changed them for a couple of years it maybe time for some new ones and check the inside of the dizzy that the carbon electrodes aren't worn away to fcuk.
Rick Draper
15-10-02, 05:49 PM
lol, found out yesterday that my plug leads, dizzy cap and roter arm are fucked so i have ordered some new origional ones for on it, ?120+vat for the leads, ?58+vat for the dizzy cap and ?18+vat for the roter arm! lol
I almost died when i got the prices but they are for genuine vauxhall parts as i was told that the alternatives are not that good. Rick
Might sound a bit puffy, but vaseline is brilliant for keeping electrical connections free from water ingress. stick to wd40 for ecu connections.
Old truckers trick next, if you have crawled home on a winters night in heavy traffic, sit on your drive with the lights, heater, demister wipers, radio (seriously) turned off and let the engine run for a few minutes. it gives the battery a bit of a boost.
Don't use blue screenwash if you have a white car, i've seen it stain paint.
Antifreeze is cheap do it annually.
Cheers
If cleaning/replacing any of the above doesnt solve your starting/running problems consider your coil or coil and ignition amplifier on injection models. I had bad starting problems on cold damp mornings, which is basically everyday in england, replaced all of the above with no sucess. I also replaced both the coil with no joy, so i fitted the old one back. Then i replaced the amplifer with no joy. In the end it turned out both parts were knackered and both needed replacing. Cost ?50 for coil and amplifer from motor spares shop. Quite cheap really and it solved all my starting probs! ;)
if you have one - use yer garage! (obvious really).
If yer folks have one - use their garage - (they will prob have amore modern car which can cope with the cold better)
If yor have a K&N and no longer have yer standard dust bin lid filter, get a hot air kit or make one -
To make one simply get some heater ducting (that flexy metal hose that you normally get from yer manifold to the old air box) and run a length from the manifold hole (where it used to live) to the frontof the K&N and fasten in place with a bracket. Cut a small slit in the top of the hose to make a flap so that when travelling, air will push the heated air along causing a warm draft. For maximum protection, attach 2 extra flexy hoses onto the main hose to make 2 branches and do the same but at the sides of the filter. The ducting isnt expensive (about ?5 for a long length) and you'll need 4 1/2" diameter is I recall.
It works for me and I live in Scotland!
:wink:
Also make sure you carry spare stuff like bulbs, windscreen fluid and if going on long journeys take a fully charged mobile, blanket, spade, tow rope, chocolate and cans of pepsi (coke is not sweet enough!) - just incase you get stranded.
If the weather is that bad - dont go - instead stay in, phone in sick and watch telly!
:D
remmember not to let your car sit and warm up on first start, it does more damage than driving straight off the engine is designed to run so dont be tempted to leave it for a few mins to let it warm up!, in the past ive also used a bit of cardboard infront of my rad as i found my old sr use to run cold! do not block much of the rad tho! or ull be over heating! :oops:
also dont 4get ur self never knell on direct concreate ie use wood or foam as you can damage ur knees, but the wats the best thing in winter? u just have to twat ur self with a hammer even better in the winter coz it hurts twice as much :cry:
snapper
19-10-02, 02:47 PM
i remember what it was like about this time last year. on my way to work at about 7 in the morning, me car would cut out every time i stopped so i learnt to keep blipping the gas and it would eventually keep alive!
ooh, make sure your windscreen is free of ice and crap before you drive off. it's not good moving away with a little letterbox hole to see out of :o
and if you've got cracks in your windscreen, get it repaired or get a new one!
if you see gritters out the night before or hear on the weather poss front - shove some cardboard over yer windscreen or an old sheet - just make sure if using a sheet that its under the windscreen wipers and fold it into the door/A frame area to hold it in place - this will stop the ice forming on it altogether.
Make sure you carry de-icer.
Make sure you have a cassette box spare - acts as an excellent scraper if you lose yer ice scraper (as I always do)
If driving 1st thing in the morning, take it easy - all too easy to slide/skid on ice
Take an advanced driving course to learn how to control yer car in a skid and like in the wet - break much sooner.
And last but not least - let some air out of yer tyres if driving in snow/ice - not too much but enough to increase the rubber on the road - they wont go soft cos the cold will keep them firm and it will help grip - check yer tread whilst yer there - police are bas-turds at that time of year.
carltoncrazy
19-10-02, 05:41 PM
simple but get ya car service b4 winter
Don't drive your car when the gritters have just been out or if the road is slushy. This will do more damage to your bodywork than you can imagine.
Also, if you're rear drums seize (like mine do), use some WD40 and gently tap the drums. I waited an hour for the AA to come out and do exactly this...do'h!
Jim
Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If the AA man used wd40 on my brakes, I'd shove a crowbar up his bracket. was he from Alcoholics Anonymous???
If you really want to clear your screens quick, get a jug of luke warm water. get it from the tap, and not from the kettle, it won't crack the screen. this works better if you immediately turn on the wipers to clear the water before it refreezes.
Many of you are probably quite sceptical, but think about this...
If your screen is at -5 celsius, and you add water at 10 celsius, that is a 15 degree difference...if your screen is at -5 celsius and you get your car warm enough and turn the heater on full blast, that is about 30 degrees celsius, a difference of 35 degrees....
I have done this trick for about 15 years, I used to drive a scania 143, and if you deiced that you would need 3 cans per day, I use JCB diggers and they have even more glass.
The best bit about it is that it is almost free (water rates/ heating)
Keep the faith
Mowgli
Mowgli...read my post...
I too was dubious when he got the WD40 out, but he gently sprayed the outer casing of my rear drums, not my calipers, or discs. I'm assuming the the WD40 was used to help break down the amount of salt and other gunk that had accumalated on my Rear drums the previous evening.
They still work, so I'll give the AA man the benfit of my doubt.
Jim
*************************
Antifreeze is cheap do it annually.
****************************
i hope he spelt that right :s
but yes i do agree, at least make sure you are runing 30% coolant mixture, if not you run the risk of it freezing and fucking up your engine. also the coolant stops your engine/radiator from rusting, and makes your heating matrix last much longer.
I have a tip for people who find they have ice in there carb!!
spray it with de-icer, it WILL melt and simple go through your engine without cuasing any problems!!
THIS IS A QUICK FIX AND NOT RECOEMNDED UNLESS YOU FIND YOURSELF STRANDED!!!
Another tip is to prevent a problem before it happens, make sure yout get some sealing spray on your leads etc. dont keep putting if off until you have a problem, or you will regret the wait!
Check all the following before the winter turns proper cold.
Antifreeze level in your coolant.
Tyre pressure, tread depth and tracking
leads, dizzy and plugs
Wiper blades
heater matrix, flush this through with the hosepipe if you have to, I did.
All your lights
Corrosion on the battery terminals
Use vasaline and wd40 (as above)
clean earth strap to engine as this is a good way to get a good current flow to the starter.
silicone spray on the door seals, helps stop them freezing shut.
TOP TIP TO PROTECT YER DIZZY CAP!
A m8 told me this and it sounds exactly what I need at the moment!
Take an empty 2ltr bottle (the big ones coke comes in) - one of them ones with the rounded top, cut it about 10" from the top in half, then cut the neck off so you have what some would say could be used as a plunger to inhale illegal substances from a "bucket" (not that I would know :twisted: )
Thread yer ht leeds through the neck end, fit them onto the dizzy (correctly) then slide the bottle over the dizzy!
DA DA!
Instant moisture shield - stops water spray coming up from yer tyres, sitting on the cap etc...
Also for extra protection, smear leads and necks in vaseline
Ade
carltoncrazy
05-11-02, 08:54 PM
ok this my sound stupid,but its a good idea,ive been doing it,
cant afford to replace your battery?then park at the top of a hill near you and if ya battery dead,then let the hand brake off and bump start.
Ste_Nova
10-11-02, 12:32 PM
yup halfords sealing spray is ace... i had loads of cutting out probs in the wet.... fitted new cap and arm... sealed everything.... now the only prob i have is water coming in through the door seals when driving through 2foot deep floods :lol:
Some of you might like sitting with your engines runing to keep the car warm, but only on tickover.
DONT DO IT.
when the engine is at idle there is not enough oil pressure to pump the oil around the engine. You will probably get more wear from doing this than caining the engine to death. Also the bores glaze if ur ticking over for a god while which is a bugger.
have you all checked under your front drivers mat to make sure u wont be geting any mushrooms growing early spring :s hehehe
snapper
22-11-02, 10:52 AM
all good tips these!
got a question for you lot though. i was on my way to work the other day and it wasn't really that cold outside and it wasn't raining either. about half way into my journey i lost all power and the engine stalled whenever i dipped the clutch. i pulled over and waited for a bit and then tried starting again and it did after about 5 minutes!
is that the carb jets freezing over? i do need a new airbox (other one is way too bodged :wink: )
ta...
I also have the same problem as Snapper, but it has only happened twice, once yesterday and once the day before! I warmed the car up for 3 mins and then started to drive to work, a mile into the drive and put the car into neutral( to save petrol 'as you do') and the bastard died. I dropped it into 2nd while I was still moving and then it bump started itself. I turned the radio off and listened to the engine it sounded like it was firing on 3 cylinders!?! :| after a while it sorted itself out. Then yesterday the same thing happened but this time the car was firing on 3cylinders for ages :oops: I got home and put some more antifreeze in her, this morning it didnt happen but then it wasnt really that cold!
Also when I'm driving it sounds like you can here water running round the coolant system but it also sounds like there icicles in there too?? :o
Any ideas
EEK!
You dont want ice in yer coolant! the coolant is sposed to stop that! Get it to a garage and get it changed!!! (Ice'll knacker yer engine!)
Mine occasionally misfired (3 cylinders) or died when slowing down - if you have a K&N you need to get warm air to it to stop the jets condensing and ice freezing on them - I find a length of that metal bendy manifold hose run from the manifold to the k&n works well. Prob is K&N & carbs like cold dense air - warm air is not as dense so can affect performance. Too cold and it freezes up enough to mess performance.
courtenaynova
14-12-02, 01:45 PM
I used to get that problem. It sounded like it was firing on 3, and some might say that it sounds like an Impreza...mine did! Well, I found out then that it was overfueling. Simple....so I have it tuned and its now fine.
dave.gsi
21-12-02, 12:46 PM
lol, mine sounded like that this morning cos i didn't have time to warm it up before i left the house. first it stalled, pulled over + started it, had to rev the knackers off it to stop it from dying, sounded like an impreza lol burbling away. the manual choke did nothing even when pulled out all the way...it still died lol had to sit there reving it at 2000rpm for about five minutes before it stopped playing up. then once warm it was fine. i fuck hate winter :twisted:
oh, and there should be some nice mushrooms on there way any day now in the drivers footwell. i'm hoping for magic ones :lol:
nova dosed
25-01-03, 12:15 AM
So its not jusrt me then thank fcuk. Its the price we pay for modding our cars every bloody morning ill get in me car ill have to pump the gass twice wait a cup of secs then start the car other wise it goes all wierd. Then i pull off and it will miss fire for about 2 mins then i hit traffic and by the time i get through it all the miss fire has gone it really is doin my head in but ades suggestion sound logical.
As for my ideas i think they have all been covered just dont cane the car from cold as this can damage stuff i dont go above 3000 rev untill it warms up A. cuz it miss fires and pi**s me off and B it will kill ur engine quicker.
Battery runs flat?
If its over a year old it may need changing - they aint what they used to be I'm afraid tho most can do at least 2 if not been run right down etc. First sign can be failure to start car on the 1st cold morning of the winter.
Battery OK but still runs flat in a day or so?
Either 1. Alternator not charging
or 2. A drain to earth such as badly connected ICE or damaged wiring somewhere. Check recent changes and additions first or any areas that have been chafed or damaged.
Check all your fuses.
How can you tell if the alternator is not charging?
Check your ignition light. Turn on ign. and if no ign. light = usually a break in the ignition circuit wiring - check earth leads and particularly the wiring to the alternator.
If you have ign. light OK but this fails to go off when the engine is started even when revved up then the alternator probably isnt charging.
Check the belt. If it isnt tight enough it will most prob squeal esp when first started and cold. Needs to be fairly tight and in good order. Check haynes manual.
If all seems OK get a multimeter. Turn off engine and connect multimeter across the battery terminals. If the battery is OK it should read 12V or a bit above. Next start the engine and rev it up a bit. Re -test across the battery again. If the alternator is charging it shuld read 13V or a bit more.
If its not charging and all wiring is OK you will either have to take the alternator to an electrical motor factors that can test them or get another one.
A good general health check for you engine is to do a compression test.
The testers aren't expensive and can generally be used on most common types of petrol engine.
Follow the instructions with the tester carefully. Here's what I do.
1. Test a cold engine.
2. Take all plugs out and make sure that all leads are out of the way and safe so you dont endanger yourself. Turn the engine over a bit with the plugs out to clear distortions that may occur when the engine stands and gets cold. Make sure the throttle is fully open
3. Lightly grease the threads of the compression tester adapter and screw it in and out of a plug hole a couple of times to make sure it locates down into the threads properly to give a good air tight seal.
4. Make sure the battery is fully charged and is capable of spining the engine over strongly and evenly as you test all the cylinders.
5. Connect it to cylinder number 1 and put the gauge somewhere where you can see it (or get someone to help).
6. Turn the engine over on the key until the needle on the tester stops rising. Remember to keep the throttle open
7. Note the fig and release the gas. Repeat the test.
8. Check all the other cylinders in turn using the same procedure. Try and be precise and consistent in your procedure to avoid inaccuracies.
If any of the cylinders reads more than a few psi lower than the rest it may indicate a problem. (Note -some engines have " natural variations" This can be due to slight differences in the compression ratio due to production tolerances allowing some piston crowns and conrod lengths to be greater than others. This can be especially so where an engine has been modified and re- built without these tolerances being checked so that "short" pistons are matched to "long" con rods. Con rods can also be bent which will reduce the stroke and with it the compression ratio)
Generally signficantly lower compression figures can be due to a number of things such as damaged piston/rings or poorly seating/ damaged valves. If its 2 cylinders next to each other it often means that the head gasket has blown between the 2. It will prob. be running very badly esp under attempted full power in this case - missing etc
Overall low readings ( usually slow to pickup when started from hot and a blue smoker) probably mean that the bores are worn. Other signs - it may well be splurging a lot of oil out of the breather (usually into the carb if its a std engine) or even doing things like puffing the dipstick up all the time.
Actual compression readings vary from engine to engine and with the tester and procedure. From my own experience, I would say that for average engines of usual CR ratings I reckon on getting around the 180 -200psi mark in a healthy relatively un-worn engine.
You can extend the test further to help ascertain more clearly what the problem maybe. If you can, using a squirt can with a flexible spout, carefully squirt a bit of oil in thru the spark plug holes against the inside of the bore. Allow a bit of time for it drain down onto the rings. Now when you re-run the compression test you may find that the compression figures are a fair bit higher. In this case it indicates that gases have been escaping down thru the rings - ie the bores and rings are worn.
lol, mine sounded like that this morning cos i didn't have time to warm it up before i left the house. first it stalled, pulled over + started it, had to rev the knackers off it to stop it from dying, sounded like an impreza lol burbling away. the manual choke did nothing even when pulled out all the way...it still died lol had to sit there reving it at 2000rpm for about five minutes before it stopped playing up. then once warm it was fine. i fcuk hate winter :twisted:
oh, and there should be some nice mushrooms on there way any day now in the drivers footwell. i'm hoping for magic ones :lol:
yay, aint just mine then. . . .mine sounds like its running on 3 cylinders. ...any one know how to tne the carb?? could it be running too rich?
nova dosed
03-03-03, 07:29 PM
i had the same problem and when i put me webber 32/34 on the missfiring 3 cylinder noise stopped i only get it now when the choke is fully out it runs sweet as a nut now.
The problem maybe the pierburg if u got one on or the automatic choke convert to manual u cant go wrong. Trust me ive done it and its the best thing ive done it
yay! sorted it, the lead just wasnt on correctly! distributor cap plug was a bit dicky! glad it aint nunnit serious.
M_U_T_A_N_T21
25-06-04, 08:49 PM
Don't drive your car when the gritters have just been out or if the road is slushy. This will do more damage to your bodywork than you can imagine.
Also, if you're rear drums seize (like mine do), use some WD40 and gently tap the drums. I waited an hour for the AA to come out and do exactly this...do'h!
Jim
dont spray wd40 on ya drum else you wont have brakes remove the drum and free off the handbrake lever and then cooper grease it to stop it seizing again
M_U_T_A_N_T21
25-06-04, 08:57 PM
if you have trouble getting a seized drum off little tip which works remove the bearing and place the wheel back on with 2 wheel nuts then pull the wheel each side this gives you more leaveridge it will either come off or the clips which hold the shoes on will spring off either way the drums off to repare the problem
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